UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA 
AT  LOS  ANGELES 


r 


SIX     MONTHS 


AMERICA. 


GODFREY  T.  VIGNE,  ESQ. 

OF     LINCOLN'S     INN,     BARRISTER     AT 


PHILADELPHIA: 

PUBLISHED    BY    THOMAS    T.    ASH, 
140    CHESTNUT    STREET. 

1833. 


Preface  to  the  First  American  Edition. 


IT  cannot  escape  observation  that  the  author  of  the 
following  pages  has  been  led,  or  has  fallen  into  some 
errors,  both  of  fact  and  inference.  These  we  have  not 
thought  it  necessary  in  all  cases  to  notice.  Every  candid 
reader  will  pronounce  such  errors  inevitable,  for  from 
what  class  in  any  country  is  perfectly  accurate  infor- 
mation to  be  obtained  ?  And  in  a  new  country  of  such 
extent  as  America,  how  must  this  difficulty  be  increased  ! 
The  book  is  given  unaltered,  and  a  few  notes  added 
where  they  appeared  necessary  to  correct  an  erroneous 
impression. 

Candid  accounts  of  ourselves  are  always  acceptable 
from  intelligent  travellers,  and  in  this  class  we  do  not 
hesitate  to  place  Barrister  Vigne.  Not  a  few,  however, 
will  smile  at  his  allusions  to  the  u  influence  of  a  cowrf," 
r\  K  and  when  he  argues  the  cause  of  the  law  of  primogeniture, 
many  will  think  his  eloquence  thrown  away.  In  politics 
his  views  may  not  always  chime  in  with  the  opinions  of 
0k.  the  reader,  but  taken  altogether,  the  "  Six  Months  in 
^  America,"  may  be  admitted  to  be  of  a  superior  cast, 
when  compared  with  the  mass  of  books  from  the  pens 
of  British  tourists  who  have  visited  us,  and  paid  their 
expenses  by  publishing1  their  crudities  and  abuse. 


18524:0 


St?  awowitw  in 


READER, 

I  WILL  not  inflict  upon  you  the  penalty  of  preface  or 
or  dedication,  being  nilly  persuaded  that  you  would 
care  for  neither ;  and  therefore  if  you  are  disposed  to 
follow  me  to  America,  I  will  inform  you  at  once,  that 
after  having  seen  the  greater  part  of  Europe,  I  went  on 
board  the  packet,  George  Canning,  on  the  24th  of  March, 
1831,  and  sailed  from  Liverpool  for  New  York,  with  my 
note-book,  sketch-book,  gun,  and  fishing  rod — alone,  un- 
bewifed  and  unbevehicled,  as  a  man  ought  to  travel,  and 
with  the  determination  of  being,  as  far  as  an  English- 
man can  be,  unprejudiced  ;  and  of  seeing  all  I  could  of 
the  United  States  in  the  space  of  about  six  months. 

Having  said  this,  I  beg  of  you  to  remember  that  I 
do  not  profess  to  tell  you  what  may  be  seen  in  a  year. 
I  may  be  allowed  to  mention,  that  the  George  Canning 
is  one  of  the  best  of  the  twenty-six  packets  that  sail 
from  Liverpool  to  different  parts  of  North  America. 
Every  possible  comfort  and  every  reasonable  luxury  is 
at  the  command  of  the  passenger ;  and,  whether  he  be 
confined  to  his  state-room  from  the  effects  of  sea-sickness, 
or  indulging  a  most  Atlantic  appetite,  and  quaffing 
champagne  to  the  memory  of  Columbus,  he  cannot  fail 
at  the  end  of  his  voyage  to  be  loud  in  the  praises  of  her 
excellent  commander,  Captain  Allyn.  We  saw  an 
average  number  of  young  whales,  but  contrived  to  miss 
the  icebergs  and  the  sea-serpent ;  and  after  an  excellent 
passage  of  twenty -three  days  (the  voyage  from  Liverpool, 
at  this  season  of  the  year,  being  scarcely  ever  less  than 
thirty,)  we  sailed  through  the  Narrows  into  the  splendid 
bay  of  New  York.  The  passage  so  named  is  about  three 
quarters  of  a  mile  in  width,  and  defended  by  four  or  five 


6  SIX  MONTHS 

hundred  pieces  of  cannon.  The  most  prominent  object 
is  a  diamond-shaped  fort,  which  appears  to  rise  out  of  the 
water,  and  is  called  Fort  La  Fayette,  because  it  fired  its 
first  salute  in  honour  of  that  general,  upon  his  arrival  on 
the  shores  of  America  in  1824.  The  fort  on  the  New 
Jersey  side,  as  if  in  opposition  to  its  French-named  an- 
tagonist, is  known  by  the  very  English  name  of  Fort 
Tomkins. 

On  the  Long  Island  beach  is  seen  New  Utrecht,  a 
small  sea-bathing  place,  and  celebrated  as  the  spot  where 
the  British  troops,  under  the  command  of  Sir  Henry 
Clinton,  were  landed  without  opposition,  previously  to 
their  attack  of  New  York  in  1776.  Numerous  vessels 
of  different  sizes  that  had  been  detained  outside  by  con- 
trary winds,  were  working  their  way  through  the  Nar- 
rows at  the  same  time,  and  presented  a  most  animating 
spectacle.  They  were  from  all  parts  of  the  world  ;  the 
sun  shown  full  upon  their  white  sails  ;  the  broad  bright 
pine-streak  reddened  beneath  his  declining  rays,  and 
added  a  characteristic  elegance  to  the  appearance  of  the 
American  ships,  which  taken  as  a  class,  are  certainly 
handsomer  than  those  of  any  other  nation.  That  the 
trim  and  figure  of  a  British  merchantman  are  usually 
inferior  to  those  of  America,  is  owing  to  the  circum- 
stance of  there  being  no  tonnage-duty  in  America  ;  and 
therefore,  their  ships  are  constructed  for  the  carriage  of 
a  given  number  of  tons  with  the  greatest  speed ;  but  by 
the  British  method  of  rating  their  ships,  a  merchantman 
can  be  constructed  so  as  to  carry  more  than  her  legal 
tonnage  without  paying  for  it ;  of  which  John  Bull  very 
properly  takes  advantage  by  swelling  out  his  ships  as 
much  as  possible,  so  long  as  he  can  avoid  the  liability  of 
being  charged  at  a  higher  rate. 

We  had  scarcely  entered  the  bay  when  the  wind 
dropped ;  steam-boats  were  plying  in  all  directions,  and 
one  of  them  coming  along  side,  I  was  glad  to  avail  my- 
self of  her  assistance,  and  arrived  at  New  York  before 
sunset  Within  two  minutes  after  I  had  landed  I  found 
myself  in  the  Broadway,  the  principal  street  and  pro- 
menade in  the  city.  At  two  o'clock  on  every  fine  day, 
all  the  fashion  and  too-gaily  dressed  beauty  of  New 
York  are  to  be  seen  there.  It  contains  the  finest  shops, 
and  altogether  has  a  very  lively  and  city -like  appearance, 
which,  nevertheless,  suffers  considerably  on  account  of 
the  houses  being  mostly  built  of  red  brick.  Its  width,  I 
should  say,  is  about  the  same  as  that  of  Oxford-street ;  in 


IN  AMERICA.  7 

length  it  is,  or  rather  will  be  when  finished,  about  three 
miles.  The  courts  of  justice  hold  their  sittings  in  the 
city -hall,  a  large  and  handsome  building  of  Massachu- 
setts white  marble  and  brown  free-stone,  which  stands 
in  the  centre  of  what  is  called  the  Park,  a  green  open 
space  on  the  side  of  the  Broadway.  The  prison,  a  gloomy- 
looking  structure,  is  too  conspicuous,  and  exceedingly 
handy,  being  so  near  to  it  that  a  "  ponte  de  'i  sospiri" 
might  be  thrown  across  from  one  to  the  other  with  great 
effect.  But  it  is  not  in  the  contemplation  of  the  most 
refined  and  magnificent  works  of  art,  that  the  European 
traveller  in  the  United  States  must  expect  to  derive  his 
principal  gratification.  The  public  buildings  in  New 
York  for  the  different  purposes  of  charity,  education, 
and  commerce,  are  very  numerous ;  but  there  are  none 
that  can  lay  claim  to  his  particular  attention  ;  in  a  few 
hours,  with  a  little  assistance  from  a  cabriolet  or  an 
omnibus,  he  might  see  all  that  is  worth  his  notice  in  the 
city,  considered  merely  as  a  collection  of  buildings,  con- 
taining 200,000  inhabitants.  It  is  the  extraordinary 
energy  and  urgency  of  commerce  that  will  chiefly  at- 
tract his  attention.  The  wharfs  on  the  North  river  are 
flanked  by  superb  steam-boats,  daily  and  hourly  em- 
ployed in  the  conveyance  of  thousands ;  those  on  the  East 
river,  by  double  and  triple  lines  of  the  most  beautiful 
merchantmen ;  while  the  three  streets  which  run  suc- 
cessively parallel  to  them  might  be  taken  for  one  enor- 
mous warehouse,  the  pavement  being  nearly  blocked  up 
with  merchandise  from  every  country,  and  exhibiting  a 
rattling  and  somewhat  dangerous  confusion  of  carts  and 
cranes,  that  is'  quite  beyond  a  "  private  gentleman's  be- 
lief," till  he  has  seen  it.  Although  the  actual  numerical 
tonnage  of  the  trade  of  New  York  is  four  times  less  than 
that  of  Liverpool,  yet  the  appearance  of  bustle  and  busi- 
ness is  far  more  striking  at  New  York :  the  reason  is, 
that  there  is  so  much  more  retail  trade  carried  on  in  the 
latter  city  than  in  Liverpool,  or  any  other  city  in  the 
world.  Innumerable  boats  descend  the  North  river, 
laden  with  timber,  or  live  and  dead  stock,  and  provisions 
for  the  markets  of  New  York,  and  carry  back  a  petty 
and  varied  cargo  of  wearing  apparel  and  other  necessa- 
ries that  are  wanted  in  the  interior. 

Although  Philadelphia  is  a  larger  place,  the  balance  of 
trade  between  New  York  and  that  city  is  usually,  if  not 
always,  in  favour  of  New  York.  Imported  goods  sold  at 
Philadelphia,  on  account  of  the  New  York  merchants 


SIX  MONTHS 

are  paid  for  in  bills  made  payable  at  Philadelphia.  The 
banks  at  New  York  discount  these  bills,  which  as  they 
become  due  are  satisfied  on  demand  by  payment  of  specie ; 
so  that  there  is  a  constant  flow  of  hard  dollars  from 
Philadelphia  to  New  York. 

In  order  to  see  the  city  in  perfection,  the  North  river 
must  be  crossed,  and  a  fine  view  is  obtained  from  any  of 
the  rising  grounds  on  the  opposite  bank.  But  to  include 
a  distant  view  of  the  city  and  the  bay  in  the  same  draw- 
ing, I  should  recommend  a  station  on  Staten  Island,  or 
on  the  opposite  heights  about  Gowanus.  On  this  head 
the  British  public  will  soon  be  satisfied.  Before  I  quitted 
America,  I  was  favoured  with  a  sight  of  the  most  exact 
and  admirable  drawings  to  be  used  as  materials  for  the 
next  view  at  the  Colosseum  in  the  Regent's  Park,  which 
I  understood  was  to  be  that  of  New  York  and  its  envi- 
rons. It  is  singular  that,  as  in  London,  they  should  all 
have  been  taken  from  the  top  of  St.  Paul's  church. 
Unless  I  were  anxious  to  write  either  an  almanac  or  a 
guide-book,  I  think  I  need  not  here  say  more  about  New 
York ;  reserving  for  another  place  any  remarks  that  ap- 
ply generally  to  one  city  as  well  as  another.  I  will 
merely  add,  that  I  should  strongly  recommend  every  one 
to  visit  the  museum  before  he  commences  a  tour ;  and 
that  the  city  contains  two  excellent  theatres,  of 'which 
that  in  the  Park  is  the  more  fashionable :  I  heard  the 
English  version  of  the  "  Cenerentola"  performed  in 
very  good  stile ;  I  was  delighted  with  the  singing  of  our 
countrywoman,  Mrs.  Austin,  and  I  laughed  heartily  at 
the  drolleries  of  Mr.  Hackett,  who  is  an  unrivalled  mimic 
of  the  eccentricities  of  his  countrymen.  An  Italian 
opera  is  confidently  expected  by  the  next  season.  At 
present  the  first  society  in  New  York,  which  is  very 
good,  is  seldom  to  be  seen  at  the  theatre.  In  my  ignor- 
ance, I  was  very  much  astonished  the  first  evening  I 
went  there,  at  seeing  a  multitude  of  persons,  who  would 
have  thought  it  a  gross  mistake  not  to  have  been  taken 
for  gentlemen,  sitting  occasionally  in  the  front  and  almost 
always  in  the  back  seats  of  the  dress  circle,  with  their 
hats  on,  in  the  presence  of  ladies,  who  were  scattered 
in  different  parts  of  the  same  box. 

Now,  New  York,  if  not  the  most  refined,  is  certainly, 
strictly  speaking,  the  most  fashionable  place  in  the 
Union,  and  it  is  not  to  be  wondered  at,  that  foreigners 
who  have  just  landed  from  Europe  and  who  very  probably 
go  to  the  theatre  on  the  first  evening  of  their  arrival, 


IN  AMERICA.  9 

should  thence  imbibe  strange  and  unjust  ideas  of  the 
best  American  manners.  I  have  heard  that  common 
sense  is  the  characteristic  of  the  Americans ;  and  I 
think  there  is  great  truth  in  the  remark ;  but  I  do  not 
like  it  when  it  is  so  very  common.  These  republican 
De  Courcys  are  very  fond  of  wearing  their  hats  :  I  never 
was  at  church  in  the  United  States,  without  observing 
individuals  (I  do  not  say  many,)  who  would  evidently 
have  been  very  sorry  to  have  been  thought  guilty  of  any 
impropriety,  putting  their  hats  on  when  the  service  was 
over,  in  the  very  body  of  the  church.  These  are  no 
trifles  when  considered  as  part  of  the  national  manners. 
But  in  the  United  States  there  is  no  standard  for  man- 
ners: their  political  independence  is  oftentimes  imper- 
ceptibly identified  with  independence  of  behaviour  that 
procures  for  individuals  an  unfavourable  opinion,  of 
which  the  men  and  their  minds  are  alike  unworthy. 

It  was  the  twenty -third  of  April,  St.  George's  day, 
when  I  left  New  York  to  commence  my  tour  ;  the  mem- 
bers  of  the  St.  George's  Society  were  going  to  dine  to- 
gether, and  the  huge  banner  of  the  saint  was  waving 
from  one  of  the  upper  windows  of  the  city-hotel,  as  I 
emerged  from  the  gloomy  recesses,  in  enormous  estab- 
lishments ycleped  single-bedded  rooms,  and  proceeded  to 
the  wharf  where  the  New  Brunswick  steamers  are  to  be 
found,  and  where  it  is  coolly  and  most  intelligibly  inti- 
mated to  the  traveller,  in  very  large  letters,  that  he  can 
have  "  Transportation  to  Philadelphia,"  at  a  very  trifling 
expense.  These  steam-boats  are  necessarily  very  large  ; 
being  frequently  destined  to  carry  three  or  even  four 
hundred  passengers :  they  are  constructed  in  the  best 
manner  for  obtaining  the  greatest  proportionate  space  and 
a  free  circulation  of  air.  They  may  fairly  be  said  to  be 
three-deckers.  The  working-beam  is  usually  placed  at 
a  great  height  above  the  upper-deck,  and  the  whole  of 
the  engine  is  so  much  raised  that  no  inconvenience 
arises  from  the  heat  of  the  boilers.  When  one  of  these 
steamers  is  seen  approaching  from  a  distance,  the  con- 
fusion of  green  and  white  galleries  gives  it  very  much 
the  appearance  of  a  moving  summer-house.  The  rapidity 
with  which  we  moved  across  the  bay  procured  me  a 
constant  change  of  scene ;  the  banks  were  dotted  with 
small  villages,  but  I  observed  but  few  gentlemen's  seats. 
At  a  distance,  on  the  right,  stands  the  town  of  Newark, 
a  considerable  place,  discernible  by  its  white  steeples. 
We  passed  Perth  Amboy  at  the  mouth  of  the  Rariton 


10  SIX  MONTHS 

river  ;  the  first  British  settlement  in  New  Jersey.  The 
governor's  house,  the  picquet  and  guard-house,  can  be 
seen  from  the  river.  The  governor's  house  resembles  a 
Gloucestershire  spinning  mill.  I  was  landed  at  New 
Brunswick,  where  I  found  conveyances  awaiting  the  ar- 
rival of  the  stoamer  in  order  to  carry  its  passengers  across 
the  country  to  Bordentown.  Notwithstanding  that  this 
road  is  one  of  the  principal  thoroughfares  between  New 
York  and  Philadelphia,  yet  I  was  fairly  and  quickly 
jolted  into  the  conviction  that  although  it  was  probable  I 
should  travel  over  many  that  were  as  bad,  yet  that  I  could 
not  by  any  possibility  find  one  that  was  worse.  Allow- 
ances are  to  be  made  for  the  roads  I  afterwards  saw,  in 
the  back  settlements ;  but  the  condition  of  this  one  was 
really  disgraceful.  There  was  a  great  deal  of  wood  on 
every  side ;  but  it  can  hardly  be  called  a  forest,  being 
what  is  here  termed  second  growth  wood.  A  great  part 
of  these  lands  had  been  cleared  by  the  earlier  settlers, 
but  were  allowed  to  remain  uncultivated,  and  to  be  over- 
grown whenever  a  soil  of  greater  fertility  and  sufficiently 
protected,  was  discovered  in  the  interior  of  the  country. 

Bordentown,  is  a  small,  but  neat  and  pretty  village, 
on  the  banks  of  the  Delaware.  On  the  outskirts  is  a 
large  and  rather  irregular  brick  building  at  the  extremity 
of  a  court-yard,  which  is  flanked  by  stabling  and  other 
outhouses,  with  extensive  gardens  and  pleasure  grounds 
behind  them,  laid  out  a  1' Anglais.  This  is  the  residence 
of  the  Count  Surviliers,  better  known,  in  England  at 
least,  as  Joseph  Bonaparte.  I  was  provided  with  an  in- 
troduction to  his  excellency,  and  paid  him  a  morning 
visit.  His  reception  of  me  was  exceedingly  courteous. 
The  instant  he  appeared,  I  was  most  forcibly  struck 
with  the  very  strong  resemblance  he  bore  to  the  later 
portraits  of  Napoleon.  His  person,  I  should  say,  was 
rather  larger ;  the  expression  of  the  eye  was  the  same, 
though  more  subdued  ;  the  same  hair,  the  same  shaped 
head,  and  the  same  contour  of  feature  generally,  with  a 
darker  complexion,  and  a  good  set  of  teeth.  I  should 
say,  the  principal  difference  was  observable  in  the  mouth, 
which  seemed  more  inclinable  to  the  jocose  than  the 
sanguinary.  After  some  conversation,  which  was  car- 
ried on  in  French,  and  turned  chiefly  on  the  subject  of 
European  travel,  his  excellency  showed  me  his  pictures, 
which  are  numerous  and  interesting.  He  has  several 
fine  Murillos,  and  a  most  beautiful  Madona  by  Vandyke. 
He  has  many  portraits  of  his  own  family  ;  among  these 
is  one  of  Napoleon  in  his  coronation  robes,  and  the  well- 


IN  AMEKICA.  1  1 

known  picture  of  the  First  Consul  on  horseback,  crossing 
the  Alps.  I  felt  an  emotion,  which  I  will  not  attempt  to 
describe,  when,  as  we  passed  round  the  room,  he  paused 
before  the  latter  picture,  and  drew  my  attention  to  it, 
remarking  that  it  was  the  original  by  David.  The 
cabinet  of  statutes  and  mosaics  is  also  very  fine,  and  the 
collection  altogether  by  far  the  best  in  America.  His 
excellency  occasionally  mixes  in  society  both  at  New 
York  and  Philadelphia,  and  talks  without  reserve  of  his 
former  situation.  "  Quand  j'  estais  roi  d'  Espagne," 
"  Dans  mes  belles  affaires,"  are  occasionally  introduced 
in  his  conversation.  By  his  advice  I  subsequently 
mounted  the  observatory  in  his  grounds.  Thence  I  en- 
joyed a  very  fine  view  of  the  country  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  Delaware,  whose  broad  and  tranquil  stream 
was  flowing  beneath  me ;  on  the  left,  the  river  seemed  to 
lose  itself  among  the  distant  woods  of  Pennsylvania ;  on 
the  right,  at  a  distance  of  about  six  miles,  is  Trenton, 
made  notorious  by  the  daring  passage  of  the  Delaware, 
and  the  subsequent  defeat  and  capture,  of  a  body  of  Hes- 
sians, by  General  Washington,  on  the  night  of  the  25th 
of  December,  1776,  during  a  violent  storm,  and  when 
the  danger  of  the  revolutionists  was  at  its  crisis. 

Bordentown  is  about  twenty-six  miles  from  Philadel- 
phia. The  next  day  I  proceeded  to  that  city  in  a  steam- 
boat, which  stopped  for  passengers  at  every  considerable 
village  on  the  well-wooded,  but  flat  and  uninteresting 
banks  of  the  river.  At  length  Philadelphia  makes  its 
appearance,  stretching  for  nearly  three  miles  along  the 
western  side  of  a  bend  or  angle  of  the  river.  This  view 
is  certainly  a  fine  one,  but  it  would  be  much  improved 
by  the  appearance  of  a  few  more  steeples  or  lofty  struc- 
tures. From  the  water  two  or  three  only  are  visible 
above  this  immense  assemblage  of  red  houses  ;  and  yet 
the  city  contains  nine  episcopal  churches,  a  great  num- 
ber of  public  buildings,  and  charitable  institutions  with- 
out end. 

Great  attention  is  paid  to  the  education  of  the  poorer 
classes :  the  constitution  of  Pennsylvania  declaring, 
"  That  the  legislature  shall,  as  soon  as  convenient,  pro- 
vide by  law  for  the  establishment  of  schools,  in  sucli 
manner  that  the  poor  may  be  educated  without  expense." 

Philadelphia  has  been  often  described.  The  streets 
cross  each  other  at  right  angles  :  those  running  parallel 
with  the  river  are  numbered,  second,  third,  fourth,  &c. ; 
the  others  usually  bear  the  name  cf  some  fruit  or  tree. 


12  SIX   MONTHS 

The  word  street  is  usually  omitted :  in  describing  the 
way,  a  person  would  tell  you  that  the  place  you  were 
looking  for  was  in  Walnut,  below  fifth ;  Sassafras,  above 
second ;  Mulberry,  between  seventh  and  eighth,  &.c. 
These  streets  run  over  a  distance  of  two  miles,  from  the 
Delaware  to  the  Schuylkill  river,  which  enters  the  Dela- 
ware about  seven  miles  to  the  south  of  Philadelphia. 
The  Bank  of  Pennsylvania  is  a  small  building,  but  ele- 
gantly designed  from  the  Temple  of  the  Muses,  on  the 
Illyssus,  near  Athens. 

The  new  Mint  of  the  United  States  was  unfinished, 
but  promised  to  be  a  chaste  and  beautiful  building,  on  a 
larger  scale  from  the  same  model.  On  the  4th  of  July, 
1776,  the  Declaration  of  Independence  was  signed,  and 
afterwards  read  from  the  steps  of  the  State-house,  where 
the  state  courts  of  justice  are  now  held.  The  room  in 
which  this  took  place  had  been  fitted  up  for  La  Fayette 
in  1824,  as  the  most  appropriate  place  for  levee  tenure ; 
but  when  I  saw  it,  it  was  occupied  by  workmen,  who 
had  instructions  to  replace  every  thing  as  it  was  when 
it  acquired  its  present  reputation. 

The  Academy  of  Fine  Arts  much  exceeded  my  ex- 
pectations. Although  the  most  conspicuous  pictures 
were  those  of  American  academicians,  yet  here  and 
there  the  eye  was  attracted  by  a  Vandyke,  a  Rubens,  a 
Guereino,  and  a  Salvator  Rosa,  or  some  good  copies 
from  them.  There  were  a  few  landscapes  by  Ruysdael, 
and  a  fine  Murillo :  the  subject  was  the  Roman  daugh- 
ter. The  productions  from  the  English  school,  were 
portraits  of  John  H.  Powell,  Esq.  by  Sir  Thomas  Law- 
rence, of  John  Kemble,  by  Sir  M.  A.  Shee,  and  another 
of  Dugald  Stuart,  by  Sir  H.  Raeburn.  Any  person  con- 
versant with  the  pictures  of  this  latter  artist,  would  have 
recognised  this,  by  the  usual  green  colouring  in  the 
back-ground.  There  were  five  admirable  portraits  by 
Mr.  Stewart,  the  American  artist,  of  the  Presidents, 
Washington,  Adams,  Jefferson,  Madison,  and  Monroe. 
The  best  full-length  portrait  of  Washington  is  that  in 
the  Fauneuil  Hall  at  Boston ;  but  as  a  half-length  this  is, 
I  believe,  considered  the  original.  They  were  all  re- 
markable for  their  easy  and  unsophisticated  attitudes. 
Mr.  Stewart  has  been  dead  about  five  years.  Mr.  Har- 
dinge  has  also  very  great  merit  as  a  portrait  painter  ; 
but  Mr.  Sully  has  the  reputation  of  being  the  first  in 
America.  A  portrait  of  Sir  Thomas  Lawrence,  by  that 
gentleman,  is  a  most  successful  imitation  of  the  style  of 


IN    AMERICA.  13 

the  late  president.  He  exhibited  also  an  excellent  full- 
length  portrait  of  General  La  Fayette ;  and  Mr.  Inman, 
a  scarcely  inferior  artist,  is  at  present  employed  in  paint- 
ing- another,  of  Mr.  Penn,  which  will  occupy  a  place  be- 
side the  General  in  the  Hall  of  Independence.  I  also 
observed  a  composition-landscape,  by  Mr.  Fisher,  which 
had  very  great  merit.  It  was  well  remarked  in  the  pre- 
face to  the  catalogue,  that  so  many  of  the  pictures  did 
not  need  indulgence,  in  comparison  with  that  which  had 
heretofore  been  cheerfully,  and  with  justice,  conceded  to 
them.  This  was  very  true  of  a  large  proportion  of  them, 
but  some  nevertheless,  needed  it  not  a  little ;  and  in  fact 
had  no  business  there.  It  is  a  pity  that  the  Americans 
do  not  take  warning  by  the  constant  outcry  that  for  so 
many  years  has  been  justly  raised  against  the  swarm  of 
portraits  that  annually  cluster  on  the  walls  of  Somerset- 
house.  They  might  well  devote  more  of  their  time  and 
talent  to  historical  painting.  With  the  exception  of  the 
"  Sortie  from  Gibraltar,"  by  Colonel  Trumbull,  and  an- 
other very  indifferent  picture,  there  were,  I  think,  no 
historical  pieces  in  the  room  appropriated  to  modern 
events.  The  Americans  cannot  plead  a  want  of  sub- 
jects :  the  revolution  is  not  half  illustrated ;  besides,  they 
may  depend  upon  it,  portrait  painting  is  a  very  aristo- 
cratical  thing  after  all,  and  should  not  be  generally  en- 
couraged, on  that  account.  In  running  over  the  walls 
of  a  modern  exhibition-room,  the  eye  is  fatigued  by  its 
endeavours  to  avoid  an  encounter  with  the  features  of 
individuals  in  a  new  character,  to  which  many  of  them 
never  had  the  slightest  pretensions,  except  upon  canvass. 
The  water-works  on  the  Schuylkill  are  probably  the 
finest  in  the  world:  they  can  scarcely  be  praised  too 
highly  for  beauty  of  design,  simplicity  of  construction, 
and  real  usefulness.  A  dam,  sixteen  hundred  feet  in 
length,  is  thrown  across  the  river,  by  which  the  stream 
is  backed  up  for  several  miles,  and  an  enormous  water- 
power  thus  created.  The  solid  rock  has  been  excavated 
in  order  to  obtain  what  is  termed  a  race ;  and  by  means 
of  huge  double  forcing  pumps,  worked  by  immense 
wheels,  the  water  is  thrown  up  into  an  ample  reservoir, 
fifty-six  feet  above  the  highest  ground  in  the  city.  It  is 
calculated  that  each  wheel  and  pump  could  raise  one 
million  two  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  gallons  in  twenty- 
four  hours,  if  allowed  to  play  without  intermission.  The 
rising  ground  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  water-works 
affords  the  best  and  nearest  general  view  of  the  city. 
2 


14  SIX    MONTHS 

Thence  I  visited  the  botanical  gardens  of  Mr.  Pratt,  con- 
taining a  very  fine  orangery,  and  a  choice  collection  of 
exotics,  and  delightfully  situated  on  the  east  side  of  the 
Schuylkill,  which  spreads  out  to  a  great  extent  immedi- 
ately beneath  them,  with  banks  wooded  to  the  water's 
edge.  In  a  very  few  years  this  fine  scene  is  destined  to 
be  unnatured.  By  this  time  a  rail-road  is  commenced, 
which  will  run  from  Philadelphia  to  Columbia,  a  distance 
of  eighty-two  miles :  it  will  there  join  the  great  Pennsyl- 
vania canal,  which  has  been  finished  nearly  all  the  way 
from  the  eastern  side  of  the  Alleghany  mountains.  In 
order  to  pass  these,  a  rail-road  on  inclined  planes,  will 
be  constructed ;  by  which  the  rich  mineral  productions 
on  the  western  slope  of  the  mountains,  consisting  chiefly 
of  iron  and  bituminous  coal  of  the  finest  quality,  will  be 
quickly  forwarded  to  Philadelphia  in  any  quantity.  The 
greatest  height  of  the  Alleghany  mountains  in  Pennsyl- 
vania, is  thirteen  hundred  feet.  The  rail-road  I  have 
mentioned,  will  pass  at  a  short  distance  from  the  water- 
works ;  and  therefore,  in  all  probability,  no  very  long 
period  will  elapse  before  the  vicinity  will  become  a  coal- 
yard. 

The  porcelain  manufactory  is  not  far  off.  I  was  told 
that  the  material  was  little  inferior  to  that  of  Sevres,  but 
I  found  the  painting  indifferent.  French  China  is  still 
preferred,  and  superiority  cannot  yet  be  expected  hi  thi& 
department 

In  my  way  back  to  the  city,  I  visited  the  Penitentiary 
of  Pennsylvania.  This  is  the  most  extensive  building  in 
the  United  States.  The  front  is  670  feet  in  length — very 
handsome,  and  bearing  a  baronial  and  gloomy  appear- 
ance, in  the  style  of  our  old  English  castles.  Its  area  is 
a  square,  with  a  tower  at  each  angle  of  the  prison  wall. 
It  is  intended  that  eight  corridors  should  radiate  from  an 
observatory  in  the  centre  of  the  area,  but  only  three  are 
in  use  at  present.  These  contain  the  cells,  and  com- 
mand a  free  circulation  of  air,  and  a  plentiful  supply  of 
water.  The  only  punishment  adopted,  is  solitary  con- 
finement. This  Penitentiary  is  too  young  an  establish- 
ment to  afford  a  perfect  confidence  in  the  opinions  of 
those  who  are  favourable  to  its  system.  The  reports  of 
the  inspectors  are,  however,  extremely  encouraging. 
The  first  and  present  warder  (Mr.  Samuel  R.  Wood) 
was  only  appointed  in  June,  1829.  This  gentleman, 
who  is  well  known  as  a  kind  of  second  Howard  in  hi- 
way,  has  visited  many  of  the  principal  prisons  in 


IN    AMERICA.  15 

Europe ;  and  now  finds  employment  for  his  talents  and 
his  humanity  in,  I  believe,  his  native  city.  Every  crime 
committed  in  the  state  of  Pennsylvania,  on  this  side  of 
the  Alleghany  mountains,  that  is  punishable  by  imprison- 
ment at  all  for  the  space  of  one  year  or  more,  is  to  be 
expiated  by  solitary  confinement  within  this  Peniten- 
tiary. That  at  Pittsburg,  on  the  Ohio,  receives  those 
whose  crimes  are  committed  on  the  western  side  of 
the  Alleghany.  Every  prisoner  is  allowed  to  work  at 
his  trade  ;  or  if  he  have  none,  or  one  that  he  cannot  fol- 
low in  his  cell,  he  is  allowed  to  choose  one,  and  is  in- 
structed by  one  of  the  overseers,  who  are  all  masters  of 
different  trades.  Mr.  Wood,  in  his  last  report,  gives  it 
as  his  opinion,  that  a  prisoner  who  has  two  years  or  up- 
wards to  remain  in  prison,  can,  in  his  solitary  cell,  earn 
sufficient  to  clear  all  his  expenses  from  his  admission  till 
his  discharge.  The  Philadelphia  system  differs  from 
that  at  Sing-sing,  in  the  state  of  New  York.  At  Sing- 
sing,  the  prisoners  are  brought  out  to  work  together,  but 
are  not  allowed  to  speak  to  each  other.  At  Philadelphia 
tKfey  never  work  together ;  and  from  the  time  of  his  ad- 
mission, one  prisoner  never  sees,  or  speaks  with  another.  , 
My  English  ideas  were  not  a  little  startled  at  first,  when  V 
I  found  that  high  treason  is  expiable  by  solitary  confine- 
ment for  not  less  than  three,  nor  more  than  six  years ; 
and  that  the  punishment  for  the  second  offence  was  soli- 
tary confinement  for  ten  years.  Treason  against  the 
state  of  Pennsylvania  is  here  alluded  to.  By  the  articles 
of  the  constitution,  treason  against  the  United  States 
shall  consist  only  in  levying  war  against  them ;  or  in  ad- 
hering to  their  enemies,  giving  them  aid  and  comfort 
No  person  shall  be  convicted  of  treason,  unless  on  the 
testimony  of  two  witnesses  to  the  same  overt  act,  or  on 
confession  in  open  court.  Congress  shall  have  power  to 
declare  the  punishment  of  treason,  but  no  attainder  of 
treason,  shall  work  corruption  of  blood  or  forfeiture,  ex- 
cept during  the  life  of  the  person  attainted.  Treason 
against  the  United  States  is  a  capital  offence.  Murder 
in  the  second  degree,  that  is,  murder  committed  in  a 
sudden  quarrel,  but  without  malice  prepense,  is  punished 
by  solitary  confinement  at  labour  for  three,  and  not 
more  than  six  years ;  for  the  second  offence,  for  a  period 
not  exceeding  ten  years.  The  punishment  for  burglary 
is  solitary  confinement  for  not  less  than  two,  nor  more 
than  ten  years  ;  for  the  second  offence,  for  a  period  not 
exceeding  fifteen  years.  For  robbery,  or  being  accessary 


16  SIX    MONTHS 

thereto  before  the  fact,  the  period  is  for  not  less  than 
one,  nor  more  than  seven  years ;  for  the  second  offence, 
for  a  period  not  exceeding  twelve  years.  Mayhem,  kid- 
napping,  horsestealing,  perjury,  &c.  are  all  punished  by 
solitary  confinement  for  different  periods.  Almost  every 
species  of  forgery,  or  aiding,  abetting,  or  commanding 
the  perpetration  of  a  forgery,  whether  it  be  of  the  coin 
of  the  state,  or  have  reference  to  the  sale,  utterance  or 
delivery,  or  having  in  possession  the  metallic  plate  used 
in  the  forging  of  any  note  of  any  bank  incorporated  in 
the  state  of  Pennsylvania ;  or  forging,  defacing,  corrupt- 
ing, or  embezzling  any  charters,  gifts,  grants,  bonds, 
bills,  wills,  conveyances,  or  contracts;  or  defacing,  or 
falsifying  any  enrolment,  registry,  or  record ;  or  forging 
any  entry  of  the  acknowledgment,  certificate,  or  endorse- 
ment, whereby  the  freehold  or  inheritance  of  any  person 
or  persons  may  be  charged ;  or  of  counterfeiting  the 
hand  or  seal  of  another  with  intent  to  defraud ;  or  the 
privy  or  great  seal  of  the  state  of  Pennsylvania,  is  pun- 
ished with  solitary  confinement  for  a  period  of  not  less 
than  one,  nor  more  than  seven  years  ;  and  for  the  second 
offence,  for  a  period  not  exceeding  ten  years.  It  is  ex- 
pected that  few  offenders  will  run  the  risk  of  solitary 
confinement  for  a  second  time. 

When  first  received,  the  prisoner  is  left  alone,  and  it 
seldom  happens  that  he  does  not  ask  for  a  Bible,  and 
work,  after  the  lapse  of  a  few  hours.  A  Bible  and  a 
few  other  religious  books  are  allowed  him.  In  a  few 
days  the  withdrawal  of  his  employment  is  felt,  and 
adopted  as  a  punishment,  with  the  most  obstinate  and 
hardened.  The  chaplain  occasionally  visits  the  prison- 
ers, and  on  Sundays  he  takes  a  station  whence  the 
words  of  prayer  and  exhortation  can  be  heard  by  eve- 
ry prisoner  in  his  cell,  as  they  echo  along  the  vaulted 
roof  of  the  corridor. 

If  any  punishment  can  be  said  to  be  dignified,  that 
of  solitary  confinement  has  a  claim  to  that  epithet. 
Justice  to  society  is  nobly  done,  not  only  in  the  remo- 
val of  the  prisoner  in  the  first  instance,  but,  secondly, 
by  enabling  him  to  return,  as  it  were,  to  the  world,  a 
wiser  and  a  better  man.  The  end  of  solitary  confine- 
ment is  the  reformation  of  the  criminal,  by  obliging 
him  to  think  who  never  thought  before.  If  reflection 
can  be  awakened,  and  conscience  can  obtain  a  hear- 
ing, its  advantages  will  be  readily  acknowledged.  The 


IN    AMERICA.  17 

prisoner  is  forced  to  commune  with  his  own  soul ;  the 
all-powerful  voice  of  ridicule  is  absent  and  unheard ; 
remorse  is  not  stifled,  and  penitence  is  not  put  to 
flight,  by  the  sneers  of  a  dissolute  companion  :  with 
no  one  to  admire,  and  applaud  his  resolution  to  he 
"game" — to  submit,  is  the  only  alternative. 

In  England  the  system  could  not,  generally,  I  think, 
succeed.  The  effect  of  solitary  confinement  might  be 
the  same  on  the  moral  character  of  the  prisoner,  but 
unless  something  like  a  permanent  means  of  getting  a 
livelihood  be  secured  to  him,  after  his  removal  from  the 
prison,  the  principal  and  best  object  of  the  punishment 


would  not  be  obtained.  This  would  be  extremely  dif- 
ficult in  a  country  of  small  extent,  with  a  superabun- 
dant population,  and  a  supply  of  labour  far  exceeding 


bable  that  he  would  not  find  employment;  and  the  n 


cessary  consequence' would  be,  that  all  his  good  reso- 
lutions would  vanish  at  the  approach  of  want. 

No  country  is  so  well  adapted  for  the  experiment  as 
the  United  States  of  America.  Enterprise  is  abroad 
in  every  direction,  and  labour  is  well  paid.  When  the  >^ 
period  of  confinement  is  at  an  end,  the  criminal  may 
wander  to  any  corner  of  that  vast  continent, — and  go 
where  he  will,  the  wages  of  industry  are  always  at 
his  command.  He  is  in  little  fear  of  being  recognized 
by  his  fellow-prisoners,  because  no  prisoner  is  allowed 
to  see  another.  His  former  associates  in  crime  are  dis- 
persed, or  in  prison,  or  in  the  grave ;  and  the  hope  that 
attended  him  in  his  cell  is  realised,  by  the  facility  of 
gaining  a  new  character,  and  friends  who  are  ignorant 
of  his  crime.  It  should  be  added  to  this  notice  of  the 
Penitentiary,  that  every  cell  opens  into  a  small  paved 
court-yard,  in  which  the  prisoner  can  take  exercise ;  and 
that  the  system  has  not  been  found  prejudicial  to  health 
of  mind  or  body,  as  had  been  anticipated. 

I  visited  the  Museum  at  Philadelphia,  which  is  said  to 
be  the  best  in  the  United  States.  It  contains  a  skeleton 
of  the  mammoth ;  a  fine  collection  of  Indian  curiosities 
and  American  animals :  the  most  extraordinary  of  these 
is,  perhaps,  a  specimen  of  the  gigantic  ray  a  or  ray,  or 
devil-fish,  measuring  twelve  feet  in  length,  by  fifteen  in 
breadth ;  and  weighing  more -than  2000  Ibs.  In  the  gal- 


18  SIX    MONTHS 

lery  are  arranged  a  number  of  portraits,  chiefly  of  distin- 
guished Americans,  which  are  said  to  be  admirable  like- 
nesses ;  but  certainly  not  valuable  as  paintings.  I  was 
much  better  pleased  altogether  with  the  museum  belong- 
ing to  the  Academy  of  Natural  Sciences.  It  is  much 
smaller  than  the  other,  but  far  more  scientifically  ar- 
ranged. 

The  dock-yard  at  Philadelphia  contained,  when  I 
visited  it,  a  sixty-gun  frigate,  nearly  finished,  and  the 
Pennsylvania,  a  four  decker,  with  a  round  stern,  also  in 
an  unfinished  state,  and  destined  to  carry  one  hundred 
and  forty-four  guns.  This  enormous  vessel  is  two  hun- 
dred and  twenty  feet  in  length,  and  fifty -eight  across  the 
main  beam.  Her  timbers  seemed  light  in  proportion  to 
her  immense  size ;  they  certainly  do  not  appear  to  be 
thicker  than  an  ordinary  British  seventy-four.  The 
great  strength  of  the  knees,  hewever,  is  said  to  com- 
pensate for  the  apparent  weakness  of  her  other  timbers. 
There  were  no  workmen  employed  upon  her,  and  salt- 
petre was  strewed  over  her  wherever  it  would  lie.  She 
is  larger  than  the  old  Santissima  Trinidad,  destroyed  at 
Trafalgar ;  but  not  so  large  as  a  Turkish  ship  of  the  line, 
launched,  I  believe,  since  the  battle  of  Navarino.  All 
the  guns  of  the  Pennsylvania  will  be  thirty-two  pound 
carronades  on  the  spar-deck,  and  long  guns  on  the 
others.  Her  anchor  weighs  more  than  11,000  Ibs.  With 
such  a  tremendous  weight  of  metal,  it  is  probable  that 
she  would  not  be  able  to  stand  the  wear  and  tear  of  the 
long  blockades  in  which  many  of  our  ships  wore  em- 
ployed during  the  war. 

The  timber  of  the  live-oak,  so  called  from  its  being  an 
evergreen,  is  supposed  to  be  imperishable.  This  tree 
grows  almost  exclusively  in  the  southern  states  ;  but  is 
annually  becoming  more  scarce  and  valuable,  as  the  ex- 
treme slowness  of  its  growth  cannot  keep  pace  with  the 
demand  :  the  Americans  will  probably  find  themselves 
obliged  to  plant  it,  before  another  quarter  of  a  century 
has  elapsed. 

The  following  treatment  of  the  different  kinds  of  tim- 
ber used  in  the  American  navy  is  recommended  in  the 
report  of  the  secretary  of  the  navy  for  1829.  Live-oak 
should  be  immersed  for  twelve  months  in  water,  then 
taken  up  and  placed  under  cover  to  protect  it  against 
sun,  rain,  and  high  winds.  Its  immersion  is  recom- 
mended by  the  fact  that  it  renders  it  less  liable  to  split 


IN    AMERICA.  19 

White-oak,  which  is  inferior  to  the  British  white  or 
navy  oak,  should  be  docked  about  eighteen  months  in 
fresh,  or  two  years  in  salt  water ;  then  taken  up  and 
sawed  into  such  sizes  as  may  be  required,  then  placed 
under  cover  for  about  two  or  three  years.  Yellow  pine 
should  be  docked  about  twelve  months ;  then  taken  up, 
sawed,  and  covered  for  two  years.  Mast  timber  should 
be  immersed  and  covered  in  mud  till  wanted  for  use. 
All  timber  ought  to  be  cut  when  the  greatest  portion  of 
sap  is  in  circulation,  at  some  time  from  the  first  of  No- 
vember to  the  end  of  February ;  it  should  then  be  im- 
mersed in  water,  and  never  taken  out  but  early  in  the 
spring :  and  it  was  given  as  an  opinion,  that  if  all  timber 
underwent  this  process,  the  ships  might  last  double  the 
time  they  otherwise  would. 

I  went  to  both  the  principal  theatres,  but  did  not  think 
that  either  they  or  the  performances  were  as  good  as  at 
New  York.  I  saw  Mr.  Cooper,  the  famed  American 
actor,  in  some  old  play,  of  which  I  forget  the  name. 
His  voice  is  extremely  good :  I  remember  that  I  thought 
him  dignified,  but  rather  stiff,  without  however  being 
the  least  awkward  in  his  acting.  I  also  saw  young 
Burke,  as  Doctor  Pangloss.  His  acting  I  thought  ad- 
mirable, and  most  humorous  ;  and  his  violin  playing  is 
quite  extraordinary  for  his  age.  His  tragedy  is  very 
little  inferior  to  his  comedy. 

The  United  States'  bank  at  Philadelphia  is  a  beautiful 
building,  being  a  copy  from  the  Parthenon,  with  such 
alterations  as  were  absolutely  indispensable  in  order  to 
render  it  fit  for  purposes  of  business.  It  has  no  side 
columns  ;  but  the  portico  is  a  splendid  specimen  of  the 
Doric.  The  Ionic  pillars  in  the  interior,  were  brought 
from  Italy.  The  present  United  States'  bank,  was  in- 
corporated by  act  of  congress  on  the  10th  of  April,  1816, 
and  is  chartered  till  the  3d  of  March,  1836.  It  paid  a 
bonus  to  government  of  1,500,000  dollars.  Its  capital  is 
35,000,000  dollars,  divided  into  350,000  shares  of  100 
dollars  each ;  70,000  shares  were  subscribed  by  govern- 
ment, which  therefore  became  a  proprietor  of  one-fifth. 
After  a 'thorough  investigation  of  the  right  of  congress  to 
pass  an  act  of  incorporation,  this  bank  was  first  called 
into  existence  in  the  year  1791,  when  General  Washing- 
ton was  president ;  and  its  charter  expired  in  the  year  1811 . 
The  two  opposing  parties  of  Federalist  and  Democrat  had 
in  effect  begun  to  show  themselves,  though  not  exactly 
2 


20  SIX    MONTHS 

by  those  names,  in  1737.  In '1790,  Mr.  Hamilton,  the 
secretary  of  the  treasury,  made  his  celebrated  report  on 
the  state  of  the  public  debts  contracted  during  the  revo- 
lutionary war.  He  proposed  that  the  debts  of  the  conti- 
nental congress,  and  those  incurred  by  the  states  indi- 
vidually, should  be  funded  by  the  general  government, 
and  that  the  interest  should  be  paid  by  taxes  on  articles 
of  luxury,  and  on  ardent  spirits.  This,  it  was  thought, 
would  give  too  much  power  to  the  federal  government, 
in  opposition  to  the  rights  of  the  states  separately  consi- 
dered ;  and  it  was  on  account  of  their  conflicting  opinions 
respecting  this  federal  measure,  that  the  two  parties  who 
supported  or  opposed  the  new  constitution,  first  acquired 
the  names  of  federalist  and  democrat.  Their  first  dif- 
ferences under  these  appellations,  were  on  the  bank 
question,  which  afterwards  became,  and  is  now  to  a  cer- 
tain extent,  a  test  of  political  principle.  Its  establish- 
ment had  been  opposed  on  constitutional  grounds  by  Mr. 
Jefferson  and  Mr.  Madison ;  by  the  former  in  the  execu- 
tive cabinet,  and  by  the  latter  in  congress,  and  both  dis- 
tinguished democrats.  It  was  asserted  that  congress 
had  no  power  to  create  corporations.  The  federalist 
was  in  favour  of  a  liberal  construction  of  the  articles  of 
the  constitution,  and  an  extension  of  the  powers  thereby 
vested  in  the  federal  assembly  or  congress  of  the  United 
States,  in  opposition  to  what  are  termed  state  rights,  or 
powers  claimed  separately  by  the  states  in  their  indi- 
vidual capacity.  The  federalist  was  said  to  be  friendly 
to  Great  Britain,  and  to  be  indifferent  to  the  principles 
of  the  French  revolution.  He  was  in  favour  of  the  alien 
law,  by  which  the  president  was  enabled  to  compel  sus- 
pected foreigners  to  leave  the  country  ;  and  of  the  sedi- 
tion law,  which  provided  for  the  prosecution  and  punish- 
ment of  false  and  malicious  accusations  against  the  pre- 
sident and  members  of  congress.  In  fact,  these  mea- 
sures were  passed  by  congress  during  the  administration 
of  John  Adams,  who  succeeded  General  Washington, 
and  was  the  second  and  last  of  the  federal  party  elected 
to  the  office  of  president.  The  democrat  regarded  the 
principles  of  the  federalist  as  far  too  aristocratical  for 
the  atmosphere  of  America.  He  was  a  strict  interpreter 
of  the  articles  of  the  constitution,  and  kept  a  careful 
watch,  lest  the  federal  government,  in  its  united  capacity, 
should  usurp  any  powers  which  he  considered  as  the 
rights  and  privileges  of  individual  states.  Under  the 
overwhelming  influence  of  the  democrat  principles, 


IN   AMERICA.  21 

which  have  been  on  the  increase  more  and  more  from 
the  first  year  of  Mr.  Jefferson's  presidency,  the  federalist 
party  have  experienced  a  great  decrease  in  number,  and 
their  principles  have  lost  much  of  their  rigidity.  In  fact, 
the  two  parties  may  be  said  to  be  nearly  extinct,  even  in 
name ;  the  terms  federalist  and  democrat  being  rarely 
mentioned  now. 

The  federalist  was  always  the  enemy  of  universal  suf- 
frage. He  was  for  imposing  a  substantial  qualification 
on  every  voter  ;  on  the  principle  that  property,  and  not 
persons,  should  be  represented.  In  Pennsylvania  for  in- 
stance, the  right  of  suffrage  is  possessed  by  every  free- 
man of  the  ageiof  twenty-one  years,  who  has  resided  in 
the  state  for  two  years  next  preceding,  and  who,  within 
that  time,  has  paid  a  state  or  county  tax,  assessed  at 
least  six  months  before  the  election;  and  a  poll  tax  of 
fifty  cents  per  annum,  confers  this  right  upon  individuals 
who  are  not  in  circumstances  to  pay  any  other.  That 
corruption  to  a  great  extent  is  generated  by  this  system, 
is  admitted  on  all  hands ;  it  is  obviously  a  matter  of 
course  that  it  should  be  so.  Even  in  democratic  Ame- 
rica there  are  to  be  found  thousands  who  readily  ac- 
knowledge the  real  causes  of  their  prosperity  to  be  iden- 
tified with  those  that  have  prevented  this  system  from 
figuring  in  its  real  colours ;  and  who  freely  admit  that 
it  proceeds  from  a  comparative  exemption  from  taxes  ; 
an  unbounded  extent  of  country ;  an  admirable  spirit  of 
enterprise ;  a  population  not  too  large,  and  a  consequent 
abundance  of  employment — not  from  the  existence  of  a 
peculiar  political  system. 

But  to  return  to  the  subject  of  the  United  States'  bank. 
When  Mr.  Jefferson  and  the  democrats  came  into  power, 
the  renewal  of  the  bank  charter  was  discussed  as  a  party 
question.  At  this  period  excitement  was  at  its  height ; 
and  the  federalists  made  themselves  so  conspicuous  by 
their  indiscriminating  opposition  to  those  measures  of 
commercial  restriction  adopted  by  the  democrats  in 
power,  against  Great  Britain,  in  compliance  with  the 
policy  of  the  new  French  government,  that  they  were 
considered  by  a  large  proportion  of  the  American  nation, 
as  the  apologists  for  the  conduct  of  a  country  already  re- 
garded in  the  light  of  a  public  enemy.  Yet  such  was 
the  general  opinion  of  the  good  that  had  been  diffused 
throughout  the  Union  by  the  bank,  that  the  question  of 
the  renewal  of  its  charter,  was  only  lost  by  the  casting 
vote  of  the  president  of  the  senate,  and  by  one  vote  in 


22  SIX    MONTHS 

the  house  of  representatives.  In  less  than  three  years 
after  the  expiration  of  the  charter  in  1811,  the  war  with 
Great  Britain  having  taken  place  in  the  mean  time,  the 
finances  were  in  a  state  of  incredible  embarrassment ; 
and  the  re-establishment  of  the  United  States'  bank  re- 
commended by  Mr.  Dallas,  who  was  then  secretary  to 
the  treasury,  received  the  sanction  of  Mr.  Madison  ;  and 
the  measure  passed  both  branches  of  congress  during  the 
ascendancy  of  that  very  party  which  was  previously  op- 
posed to  it. 

In  consequence  of  the  non-renewal  of  the  bank  charter, 
bank  credit  to  the  amount  of  15,000,000  of  dollars  was 
withdrawn  from  the  public  service,  and  a  number  of 
local  banks  immediately  sprang  up. 

Freed  from  the  salutary  control  of  the  United  States' 
bank,  they  commenced  a  system  of  imprudent  trading, 
and  excessive  issues,  which  speedily  disordered  the  cur- 
rency of  the  country ;  and  notwithstanding  all  her  re- 
sources, and  all  her  patriotism,  in  the  last  year  of  the 
last  war,  the  United  States  were  on  the  eve  of  bank- 
ruptcy,  solely  for  the  want  of  some  national  institution 
that  would  have  assisted  the  exigencies  of  government, 
and  supported  a  circulating  medium  of  general  credit 
throughout  the  Union.  The  loss  of  the  United  States 
during  the  three  years  when  there  was  no  bank,  was  es- 
timated at  not  less  than  46,000,000  of  dollars,  sustained 
exclusively  by  want  of  a  sound  currency  and  an  efficient 
system  of  finance. 

The  United  States'  bank  has  established  branch  banks 
at  twenty-two  of  the  principal  commercial  cities  of  the 
Union.  When  it  was  first  opened  there  were,  as  we 
have  seen,  but  two  parties  in  the  country,  both  acting 
from  motives  purely  patriotic.  The  number  is  now  in- 
creased, and  interest  is  not  now,  as  it  was  then,  left  out 
of  the  question.  The  bank  charter  does  not  expire  till 
1836 ;  but  the  sentiments  of  the  president  on  the  subject 
of  its  renewal,  which  so  deeply  involves  the  commercial 
happiness  of  the  Union,  cannot  but  be  speculated  upon 
with  peculiar  interest,  even  at  this  distance  of  time. 

It  is  said  that  General  Jackson  is  unfavourable  to  its 
renewal.  In  his  message  of  1830  he  expressed  an  opin- 
ion, that  the  bank  had  failed  in  the  great  end  of  estab- 
lishing an  uniform  and  sound  currency.  This  is  sup- 
posed to  have  reference  merely  to  the  circumstance  of 
the  bank,  not  in  all  cases  redeeming  the  bills  issued  by 
any  one  of  its  branches  indiscriminately  at  all  the  others. 


IN  AMERICA.  23 

But  it  would  be  an  obvious  injustice  to  oblige  the  bank 
to  any  such  measure  :  the  attempt  would  be  quite  incom- 
patible with  its  existence ;  as  it  is  evident,  that  if  the 
exchange  were  unfavourable  in  one  state,  and  favourable 
in  another,  the  flow  of  notes  from  the  state  where  it  is 
unfavourable,  would  soon  suspend  or  contract  all  the 
operations  of  the  bank ;  and  the  very  evil  of  an  inequality 
of  the  currency,  which  the  establishment  was  designed 
to  remedy,  would  be  increased  by  a  vain  attempt  to  per- 
form impossibilities.  I  need  not,  however,  pursue  this 
subject  further ;  but  will  only  add,  that  all  reasoning  and 
experience  seem  to  favour  a  belief  in  the  advantages 
which  the  banking  establishment  has  conferred  on  the 
country.  It  is,  besides,  in  possession  of  a  considerable 
surplus  fund,  after  deducting  seven  per  cent.,  which  will 
enable  it  to  meet  any  contingences  that  may  arise.  In 
lieu  of  the  United  States'  bank,  an  establishment  to  be 
termed  a  national  bank,  founded  on  the  credit  of  the 
government  and  its  revenues,  has  been  proposed  by 
General  Jackson  and  others.  Five  hundred  agents  are 
employed  at  the  present  moment  in  transacting  the  affairs 
of  the  United  States'  bank  ;  but  the  enormous  increase 
of  patronage  which  would  accrue  to  the  government  by 
the  establishment  of  the  proposed  national  bank,  would 
be  nothing  in  comparison  with  the  power  that  would  be 
vested  in  it,  from  its  having  under  its  control  the  dispen- 
sation of  bank  accommodations  to  the  amount  of  at  least 
50,000,000  of  dollars.  When  these  consequences  are 
considered,  it  is  difficult  to  conceive  how  such  a  plan 
could  find  support  among  the  subjects  of  a  government 
professing  to  be  thoroughly  democratical. 

The  society  of  Philadelphia  is,  taken  altogether,  the 
best  in  the  United  States.  The  gay  season  is  during  the 
winter  months.  Balls  and  concerts  are  then  frequent 
and  well  attended  :  in  this  respect  I  was  unfortunate,  as 
I  was  in  that  city  in  May — but  I  was  partly  recom- 
pensed for  my  loss,  by  the  promenade  in  Washington 
Square,  which,  although  shady  enough,  and  prettily  laid 
out,  is  not  what  the  most  fashionable  promenade  in 
Philadelphia  ought  to  be ; — and  I  could  not  but  remark, 
that  the  display  of  beauty  and  elegance  to  be  seen  there 
about  six  o'clock  on  the  afternoon  of  a  fine  day,  was 
most  richly  deserving  of  a  better  place  of  parade.  I  can- 
not in  conscience  assert  that,  as  far  as  it  went,  I  thought 
it  equal,  and  yet  I  am  scarcely  willing  to  pronounce  it 
inferior,  to  the  splendid  cortege  of  Kensington  gardens. 


24  SIX  MONTHS 

I  had  come  to  the  conclusion  that  I  should  not  be  able 
to  descend  the  Mississippi  to  New  Orleans.  By  the 
time  I  should  arrive  there,  the  extreme  heats  of  an 
American  summer  would  have  been  prevailing  in  that 
very  unhealthy  climate,  and  a  stranger  is  almost  certain 
to  be  attacked  by  fever  and  ague.  The  voyage  down 
the  river  occupies  five  or  six  days  ;  the  voyage  up  the 
river  is  not  performed  in  less  than  ten  or  twelve  ;  and  I 
was  consoled  by  learning  that  the  voyage  is  exceedingly 
tedious,  as  the  low  banks  offer  no  variety  of  scenery  for 
many  days — so  much  so,  that  upon  rising  in  the  morn- 
ing, a  person  might  almost  be  persuaded  he  had  not 
moved  from  that  part  of  the  river  where  he  had  been 
the  previous  evening.  I  therefore  determined  to  make 
a  tour  through  part  of  Pennsylvania :  I  had  heard 
much  of  the  beauty  of  the  scenery,  of  the  trout  fishing, 
and  "  all  that,"  and  accordingly  having  engaged  a  place 
in  the  coach  to  Harrisburg,  the  capital  of  the  State,  I 
started  by  it,  at  the  nondescript  hour  of  two  in  the  morn- 
ing, and  arrived  at  Harrisburg  the  same  evening.  The 
road  lay  through  a  well-cultivated,  but  not  particularly 
interesting  country ;  at  least  I  did  not  think  so,  for  it 
rained  in  torrents  the  whole  morning  ;  and  although  I 
was  inside  the  coach,  one  arm  was  completely  wet 
through,  in  consequence  of  the  oilskin  panels  being  but 
loosely  fastened.  The  great  heat  of  summer  renders  it 
necessary  that  the  conveyances  should  be  as  airy  as  pos- 
sible ;  the  panels,  which  are  made  either  of  leather  or 
oilskin,  are  rolled  up  in  dry  weather,  but  the  "  gentle- 
man in  the  corner"  sometimes  comes  off  very  badly  on 
a  cold  or  rainy  day.  In  addition  to  this,  it  must  be  re- 
membered that  the  American  coaches  usually  carry  nine 
inside,  and  do  not  afford  too  much  liberty  to  the  legs. 
The  three  passengers  who  sit  in  the  middle,  lean  their 
shoulders  against  a  broad  leather  strap,  which  passes 
across  the  coach ;  and  as  this  occasionally  gets  unhooked 
in  passing  over  a  forest  road,  their  heads  are  instantly 
thrown  in  contact  with  the  stomachs  of  those  who  are 
behind  them. 

The  most  considerable  place  we  passed  was  Reading, 
which  has  much  the  appearance  of  a  second  rate-country 
town  in  England.  Viewed  from  the  Sunbury  road,  by 
which  I  returned  to  it  in  my  way  back  to  Philadelphia, 
its  situation,  in  a  fine  surrounding  country,  appears  to 
much  greater  advantage.  We  passed  no  other  place  of 
note  but  Lebanon  ;  in  the  vicinity  of  which  is  to  be  found 


IN  AMERICA.  25 

some  of  the  finest  arable  land  in  Pennsylvania.     Har- 
risburg is  delightfully  situated  on  the  Susquehanna.    It 
was  here  for  the  first  time  I  saw  that  beautiful  river ;  in 
breadth   about  three  quarters  of  a  mile.     Its  clear  and 
shallow  stream  is  not  really  slow,  but  at  a  little  distance 
it  appears  as  tranquil  and  unruffled  as  the  surface  of  a 
lake.     Immediately  opposite  to  Harrisburg  is  an  island, 
from  either  side  of  which  a  long  wooden  bridge  is  thrown 
to  the  opposite   bank  of  the  river.     Harrisburg  is  the 
capital   of  Pennsylvania,    and  is   a  thriving,   neat  and 
pretty-looking  town,  containing  about  four  thousand  in- 
habitants.    The  house  of  assembly,  or  capitol,  as  it  is 
always  called  in  America,  is  built  on  an  eminence.    The 
sittings  of  the  senate  and  house  of  representatives  of 
Pennsylvania  were  held   first  at  Philadelphia,   then  at 
Lancaster,  and  subsequently  for  nearly  the  last  twenty 
years  at  Harrisburg,  which,  from  its  central  situation, 
has  been  found  much  more  convenient.     The  chamber 
where  the  representatives  hold  their  sittings  is  very  large, 
with  separate  desks  for  every  two  or  three  members, 
disposed  in  a  semicircle,  in  the  same  manner  as  the 
French  chamber  of  deputies.     The  chair  in  which  the 
speaker  sits  was  filled  by  the  celebrated  patriot  John 
Hancock,  when  he  presided   in  the  assembly,  by  the 
members  of  which  the  declaration  of  independence  was 
signed  in  the  state  house  at  Philadelphia.     The  senate 
and  representatives  had  just  finished  their  sittings,  after 
having  passed  only  two  hundred  and  sixty-seven  acts. 
I  saw  a  list  of  them.     They   chiefly  related  to  internal 
improvements  ;  and  many  of  them  made  honourable  pro- 
vision for  old  soldiers,  or  the  widows  and  families  of  old 
soldiers,  who  had  served  in  the  revolutionary  war.     An 
experiment,  which  would  have  been  deemed  serious  in 
an  older  country,  was  on  the  eve  of  trial ;  an  act  had 
been    passed    for   levying    a   tax    on   personal  property 
throughout  the  state.    The  bulk  of  the  taxes  had  hitherto 
been  paid  by  the  land  owners,  and  a  new  assessment 
made  once  every  three  years.  The  annual  tax  is  at  the  rate 
of  one,  two,  or  three  dollars  the  acre,  according  to  the 
value  of  the  land.     The  owner  of  personal  property  only, 
however,  enjoyed  an  immunity,  of  which  the  present 
measure  was   intended  to  divest  him,   by  making  him 
pay  a  tax  of  one  dollar  in  a  thousand.     Every  individual 
will  be  obliged  to  swear  to  the  amount  of  his  personal 
property  ;  and  should  he  be  supposed  to  swear  falsely,  an 
officer  will  be  empowered  to  compel  the  production  of 
3 


26  SIX  MONTHS 

any  deed,  bond,  note,  or  bill,  or  of  any  writing  being 
evidence  of  a  debt  owing  to  him.  However,  the  general 
opinion  seemed  to  be,  that  the  graceless  impost  would 
be  acquiesced  in  as  one  of  fairness  and  necessity.  On 
account  of  the  enterprise  of  canals,  railroads,  and  other 
improvements,  the  state  debt  of  Pennsylvania  is  larger 
than  that  of  any  other  of  the  Union,  amounting  to 
14,463,161  dollars, — the  debt  of  New  York  amounting 
to  nearly  9,000,000  dollars.  The  individual  state  debts 
are  very  likely  to  be  increased  rather  than  diminished, 
in  the  end ;  but  as  no  state  debt  has  in  any  instance 
been  increased  except  for  the  purposes  of  internal  im- 
provements, the  augmentation  of  the  debt  will  but  add 
eventually  to  the  prosperity  and  wealth  of  the  state. 
Suppose  any  state,  New  York  for  instance,  were  to  bor- 
row 4,000,000  dollars  for  some  public  work,  as  a  canal 
or  railroad,  at  a  fixed  rate  of  interest,  and  that  the  capi- 
tal borrowed  were  to  be  reimbursable  in  the  year  1850. 
Such  a  rate  of  tonnage  would  be  levied  on  the  canal  or 
railroad  as  would,  after  payment  of  the  interest,  leave  a 
sinking  fund  available  for  the  redemption  of  the  capital 
borrowed,  and  the  state  would  be  left  in  possession  of  a 
large  tract  of  country  rendered  productive  and  valuable 
on  account  of  the  additional  facility  afforded  for  the 
carriage  of  produce  to  market.  Once  only  since  the  for- 
mation of  the  constitution,  and  during  the  presidency  of 
John  Adams,  has  a  direct  and  general  property -tax  been 
imposed  by  the  federal  government  in  time  of  peace. 

The  view  from  the  dome  of  the  capitol  at  Harrisburg 
is  very  fine  ;  but  a  much  better  is  obtained  from  the 
summit  of  a  hill  about  a  mile  behind  the  town,  although, 
perhaps,  the  town  itself  is  not  seen  to  such  advantage. 
A  great  part  of  the  surrounding  country  is  very  well 
cultivated ;  corn-fields,  pasture  and  woodlands,  are  dis- 
tributed over  hill  and  hollow;  and  occasionally  here  and 
there  is  perceived  a  small  farm-house,  of  a  neater  and 
more  English  appearance  than  any  I  had  yet  seen.  On 
every  side  the  landscape  is  terminated  as  usual  by  a 
boundless  forest.  The  Susquehanna  seems  to  lose  itself 
through  a  gap  in  the  Blue  Mountains ;  and  throughout 
the  whole  of  its  course,  which  is  visible  for  a  great  dis- 
tance, its  banks  and  beautiful  islands  are  clothed  with 
the  richest  foliage  to  the  water's  edge.  I  proceeded 
along  the  north  bank  of  the  river  towards  Duncan's 
Island,  and  after  a  ride  of  eight  or  nine  miles,  I  arrived 
at  the  gap  I  have  just  mentioned.  Its  scenery  forcibly 


IN   AMERICA.  27 

reminded  me  of  the  Rhine  at  Drachenfells.  The  ab- 
rupt and  lofty  hill  on  the  left  is  not  surmounted  by  a 
"castled  crag,"  but  it  overhangs,  perhaps,  a  nobler  river, 
whose  banks  are  covered  with  the  forest  trees  of  America, 
instead  of  being  formally  scarped  for  the  culture  of  vines, 
trimmed  like  gooseberry  bushes.  At  a  short  distance 
from  the  gap,  the  river  is  crossed  by  an  enormous 
wooden  bridge  of  eight  arches,  which  is  very  nearly 
half  a  mile  in  length.  The  bridges  in  America  are 
usually  of  wood,  of  admirable  construction,  neatly  painted, 
and  covered  over  like  many  of  the  bridges  in  Switzer- 
land. The  piers  are  of  stone  of  great  size,  and  buttressed 
towards  the  stream.  This  bridge  js  the  largest  of  the 
kind  I  have  seen  any  where. 

In  the  garden  of  the  inn,  or  tavern,  as  it  is  usually 
called,  is  an  Indian  tumulus,  about  fifteen  feet  in  height, 
hemispherical  in  shape,  and  evidently  once  much  higher. 
These  tumuli  are  to  be  seen  in  various  parts  of  Pennsyl- 
vania, and  in  fact,  in  all  parts  of  America  ;  often  two  are 
found  at  no  great  distance  from  one  another.  At  Liver- 
pool, in  that  state,  are  two  of  them,  about  three  quarters 
of  a  mile  apart ;  but  one  had  been  ploughed  over  by  the 
gothic  proprietor  of  the  soil.  At  first  it  is  not  diffi- 
cult to  infer  from  this,  that  a  great  battle  had  taken 
place  in  the  vicinity,  and  that  each  party  had  adopted 
this  place  for  the  burial  of  the  dead, — that  universally, 
and  eternally  distinguishing  characteristic  between  man- 
kind and  those  of  the  brute  creation  that  make  the 
nearest  approaches  to  humanity.  Where,  however,  they 
are  found  singly,  the  researches  of  Mr.  Jefferson  and  of 
others,  induce  us  to  believe  that  they  were  heaped  together 
upon  other  occasions.  In  one  which  he  opened,  Mr. 
Jefferson  conjectures  that  there  might  be  as  many  as  a 
thousand  skeletons  ;  and  appearances  indicated  that  it 
had  derived  its  origin  and  enlargement  from  a  custom  of 
collecting  the  bones  of  the  dead  on  the  spot  at  different 
times.  They  were  deposited  in  layers,  but  in  the  utmost 
confusion  of  relative  position  ;  the  bones  of  the  most  dis- 
tant parts  of  the  body  being  crowded  together.  Those 
of  infants  and  half-grown  persons  were  found  among 
them.  These  tumuli  are  sometimes  composed  of  earth, 
and  sometimes  of  loose  stones,  like  the  cairn  and  carnedd 
of  Scotland  and  Wales. 

The  conjecture,  that  they  were  either  raised  over  the 
dead  in  battle,  or  in  accordance  with  the  custom  sup- 
posed by  Mr.  Jefferson,  is  the  more  probable,  on  account 


28  SIX  MONTHS 

of  the  bones  being  always  found  in  quantities.  The 
European  tumuli,  of  whatever  age  or  nation,  have  either 
been  heaped  up  over  the  ashes  of  some  distinguished 
person,  or  are  found  to  contain  but  a  few  coffins,  of  rough- 
hewn  and  loose  stone.  In  America,  I  believe,  none  are 
supposed  to  cover  the  remains  of  one  person  only,  deeply 
buried  as  in  Europe,  under  the  superincumbent  mass ; 
but  in  the  tumuli  of  America  the  external  coating  of 
earth  will  easily  crumble  away  when  disturbed,  and  will 
frequently  discover  the  bones  at  a  triffling  depth  beneath 
the  surface.  Arrows  and  other  implements  of  war  are 
frequently  found  amongst  them.  The  formation  of  these 
tumuli  is  no  where  understood  to  be  a  modern  custom. 
The  Indians  have  a  feeling  of  reverence  for  them,  and 
use  them  as  land  marks  ;  but  the  most  aged  are  unable 
to  furnish  any  clue  to  the  discovery  of  their  antiquity. 
The  knowledge  of  their  own  ancestors  is  confined  to 
three  or  four  generations,  and  nothing  certain  is  known 
of  the  aborigines  who  formed  these  tumuli.  Humbolt 
himself,  in  his  "  New  Spain,"  after  a  learned  dissertation 
on  the  subject,  is  obliged  to  admit  that  "  the  general 
question  of  the  first  origin  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  con- 
tinent, is  beyond  the  limits  prescribed  to  history,  and  is 
not  perhaps  even  a  philosophical  question."  There  can 
be  no  doubt  that  they  were  a  distinct  race,  and  more 
civilized  than  the  wild  Indians  of  the  present  day,  whose 
Asiatic  origin  is  also  a  subject  of  dispute.  Humbolt 
believes  that  the  analogy  between  the  languages  of  Tar- 
tary  and  those  of  the  new  continent  extends  to  a  very 
small  number  of  words.  He  adds,  that  the  want  of 
wheat,  oats,  barley,  rye,  and  of  all  those  nutritive  grami- 
na  which  go  under  the  name  of  cereal,  seems  to  prove 
that  if  Asiatic  tribes  passed  into  America,  they  must 
have  descended  from  pastoral  people.  We  see  in  the 
old  continent,  that  the  cultivation  of  cereal  gramina,  and 
the  use  of  milk  wrere  introduced  as  far  back  as  we  have 
any  historical  records.  The  inhabitants  of  the  new 
continent,  cultivated  no  other  gramina  than  maize. 
They  fed  on  no  species  of  milk,  though  the  lamas  alpacas, 
and  in  the  north  of  Mexico  and  Canada,  two  kinds  of 
indigenous  oxen,  would  have  afforded  them  milk  in 
abundance.  These  are  striking  contrasts  between  the 
Mongol  and  American  race.  However,  in  the  transac- 
tions of  the  literary  and  historical  society  of  Quebec, 
there  has  lately  been  published  a  "  catalogue  of  a  few 
(ninety  six)  remarkable  instances,  which  induce  a  belief 


IN    AMERICA.  29 

of  the  Asiatic  origin  of  the  North  American  Indians. 
By  Major  Mercer,  R.  A."  These  I  recommend,  as 
they  are  very  interesting.  Robertson  says  that  "the  Esqui- 
maux Indians,  are  the  only  people  in  America  who,  in 
their  aspect  and  character,  bear  any  resemblance  to  the 
Northern  Europeans."  They  differ  from  all  the  other 
Indian  tribes  in  their  language,  disposition,  and  habits 
of  life.  He  thence  infers  the  probability  of  their  having 
originally  passed  over  from  the  North-west  of  Europe, 
and  adds,  "that  among  all  the  other  inhabitants  of 
America,  there  is  such  a  striking  similitude  in  the  form 
of  their  bodies,  and  the  qualities  of  their  minds,  that  not- 
withstanding the  diversities  occasioned  by  the  influence 
of  climate,  or  unequal  progress  of  improvement,  we  must 
pronounce  them  to  be  descended  from  one  source — the 
north  east  of  Asia."  It  may  be  here  added,  that  Cuvier, 
when  speaking  of  the  mouflon  of  the  Blue  Mountains, 
informs  us,  that  it  is  the  only  quadruped  of  any  size,  the 
discovery  of  which  is  entirely  modern,  and  gives  it  as 
his  opinion,  that  perhaps  it  is  only  a  Siberian  goat  that 
has  crossed  the  ice. 

The  junction  of  the  Susquehanna  and  Juniata  rivers 
takes  place  at  Duncan's  island.  The  latter  is  a  muph 
smaller  river,  varying  from  one  to  two  hundred  yards  in 
breadth.  In  some  places  its  thickly  forested  banks  rise 
to  a  great  height  above  the  gloomy-looking  stream,  whose 
dark  placidity  is  occasionally  disturbed  by  small  rapids, 
or  falls,  as  they  arc  termed,  though  they  hardly  deserve 
the  name.  I  observed  a  sunken  raft,  and  one  solitary 
fish  hawk  (osprey).  The  road  continues  along  the  side 
of  the  Juniata  for  several  miles ;  it  then  leaves  it,  and 
conducts  the  traveller  to  Lewistown.  I  observed  nothing 
remarkable  in  this  place.  Its  situation,  however,  is  pic- 
turesque, as  it  is  surrounded  with  abrupt  hills  and  rising 
grounds  of  different  elevation,  with  plenty  of  forest,  as 
usual.  The  distance  from  Lewistown  to  a  place  called 
Brown's  Mills,  is  not  more  than  five  miles.  Here  I 
found  an  excellent  country  inn,  kept  by  an  Irishman, 
and  a  most  delicious  trouting  stream,  running  rapidly 
through  the  woods,  and  emerging  close  to  the  inn.  It 
is  wadeable  in  every  part,  and  swarms  with  trout,  some 
of  them  weighing  more  than  three  pounds.  Those  killed 
with  a  fly,  do  not  average  more  than  half  a  pound  in 
weight ;  but  it  is  no  uncommon  occurrence  to  kill  five 
or  six  dozen  in  two  or  three  hours.  When  I  was  there, 
3* 


30  SIX    MONTHS 

and  in  fact  during  the  Whole  time  I  passed  in  Pennsyl- 
vania, the  season  was  early,  and  the  weather  cold  and 
unfavourable,  so  that  I  killed  but  very  few  fish.  A 
severe  walk  of  twenty-five  miles  through  the  forest,  and 
across  a  range  of  hills  known  by  the  name  of  the  Seven 
Mountains,  brought  me  to  Belfont — a  large  and  thriving 
town,  conspicuous  from  being  placed  on  a  hill  in  the 
midst  of  a  very  pretty  country.  Close  to  Belfont  are 
three  full  mountain  streams,  or  creeks,  as  they  are  called 
in  America.  Spring  creek  in  particular,  contains  an 
enormous  quantity  of  trout,  of  about  the  same  size  as 
those  at  Brown's  Mills  ;  but  the  weather  was  still  unfa- 
vourable, and  it  was  all  in  vain,  that  I  waded  down  the 
stream  for  nearly  four  miles.  I  took  but  seven  or  eight 
moderate-sized  fish.  The  red  hackle  is  considered  the 
best  general  fly.  The  other  streams  are  known  by  the 
names  of  the  Bald  Eagle,  and  Logan's  creek.  The  for- 
mer takes  its  name  from  a  bald  eagle's  nest,  that  was 
annually  built  in  the  vicinity,  or,  which  is  more  probable, 
from  a  tribe  of  Indians  so  called,  who  resided  there.  At 
the  head  waters  of  the  other  creek,  is  still  seen  the  place 
of  residence  of  the  celebrated  Mingo  chief,  Logan,  whose 
eloquent  message  to  Lord  Dunmore,  is  too  well  known 
to  need  insertion  here.  Many  of  the  aged  inhabitants  of 
Belfont  still  remember  him.  His  fate  resembled  that  of 
Demosthenes  and  Cicero  :  he  perished  for  his  eloquence. 
An  old  officer  of  "the  United  States  army,  who,  soon 
after  the  close  of  the  revolutionary  war,  was  ordered  to 
make  surveys  of  the  country  watered  by  the  Allegheny 
river,  informed  me  that  Logan's  nephew,  a  remarkably 
fine  young  Indian,  dined  with  him  one  day  in  his  tent, 
and  that  he  asked  him  what  became  of  Logan.  I  killed 
him,  was  the  reply.  Why  did  you  kill  him  ?  The  na- 
tion ordered  it.  For  what  reason  ?  He  was  too  great  a 
man  to  live :  he  talked  so  well,  that  although  the  whole 
nation  had  intended  to  put  any  plan  in  execution,  yet, 
if  Logan  did  not  approve  of  it,  he  would  soon  gain  a  ma- 
jority in  favour  of  his  opinions.  Was  he  not  then  gene- 
rally in  the  right  ?  Often ;  but  his  influence  divided  the 
nation  too  much.  Why  did  they  choose  you  to  put  him 
to  death  ?  If  any  one  else  had  done  it,  I  would  cer- 
tainly have  killed  him :  I,  who  am  his  nephew,  shall  in- 
herit his  greatness.  Will  they  not  then  kill  you  also  ? 
Yes :  and  when  I  become  as  great  a  man  as  Logan  (laying 
his  hand  on  his  breast  with  dignity,)  I  shall  be  content 
to  die !  He  added,  that  he  shot  him  near  the  Allegheny 


IM  AMERICA.  31 

river.  When  informed  of  the  resolution  of  the  council 
of  his  nation,  Logan  stopped  his  horse,  drew  himself  up 
in  an  attitude  of  great  dignity,  and  received  the  fatal 
ball  without  a  murmur. 

From  Belfont  I  proceeded  on  foot  over  the  mountains  to 
Philipsburgh,  on  the  western  slope  of  the  Allegheny  ridge. 
The  distance  was  about  twenty-eight  miles.  After 
walking  for  several  hours  along  the  side  of  the  Bald  Eagle 
creek,  I  arrived  at  the  foot  of  the  Alleghanies.  They 
are  composed  of  sandstone,  and  are  more  extensive  than 
any  in  the  states  on  this  side  of  the  Rocky  Mountains, 
though  their  height  is  inconsiderable.  The  most  eleva- 
ted part  of  the  ridge  in  Pennsylvania  does  not,  as  I  have 
said  before,  exceed  1300  feet ;  but  at  the  other  peak,  in 
Virginia,  it  rises  to  3950  feet  above  the  level  of  the  great 
western  rivers,  being  two  or  three  hundred  feet  higher 
than  Ben  Lomond.  The  high  peak  on  the  Rocky 
Mountains  is  the  highest  mountain  in  the  United  States, 
and  attains  an  elevation  of  12,500  feet.  Mount  Wash- 
ington, the  highest  of  the  White  Mountains,  is  6,234 
feet  in  height ;  Mansfield,  in  Vermont,  the  most  lofty  of 
the  Green  Mountains,  is  somewhat  higher  than  Ben 
Nevis  in  Scotland,  as  it  rises  to  4279  feet.  I  ascended 
the  Allegheny  by  a  good  road,  that  wound  gradually  up 
the  side  of  the  mountain,  and  after  a  walk  of  about 
three  hours  and  a  half,  I  was  in  full  contemplation  of 
the  most  extensive  forest  view  I  had  ever  yet  beheld. 
I  have  seen  many  of  the  dark  and  impenetrable  pine 
forests  in  the  north  of  Europe,  where  the  mountains  are 
far  higher,  and  the  scenery  proportionably  grander,  but 
I  never  remember  a  forest  so  interminable  as  that  I  am 
speaking  of.  One  small  patch  of  cultivation  was  per- 
ceivable in  a  very  distant  valley,  called,  I  believe,  Penn's 
Valley.  The  vast  thickets  of  Norway,  Sweden,  and 
Russia,  are  chiefly  of  pine  trees,  and  are  grand  and 
gloomy  enough,  but  sometimes  tiresome  from  their 
monotony.  Nature  has  painted  them  with  her  usual 
ability ;  but  the  colouring  she  has  employed  may  be  com- 
pared to  that  of  a  drawing  in  Indian  ink,  equally  credi- 
table to  the  artist,  but  so  pleasing  to  the  eye  as  a  many- 
tinted  picture.  There  are  plenty  of  pines  on  the  Alle- 
gheny, but  there  is  also  an  immense  assemblage  of  other 
trees.  A  lady  informed  me,  that  being  desirous  of  sending 
to  England  specimens  of  the  different  woods  of  this  part 
of  the  country,  she  collected  fifty -two  without  any  diffi- 
culty ;  but  there  are  many  more  than  these.  The  prin- 


32  f  SIX  MONTHS 

cipal  material  of  the  American  navy  is,  as  I  have  before 
noticed,  afforded  by  the  live-oak,  so  called  from  its  being 
an  evergreen,  and  from  its  elasticity,  extreme  durability, 
and  other  generous  properties.  The  leaf  of  this  tree 
resembles  the  ilex  of  Spain  and  England,  but  is  rather 
larger  and  more  pointed.  It  is  not  found  in  Pennsylvania — 
growing  in  the  southern  states  chiefly,  in  Georgia  and 
tiie  Carolinas,  whence  it  is  conveyed  to  the  different 
dock -yards  of  the  Union. 

There  are  here,  nevertheless,  more  than  thirty  varie- 
ties of  the  oak,  each  bearing  a  distinct  fruit :  of  these, 
the  white-oak,  which  is  inferior  in  quality  but  comes  the 
nearest  to  the  navy -oak  of  Great  Britain ;  the  red-oak, 
the  black,  and  the  rock,  or  scrub-oak,  are  the  most  com- 
mon. The  other  trees  of  the  forest,  are  usually  the 
spanish-chesnut  (two  varieties) — the  horse-chesnut  is  not 
indigenous  in  America,  but  thrives  well;  I  saw  one  at 
the  Manor  near  Baltimore — the  hickory  (two  varieties;) 
the  black-walnut ;  the  American-poplar,  or  tulip-tree,  the 
pride  of  the  American  forest,  and  growing  frequently  to 
an  enormous  size ;  yellow,  white,  spruce,  and  hemlock 
pines — the  larch  is  not  found,  or  is  rarely  to  be  met  with, 
in  the  United  States :  I  have  not  seen  them  in  the 
Canadas — bass-wood,  or  common  English-lime ;  sugar- 
maple,  white-maple,  red  and  white  elm,  v;illow, sassafras, 
black  and  yellow  birch,  ash,  gum-tree,  beech,  iron- wood, 
mulberry,  dog-wood,  rhododendron  in  great  quantities, 
kalmea,  latifolia,  hazel,  red  and  white  cedar,  clematis, 
virginiana,  indigo,  and  a  great  variety  of  ferns  and 
wild  vines. 

In  the  autumn,  or  fall,  as  it  is  universally  and  prettily 
termed  in  America,  the  forest  view  is  excessively  beau- 
tiful, in  consequence  of  the  brilliant  assemblage  of 
colours  exhibited  by  the  diversity  of  foliage  collected 
together.  My  eye  roved  over  a  constant  succession 
of  mountain  and  valley,  and  hill  and  hollow,  all  ahko 
clothed  in  the  glorious  forest  garb,  whilst  the  more  dis- 
tant tints  became  bluer  and  bluer,  till  they  faded  away 
at  the  farthest  verge  of  the  horizon.  The  Indian  had 
long  been  driven  or  bought  out  from  this  part  of  the 
country ;  but  the  rocks  and  thickets  of  the  ferest  be- 
neath me  had  doubtless  concealed  many  an  ambush, 
and  witnessed  many  a  carnage.  They  had  responded 
to  the  sharp  twang  of  the  rifle,  and  re-echoed  the  more 
terrific  war-whoop ;  but  during  the  time  that  I  remain- 
ed on  the  top  of  the  mountain,  all  around  me  was  as  si- 


IN    AMERICA.  .  33 

lent  as  the  place  was  solitary,  with  the  exception  of  the 
occasional  stroke  from  the  peaceful  axe  of  the  back- 
woodsman, that  resounded  from  a  glade  about  a  mile 
from  the  spot  where  I  had  sat  down  to  rest  myself. 

I  soon  afterwards  passed  the  Moshanan  creek,  in 
which  an  expert  fisherman  on  a  favourable  day,  can  kill 
any  quantity  of  trout  he  pleases.  Beside  the  bridge,  is 
a  small  and  solitary  tavern,  kept  by  an  Englishman 
from  Gloucestershire.  With  him  resides  an  old  man 
named  Joseph  Earl,  a  complete  specimen  of  the  real 
backwoodsman  ;  just  such  a  character  as  Leatherstock- 
ing,  in  Mr.  Cooper's  novel.  He  will  take  his  rifle  and 
his  knapsack,  and  frequently  absent  himself  for  weeks 
at  a  time  in  search  of  game.  If  he  kill  a  deer,  he  will 
carry  off  the  skin,  and  hang  up  the  venison  in  a  secure 
place,  and  from  his  intimate  acquaintance  with  the 
mountains,  and  every  settler  who  lives  in  them,  no  long 
time  elapses  before  he  can  command  any  assistance  he 
may  require.  The  principal  tenants  of  the  forest  are 
the  cougar  or  painter,  (panther)  as  it  is  very  improperly 
termed  ;  the  bear,  the  wolf,  the  lynx,  (called  the  cata- 
mount,) the  wild  cat,  the  marmot,  the  racoon,  the  opos- 
sum, and  red  and  grey  foxes.  The  deer,  which  in  some 
places  is  very  abundant,  is  the  cerous  virginianus,  a 
species  unknown  in  Europe,  of  a  size  between  the  red 
and  common  fallow  deer,  with  a  small  palmated  horn . 
Beside  this  there  are  but  two  species  of  deer  found  in 
the  eastern  states — the  moose  deer,  or  great  Siberian 
elk,  and  the  American  elk,  four  of  which  were  exhibited 
in  London  some  years  ago  under  the  coined  name  of 
wapiti,  and  which  have  bred  very  well  in  England. 
Other  kinds  of  deer,  and  goats,  and  sheep,  and  an  ante- 
lope from  the  Rocky  Mountains,  are  exhibited  in  the 
Zoological  museum.  The  reindeer  is  found  in  the  colder 
latitudes  of  Lower  Canada,  where  it  exists  in  large 
herds.  A  species  of  stag  of  gigantic  size,  with  enor- 
mous horns,  which  Humboldt  considers  as  a  distinct 
species,  is  very  common  in  the  forests  and  plains  of 
New  California.  He  thinks  it  probable  that  the  horns 
which  were  displayed  by  Montezuma  to  the  companions 
of  Cortez,  as  objects  of  curiosity  on  account  of  their  im- 
mense size,  belonged  to  this  animal.  A  species  of  the 
same  genus  as  the  European  chevreuil,  or  roebuck,  is 
also  found  in  Canada  and  some  of  the  states.  It  is 
larger,  and  longer  eared  than  the  European  animal. 
Of  the  cervus  virginianus,  or  common  deer  of  America, 


34  SIX  MONTHS 

a  single  hunter  will  sometimes  kill  two  or  three  in  a 
day  J  but  will  more  often  go  without  a  shot,  as  they  are 
very  wild,  and  their  sense  of  smelling  exceedingly  acute. 
A  still  day  is  unfavourable;  a  windy  day  is  the  "best,  as 
the  sportsman  can  then  come  very  near  them  on  the 
windward  side.  The  cougar  is  their  greatest  enemy, 
but  is  luckily  not  very  common.  A  few  years  ago  an 
American  gentleman  who  had  taken  up  his  shooting- 
quarters  at  the  tavern  I  have  just  mentioned,  wounded 
a  deer,  and  tracked  it  by  the  blood.  On  coming  up  with 
it,  he  observed  a  cougar  on  the  animal ;  he  fired,  and 
had  the  satisfaction  to  see  it  drop  dead.  When  he  ap- 
proached, he  saw  another,  that  had  crouched  behind  the 
body  of  the  deer.  He  disabled  him,  and  killed  him  with 
the  third  shot.  As  he  was  returning,  he  killed  another 
deer,  and  brought  all  the  four  skins  with  him  to  the 
tavern.  The  old  Englishman  showed  me  the  scalp  of  a 
deer  that  had  been  killed  during  the  last  season  :  a  cou- 
gar was  in  full  pursuit  of  him ;  and  the  deer  took  to  the 
water  close  by  the  tavern.  The  cougar  sprang  on  him 
in  the  water,  but  made  off  when  he  saw  one  of  the  old 
man's  sons  approaching  with  a  rifle,  from  which  the 
poor  deer  received  his  death-wound  immediately  after- 
wards. I  found  that  there  was  a  penalty  of  five  dollars 
for  killing  a  deer  at  this  season  of  the  year. 

The  winged  game  of  these  forests  are — the  wild  tur- 
key, which  being  pursued  with  avidity  by  the  sports- 
man, is  becoming  more  scarce  every  day  :  it  is  larger 
than  the  tame  turkey,  and  its  plumage  closely  resembles 
that  of  the  dark-coloured  domesticated  bird,  but  is  rather 
more  brilliant ;  the  pheasant,  which  is  a  species  of 
wood-grouse ;  the  partridge,  which  should  rather  be 
termed  a  quail,  but  which  is,  in  fact,  as  I  have  hereafter 
noticed,  neither  one  nor  the  other;  the  woodcock,  snipe, 
pigeons,  and  wild  fowl,  in  great  abundance. 

The  largest  snakes  found  in  these  forests,  are  the  rat- 
tle-snake, the  copper-head,  or  moccasin-snake,  so  called 
from  its  yellow  colour,  resembling  that  of  the  moccasin, 
or  Indian  sandal;  and  the  black-snake.  The  latter 
grows  to  the  length  of  seven  or  eight  feet,  and  even 
longer.  It  moves  with  great  rapidity,  is  a  species  of  the 
boa-constrictor,  and  its  habits  and  manner  of  taking  its 
prey  are  similar  to  those  of  that  tremendous  reptile. 
The  bite  is  not  poisonous.  The  copper-head  is  a  very 
dangerous  snake,  as  it  gives  no  warning  like  the  rattle- 
snake. Its  name  is  its  description,  as  far  as  it  goes.  Its 


IN  AMERICA.  35 

length  is  about  three  feet.  The  rattle-snake  is  too  well 
known  to  need  much  description  :  it  invariably  raises  its 
tail  and  rattles  before  it  strikes,  so  that,  in  general,  it 
can  be  easily  avoided.  The  Indians  consider  this  as 
proof  its  noble  nature,  and  accordingly  they  never 
destroy  it,  believing  that  it  has  something  divine  in  it. 
A  large  rattle-snake  would  measure  four  feet  in  length, 
perhaps,  or  a  little  more,  but  is  very  thick  in  proportion. 
When  about  to  attack,  it  suddenly  coils  itself,  with  the 
tail  raised,  and  rattling  in  the  middle  of  the  coil,  and 
can  strike  from  nearly  its  whole  length.  It  is  a  very 
spirited  animal ;  and  from  its  moving  but  slowly  out  of 
the  way,  is  destroyed  with  little  difficulty.  Much  has 
been  said  of  the  extreme  danger  of  its  bite,  and  of  the 
number  of  parsons  bitten;  but  like  the  accidents  from 
canine  madness  in  England,  they  are  far  more  often 
heard  of  than  met  with.  It  is  most  probable  that  a  per- 
son would  die,  unless  immediately  assisted, — or  have  at 
all  events  a  very  narrow  escape,  if  bitten  on  any  part  of 
the  body  that  happened  to  bo  naked;  but  if  struck 
through  his  clothes,  so  great  a  proportion  of  poison  is 
by  them  absorbed,  or  prevented  from  coming  in  contact 
with  the  blood,  that  the  bite,  if  taken  in  time,  is  not 
dangerous. 

It  is  a  well  known  and  singular  fact,  that  the  body 
of  a  person  bitten,  will  sometimes  chajige  whilst  under 
the  influence  of  the  poison,  to  the  colour  of  the  snake 
that  bit  him.  The  plant  called  the  rattle-snake  weed 
(bidens  frondosa)  is  a  remedy  used  by  the  Indians,  and 
sometimes,  I  was  credibly  informed,  with  great  effect. 
The  leaves  and  root  are  boiled  in  milk  and  used  as  a 
poultice ;  the  milk  is  also  taken  internally.  In  Mr. 
Pratt's  botanical  garden  at  Philadelphia,  I  saw  a  speci- 
men of  another  plant  which  is  also  considered  efficacious 
(polygela  senaga)  called  by  the  French  "  1'herbe  a  scr- 
pente  a  sonnettes."  It  grows  in  damp  and  shady  parts 
of  the  woods,  to  a  height  of  about  two  feet ;  has  a  small 
pointed  leaf,  and  a  single  fusiform  root,  resembling  a 
piece  of  stick-liquorice.  I  was,  however,  assured  by  a 
physician  of  eminence  at  Philadelphia,  that  the  only 
remedy  he  had  never  known  to  fail,  was  the  speedy  ap- 
plication of  a  cupping  glass  to  the  wound,  and  a  large 
tea  spoonful  of  ammonia  in  a  wine  glass  filled  with 
water,  administered  every  hour  till  the  symptoms  took 
a  favourable  turn.  It  is  well  known  that  hogs  soon 
destroy  every  Bnake  in  the  woods  around  a  settlement, 


36  SIX  MONTHS 

They  eat  them,  and  are  seldom  known  to  suffer  from 
the  bile,  owing,  it  is  said,  to  the  quantity  of  fat  in  their 
system.  Almost  every  wild  animal  is  their  enemy; 
small  birds  will  often  peck  at  them,  although  at  the 
same  time  credence  is  certainly  to  be  given  to  tho  sto- 
ries of  fascination  or  terror  by  which  small  animals, 
such  as  squirrels  and  birds,  are  sometimes  rendered  un- 
able to  escape  from  them.  Deer  will  crush  them  to 
death,  by  jumping  on  them  with  all  their  four  feet 
brought  close  together.  I  was  frequently  told  that  rat- 
tle-snakes were  common  here  and  there;  but  still  I 
never  saw  one :  the  fact  is,  that  they  generally  lie  con- 
cealed. A  person  travelling  in  the  woods,  will  pome- 
times  come  suddenly  upon  fifty  or  a  hundred  of  them 
basking  on  the  rocks.  They  all  retire  as  the  cold 
weather  approaches,  and  lie  torpid  during  the  whole 
winter;  so  that  a  sportsman  is  in  no  danger  from  them. 
A  French  gentleman,  who  a  year  or  two  ago  was  shoot- 
ing grouse  very  early  in  the  season,  on  the  mountains 
in  New  Jersey,  was  suddenly  struck  near  his  hip  by  a 
rattle-snake  of  the  largest  size  ;  thanks  to  his  loose 
fustian  trowsers,  the  fangs  did  not  touch  him  ;  the 
brute  could  not  extricate  itself,  and  hung  upon  him  till 
stunned  by  repeated  blows  from  his  gun. 

Philipsburg  is  rapidly  increasing,  under  the  advan- 
tages of  English  superintendence:  it  contains  about 
eight  hundred  inhabitants  in  the  town  and  environs.  It 
is  almost  exclusively  the  property  of  one  English  gentle- 
man, who  is  master  of  nearly  70,000  acres  in  that  part 
of  the  country.  While  I  partook  of  his  hospitality,  I 
was  agreeably  surprised  by  the  circle  of  English  society, 
which  I  found  collected  under  his  roof.  Several  English 
have  made  Philipsburg  their  place  of  residence.  Its 
advantages  consist  in  a  remarkably  healthy  situation  on 
the  western  slope  of  the  Alleghanies,  where  the  descent 
is  so  gradual  as  to  be  hardly  perceptible  ;  an  easy  and 
constant  communication  with  Philadelphia  and  Pitts- 
burgh on  the  Ohio  ;  excellent  trout-fishing,  and  shoot- 
ing in  the  forest ;  a  very  cheap  market  (a  sheep  or  deer 
can  be  bought  for  a  dollar),  and  excellent  medical  ad- 
vice. Uncleared  land  may  be  purchased  at  one,  two,  or 
three  dollars  an  acre. 

The  large  beaver  dams  in  this  neighbourhood  afford 
the  finest  pasture  imaginable.  They  run  for  several 
miles  along  the  side  of  the  Moehanan  creek.  What  is 


IN   AMERICA.  37 

now  called  a  beaver  dam,  is  not  merely  the  fence  or  dam 
which  that  industrious,  animal  had  thrown  across  the 
stream,  but  the  whole  meadow  over  which  the  water 
was  spread  in  consequence  of  its  being  arrested  in  its 
course.  The  beaver  was  held  sacred  by  the  Indians, 
and  their  habitations  were  probably  undisturbed  for 
centuries.  The  stream,  when  checked  in  its  career  by 
the  dam  which  those  extraordinary  animals  had  con- 
structed, found  its  level,  of  course,  in  every  nook  to 
which  it  could  gain  access ;  and  trees  and  shrubs  rotted 
away  with  so  much  moisture.  As  the  beaver  was  de- 
stroyed, or  driven  out  by  the  progress  of  civilization, 
the  dams  gave  way,  and  the  stream  soon  returned  to  its 
former  channel,  and  the  bottom  of  the  pond  or  dam  is 
converted  into  a  fine  meadow,  exceedingly  valuable  for 
the  purposes  of  the  grazier.  A  person  may  travel 
through  the  forest  for  many  miles,  and  will  suddenly 
emerge  upon  a  green  open  space,  with  scarcely  a  tree 
or  shrub  upon  it,  although  at  the  same  time  it  bo  sur- 
rounded by  a  leafy  wall  of  the  loftiest  forest  trees.  An 
English  gentleman  had  just  commenced  a  farm  on  one 
of  these  dams,  and  I  rode  about  six  miles  through  the 
woods  to  visit  him.  The  place  had  much  the  appearance 
of 'an  English  park,  which  deer  and  other  wild  animals 
would  frequently  cross,  and  sometimes  within  rifle-shot 
from  his  window.  It  was  more  than  a  mile  in  length, 
with  the  shape  and  appearance  of  a  billiard  table. 

At  Philipsburg,  and  in  the  neighbourhood,  are  several 
iron  works.  I  visited  a  curious  screw  manufactory 
there :  the  machine  for  heading  the  screws  was  invented 
on  the  spot,  and  probably  there  is  not  such  another  to  be 
found  any  where.  It  turned  out  about  sixty  screws  in 
a  minute,  and  finished  them  off  with  a  neatness  that 
would  excite  the  surprise  even  of  a  mechanist. 

I  have  before  mentioned  that  Philadelphia  will  shortly 
be  connected  with  the  Ohio  river,  by  means  of  the  Co- 
lumbia rail-road,  from  which  the  great  Pennsylvania 
canal  will  soon  be  finished  to  the  foot  of  the  Alleghany 
mountains,  where  it  will  be  joined  by  another  rail-road, 
which  will  pass  the  mountains,  and  communicate  with 
Pittsburg.  Another  rail-road  will,  most  probably,  be 
constructed,  so  as  to  intersect  the  same  canal  a  little 
above  Huntingdon.  It  will  come  from  the  bituminous 
coal  district,  which  lies  about  Philipsburg  and  Clearfield 
county,  and  is  spread  over  a  great  extent  of  ground  on 
4 


38  SIX    MONTHS 

the  western  slope  of  the  Alleghany.  Plenty  of  stone  or 
anthracite  coal  is  to  be  found-in  many  parts  of  Pennsyl- 
vania, and  in  vast  quantities ;  but  the  bituminous  coal 
used  in  the  transatlantic  cities  is  supplied  either  from 
Liverpool,  from  Nova  Scotia,  or  from  Virginia.  The 
particles  of  the  Virginia  coal,  however,  are  too  much 
divided,  and  it  more  resembles  the  coal  used  by  a  black- 
smith, than  the  Newcastle  coal.  I  have  understood  that 
bituminous  coal  has  been  lately  discovered,  although  in 
very  small  quantities,  in  Pennsylvania,  on  the  eastern 
Bide  of  the  mountain.  The  anthracite  coal  throws  out 
a  very  powerful  heat,  but  is  very  troublesome  and  un- 
manageable, requiring  a  long  lime  before  it  will  kindle 
properly;  burning  without  flame  or  smoke,  and  creating 
an  unpleasant  and  rather  unhealthy  dryness  in  the  at- 
mosphere of  a  room.  An  experiment  had  been  success- 
fully tried  in  New  York,  by  which  the  anthracite  coal 
had  been  rendered  subservient  to  the  purposes  of  the 
eteam-engine.  It  was  contrived  that  a  stream  of  hy- 
drogen-gas, generated  by  part  of  the  engine,  should  flow 
constantly  over  the  burning  coa?,  so  that  a  powerful 
flame  was  thus  fed  under  the  boiler.  But  in  all  cases 
where  a  manageable  fire  is  required,  the  bituminous 
coal  is  far  preferable.  By  means  of  the  Philipsburg 
rail-road,  the  whole  country  will  be  supplied  with  this 
valuable  mineral,  at  a  very  moderate  expense,  from  the 
inexhaustible  stores  on  the  western  slope  of  the  Alle- 
ghany. The  necessity  of  making  cheaper  iron  is  be- 
coming daily  more  imperative  in  the  United  States. 
For  this  end,  to  say  nothing  of  the  carriage  of  timber, 
the  Philipsburg  rail-road  will  be  very  advantageous,  as 
it  will  bring  down  the  coal  to  be  converted  into  coke,  to 
be  used  in  the  smelting  furnaces ;  and  it  will  pass 
through  the  midst  of  the  Juniata  iron  district,  where 
more  than  twenty  forges  and  furnaces  already  exist  in 
full  activity  ;  and  whose  increasing  importance  calls  for 
a  more  adequate  and  expeditious  mode  of  conveyance 
than  it  at  present  commands.  The  whole  country  will 
be  much  benefited  ;  and  independently  of  the  real  and 
lasting  advantages  to  be  gained  by  the  construction  of 
the  Philipsburg  rail-road,  an  early  attention  to  the  plan, 
from  the  proper  quarter,  will  be  but  justice  to  the  exer- 
tions of  a  gentleman,  who,  with  his  brothers  before  him, 
has  devoted  time  and  capital  to  the  enterprise,  and  has 
called  into  existence  a  highly  respectable  community, 


IN    AMERICA.  39 

and  the  most  thriving  and  useful  settlement  in  the  back 
woods  of  Pennsylvania. 

I  left  Philipsburg,  and  returned  to  Belfont,  whence  I 
took  the  road  to  Northumberland.  In  about  six  hours  I 
again  came  in  sight  of  the  Susquehanna,  flowing  through 
an  extensive  valley,  with  its  lofty  southern  bank  robed  to 
the  very  summit  by  a  covert  so  thickly  interwoven  as 
to  be  absolutely  impassable.  I  proceeded  down  the  side 
of  the  river  till  I  arrived  at  the  ferry  at  Dunnsburg. 
Here  I  met  with  a  piece  of  singular  incivility  and  im- 
pudence. The  insolent  young  Charon  allowed  me  to 
place  my  luggage  in  his  leaky  bark ;  but  as  I  was  pro- 
ceeding to  take  my  seat,  he  "  calkilated,"  with  the  most 
disagreeable  twang  (at  least  I  thought  so)  that  I  had 
yet  heard,  "  that  I  must  pay  him  a  fip  (five-penny  bit) 
before  I  put  my  foot  into  his  boat."  It  was  all  in  vain 
that  I  pointed  to  my  portmanteau,  intimating  that  it 
would  be  "  assets"  for  the  payment  of  my  passage  to  the 
other  side.  Nothing  would  satisfy  him  but  my  fip  be- 
forehand ;  and  I  was  obliged  to  pay  it.  It  appeared  that 
some  stage-passengers  had  gone  off  without  paying,  and 
he  did  not  wish  to  be  cheated  a  second  time.  The  guard 
who  arrived  with  the  mail,  was  so  enraged  at  his  con- 
duct, that  he  actually  took  out  one  of  the  horses,  crammed 
him  through  the  river,  and  arrived  safely  on  the  other 
side  with  the  letter-bags. 

Within  a  mile  or  two  of  Dunnsburg,  are  some  Indian 
tumuli ;  but  I  did  not  stop  to  see  them.  I  travelled  on- 
ward through  a  most  delightful  country,  abounding  in 
black-oak  ;  the  bark  of  which  is  sent  down  the  river, 
and  shipped  off  in  great  quantities  for  England,  where  it 
is  used  in  dying.  I  enjoyed  a  very  fine  view  from 
the  hill  over  which  the  road  passes  near  Moncey ; 
but  I  afterwards  saw  the  same  prospect  to  much  greater 
advantage  from  Northumberland.  This  place  contains 
about  two  thousand  inhabitants,  and  is  most  delightfully 
situated  on  the  neck  of  land  that  separates  the  northern 
and  western  branches  of  the  Susquehanna.  The  cele- 
brated Dr.  Priestley  spent  the  latter  years  of  his  life  in 
this  place.  He  died  about  twenty -five  years  ago.  I  was 
assured  by  an  old  and  intimate  friend  of  his,  who  was 
with  him  but  a  few  months  before  he  died,  that  there 
was  great  foundation  for  a  prevalent  belief,  that  for  some 
months  previously  to  his  death,  he  changed  his  opinion* 
in  favour  of  the  divinity  of  Christ. 


40  SIX  MONTHS 

Good  land,  in  a  state  of  cultivation,  is  worth  twenty, 
thirty,  forty,  or  even  a  hundred  dollars  the  acre,  in  this 
part  of  the  country.  The  average  profit  of  land  amounts 
to  twelve  and  a  half  per  cent.  Thirty  bushels  of  wheat  is 
a  good  crop.  The  wages  of  the  married  labourer  are 
fifteen  dollars  a  month  (the  United  States  dollar  is  equal 
to  4*.  6rf.)  Single  men,  who  board  at  the  house  of  their 
employer,  receive  but  ten.  Where  I  made  inquiry,  I 
found  the  rate  of  labourers'  wages  to  be  much  the  same 
throughout  the  States. 

I  crossed  the  western  branch  of  the  Susquehanna  by 
a  new  and  handsome  wooden  bridge,  built  as  usual  on 
stone  piers.  Its  length  was  1316  feet,  and  it  cost  70,000 
dollars.  I  then  immediately  ascended  the  heights  on 
the  other  side.  From  them  I  had  a  full  view  of  both 
branches  of  this  "  shining  river,"  an  appellation 
which  none  deserves  better  than  the  Susquehanna.  I 
preferred  the  scenery  around  Moncey  to  that  in  the  di- 
rection of  Wyoming.  The  sun  was  declining  behind 
the  precipice  on  which  I  stood,  which  was  thrown  more 
and  more  into  shade,  as  the  red  rays  glanced  through 
the  pines  on  its  summit,  and  swept  downward  into  the 
broad  and  beautiful  valley  beneath  me.  The  windings 
of  the  river  were  visible  to  a  great  distance.  Although 
considerably  larger,  it  strongly  reminded  me  of  the 
Thames  seen  from  Richmond-hill.  Its  tranquil  lake-like 
stream  meandered  through  the  country,  encircling  seve- 
ral islands  :  at  one  time  gliding  in  silence  through  the 
forest,  or  emerging  to  roll  its  waters  over  a  rich  and  ex- 
tensive  meadow,  it  freshened  every  thing  in  its  course  ; 
and  when  it  had  fully  performed  the  task  of  ornament 
and  usefulness  allotted  to  it  by  nature,  it  seemed  to  lose 
itself  through  a  gap  in  the  Blue  Mountains,  from  which 
in  reality  it  issued. 

Beautiful  as  it  is,  yet,  were  this  England,  I  could  not 
help  thinking,  how  different  would  be  the  appearance  of 
the  country !  I  am  gazing  on  a  view,  as  splendid  as 
any  one  of  the  same  character  I  ever  beheld  in  any 
land, — I  see  before  me  a  noble  river,  winding  its  way 
through  an  exquisite  landscape,  of  hill  and  dale,  and 
wood  and  verdure,  abounding  in  every  resource  that 
could  make  a  country  life  agreeable ;  but  it  is  in  vain 
that  my  disappointed  eye  roves  over  the  scene,  and  rests 
on  the  most  magnificent  situations  for  park  and  palace  : 
where,  thought  I,  are  the  "  stately  homes  of  England  ?" 


IAI  AMERICA.  41 

—where  is  the  marble-fronted  hall,  and  the  village  church 
beside  it,  with  its  spire  pointing-  to  the  heavens  ?  The 
powerless  genius  of  embellishment  wanders  disconsolate 
along  the  beautiful  banks  of  the  Susquehanna,  and  bit- 
terly  complains  that  he  is  fettered  by  the  spirit  ofcl  emo- 
cracy. 

I  am  far  from  meaning  to  infer  in  the  above  passage, 
that  there  is  any  lack  of  churches  in  the  United  States. 
On  the  contrary,  they  are  numerous.  As  an  English- 
man, I  am  here  speaking  merely  with  reference  to  situa- 
tion, and  the  association  of  ideas  excited  in  my  mind. 

The  Americans,  in  general,  are  not  fond  of  compari- 
sons between  England  and  their  own  country,  except  in 
cases  where  the  balance  is  in  their  favour ;  but  still,  I 
have  often  observed  that  there  is  no  subject  of  conversa- 
tion more  gladly  discussed  by  an  American  gentleman, 
and  more  particularly  by  those  who  have  countcy  houses 
of  their  own,  than  the  splendour  of  the  seats  of  our  no- 
bility and  gentry,  and  the  perfection  of  society  which  is 
enjoyed  at  them.  There  is  nothing  in  England  so  apt 
to  elicit  from  them  a  remark  of  honest  regret,  as  their 
knowledge  of  the  very  remote  probability,  I  may  almost 
add,  the  utter  hopelessness,  of  their  ever  being  able  to 
boast  of  seats  and  villas  at  all  equal  to  those  on  this  side 
of  the  Atlantic,  so  long  as  the  present  form  of  govern- 
ment exists  in  full  force.  Who  would  build  a  really 
splendid  mansion,  which,  after  his  death,  will  probably 
become  a  ruin,  or  be  sold,  and  converted  into  an  hospi- 
tal ?  or  who  would  clear  and  beautify  a  park  of  any  ex- 
tent, to  be  divided  and  ploughed  up  by  his  needy  succes- 
sors ?  I  have  seen  country  houses  in  America,  whose 
delightful  situation,  arid  gentlemanly  appearance,  (although 
it  must  bs  allowed,  they  often  look  their  best  at  a  dis- 
tance,) only  serve  to  render  the  prospect  of  division  the 
more  melancholy.  I  have  been  kindly  received  at  many 
of  them  :  I  have  usually  noticed  a  due  attention  to  com- 
fort and  elegance,  and  invariably  to  kindness  and  hos- 
pitality ;  but  I  have  not  been  able  to  avoid  a  remark,  that 
there  did  not  appear  to  be  much  difference  in  the  size  of 
the  houses,  or  the  extent  of  the  grounds,  as  if  there  ex- 
isted a  general  and  mournful  acknowledgment,  that  a 
just  medium  was  to  be  observed  between  the  expense  in- 
curred  with  reference  to  present  enjoyment,  and  the  pro- 
bability of  an  ultimate  loss  of  capital,  when  the  future 
4* 


42  SIX  MONTHS 

was  regarded.  I  could  name  a  few,  but  very  few,  ex- 
ceptions. 

Whatever  the  Americans  may  think  of  their  institu- 
tions in  other  respects,  there  are  many  sensible  Ameri- 
cans— and  I  have  met  with  them — who  will  acknowledge 
the  inefficacy  of  these  to  counteract  the  disadvantages, 
not  to  say  miseries,  sometimes  arising  from  the  non-ex- 
istence of  the  law  of  primogeniture.  The  object  is,  to 
exclude  the  preponderance  of  wealth,  because  it  tends  to 
generate  an  aristocracy  of  political  power.  The  non- 
existence  of  the  law  of  primogeniture  is,  I  think,  with 
great  deference,  but  lamely  defended  by  Chancellor  Kent, 
in  his  admirable  Commentaries  on  American  Law,  and 
which,  by  the  way,  are  most  richly  deserving  of  a  place 
in  every  library,  if  it  be  merely  on  account  of  the  learn- 
ed dissertations  on  the  history  of  every  republic  of  note 
that  has  ever  existed.  He  quotes  Adam  Smith  in  sup- 
port of  his  opinions  ;  the  Marquess  Garnier,  his  French 
translator  ;  and  the  Baron  de  Stacl  Plolstein, — and  al- 
though he  acknowledges  the  attendant  evils,  yet  he  says 
it  would  be  an  error  to  suppose  that  they  have  been  al- 
ready felt.  But  surely  there  are  some  which  he  does 
not  contemplate  in  his  work ;  but  which  must  be  ac- 
knowledged to  have  a  miserable  effect  upon  the  state  of 
society.  A  sale,  not  unattended  with  sacrifice,  takes 
place  at  the  decease  of  nearly  every  person  who  dies  in 
possession  of  landed  property.  This  is  followed  by  a 
minute  division  of  the  proceeds  amongst  the  next  of  kin. 
As  to  the  law  of  dower,  it  is  much  the  same  as  that  of 
England  generally ;  but  where  the  sale  has  been  made, 
the  produce  is  considered  as  real  estate  so  far,  and  the 
widow  receives  an  annuity  from  one  third  in  lieu  of  her 
dower.  This  does  not  effect  the  distribution  of  the  re- 
mainder, which  is  divided  as  in  England.  It  often  hap- 
pens, that  the  share  of  each  person,  if  young,  is  just 
enough  to  purchase  his  destruction. 

Very  freqaently,  but  in  some  States  more  than  others, 
its  most  prominent  application  is  detected  by  the  effects 
of  a  vicious  indulgence  in  ardent  spirits,  principally 
among  the  second  and  lower  classes.  Drunkenness  still 
prevails  to  an  alarming  extent,  notwithstanding  the  be- 
nign presence  of  the  temperate  societies.  I  have  heard 
the  most  melancholy  and  appalling  accounts  of  its  rava- 
ges in  private  life ;  and  in  one  place  I  was  informed  of 
its  disgusting  influence  over  judicial  morality.  The  roof 


IN    AMERICA.  43 

of  the  evil  is  in  the  expectations  which  are  formed  :  it 
is  the  certainty  of  actual  possession  of  property  at  a 
future  time,  accompanied  by  ignorance  as  to  its  amount, 
that  so  often  cherishes  in  the  children  the  most  dissolute 
habits  of  idleness,  with  all  their  attendant  evils.  Sup- 
posing both  of  them  in  the  same  easy  circumstances  as 
country  gentlemen,  and  fathers  of  families,  how  different 
must  of  necessity  be  the  sentiments  of  every  American 
and  an  Englishman,  when  they  survey  their  respective 
fire-sides  !  Both  see  around  them  their  wives  and  chil- 
dren, in  the  possession  of  affluence  and  comfort,  and 
happy  in  the  enjoyment  of  each  other's  society.  But  in 
the  event  of  his  death,  how  gloomy  may  be  the  picture 
drawn  by  the  one,  in  opposition  to  the  one  contemplated 
by  the  other  !  A  divided  estate  and  a  dispersed  family, 
present  themselves  to  the  mind  of  the  American ;  or 
perhaps  a  small  part  of  them  living  together,  but  unable 
to  command  any  share  of  the  luxuries,  and  not  many  of 
the  comforts  they  enjoy  during  his  lifetime,  in  conse- 
quence of  a  secession  of  property  by  marriage*  or  de- 
crease of  it  from  dissipation.  The  Englishman  feels  a 
debt  of  gratitude  to  the  constitution  of  his  country :  in 
the  event  of  his  death,  his  house,  in  the  possession  of  his 
eldest  son,  will  be  a  home  for  his  widow  and  a  place  of 
meeting  for  his  children.  His  younger  sons  have  been 
brought  up  under  the  idea  that  they  are  to  be  the  archi- 
tects of  their  own  fortunes,  and  such  a  doctrine  has  not 
rendered  them  unhappy,  because  it  has  enforced  the  vir- 
tue of  contentment.  The  law  of  primogeniture  perpe- 
tuates, through  the  eldest  son,  a  species  of  parental  af- 
fection and  authority ;  and  where  there  is  a  title  to  de- 
scend, there  is  a  further  inducement  to  the  eldest  son  to 
emulate  the  virtues  or  the  actions  of  an  illustrious  fa- 
ther ;  or,  if  that  father  has  brought  disgrace  upon  a  dis- 
tinguished name,  or  sullied  the  escutcheon  of  a  distin- 
guished family  (which,  be  it  added,  is  sometimes  the 
case,)  the  son  may  be  naturally  desirous  of  wiping  away 
the  stain,  and  of  giving  the  benefit  of  his  example  to 
society,  by  his  imitation  of  the  character  of  a  noble  an- 
cestor. There  is  yet  a  further  deficiency  of  inducement 
to  exertion  existing  in  the  American,  and  in  every  other 
democracy.  In  England,  a  young  man  in  the  enjoy- 
ment of  a  sufficient  income,  and  who  is  consequently 
not  obliged  to  labour  at  any  profession  with  a  view  to 
its  increase,  yet  with  the  possibility  of  obtaining  a  title, 


44  SIX  MONTHS 

will  exert  his  abilities  to  the  utmost;  but  in  America, 
the  stimulus  of  titled  distinction  being  unknown,  it  must 
often  happen  that  the  finest  talents  are  doomed  to  remain 
unemployed. 

I  crossed  the  north  branch  of  the  Susquehanna,  and 
passed  on  to  the  town  of  Sunbury,  on  the  bank  of  the 
main  river,  and  about  two  miles  distant  from  Northum- 
berland. Sunbury  is  a  very  pretty  country  town,  with 
a  delightful  promenade  along  the  side  of  the  river.  In 
all  parts  of  the  vicinity  there  are  some  beautiful  pros- 
pects :  near  it,  a  very  large  dam  has  been  thrown  across 
the  stream,  where,  by  the  junction  of  its  two  branches, 
it  spreads  out,  and  forms  a  basin  three  quarters  of  a 
mile  across.  I  observed  some  fishermen  hauling  their 
nets,  and  went  up  to  them.  They  had  taken  some  cat- 
fish, and  several  salmon.  The  cat-fish  has  obtained  its 
name  from  its  appearance  :  its  head,  which  is  out  of  all 
proportion  to  its  body,  is  large  and  round,  with  the  addi- 
tion of  two  worm-like  appendages  projecting  beneath 
the  eyes,  like  the  whiskers  of  a  cat.  It  is  altogether  a 
dark,  ugly-looking  fish ;  but  is  eatable,  with  a  flavour 
something  like  that  of  an  eel,  but  inferior.  In  the  lar- 
ger western  rivers  it  sometimes  attains  a  weight  ef 
eighty  or  one  hundred  pounds.  The  fish,  improperly 
called  the  salmon,  in  no  respects  resembles  the  real  sal- 
mon of  Great  Britain.  It  has  none  of  the  peculiarities 
of  the  salmo  genus  ;  and  does  not  rise  at  a  fly.  In  figure 
it  is  not  remarkable  ;  in  colour  it  is  more  similar  to  the 
pike  than  to  any  fish  I  am  acquainted  with-  The  weight 
of  those  usually  taken,  is  about  a  pound  ;  but  some  of 
them  are  larger.  A  fly-fisher  would  have  but  moderate 
sport  on  the  Susquehanna;  but  he  might  kill  a  great  va- 
riety of  fish,  if  he  condescended  to  use  a  bait,  and  might 
occasionally  take  a  large  trout  with  a  minnow.  The 
river  contains  pike  and  eels,  of  immense  size  ;  trout,  not 
numerous ;  rock-fish,  cat-fish,  suckers,  common  and  sil- 
ver perch — a  beautiful  fish ;  and  a  very  small  species  of 
lamprey,  that  is  only  used  as  a  bait.  The  shad  is  also 
found  in  great  quantities  in  this  and  almost  all  the  rivers 
of  the  eastern  states.  It  is  excellent  eating,  and  usually 
weighs  about  four  pounds  ;  but  I  thought  the  flavour  of 
the  Susquehanna  salmon  equal,  if  not  superior,  to  any 
fish  in  the  United  States.  I  should  almost  presume 
that  it  was  peculiar  to  that  river,  as  I  have  fre- 
quently met  with  natives  of  .other  States  who  have  never 
heard  of  it. 


IN  AMERICA.  45 

At  Sunbury,  I  chanced  to  be  told  that  three  York- 
shiremen  had  just  been  taken  up.  I  would  bet  three 
to  one,  said  I  to  myself,  that  their  crime  is  horse-steal- 
ing !  and  so  it  proved  when  I  made  inquiry. 

I  here  turned  my  steps  away  from  the  Susquehanna, 
which  for  placid  beauty  surpassed,  in  my  opinion,  any 
other  river  in  the  States,  and  proceeded  towards  Philadel- 
phia, by  way  of  Pottsville  and  Reading.  Scarcely  more 
than  a  year  ago  there  were  but  a  few  houses  at  the  former 
place;  but  in  consequence  of  the  immediate  vicinity  of 
enormous  beds  of  anthracite  coal?  and  the  improved 
means  of  conveyance  to  Philadelphia,  its  size  and  im- 
portance had  increased  in  a  most  extraordinary  manner. 

The  country  around  Philadelphia  is  very  flat ;  so  that 
I  could  not  find  a  rising  ground  to  take  a  sketch  from, 
at  what  I  considered  the  best  distance.  But,  I  think, 
in  passing  down  the  river,  in  my  way  to  Baltimore,  I 
perceived  a  small  cliff  on  the  left  bank,  that  would  have 
answered  the  purpose,  being  distant  about  two  miles 
and  a  half.  A  view  in  a  flat  country  requires  great  mi- 
nuteness, if  it  be  taken  correctly,  and  would  have  occu- 
pied too  much  time ;  besides,  before  commencing  a 
drawing  of  either  of  the  larger  cities  in  the  Union,  it 
really  became  a  matter  of  consideration,  that  I  had  but 
one  cake  of"  Newman's  light  red  "  in  my  colour-box. 

A  fine  steamer  carried  me  down  the  Delaware. 
About  thirty-five  miles  from  Philadelphia,  we  passed 
Wilmington  and  Brandywine.  We  were  then  landed 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Chesapeake  and  Delaware  canal, 
and  were  towed  onward,  at  a  brisk  trot,  in  one  of  the 
canal  boats,  and  soon  entered  the  Elk  river,  near  the 
head  waters  of  Chesapeake  bay.  The  country  was  flat ; 
and  a  great  proportion  of  it  was  covered  with  forest. 
Here  we  went  on  board  another  steam-boat,  that  rat- 
tled us  along  at  a  tremendous  pace  down  the  Chesa- 
peake, passing  the  mouth  of  the  Susquehanna.  The 
captain  assured  me  that  upon  one  occasion,  during  a 
camp-meeting,  he  had  carried  no  less  than  fifteen  hun- 
dred persons  at  a  time;  he  landed  them  during  the 
night,  and  about  two  hundred  got  away  without  paying 
their  passage. 

In  an  hour  or  two,  the  North  Point,  at  the  entrance  of 
the  Patapsco  river,  became  visible.  General  Ross  land- 
ed here,  with  the  British  force  of  5000  men,  on  the  12th 
of  September,  1814,  and  met  his  death  in  the  skirmish 


46  8IX    MONTHS 

that  ensued  shortly  afterwards.  I  rode  from  Baltimore 
to  the  spot  where  he  fell,  marked  by  a  small  plain  stone 
monument,  by  the  side  of  the  road.  The  last  four  miles 
out  of  fourteen  lay  through  a  very  pretty  wood,  afford- 
ing a  most  grateful  shade.  When  ws  were  within  two 
miles  from  the  city,  we  passed  Fort  Mac  Henry,  which 
was  bombarded  upon  the  same  occasion,  almost  from 
the  extremity  of  the  range  of  a  shell.  Some  of  them, 
where  they  fell,  penetrated  the  ground  to  a  depth  of  five 
or  six  feet. 

Baltimore,  when  viewed  from  the  Chesapeake,  ap- 
pears to  be  built  over  several  low  hills,  or  slopes,  and 
surrounded  by  others  that  are  considerably  higher. 
Its  situation  is  much  finer  than  that  of  Philadelphia. . 
It  is  not  so  fine  as  that  of  New  York  ;  but  in  some  re- 
spects, is,  I  think,  superior  to  Boston.  When  ap- 
proached by  water,  the  most  conspicuous  objects  are — 
Washington's  monument,  the  shot-towers,  the  Roman 
Catholic  cathedral,  and  the  Unitarian  church,  all  scat- 
tered in  different  parts  of  the  city.  Washington's 
monument  is  a  plain  column  of  marble,  raised  on  a 
square  base,  175  feet  in  height,  and  surmounted  by  a 
colossal  statue  of  Washington.  It  is  seen  from  a  great 
distance  on  every  side,  and  commands  the  finest  and 
most  extensive  prospect ;  but  I  am  very  much  inclined 
to  doubt  ihe  taste  that  placed  any  other  than  an  alle- 
gorical object  on  the  top  of  a  lofty  pillar.  The  size  of 
the  column,  and  its  simplicity,  are  calculated  to  excite 
admiration;  but  in  my  humble  judgment,  it  would 
have  been  much  belter  to  have  had  a  really  fine 
statue  placed  inside  the  base  of  the  column,  than  to 
perch  the  general  upon  a  height  that  would  make  a 
living  admiral  feel  giddy.  Lord  Hill's  monument, 
near  Shrewsbury,  and  that  to  the  memory  of  General 
Brock,  at  Queenstown,  are,  I  think,  objectionable,  for 
the  same  reasons.  The  battle  monument  is  much 
prettier,  although  it  is  somewhat  florid  in  its  orna- 
ments: it  is  fifty-four  feet  in  height.  The  column  is 
a  circular  fasces,  symbolical  of  the  Union,  twined 
round  with  fillets,  bearing  the  names  of  those  who  fell 
on  the  12th  and  13th  of  September,  1814;  and  sup- 
porting an  allegorical  statue  of  a  female,  personifying 
the  city  of  Baltimore,  with  a  bald  eagle,  the  United 
States'  emblem,  at  her  side.  The  Archbishop  of  Ma- 
ryland is  the  Metropolitan  of  the  States.  The  Calho- 


IN  AMERICA.  47 

lie  cathedral  is  a  handsome  building,  with  a  dome  in 
imitation  of  the  Pantheon.  The  inside,  which  is  di- 
vided into  pews,  contains  two  very  good  pictures  from 
the  French  school :  a  descent  from  the  cross,  by  Paul 
Guerin,  presented  by  Louis  XVI. ;  and  St.  Louis  bury- 
ing his  dead  officers  and  soldiers  before  Tunis,  by 
Steuben,  presented  by  Charles  X.  The  descent  from 
the  cross  is  much  and  deservedly  admired.  It  has  the 
merit  of  being  free  from  that  tedious  detail  that  is 
usually  to  be  observed  in  the  works  of  French  artists, 
who  paint  every  thing  as  it  is,  and  not  as  it  appears. 
It  occurred  to  me,  that  the  body  of  Christ  did  not  suf- 
ficiently rest  on  the  ground,  as  intended.  The  latter 
picture  displays  more  of  the  French  taste.  I  did  not 
like  it  so  well,  but  many  prefer  it  to  the  other.  At 
Baltimore,  is  the  University  of  Maryland,  which 
ranks  very  high  as  a  medical  school.  The  average 
expenses  of  a  student  are  one  hundred  and  twenty 
dollars  per  annum.  It  has  also  professors  in  law  and 
divinity.  St.  Mary's  College  and  Baltimore  College 
are  also  justly  celebrated  throughout  the  Union  ;  the 
Intter  will  accomodate  one  hundred  and  fifty  students, 
who  are  instructed,  by  twelve  professors,  in  the  an- 
cient  and  modern  languages,  mathematics,  natural 
philosophy,,  &c.  The  city  also  contains  a  good  mu- 
seum, which  I  did,  and  many  more  public  buildings, 
which  I  did  not  visit,  as  I  could  not  learn  that  there 
was  any  thing  in  them  particularly  deserving  of  atten- 
tion. The  theatre  was  not  open. 

The  waters  of  the  Chesapeake  and  the  Patapsco  are 
the  favourite  resort  of  the  canvas-back  duck,  which  I 
had  always  been  told  was  the  greatest  delicacy  ima- 
ginable ;  and,  "  like  nothing  else,  sir !  I  assure  ye  !" 
The  sporting  commences  early  in  November,  and  af- 
fords most  excellent  sport.  An  experienced  shot  will 
sometimes  kill  three  dozen  in  a  morning  with  a  single 
gun  ;  and  occasionally  they  are  shot  on  the  wing  with  a 
single  rifle.  The  canvas-back  duck  very  much  resembles 
the  red-headed  wigeon,  or  common  dun-bird.  Lucien 
Bonaparte,  who  has  so  well  continued  Wilson's  work  on 
American  Ornithology,  has  successfully  shown  that  it 
is  quite  a  different  bird.  It  is  about  half  as  large 
again,  with  a  black  and  different  formed  bill  and  black 
leg-s.  Those  of  the  rod-headed  wigeon  are  of  a  dark 


48  SIX    MONTHS 

lead  colour.  They  breed  on  the  borders  of  the  great 
lakes,  or  about  Hudson's  Bay;  but  in  the  winter 
months,  they  are  found  in  prodigious  quantities  on  the 
Chesapeake,  the  Patapsco,  and  the  Potomac.  Its  fla- 
vour is  owing  to  the  root  of  the  Vallissneria  America- 
na, or  wild  celery,  on  which  it  feeds,  and  for  which  it 
will  dive  to  a  depth  of  eight  or  ten  feet.  The  red- 
headed wigeon,  when  in  company  with  the  canvas- 
back,  will  often  wait  till  it  has  risen  from  the  bottom, 
and  then  snatch  from  it  the  hard-earned  morsel.  The 
bons  vivants  of  America  talk  of  the  canvas-back  with 
an  interest  that  borders  on  affectation,  and  is  sometimes 
very  amusing.  "  Sir,"  said  an  old  fellow  to  me,  "  I 
wished  to  give  a  duck  feast,  and  accordingly  I  bought 
nine  couple  of  them,  all  fresh  killed,  and  all  of  the 
right  weight.  I  stuffed  them  into  every  corner  of  my 
gig  ;  and  would  not  suffer  the  cook  to  touch  them,  ex- 
cept in  my  presence.  I  dressed  them  all  myself,  in  dif- 
ferent ways,  in  my  parlour,  so  as  to  have  them  all 
done  according  to  figure,  sir  !  Well,  sir  !  all  my  com- 
pany had  arrived,  except  an  old  German ;  we  could  not 
wait,  and  sat  down  without  him.  When  he  came,  he 
exclaimed,  '  What !  noshing  but  duckhs !'  I  started 
up  in  a  rage,  sir!  a  violent  rage,  sir!  *  Noshing  but 

duckhs!'  I  repeated  after  him  :     Why,  you  d d  old 

scoundrel,  said  I,  your  own  Emperor  of  Austria  never 
had  such  a  dinner:  he  could  hot,  sir,  though  he  gave 
the  best  jewel  in  his  crown  for  it."  I  tasted  these 
birds  several  times  before  I  quitted  America,  and  they 
certainly  are  extremely  good.  The  meat  is  dark,  and 
should  be  sent  to  table  under-done,  or  what  in  Ameri- 
ca is  called  "  rare."  I  think  the  flavour  might  be 
imitated  by  a  piece  of  common  wild  duck,  and  a  piece 
of  fine  juicy  venison,  tasted  at  the  same  time.  The 
word  "  rare"  used  in  that  sense,  and  which  is  given  by 
Johnson,  on  the  authority  of  Dryden,  is  no  doubt  one 
of  many  which  have  retained  in  America,  a  meaning 
in  which  they  are  not  now  used  in  England,  but  which 
was  doubtless  carried  over  the  Atlantic  by  the  settlers 
of  a  hundred  years  ago.  I  confess  that  I  was  for 
some  time  in  error.  I  heard  every  one  around  me 
giving  orders  that  his  meat  should  be  "  rare,"  and  I 
thought  it  a  mispronunciation  of  the  word  raw. 

The  environs  of  Baltimore  are  exceedingly  pretty  : 
almost  every  eminence  is  crowned    with  a   country 


IN    AMERICA.  49 

house,  surrounded  by  gardens  and  pleasure  grounds 
richly  wooded,  and  laid  out  to  the  best  advantage,  so 
as  generally  to  afford  a  peep  through  the  trees  at  some 
part  of  the  Patapsco,  or  the  Chesapeake.  They  are 
admirably  adapted  for  a  fete  champetre.  or  a  straw- 
berry party,  as  it  is  called  at  Baltimore.  I  had  the 
honour  of  an  invitation  to  the  only  one  that  was  given 
during  my  stay  in  that  city.  The  company  assembled 
about  six  o'clock.  Quadrilles  and  waltzes  were  kept 
up  with  great  spiiit,  first  on  the  lawn,  and  then  in  the 
house  till  about  eleven.  In  the  mean  time  strawber- 
ries and  cream,  ices,  pine  apples,  and  champagne, 
were  served  up  in  the  greatest  profusion.  I  had  un- 
derstood, and  am  quite  ready  to  admit,  that  Balti- 
more deservedly  enjoys  a  high  reputation  for  female 
beauty.  I  am  speaking  of  the  American  ladies  in 
general,  when  I  remark  that  it  is  no  injustice  to  them 
to  maintain,  that  where  you  will  see  twenty  pretty 

firls,  you  will  not  see  one  really  handsome  woman, 
have  frequently  observed  the  prettiest  features,— 
such  as  more  reminded  me  of  England,  than  of  any 
other  country ;  but  I  think  that  most  Europeans  who 
have  formed  a  correct  taste  from  the  "stone  ideal"  of 
Greece,  would  agree  with  me  that  ladies  with  preten- 
sions to  that  higher  degree  of  beauty,  are  not  so  often 
to  be  met  with  in  America  as  in  England.  There  is 
one  particular  in  which  they  would  do  well  to  imitate 
iny  fair  countrywomen.  They  have  great  charms  for 
the  breakfast  table;  but  yet,  elegant  and  lady-like  as 
many  of  them  undoubtedly  are,  how  often  have  I 
been  compelled  to  wish,  that  the  breakfast  table  had 
not  quite  go  many  charms  for  them.  They  must  know 
that  to  eat  is  unfeminine ;  and  that  ladies  should  in 
the  presence  of  gentlemen,  appear  very  hungry,  is  a 
decided  proof  of  a  deficiency  in  national  manners, — 
just  as  much,  or  even  more  so,  than  that  men,  be  they 
who  or  what  they  may,  should  sit  with  their  hats  on 
in  the  dress  circle  at  New  York.  The  influence  of  a 
court  would  extend  to  and  would  remedy  all  this.  I 
should  here  again  remark,  that  the  first  society  is  sel- 
dom seen  at  the  theatre,  and  would  not  be  guilty  of 
such  behaviour. 

It  is  a  matter  of  great  surprise  to  a  stranger,  that 
there  is  not  one  single  promenade  at  Baltimore.  There 
5 


50  SIX    MONTHS 

are  some  very  eligible  situations  immediately  adjoin, 
ing  the  city,  and  which  to  all  appearance  are  so  easily 
convertible  into  a  public  walk,  that  it  is  difficult  to  un- 
derstand why  the  ladies  do  not  insist  upon  its  com- 
mencement. I  would  most  humbly  advise  them  to 
do  so. 

I  was  honoured  with  an  invitation  to  "  the  Manor,'* 
the  country  residence  of  Mr.  Carroll,  of  Carrollton. 
The  house  was  built  long  before  the  revolution,  and  is 
a  curious  specimen  of  Anglo-American  architecture, 
somewhat  resembling  one  of  those  large  old  parson- 
age houses  which  are  to  be  seen  in  some  parts  of  Eng- 
land.    It  stands  in  the  midst  of  an  extensive  domain, 
in  a  high  stale  of  cultivation,  and  extremely  well  and 
neatly  kept,  considering  that  it  is  worked   by  slaves. 
1  could  have  fancied  myself  in  England,  but  for  the 
loose  zigzag  fences  of  split  logs,  which  offer  to  the  eye 
but   a    poor    apology   for    the    English    hedge    row. 
Hedges  of  any  kind   would  not,  generally  speaking, 
thrive  well  in  the  United  States.     It  would  be  neces- 
sary, I  was  told,  that  they  should  be  banked  up,  in  or- 
der to  keep  them  from    being  washed  away  by  the 
heavy  rains;  and  it  is  probable  that  during  the  ex-, 
treme  heat  of  the  summer  months,  they  could  not  ob- 
tain moisture  sufficient  to  preserve  them  from  being 
dried  up   entirely.     They  are,  however,  often  to  be 
seen  close  to  a  gentleman's  house,  where  they  can  be 
constantly  attended   to.     I  should  conceive  that  the 
aloe  hedges  of  Spain  and  Portugal  might  succeed  in 
the  United  States.     It  it  neither  a  fault,  nor  a  misfor- 
tune, that  there  is  no  water  scenery  at  "  the  Manor." 
The  rivers  and  lakes  of  America  are  usually  on  a  vast 
and  magnificent  scale,  fitted  either  to  bound   or   to 
deluge  a  continent;  small  streams  are  also  common; 
but  a  lake  ibr  instance  of  a  mile  or  two  in   length,  is 
seldom  to  be  seen,  excepting  in  New  England,  where 
they  are  plentiful.     Before  I  arrived  there,  I  do  not 
think  that  I  had  seen  more  than  half  a  dozen  ponds, 
and  those  all  in  Kentucky.     Instead  of  being  thought 
an  advantage,  a  piece  of  water  is  avoided ;  no  Ameri- 
can, from  choice,  would  build  on  its  banks,  as  the  ex- 
halations in  the  hot  weather  render  such  a  situation 
very  unhealthy,  excepting  in  the  more  northerly  states. 
At  the  manor  I  partook  of  that  hospitality  which  is 


IN  AMERICA.  51 

so  kindly  and  universally  extended  to  every  foreigner 
who  visits  Baltimore  with  a  proper  letter  of  introduc- 
tion. Mr.  Carroll  himself  is  the  most  extraordinary  in- 
dividual in  America.  This  venerable  old  gentleman  is 
in  his  ninety-fifth  year,  is  exceedingly  cheerful,  enjoys 
most  excellent  health,  and  is  in  good  possession  of  his 
faculties.  He  is  the  only  survivor  of  the  patriots  who 
signed  the  Declaration  of  Independence  on  the  4th  of 
July,  1776.  He  has  always  adhered  to  the  federal 
principles,  and  his  valuable  estate  is  one  of  the  very 
few  that  have  descended  in  a  direct  line  from  the  first 
possessor.  Mr.  Carroll  is  the  grandfather  of  the  Ladies 
Wellesley  and  Caermarthen. 

No  one  who  visits  Baltimore  should  omit  seeing  the 
vessels  known  by  the  name  of  clippers.  They  are  un- 
commonly neat  single-decked  schooners  usually,  but 
sometimes  are  rigged  like  a  brig.  Their  burden  is  com- 
monly  about  200  tons.  They  are  cut  remarkably  sharp 
at  the  bows,  yv'ith  a  great  breadth  of  beam.  When  ly- 
ing in  the  water,  the  head  is  considerably  elevated  above 
the  stern,  so  that  although  the  masts  are  nearly  at  right 
angles  with  the  hull,  they  appear  to  rake  much  more 
than  they  really  do.  They  will  sail  on  a  wind  at  the 
rate  of  seven  knots  an  hour,  when  other  fast  sailing  ves- 
sels can  make  only  five  and  a  half,  or  six ;  but  few  of 
them  are  good  sailers  before  the  wind.  They  usually 
make  a  voyage  to  the  Havanna,  where  they  are  sold 
for  slave  ships,  or  to  South  America,  where  they  are 
bought  by  smugglers  or  pirates,  for  whose  occupations 
they  are  admirably  adapted.  They  are  built  nowhere 
so  well  as  at  Baltimore. 

Two  rail-roads  had  been  commenced  at  Baltimore : 
one  called  the  Baltimore  and  Ohio  rail-road,  because  it 
was  intended  to  join  that  river.  The  exact  line  of  coun- 
try through  which  it  would  pass,  was  as  yet  a  secret  with 
a  select  few,  who  would  thus  be  able  to  secure  from  the 
owners  a  refusal  of  the  land  through  which  it  passed 
without  being  obliged  to  pay  an  increased  price.  The 
other  is  called  the  Susquehanna  rail-road,  and  was  in- 
intended  to  join  that  river  at  York-haven,  about  sixty 
miles  below  Harrisburg.  Deputations  have  been  sent 
from  Baltimore  to  Philadelphia,  to  obtain  the  necessary 
permission  to  carry  it  into  the  state  of  Pennsylvania  ; 
but  their  applications  have  been,  I  was  informed,  twice 
refused.  The  rail-road,  however,  is  still  continued, 


52  SIX  MONTHS 

from  a  well-grounded  persuasion  that  the  inhabitants  of 
the  western  partsof  Pennsylvania,  convinced  of  the  ad- 
vantages that 'will  accrue  to  them  by  its  affording  them 
another  means  of  carriage  for  their  bituminous  coal, 
iron,  and  timber,  will  ultimately  succeed  in  obtaining  a 
majority  in  Congress  in  favour  of  its  completion.  But 
does  not  a  jealousy  of  this  kind  arise,  after  a  contempla- 
tion, however  distant,  of  the  political  horizon  ?  Has  it 
not  a  prospective  reference  to  the  interest  of  the  State 
separately,  when  the  federal  government  shall  be  no 
more? 

By  the  constitution  of  Maryland  the  governor  does 
not  possess  the  right  of  a  veto  over  the  acts  of  the  ge- 
neral assembly. 

More  flour  is  annually  inspected  at  Baltimore,  than 
at  any  other  port  in  the  United  States  excepting  New 
York.  The  amount  for  the  year  1830,  was  597,804 
barrels ;  but  by  the  returns  made  since  the  first  of  Janu- 
ary, 1831,  it  is  supposed  that  the  quantity  in  this  year 
will  exceed  600,000  barrels.  The  wheat  that  is  shipped, 
is  sent  almost  exclusively  to  England ;  but  it  bears  a 
very  small  proportion  to  the  flour,  although  it  sells  bet- 
ter in  the  English  market— about  70,000  bushels  of 
wheat  were  shipped  this  year  for  England.  The  quan- 
tity in  general  is  good,  excepting  that  a  portion  of  it  is 
sometimes  tainted  with  garlick ;  a  nuisance  that  is  al- 
most unavoidable,  because  the  plant  grows  spontaneous- 
ly in  the  wheat  districts.  It  is  said  to  have  been  first 
introduced  by  the  Hessians,  during  the  revolutionary 
war,  and  it  has  since  increased  so  much,  that  it  cannot 
be  got  rid  of.  The  wheat  exported  from  Baltimore  is 
grown  in  the  State  of  Maryland,  and  in  many  parts  of 
Virginia  and  Pennsylvania.  Money  had  been  plentiful 
for  the  last  two  years,  and  investments  that  would  pro- 
duce five  per  cent,  were  not  easily  to  be  met  with.  A 
market  over-stocked  with  imports  from  Europe  and  In- 
dia, was  the  assignable  cause :  trade  was  comparatively 
less  brisk,  and  many  capitalists  withdrew  their  funds 
from  active  business,  for  the  purpose  of  investment  in 
the  stock  of  bank,  insurance,  and  rail-road  companies. 
A  great  quantity  of  money  was  likewise  lying  in  the 
market  in  consequence  of  the  national  debt  being  in  a 
courseof  reduction  by  the  payment  of  government  loans. 
However,  when  I  was  there,  money  was  more  scarce, 
and  worth  more  than  six 'per  cent.;  the  exchange  on 


IN    AMERICA.  53 

England  had  risen  as  high  as  eleven  per  cent.,  and  a 
large  quantity  of  specie  had  been  exported  to  that  coun- 
try. 

At  Baltimore,  I  first  saw  the  fire-fly.  They  begin  to  v 
appear  about  sunset,  after  which  they  are  sparkling  in 
all  directions.  In  some  places  ladies  will  wear  them  in 
their  hair,  and  the  effect  is  said  to  be  very  brilliant. 
Mischievous  boys  will  sometimes  catch  a  bull-frog,  and 
fasten  them  all  over  him.  They  show  to  great  ad'van- 
tage,  while  the  poor  frog,  who  cannot  understand  the 
"  new  lights"  that  are  breaking  upon  him,  affords  amuse- 
ment to  his  tormentors  by  hopping  about  in  a  state  of 
desperation. 

About  thirty  miles  from  Baltimore,  on  the  western 
shore  as  it  is  termed,  stands  Annapolis,  the  capital  of 
Maryland.  It  is  situated  at  the  bottom  of  a  fine  bay,  and 
contains  several  curious  old  houses,  built  long  before  the 
revolution.  The  most  conspicuous  object  is  the  capitol, 
which  is  surmounted  by  a  fine  steeple.  The  general 
assembly  of  Maryland  hold  their  sittings  there,  and  it 
was  there  that  General  Washington  resigned  to  the  fede- 
ral congress  the  command  he  had  so  nobly  used.  Jt  sat 
there  for  some  time  after  the  independence  of  the  United 
States  was  established. 

At  Baltimore,  I  visited  the  studies  of  two  very  promis- 
ing  young  artists:  Mr.  Hubbard,  an  Englishman,  is  cer- 
tainly the  better  paipter;  but  has  the  advantage  of  four 
or  five  years  of  experience  over  Mr.  Miller,  who  is  an 
American,  quite  a  boy  ;  and  whom,  I  think,  at  least  an 
equal  genius.  He  has  had  little  or  no  instruction.  If 
sent  to  Europe,  as  he  certainly  ought  to  be,  I  will  ven- 
ture to  predict,  that  at  some  future  period  he  will  be  an 
ornament  to  his  native  city  ;  and  which  he  certainly 
never  will,  or  can  be,  if  he  does  not  leave  it.  Will  it  be 
credited,  that  in  America,  with  all  her  pretensions  to 
good  sense  and  general  encouragement  of  emulation  and 
enterprise,  the  voice  of  public  opinion  is  a  bar  to  the  ad- 
vantage of  drawing  from  a  living  model  ?  Without  it, 
historical  painting  cannot  thrive,  and  sculpture  must  be 
out  of  the  question. 

I  loft  Baltimore  with  regret:  I  had  been  kindly  and 
hospitably  treated  there, — and  in  a  few  hours  the  mail 
carried  me  to  Washington.  This  city  of  distances — this 
capital  t  bat  is  to  be — is  laid  out  upon  an  open  piece  of 
nndulatin  e  down,  on  the  north  side  of  the  Potomac.  The 


54  SIX  MONTHS 

capitol  of  the  United  States  is  built  upon  the  most  lofty 
part  of  it,  which  is  ascended  by  a  fine  flight  of  steps,  and 
altogether  has  a  very  imposing  appearance,  being  visible 
at  a  great  distance  from  almost  every  side.  It  is  of  free- 
stone, which  is  found  on  the  river  about  thirty  miles  below 
the  city.  In  front  is  a  magnificent  portico  of  Corinthian 
columns,  and  behind  it  there  is  another ;  in  the  same 
style,  (though  larger,)  as  that  at  Wanstead  House  in  Es- 
sex, or  Wentworth  Castle  in  Yorkshire,  which  is  a  copy 
of  Wanstead.  On  the  top  are  three  domes ;  that  in  the 
centre  would  look  a  great  deal  better  if  it  were  deeply 
fluted,-  like  the  dome  of  St.  Paul's;  at  present  it  would 
be  much  better  out  of  the  way,  as  it  gives  a  general  ap- 
pearance of  heaviness,  to  what  would  otherwise  be  deserv- 
edly thought  a  very  fine_building.  From  the  balustrade  is 
obtained  a  delightful  view  of  the  river,  and  the  surround- 
ing country.  The  centre  of  the  interior  of  the  capitol,  is 
occupied  by  a  large  open  space  under  the  dome,  contain- 
ing four  pictures,  that  look  very  well  at  a  little  distance : 
the  subjects  are  the  Signing  of  the  Declaration  of  Inde- 
pendence, the  Surrender  of  General  Burgoyne,  the  Sur- 
render of  Lord  Cornwallis ;  and  General  Washington  re- 
signing his  command  at  Annapolis.  They  are  painted 
by  Col.  Trumbull.  The  remainder  of  the  capitol  is  occu- 
pied by  the  apartments  and  offices  connected  with  the 
senate,  the  house  of  representatives,  and  the  supreme 
court  of  the  United  States.  The  pillars  which  support 
the  roof  of  the  chamber  of  representatives,  are  of  breccia, 
or  pudding-stone ;  perhaps  the  most  singular  formation 
of  the  kind  that  is  to  be  found  anywhere,  not  excepting 
that  at  Monserrat  hi  Spain,  which  is  entirely  composed 
of  breccia.  Fragments  of  granite,  quartz,  limestone,  and 
other  rocks,  have  been  pressed  together  in  the  most  ex- 
traordinary manner,  by  some  stupendous  power,  and 
from  a  little  distance  the  composition  might  be  mistaken 
for  the  verd  antique.  It  is  found  on  the  Potomac,  about 
thirty  miles  above  Washington.  The  president's  house 
is  a  handsome  building,  with  an  Ionic  portico ;  and  the 
only  one  in  the  States  that  resembles  the  modern  residence 
of  a  British  nobleman.  It  is  exactly  at  the  distance  of 
one  mile  and  a  half  in  a  straight  line  from  the  capitol, 
and  the  houses  are  continued  beyond  it  for  nearly  ano- 
ther. Numerous  large  streets  radiate  from  the  capitol 
and  the  president's  house,  as  centres— a  method  of  laying 
out  a  city  far  handsomer  than  that  which  has  been  adopted 


IN   AMERICA.  55 

at  Philadelphia,  where  the  streets  cross  each  other  at  right 
angles.  Who  that  has  seen  the  "  Perspective"  at  Peters- 
burgh,  can  ever  forget  it  ?  where  the  principal  streets  are 
all  pointed  towards  the  beautifully  gilt  steeple  of  the  Ad- 
miralty,  that  is  seen  glittering  at  the  end  of  each  of  them. 
It  must  be  allowed  that  this  arrangement  has  its  disad- 
vantages in  the  shape  of  the  houses,  and  apartments,  one 
end  of  which,  if  they  are  regularly  divided,  must  be  lar- 
ger than  the  other. 

In  the  dock-yard  at  Wasliington,  I  saw  a  sixty -gun 
frigate  in  a  state  of  forwardness,  and  a  small  schooner 
constructed  on  a  plan  that  had  never  been  applied  to  a 
vessel  of  war,  being  of  the  same  shape  fore  and  aft,  and 
having  no  internal  timbers.  The  blocks  made  there,  are 
not  all  of  one  piece,  as  they  are  at  our  dock-yard  at  Ports- 
mouth. A  double  block,  for  instance,  is  composed  of  se- 
ven pieces  of  wood,  exclusively  of  the  sheave.  They  are, 
no  doubt,  much  stronger  when  made  in  this  manner ;  but 
a  man  can  make  but  one  in  half  an  hour. 

The  college  at  Georgetown,  adjoining  the  city,  is  a  Ca- 
tholic establishment ;  its  members  are  Jesuits,  and  who, 
as  usual,  are  increasing  their  influence,  by  purchasing 
lands,  &.c.  Attached  to  the  college,  is  the  nunnery  of 
the  Sisters  of  Visitation,  containing  about  fifty  nuns. 
They  tell  there  of  a  Hohenlohe  miracle. 

Washington,  like  most  of  the  American  cities,  can 
boast  of  several  beautiful  rides  and  walks  in  its  vicinity. 
Arlington,  the  seat  of  George  Washington  P.  Custis,  Esq., 
occupies  a  most  conspicuous  and  commanding  situation, 
on  the  south  bank  of  the  Potomac.  It  is  visible  for  ma- 
ny miles,  and  in  the  distance  has  the  appearance  of  a  su- 
perior English  country  residence,  beyond  any  place  I  had 
seen  in  the  States :  but  as  I  came  close  to  it,  as  usual,  I 
was  woiully  disappointed.  It  contains  a  valuable  por- 
trait of  Washington,  when  a  Major  in  the  British  service, 
and  wearing  of  course  the  blue-and-buff  uniform. 

Not  far  from  the  race-ground,  and  about  three  miles 
from  Georgetown,  is  the  residence  of  a  gentleman  who 
has  paid  greater  and  more  indefatigable  attention  to  the 
culture  of  the  vine  than  any  other  person  in  America. 
The  vineyards  around  his  house  produce  several  differ- 
ent kinds  of  grapes ;  from  which,  considering  how  few 
years  have  elapsed  since  the  attempt  was  first  made,  he 
may  be  said  to  have  been  very  successful  in  producing 
some  very  good  and  palatable  wines.  Amongst  others, 


56  SIX  MONTHS 

the  best  is  dignified  by  the  very  aristocratic  name  of 
"  Tokay."  It  is  made  from  the  "  Catawba"  grape,  which 
he  himself  first  found  in  a  cottager's  garden,  not  far  from 
a  tavern  bearing  the  sign  of  the  Catawba  Indians,  distant 
about  twenty  miles  from  Washington.  From  this  cir- 
cumstance he  called  it  the  Catawba  grape.  The  Cataw- 
ba is  a  river  of  South  Carolina,  but  no  grape  of  the  kind 
is  found  near  it.  The  cottagers  could  give  him  no  satisfac- 
tory account  of  it,  and  he  never  could  find  out  whether  it 
was  indigenous,  or,  which  is  most  likely  the  fact,  import- 
ed. It  is  rather  a  large  grape,  thick-skinned,  but  at  the 
same  time  very  transparent,  with  a  fine  purple  blush,  and 
far  more  fit  for  making  wine  than  to  form  a  part  of  a  des- 
sert As  yet  it  appears  to  thrive  better  than  any  kind  of 
grape  that  has  been  tried  in  the  United  States ;  so  much 
so,  that  at  Pittsburgh,  and  Lancaster,  and  other  places 
where  there  are  vineyards,  they  have  cleared  away  a 
large  portion  of  the  European  plants,  in  favour  of  the  Ca- 
tawba  vine.  He  informed  me  that  he  had  sent  cuttings 
of  it  to  every  State  in  the  Union  excepting  Florida,  Ar- 
kansaw,  and  Kentucky.  A  long  time,  however,  must 
elapse  before  the  Americans  can  compete  with  the  wines 
of  Europe  :  as  yet,  comparatively  speaking,  little  can  be 
known  there,  either  with  reference  to  the  best  fruit,  or  to 
the  soil  and  temperature  necessary  to  bring  it  to  perfec- 
tion. Upwards  of  seventy  kinds  of  the  wild  vine  are 
found  in  the  American  forests,  but  not  more  than  half  of 
them  bear  fruit.  At  Boston  I  tasted  a  grape  called  the 
Isabella  grape,  whose  flavour  was  still  harsh,  but  was  a 
great  and  decided  improvement  in  every  respect,  upon 
the  sourness  of  the  fox-grape  of  the  woods,  from  which,  I 
was  informed,  it  had  been  originally  produced.  I  am,  of 
course,  speaking  of  the  Catawba  and  other  grapes,  only 
in  their  wine-making  capacity ;  the  grapes  raised  in  the 
United  States  for  the  table,  are  exceedingly  good  and  very 
plentiful. 

As  a  matter  of  course,  I  visited  Mount  Vernon.  A 
steam-boat  conveyed  me  to  Alexandria  in  an  hour.  Alex- 
andria was  taken  by  the  British  squadron  on  the  29th  of 
August,  1814,  and  the  stores  of  flour,  tobacco,  and  cotton, 
were  carried  off  by  them.  It  contains  a  population  of 
9000  persons,  and  carries  on  a  trade  in  flour,  tobacco, 
fish,  and  lumber,  to  the  southern  States  and  the  West  In- 
dies, although  Baltimore  has  run  away  with  the  greater 
part  of  its  commerce.  A  ride  of  nine  miles  on  a  well 


IN   AMERICA.  57 

shaded  road,  conducted  me  to  Mount  Vernon,  now  in 
possession  of  John  Augustine  Washington,  Esq.,  nephew 
to  the  General,  and  to  the  late  Judge,  whose  worth  and 
learning  are  recorded  by  an  inscription  in  the   court- 
house of  Philadelphia.     Of  the  house  itself  there  is  little 
to  be  said.  I  saw  there  a  piece  of  an  old  mug,  which  bears 
upon  it  a  small  head  of  the  General,  said  to  be  the  best 
likeness  of  him  that   is  known  any  where.     From  the 
lawn,  there  is  a  fine  view  of  the  Potomac  with  Fort  Wash- 
ington nearly  opposite,  which  was  abandoned  at  the  ap- 
proach of  the  British  squadron  in  1814.     In   passing 
Mount  Vernon,  the  ships  fired  a  salute  it  well  deserved. 
I  must  confess  that  I  was  greatly  disappointed  at  the 
sight  of  the  tomb  that  contains  the  ashes  of  Washington. 
I  did  not  expect  grandeur,  but  I  thought  to  have  seen 
something  more  respectable  than  either  the  old,  or  the 
new  tomb,  to  which  the  coffin  was  removed  two  years 
ago.     But  for  the  inscription,  I  should  have  taken  them 
for  a  couple  of  ice-houses.  An  avoidance  of  every  thing  like 
pretension  is  desirable  only  so  long  as  it  is  attended  with 
neatness ;  but  there  is  not  even  what  can  be  fairly  called  a 
path  to  either  of  them.     Instead  of  feeling  as  I  wished, 
whilst  in  contemplation  of  the   last  long-home   of  this 
really  great,  because  good  man,  my  mind  was  only  occu- 
pied   by  intrusive  reflections  on   the  insignificant  and 
pauper-like   appearance  of  the  whole  scene  before  me. 
The  tears  of  La  Fayette,  when  visiting  the  tomb  in  1825, 
might  have  partly  flowed  from  other  sources  than  the 
mere  consciousness  that  he  was  standing  in  the  presence 
of  the  mortal  remains  of  his  old  friend  and  companion  in 
arms.    There  has  been  some  talk  of  removing  the  coffin 
to  the  centre  of  the  hall  in  the  capitol,  and  of  a  monument 
to  be  raised  over  it,  but  I  have  understood  that  it  is  not 
seriously  contemplated.     If  it  were  placed  there,  it  might 
one  day  be  the  means  of  saving  the  Union.    How  forci- 
ble, how  effective,  in  a  moment  of  danger,  might  be  an 
eloquent  appeal  to  its  presence,  made  by  the  judges  of 
the  supreme  court,  or  the  orators  of  the  American  con- 
gress ! 

I  was  never  fortunate  enough  to  hear  a  mocking  bird 
in  its  wild  state ;  I  had  frequently  heard  them  in  cages, 
but  no  where  in  such  perfection  as  at  Washington.  This 
bird,  one  of  the  noblest  in  nature,  is  an  inhabitant  of  the 
southern  states  only,  and  is  thus  described  by  Wilson,  the 
celebrated  Ornithologist.  "  The  plumage  of  the  mocking 


58  SIX    MONTHS 

bird  would  scarcely  entitle  him  to  notice,  but  his  figure 
is  well  proportioned,  and  even  handsome.  The  ease, 
elegance,  and  rapidity  of  his  movements — the  animation 
of  his  eye,  and  the  intelligence  he  displays  in  listening 
and  laying  up  lessons  from  almost  every  species  of  the 
feathered  race  within  his  hearing,  are  really  surprising, 
and  mark  the  superiority  of  his  genius.  He  has  a  voice 
capable  of  almost  every  modulation,  from  the  clear  mel- 
low notes  of  the  wood-thrush,  to  the  savage  scream  of 
the  bald-eagle.  In  measure  and  accent,  he  faithfully  fol- 
lows his  originals ;  in  force  and  sweetness  of  expression, 
he  greatly  improves  upon  them  :  his  admirable  song  rises 
paramount  over  every  competitor.  His  own  native  notes 
are  bold  and  full,  and  varied  beyond  all  limits.  In  the 
height  of  his  song,  his  ardour  and  animation  appear  un- 
bounded— he  sweeps  round  with  enthusiastic  ecstasy — he 
mounts  or  descends  as  his  song  swells  or  dies  away ;  and 
as  my  friend  Mr.  Bartram,  (an  American  naturalist,)  has 
beautifully  expressed  it :  'he  bounds  aloft  with  the  rapi- 
dity of  an  arrow,  as  if  to  recover  and  recall  his  very  soul, 
expired  in  the  last  elevated  strain.'  While  thus  exerting 
himself,  a  by-stander  destitute  of  sight  would  suppose,  that 
the  whole  feathered  tribe  had  assembled  together,  each 
striving  to  produce  his  utmost  effort,  so  perfect  are  his 
imitations.  He  many  times  deceives  the  sportsman,  and 
sends  him  in  search  of  birds  that  are  not  within  a  mile  of 
him,  but  whose  notes  he  exactly  imitates.  Even  birds  them- 
selves are  imposed  upon  by  his  admirable  music,  and  are 
decoyed  by  the  fancied  calls  of  their  mates,  or  are  driven 
with  precipitation  into  the  depths  of  the  forest,  at  the 
screams  of  what  they  suppose  to  be  the  sparrow-hawk." 
He  is  of  a  size  between  the  thrush  and  the  nightingale, 
but  shaped  like  the  latter  bird.  His  plumage  in  general 
is  of  a  cinereous  brown  colour,  with  a  broad  bar  of  white 
on  the  wing,  which  he  is  very  fond  of  displaying.  I  am 
afraid  that  I  never  heard  them  in  perfection;  but  to 
judge  from  what  I  did  hear,  I  should  suppose  that  al- 
though infinitely  more  varied,  his  natural  notes  were  nei- 
ther so  full  nor  so  rich  as  those  of  the  nightingale.  But 
there  are  many  who  think  differently. 

One  morning  I  was  much  amused  by  the  debut  of  a 
new  volunteer  corps,  calling  themselves  the  Highlanders, 
— Washington  being  one  of  the  flattest  places  in  the 
States.  The  dress  would  have  looked  well  enough  had  it 
been  uniform,  but  I  was  told  there  was  not  plaid  enough  of 


IN   AMERICA.  59 

the  same  pattern  to  be  obtained  in  the  city.  The  bonnet 
had  a  very  theatrical  appearance,  and  would  not  have  been 
half  so  bad,  had  not  the  eye  been  attracted  by  the  waist- 
coat and  the  broad  lacings  of  the  coat,  all  of  which  were 
of  a  very  dark  sky-blue.  I  have  a  great  respect  for  the 
tartan ;  and  I  thought  it  might  have  looked  decent,  even 
when  converted,  as  it  was,  into  small-clothes,  had  they 
not  been  made  extremely  tight.  Still,  however,  the  cos- 
tume of  the  nether  men  might  have  passed  unnoticed, 
had  not  the  enormous  bows  at  the  knees  been  composed 
of  tri-coloured  ribbon,  and  the  general  effect  much  height- 
ened by  the  long  nankeen  gaiters,  which  covered  the  leg 
from  the  knee  to  the  shoe. 

In  the  capitol,  as  all  the  world  knows,  sit  the  senate, 
the  house  of  representatives,  and  the  supreme  court  of 
the  United  States.  And  here  I  may  be  permitted  to  re- 
mark,  that  when  writing  generally  on  such  a  subject  as 
the  United  States,  every  candid  person  will  make  allow- 
ances for  the  impossibility  of  avoiding  a  repetition  of 
things  already  well  known  and  well  described.  Under 
the  apprehension  that  I  shall  frequently  be  in  error  on 
this  head,  I  think  the  safest  mode  is  to  apologise  at  once, 
and  beforehand.  None,  however,  is  necessary  for  not 
entering  at  large  upon  a  subject  so  tedious  and  so  endless, 
as  that  of  the  courts  of  the  different  states  in  their  sepa- 
rate capacity  as  to  the  federal  judiciary.  I  may  men- 
tion, that  the  United  States  are  divided  into  seven  judicial 
circuits,  and  thirty-two  judicial  districts.  Each  state  is 
one  district,  with  the  exceptions  of  New  York,  Pennsyl- 
vania, Virginia,  Tennessee,  Louisiana,  and  Alabama; 
which  are  each  of  them  divided  into  two  districts.  There 
are  three  courts  belonging  to  the  general  or  federal  go- 
vernment :  the  district  court,  the  circuit  court,  and  the 
supreme  court.  The  district  court  possesses  a  civil  and 
criminal  admiralty  and  maritime  jurisdiction,  and  also 
takes  cognizance  of  all  cases  affecting  the  revenue,  and 
all  crimes  and  offences  committed  within  the  district, 
which  are  punishable  by  moderate  corporal  punishment, 
or  fine  and  imprisonment.  It  is  held  by  a  district  judge, 
(there  being  one  in  each  district,)  sitting  alone,  four  times 
a  year :  his  salary  varies  from  1000  to  3000  dollars  a 
year.  An  appeal  lies  from  his  decision  in  cases  where,  ex- 
elusive  of  costs,  the  matter  in  dispute  exceeds  the  sura  or 
value  of  fifty  dollars,  to  the  "  circuit  court,"  possessing  an 
original  jurisdiction,  civil  and  criminal.  The  civil  juris- 


60  SIX   MONTHS 

diction  extends  to  all  controversies  between  citizens  of 
different  states,  and  between  a  citizen  and  an  alien.  All 
offences  against  the  penal  laws  of  the  United  States,  can 
be  tried  in  this  court.  It  is  also  a  court  of  equity.  The 
circuit  court  is  held  before  the  district  judge,  sitting 
twice  a  year  with  the  judge  of  the  supreme  court  An 
appeal  lies  from  its  decisions  to  the  supreme  court  of  the 
United  States,  where  the  matter  in  dispute  exceeds  two 
thousand  dollars.  In  criminal  cases,  a  point  may  be  re- 
served for  the  opinion  of  the  judges  of  the  supreme  court, 
which  is  sent  down  to  the  circuit  court  to  be  proceeded 
upon  afterwards.  In  six  of  the  states,  Alabama,  Missis- 
sippi, Louisiana,  Indiana,  Illinois,  and  Missouri,  there  is 
no  circuit  court,  because  the  judges  of  the  supreme  court 
could  not  find  time  to  sit  there  twice  a  year ;  but  the  dis- 
trict courts  possess  the  powers  and  jurisdiction  of  a  cir- 
cuit court. 

The  supreme  court  of  the  United  States,  is  a  very  high 
and  honourable  tribunal,  composed  of  a  chief  justice,  with 
a  salary  of  5000  dollars  (1125Z.,)  and  six  associate  jus- 
tices, with  a  salary  of  4500  dollars  each,  who  hold  a  sit- 
ting once  a  year,  at  Washington,  commencing  on  the 
second  Monday  in  January.  The  court  sits  five  hours 
every  day  for  two  months,  deciding  in  that  time  usually 
about  eighty  causes,  which  are  reported  as  those  of  the 
law  courts  in  England  used,  and  ought  still  to  be,  by  an 
officer  of  the  court.  Its  original  jurisdiction  is  confined 
to  all  such  cases,  affecting  ambassadors,  consuls,  and  vice- 
consuls,  as  a  court  of  law  can  exercise  consistently  with 
the  law  of  nations ;  and  it  has  original,  but  not  exclusive 
jurisdiction  of  all  suits  brought  by  ambassadors,  and 
other  public  ministers,  in  which  a  consul  or  vice-consul 
is  a  party.  But  its  dignity  rests  chiefly  on  its  appellate 
jurisdiction,  which  extends  to  all  cases  and  appeals,  and 
writs  of  error  from  the  circuit  courts :  likewise  in  all 
cases  where  the  constitution  and  laws  of  the  federal  go- 
vernment, or  the  construction  of  any  treaty  entered  into 
by  the  federal  government,  or  its  validity,  or  any  right 
or  interest  under  a  treaty,  has  been  a  subject  of  contro- 
versy in  the  state  tribunals.  Its  decisions  and  opinions 
on  the  construction  of  the  consitution,  are  the  safeguard 
of  the  Union.  But  its  appellate  jurisdiction  is  defined, 
and  extends  to  no  cases  but  where  the  power  is  affirma- 
tively given.  In  order  to  enable  it  to  issue  a  manda- 
mus, proof  is  required  that  it  is  an  exercise,  or  necessa- 


IN    AMERICA.  61 

ry  to  an  exercise,  of  its  appellate  jurisdiction.  The  su- 
preme court  has  jurisdiction  in  all  controversies  whore 
the  United  States  shall  be  a  party  in  controversies  be- 
tween two  or  more  states ;  between  a  state  and  the  citi- 
zens of  another  state ;  between  citizens  of  different 
states  ;  between  citizens  of  the  same  state  claiming 
lands  under  grants  of  different  states ;  and  between  a 
state,  or  the  citizens  thereof,  and  foreign  states,  citi- 
zens, or  subjects.  A  strict  and  admirable  attention  to 
justice,  is  observable  in  these  arrangements.  Every 
description  of  case  which  might  be  partially  decided  by 
the  courts  of  the  litigant  states  is  brought  to  the  bar  of 
the  great  national  tribunal  to  be  disposed  of. 

During-  the  last  sittings  of  the  supreme  court,  a  case 
of  great  constitutional  interest  was  heard  before  it.  It 
was  entitled  "  The  Cherokee  Nation  versus  the  State 
of  Georgia."  The  Cherokee  nation  having  been  re- 
peatedly  harassed  by  the  incursions  and  other  unneigh- 
bourly  proceedings  of  the  inhabitants  of  Georgia,  appli- 
ed to  the  supreme  court  for  an  injunction  to  restrain 
the  state,  its  governor,  and  other  officers,  from  execut- 
ing and  enforcing  the  laws  of  Georgia  within  the  Che- 
rokee territory.  The  counsel  for  the  Cherokees  argued, 
that  not  being  a  state  of  the  Union,  the  Cherokee  nation 
was  to  be  considered  as  a  foreign  state,  and  was  render- 
ed capable  of  suing  in  the  supreme  court  by  virtue  of  the 
clause  I  have  mentioned  above,  in  which  the  judicial 
power  of  the  court  is  extended  to  controversies  between  a 
state  and  the  citizens  thereof,  and  foreign  states,  citizens 
or  subjects  :  but  Chief  Justice  Marshall  decided,  that  the 
relation  of  the  Cherokees  to  the  United  States  resembled 
that  of  guardian  and  ward;  that  they  could  not  be  con- 
sidered either  as  a  foreign  state,  or  as  a  state  of  the 
Union ;  and  that  therefore  they  were  rendered  incapa- 
ble of  suing  in  that  court.  His  judgment  was  strength- 
ened by  the  wording  of  the  articles  of  the  constitution, 
in  which  Congress  is  empowered  to  regulate  commerce 
with  foreign  nations,  and  the  several  states  and  the  "  In- 
dian tribes,"  who  being  in  this  manner  specifically 
mentioned,  could  not  have  been  considered  as  a  foreign 
state  or  nation  by  the  original  framers  of  the  constitu- 
tion. Imagine  the  astonishment  of  the  poor  Cherokees 
upon  being  told,  that  the  highest  tribunal  at  the  city  of 
their  Great  Father  could  afford  them  no  redress.  The 
affair  will,  of  course,  come  before  congress.  Chief  Jus- 
6 


62  SIX    MONTHS 

tice  Marshall  decided  according  to  the  letter  of  the  con- 
stitution ;  but  the  opinion  of  Chancellor  Kent,  of  New 
York,  is  surely  deserving  of  the  greatest  attention,  as 
containing  an  exposition  apparently  more  agreeable  to 
justice.  He  considers  the  Indian  tribes,  "  not  only  as 
states,  but  as  foreign  states,  because  they  do  not  consti- 
tute any  ingredient  or  essential  part  of  our  own  body 
politic."  He  considers  the  clause  just  referred  to,  may 
have  contained  the  additional  grant  of  power  to  regulate 
commerce  with  the  4l  Indian  tribes,"  out  of  abundant 
caution,  and  to  prevent  any  possible  doubt  of  the  appli- 
cation to  them  of  the  power  to  regulate  commerce  with 
"foreign  nations."  The  last  words,  he  apprehends, 
would  have  reached  the  Indians ;  but  the  constitution, 
in  several  other  instances,  has  gone  into  a  like  specifi- 
cation of  powers  which  were,  by  necessary  implication, 
included  in  the  more  general  grant.  Thus,  for  instance, 
power  is  given  to  congress  "  to  declare  war,"  and  it  is 
immediately  subjoined  "  to  grant  letters  of  marque  ?.nd 
reprisal."  They  have  power  to  "coin  money,'"  and 
*'  to  regulate  the  value  thereof:"  they  have  power  "  to 
raise  armies,"  and  "to  provide  and  maintain  a  navy:" 
and  it  is  immediately  subjoined  "  to  make  rules  for  the 
government"  (and  not  government  only,  but  it  is  added) 
"and  regulation  of  the  army  and  land  force." 

All  the  judges  in  the  American  courts  enjoy  an  im- 
munity from  wigs,  and  the  judges  of  the  supreme  court 
alone  are  clothed  in  "  silk  attire."  Their  robes  are  black, 
and  fashioned  according  to  the  taste  of  the  wearer.  I 
examined  four  or  five  of  them  which  were  hanging  up 
in  the  court,  and  found  that,  although  perfectly  judicial, 
they  displayed  no  small  attention  to  taste  in  their  cut 
and  general  appearance.  A  proper  degree  of  dignity  is 
required  and  observed  in  the  supreme  court ;  business  is 
there  conducted  as  it  ought  to  be  in  every  court  of  jus- 
tice ;  but  some  of  the  state  courts  are  remarkably  defi- 
cient in  this  respect :  even  in  the  court-house  at  Phila- 
delphia, during  the  sitting  of  the  circuit  court,  I  have 
seen  a  gentleman,  a  counsellor  of  eminence,  coolly  seat 
himself  on  the  table  whilst  a  judgment  was  being  given, 
and  in  that  attitude  I  have  heard  him  address  some  in- 
terlocutory observation  to  the  court,  and  press  them  up- 
on its  attention  with  great  earnestness  and  ability.  I 
cannot  understand  why  more  dignity,  both  judicial  and 
forensic,  should  not  be  observed  in  the  courts  of  the 


IN    AMERICA.  63 

United  States.  I  have  often  been  in  the  company  of 
American  lawyers,  who,  as  individuals,  were  men  of 
gentlemanly  manners,  and  excellent  general  information, 
which  they  have  ever  evinced  a  readiness  to  impart : 
but  1  do  not  remember  one  whoever  mentioned  the  sub- 
ject at  all,  without  admitting  that  a  proper  want  of  the 
respect  due  to  the  time  and  place  is  frequently  but  tco 
visible  in  the  American  courts  ;  and  yet  there  is  no  im- 
provement. 

Silence,  being  indispensable,  is  well  preserved ;  but 
counsel  and  attorneys  may  be  occasionally  seen  with 
their  legs  dangling  over  the  back  of  a  chair,  or  possibly 
resting  on  the  table.  A  corresponding  carelessness  of 
manner  is  of  course  exhibited  by  the  spectators.  I  have 
even  observed  persons  with  their  hats  on  in  court,  and 
upon  inquiry  have  been  told  they  were  Quakers ;  but 
once  or  twice  I  remember  having  taken  the  liberty  of 
doubting  the  information.  I  hope  I  shall  not  be  suppos- 
ed to  mean,  that  no  greater  decorum  is  observed  in  the 
principal  courts  of  the  larger  cities  than  in  those  held 
at  places  of  minor  importance  ;  I  am  speaking  of  them, 
generally  as  I  found  them  when  in  travelling.  I  hap- 
pened to  arrive  at  some  place  where  a  court  was  sit- 
ting, and  "just  dropped  in"  for  half  an  hour  en  pas- 
sant ;  but  still  there  is  always  a  something  even  in  the 
best  of  them  which,  to  an  English  eye,  appears  undig- 
nified and  indecorous ;  although  there  can  be  no  doubt 
that  their  appearance  is  not  mended  by  the  total  ab- 
sence of  wigs  and  gowns  from  all  of  them. 

The  spirit  of  equality  renders  it  allowable,  and  the 
impossibility  in  distant  towns  of  making  the  profession 
answer  by  any  other  atrangement,  renders  it  necessary, 
that  a  barrister  and  solicitor  should  frequently  commence 
business  as  partners,  and  play  into  each  other's  hands.  A 
judge  will  frequently  travel  from  town  to  town  unat- 
tended, in  his  gig,  or  on  horseback  with  his  saddle- 
bags before  him,  or  in  the  stage-coach,  and  dine  at  the 
village  table  d'hote  with  shop-keepers,  pseudo  majors, 
and  advertising  attorneys.  Human  nature  will  out.  In 
the  absence  of  other  titles,  it  is  the  pleasure  of  the  Ame- 
ricans that  they  should  be  dignified  by  the  rank  of  Ge- 
neral, Colonel,  or  Aide-de-camp;  but  more  especially  I 
found  by  that  of  Major.  An  English  gentleman  assur- 
ed me  that,  being  on  board  a  steamer  on  the  Ohio  river, 
he  was  first  introduced  by  a  friend  as  plain  Mr.,  then  as 


64  SIX    MONTHS 

Captain ;  soon  after  he  was  addressed  as  Major,  and  be- 
fore the  end  of  the  day  he  was  formally  introduced  as  a 
General.  There  is  usually  a  Major,  or  an  Aide,  as  they 
call  themselves,  in  every  stage  coach  company.  The 
captain  of  a  steamboat,  who  was  presiding  at  the  dinner 
table,  happened  to  ask  rather  loudly,  "  General,  a  little 
fell?"  and  was  immediately  answered  in  the  affirma- 
tive by  twenty. five  out  of  the  thirty  gentlemen  that  were 
present. 

One  would  have  imagined1,  that  in  the  United  States, 
where  an  equal  partition  of  the  rights  of  mankind  is  the 
boasted  foundation  of  the  government,  Justice  would 
have  been  treated  with  peculiar  courtesy  ;  but  she  is 
not  properly  honoured  there.  Justice  is  not  exclusively 
a  republican  in  principle,  whatever  the  Americans  may 
think.  She  must  remain  unaltered,  whatever  may  be 
the  form  of  government,  as  the  value  of  the  diamond  is 
the  same  whether  its  possessor  be  a  prince  or  a  peasant. 
During  my  occasional  visits  to  the  courts  of  justice  in 
the  United  States,  I  could  not  help  thinking  how  fortu- 
nate it  was  that  Justice  was  blind,  and  could  not  there- 
fore be  shocked  by  the  want  of  decorum  I  observed  there. 
What  was  my  surprise  on  entering  the  supreme  court  in 
the  capitol  at  Washington,  to  perceive  her  wooden 
figure  with  the  eyes  unfilleted,  and  grasping  the  scales 
like  a  groceress !  With  great  deference,  I  would  suggest 
that  the  whole  of  this  unworthy  group  shpuld  be  remov- 
ed. The  day  may  arrive,  as  I  have  said  before,  when 
the  supreme  court  may  be  the  means  of  saving  the 
Union. 

Any  suggestions  recommendatory  of  an  amendment 
or  additional  clause  in  the  constitution,  emanate  from 
the  judges  of  this  exalted  tribunal.  When  it  is  thought 
necessary  that  the  constitution  of  any  particular  state 
should  be  altered  or  amended,  the  legislature  authorises 
the  people  to  express  their  opinions  as  to  whether  they 
are  or  are  not  in  favour  of  calling  a  general  convention. 
This  is  usually  arranged  at  the  time  of  a  general  elec- 
tion. If  there  be  a  majority  in  favour  of  the  convention, 
the  legislature  then  calls  upon  the  people  to  elect  per- 
sons to  serve  as  members  or  delegates,  and  it  fixes  the 
time  of  meeting.  Jf  any  amendments  are  made  by  the 
convention,  they  are  submitted  to  the  people  for  their 
approval ;  and  if  a  majority  decide  upon  their  adoption, 
they  forthwith  become  part  of  the  constitution. 


IN    AMERICA.  65 

When  it  is  considered  that  the  supreme  court  has  a 
federal  jurisdiction  extending  over  a  union  of  twenty- 
four  states,  many  of  them  as  large  or  larger  than  England, 
whose  humble  and  individual  importance  are  increas- 
ing, and  which  are  divided  and  subdivided  by  party, 
and  by  conflicting  and  annually  arising  interests,  and 
which  are  becoming  more  and  more  democratic  in  every 
succeeding  year,  and  consequently  more  and  more  op- 
posed to  the  spirit  in  which  the  constitution  was  original- 
ly framed,  some  idea  may  be  formed  of  the  importance 
that  is  attached  to  the  decisions  of  this  court,  whose  au- 
thorities, from  first  to  last,  are  Intended  as  a  safeguard 
to  the  Union.  The  independence  of  this  court,  and,  in 
fact,  of  all  the  federal  judiciary,  may  be  termed  the  sheet- 
anchor  of  the  United  States.  Its  power  constitutes  their 
chief  hope ;  the  abuse  of  it  is  the  only  medium  of  ty- 
ranny, and  is  therefore'the  principal  source  of  apprehen- 
sion. The  judges  of  all  the  federal  courts  hold  their  of- 
fices during  good  behaviour,  and  are  removable  only  by 
impeachment.  It  would  reasonably  be  supposed  that 
the  individual  states  would  follow  the  example  of  the 
general  government  in  the  appointment  of  their  judges  ; 
but  this  is  not  the  case.  In  seven  of  the  states  they 
are  elected  for  a  term  of  years  only  ;  in  Rhode  Island 
they  are  elected  annually  ;  in  five  of  the  states  they  are 
obliged  to  go  out  of  office  at  sixty,  sixty-five,  or  seventy 
years  of  age.  This  law,  in  the  enlightened  stale  of  New 
York,  has  deprived  it  of  the  valuable  services  of  Chan- 
cellor Kent,  the  author  of  the  admirable  Commentaries 
on  the  laws  of  America.  There  are  many  democrats 
who  actually  wish  that  the  judges  of  the  supreme  court 
should  be  elected  for  a  term  of  years  only.  This  cus- 
tom is  notoriously  productive  of  sufficient  hardships  in 
some  of  the  more  remote  states,  where,  on  account  of 
the  smallness  of  the  salary,  amounting  to  not  more  than 
two  or  three  hundred  pounds,  the  bench  is  sometimes  fill- 
led  by  young  and  inexperienced  men,  who  are  the  chil- 
dren of  party,  and  whose  decisions  must  be  occasionally 
affected  by  the  hope  of  re-election. 

Entailed  estates  are  but  little  known  in  the  United 
States :  in  South  Carolina,  Georgia,  and  Louisiana,  not 
at  all.  In  many  of  the  states  they  are  nothing  in  effect 
but  an  estate  in  fee ;  the  limitation  in  tail  being  of  no 
value,  except  it  be  in  special  tail.  But  in  all  cases  es- 
tates tail  may  be  barred  by  a  simple  deed  of  bargain  and 


66  SIX    MONTHS 

sale,  and  which  is,  in  fact,  the  almost  universal  assur- 
rance;  lease  and  release  being  but  little  known.  In 
other  respects  the  doctrine  of  the  statutes  of  uses  is  in  full 
operation,  excepting1  in  the  state  of  New  York,  where  it 
has  been  discontinued  since  the  new  code  passed  in  1829. 
The  proceedings  of  the  courts  of  equity  are  for  the 
most  part  similar  to  those  practised  in  England.  Many 
of  the  estates  have  chancellors,  whose  offices  are  held 
like  those  of  the  other  judges.  The  state  of  New  York 
had  just  been  obliged  to  appoint  a  vice-chancellor,  on 
account  of  the  increase  of  business.  The  duties  of  the 
chancellor,  as  far  as  they  go,  are  the  same  as  those  of 
the  lord  chancellor  of  England ;  but  in  many  of  the 
states  the  jurisdiction  in  bankruptcy  or  insolvency  is  se- 
parate. The  terms  bankruptcy  and  insolvency  are  used 
indiscriminately,  although  the  distinction  is  of  course 
generally  known  and  understood  among  lawyers.  By 
the  articles  of  the  constitution,  the  general  government 
is  enabled  to  pass  uniform  laws  on  the  subject  of  bank- 
ruptcy. No  general  bankrupt  law  has,  however,  been 
passed,  although  such  a  measure  has  been  often  contem- 
plated. In  the  United  States  a  proportion  of  the  people, 
large  beyond  that  of  any  other  country,  is  engaged  more 
or  less  in  traffic  of  some  kind  or  other  in  the  course  of 
the  year,  and  the  difficulty  of  coming  to  any  equitable 
decision  as  to  who  may  or  may  not  be  considered  a 
bankrupt,  has  been  the  reason  why  no  general  law  on 
the  subject  has  been  passed  by  the  federal  congress.  The 
states  likewise  have  the  power  of  passing  bankrupt 
laws  ;  but  they  would  only  be  productive  of  confusion, 
as  they  would  not  be  allowed  to  have  the  effect  of  rescind- 
ing a  contract  between  citizens  of  different  states  ;  the 
supreme  court  having  decided  that  a  discharge  under  the 
bankrupt  or  insolvent  laws  of  one  state,  could  not  affect 
contracts  made  or  to  be  executed  in  another.  As  a  matter 
of  necessity,  the  states  have  insolvent  laws  of  their  own, 
which  are  generally  recognised  and  respected  in  all  of 
them  as  far  as  they  conveniently  can  be.  In  some  cases 
the  person  only,  not  the  debt,  is  released  by  them;  in  others, 
the  debt  is  discharged,  but  future  acquisitions  by  gift,  de- 
vise, or  descent,  are  liable,  though  not  the  produce  of  fu- 
ture industry.  The  whole  law  on  the  subject  of  bail  in 
the  United  States  is  much  the  same  as  that  of  England. 
A  debtor  to  the  United  States  can  only  be  released  by 
obtaining  a  release  under  the  United  States'  insolvent 


IN     AMERICA.  67 

law.  In  order  to  be  enabled  to  apply  for  a  release  un- 
der the  insolvent  laws  of  any  particular  state,  a  debtor 
must  have  resided  in  that  state  for  a  certain  period,  ge- 
nerally one  year ;  and  on  the  surrender  of  all  property , 
(if  he  has  any,)  he  obtains  a  discharge  from  prison, 
which  is  also  a  discharge  from  the  debt  itself,  and,  as  a 
personal  discharge,  is  respected  throughout  the  Union  ; 
but  as  a  discharge  from  tho  debt,  it  often  operates  a's 
such  only  in  the  state  that  grants  the  discharge.  Be- 
tween citizens  of  the  same  state  it  releases  the  debt  as 
well  as  the  person;  between  citizens  of  different  states, 
or  between  a  citizen  and  a  foreigner,  or  between  fo- 
reigners, the  discharge  depends  on  circumstances.  If 
the  suit  be  brought  in  the  courts  of  any  particular  state, 
and  the  party  has  been  released  by  the  laws  of  that 
state,  the  debt  is  considered  equally  cancelled  as  if  the 
controversy  had  been  between  citizens  of  the  same  state. 
If  the  debtor  to  the  United  States  has  applied  for,  and 
obtained  the  benefit  of  the  United  States'  insolvent  law, 
it  can  only  be  in  cases  where  a  judgment  has  been  ob- 
tained against  him,  and  he  has  been  taken  in  execution. 
He  must,  however,  remain  in  prison  for  thirty  days,  and 
surrender  all  his  property,  which  he  must  swear  does 
not  exceed  thirty  dollars,  over  and  above  his  necessary 
wearing  apparel;  for  if  he  has  property  beyond  that 
amount,  he  cannot  obtain  the  benefit  of  this  law.  By  this 
discharge,  the  person  only  is  released,  so  that  property 
subsequently  obtained  from  any  source  is  responsible.  In 
all  other  cases  of  discharge,  under  the  insolvent  laws  of 
individual  states,  before  noticed,  the  person  or  the  debt 
are  discharged,  (as  mentioned  above,)  but  still  with  the 
reservation,  that  all  property  acquired  by  descent,  gift, 
or  devise,  shall  be  subjected  to  execution,  but  not  the  fu- 
ture acquisitions  of  the  debtor  by  other  means. 

Fugitive  debtors  from  other  countries  can  be  sued  and 
imprisoned  only  as  if  they  were  citizens  of  America, 
that  is,  by  exhibiting  against  them  a  bailable  cause  of 
action.  They  must  remain  in  prison,  if  taken  immedi- 
ately on  their  arrival,  until  entitled  by  a  residence  in  the 
state  (usually  for  one  year)  to  apply  for  the  benefit  of  the 
insolvent  laws.  State  citizenship  is  required  only  in  a 
few  of  the  states,  the  more  general  law  being,  that  they 
may  be  discharged  after  a  year's  residence  in  the  state 
in  which  they  happen  to  be  sued,  whether  they  have  be- 
come citizens  or  not.  Foreigners  become  citizens  of  the 


68  SIX    MONTHS 

United  States  after  five  years'  residence.  The  acts  of 
naturalization,  the  last  of  which  was  passed  in  1816,  re- 
quire that  an  oath  be  taken  before  a  state-court,  by  a 
foreigner  of  good  moral  character  three  years  before  his 
admission,  of  his  intention  to  become  a  citizen,  and  to 
renounce  his  native  allegiance  ;  and  at  the  time  of  ad- 
mission he  must  satisfy  the  court,  that  he  has  resided 
five  or  six  years,  at  least,  within  the  United  States,  and 
likewise  take  an  oath  to  renounce  and  abjure  his  native 
allegiance,  and  to  support  the  constitution  of  the  Unit- 
ed States. 

America  is,  in  some  respects,  a  laboratory  for  the  rest 
of  the  world.  It  is  the  fittest  region  for  experiment. 
From  the  first  of  January,  1832,  imprisonment  for  debt 
has  ceased  in  the  state  of  New  York  ;  the  fact  is,  there 
is  so  much  more  false  capital  in  the  United  States  than 
in  England,  that  a  creditor  is  not  often  one  dollar  the 
richer  for  having  put  his  debtor  into  confinement.  The 
example,  if  it  succeed,  will  probably  soon  be  followed  in 
Massachusetts,  where  there  is  a  strong  party  in  favour 
of  a  similar  experiment.  Whilst  I  was  in  that  state,  a 
meeting  was  held  at  Boston,  to  consider  of  its  propriety  ; 
but  the  united  arguments  of  many  speakers,  tended  to 
prove  nothing  more  than  what  was  most  probably  ac- 
knowledged beforehand,  by  three-fourths  of  those  who 
heard  them,  and  into  which  all  that  can  be  said  on  the 
subject  must  ultimately  resolve  itself,  namely,  that  the 
sufferings  of  an  innocent  debtor  are  highly  unjust,  and 
much  to  be  lamented  ;  but  that  it  would  be  very  objec- 
tionable to  have  no  means  of  confining  one  whose  con- 
duct had  been  fraudulent.  By  the  constitution  of  the 
state  of  Illinois,  imprisonment  for  debt  is  disallowed,  ex- 
cept in  cases  of  fraud,  or  the  refusal  of  the  debtor  to  de- 
liver up  his  property  for  the  benefit  of  his  creditors. 

The  question  as  to  the  power  of  any  court  or  officer  to 
remove  a  child  from  his  parents  on  account  of  their  mis- 
conduct, remains  unsettled;  but  if  either  of  the  parents 
were  dead,  and  the  survivor  an  unsuitable  person  to  take 
care  of  the  child,  application  would  be  made  to  the  or- 
phan's court,  which  exists  in  every  state.  Its  authority 
resembles  that  of  the  lord  chancellor  in  cases  of  infants 
being  wards  of  court.  Wills,  both  of  real  and  personal 
estate,  are  proved  there ;  and  all  executors  and  admi- 
nistrators pass  their  accounts  in  this  court,  from  whose 
decisions  an  appeal  lies  to  the  chancellor.  All  deeds 


IN    AMERICA.  69 

arc  by  law  required  to  be  registered.  Wills  are  proved 
and  witnessed  as  in  England ;  and  a  similar  law  pre- 
vents a  witness  from  taking  a  legacy.  A  case  of  fraud 
used  in  obtaining  a  will,  the  only  fraud  of  which  the 
English  court  of  chancery  does  not  take  notice,  is  de- 
cided by  the  chancellor  in  some  states  ;  in  others,  it  is 
usual  to  send  it,  as  in  England,  to  a  jury. 

The  whole  law  of  mortgage  is,  generally  speaking, 
much  the  same  as  in  England. 

The  proceedings  in  a  chancery  suit,  differ  only  in  the 
pleadings  being  a  little  more  simple :  a  bill  for  instance, 
contains  merely  the  stating  and  interrogating  parts,  and 
the  prayer.  Witnesses  are  examined,  as  in  England, 
upon  written  interrogatories.  The  effect  of  an  answer 
and  the  mode  of  using  it  in  court,  are  also  similar. 

There  is  no  such  officer  as  an  accountant-general. 
Masters  in  chancery  are  known  only  in  some  of  the 
states.  Their  duties  are  somewhat  similar;  and  mat- 
ters are  referred  to  any  one  of  them  whom  the  parties 
may  agree  upon.  In  New  York,  I  observed  that  "  Mr. 
A,  master  in  chancery,"  was  almost  as  frequently  to  be 
seen  on  the  door,  as  the  names  of  a  counsellor  and  soli- 
citor. In  those  states  where  there  are  no  masters  in 
chancery,  the  court  has  a  "  Permanent  Auditor,"  who 
discharges  ncurly  all  the  duties  assigned  to  the  masters 
in  England. 

The  form  of  an  action,  the  pleadings,  and  the  method 
of  obtaining  evidence,  are  essentially  the  same  as  those 
used  in  England,  generally.  In  some  states  the  action 
of  ejectment  is  unknown;  in  others,  it  has  merely  un- 
dergone some  modification.  Real  actions,  such  as  writs 
of  right,  writs  of  entry,  are  much  used ;  the  period  of  li- 
mitation has,  however,  been  altered  from  that  of  Eng- 
land. The  English  law  of  prescription  is  acknowledg- 
ed, with  a  very  few  necessarily  constitutional  exceptions. 
The  period  of  limitation  allowed  in  an  action  of  assump- 
sit,  also  varies  in  different  states ;  in  some  it  is  three 
years,  in  others  it  is  six,  as  in  England.  Where  the  ac- 
tion of  ejectment  is  in  use,  the  period  of  limitation  is  in 
some  states  twenty  years,  as  in  England ;  in  others, 
seven  years  is  thought  sufficient. 

Juries  are  generally  constituted  as  in  England,  with 
the  exception  of  special  juries,  which  are  never  formed. 
Throughout  the  United  States  a  counsellor  is  allowed 


70  SIX     MOM'HS 

to  make  a  speech  for  the  prisoner,  and  act  generally  in 
his  behalf,  as  in  a  civil  cause. 

Every  state  in  the  Union  has  its  rules  for  the  admis- 
sion of  counsellors,  solicitors,  and  attorneys..  They  ge- 
nerally require  that  a  student  shall  have  studied  law 
with  some  counsellor  for  at  least  three  years.  On  ap- 
plication for  an  admission  as  an  attorney,  the  court  usu- 
ally appoints  three  gentlemen  of  the  bar  to  examine  into 
the  moral  and  legal  qualifications  of  the  applicant.  If 
he  be  previously  and  favourably  known  to  them,  the  ex- 
amination is  almost  nominal.  If  he  be  unknown,  or  be 
known,  but  with  unfavourable  impressions,  the  exami- 
nation is  proportion  ably  more  strict.  When  admitted 
as  either  counsellor  or  solicitor,  he  can  generally  prac- 
tise in  both  characters,  the  distinction  being  nominal, 
excepting  in  the  supreme  court  of  the  United  States, 
where  no  person  can  be  counsellor  and  solicitor  at  the 
came  time.  In  the  country  particularly,  it  is  usual  for 
a  lawyer  toassume  the  duties  of  attorney,  conveyancer, 
proctor,  solicitor,  and  counsellor  ;  but  after  having  prac- 
tised some  time,  he  usually  confines  himself  to  the  prac- 
tice of  a  counsellor  only.  A  barrister  and  solicitor  are 
frequently  partners :  as  I  have  before  remarked,  it 
would  be  impossible  for  any  practitioner  to  obtain  a 
livelihood,  excepting  in  the  larger  towns,  without  exer- 
cising his  abilities  in  both  capacities.  For  the  "  mate- 
rial" of  a  great  part  of  the  foregoing  remarks  I  am  in- 
debted to  the  kind  and  able  assistance  of  a  gentleman  of 
the  Baltimore  bar,  and  I  have  endeavoured  that  their 
accuracy  should  not  suffer  under  my  pen. 

It  would  be  tedious  to  enter  into  any  detail  of  the  dif- 
ferent slate  constitutions.  It  is  sufficient  to  remark, 
that  their  affairs  are  usually  administered  by  a  governor, 
a  senate,  and  a  house  of  representatives.  The  executive 
authority  is  vested  in  the  governor,  who  has  in  some  states 
the  benefit  of  a  council.  In  souie  states  he  is  elected 
for  a  period  of  four  years,  but  more  usually  for  two. 
The  legislature  consists  of  a  senate,  and  house  of  repre- 
sentatives :  both,  or  the  latter,  are  usually  elected  an- 
nually; but  sometimes  for  a  longer  period,  with  mo- 
difications. In  the  state  of  Rhode  Island,  whose  go- 
vernment is  founded  on  the  provisions  of  the  charter 
granted  to  the  colony  by  Charles  the  Second  in  1663, 
and  which  is  the  only  state  in  the  Union  that  has  no 


IM    AMERICA.  71 

written  constitution,  the  governor,  senate,  and  judges 
are  elected  annually  :  the  members  of  the  house  of  re- 
presentatives are  elected  every  six  months,  or  semi-an- 
nually,  as  they  term  it  In  general,  no  other  qualifica- 
tions are  required  of  voters  but  those  of  colour,  age,  sex, 
and  residence.  In  nearly  all  the  states  the  right  of  suf- 
frage is  enjoyed  by  free  white  citizens,  who  have  resid- 
ed for  one  year  in  the  state,  and  six  months  in  the  coun- 
ty. In  some  of  the  states,  colour  is  no  bar.  As  to  age, 
that  of  twenty -one  years  is  the  usual  requisition.  Every 
voter  must  of  course  be  a  citizen  of  the  United  Slates. 

Without  entering  at  large  upon  the  hackneyed  sub- 
ject of  universal  suffrage,  it  may  be  sufficient  to  remark, 
that  the  intrinsic  evilsof  the  system  are  moreor  less  ac- 
knowledged by  a  very  large  proportion  of  the  better 
class  of  Americans,  although  they  of  course  diminish  in 
the  same  ratio  with  the  increase  of  virtue  and  intelli- 
gence ;  the  objection  is  not  merely,  that  the  uncultivat- 
ed and  the  ignorant  part  of  the  community  should  be  al- 
lowed the  unqualified  right  of  suffrage  ;  but  it  lies  in  the 
corrupt  influence  to  which  it  is  open.  Both  the  rich  and 
the  poor  man  have  rights  to  be  protected ;  but  it  must 
be  unreasonable,  that  the  wealthy  arid  enlightened 
should  be  controlled  by  the  needy.  The  object  of  my 
charity  goes  To  the  poll ;  and  not  only  exercises  as  much 
political  liberty  as  myself,  but  a  great  deal  more;  because 
the  poorer  classes  being  the  more  numerous,  the  govern- 
ment is  in  effect  under  their  direction.  If  in  addition 
to  this  it  be  considered,  that  they  must  frequently  vote 
in  compliance  with  the  wishes  of  a  superior,  it  follows, 
that  the  most  corrupt,  or  the  most  successful  at  intrigue, 
must  enjoy  the  greatest  share  of  political  power.  A 
person  who  does  not  in  such  a  country  as  America,  gain 
some  sort  of  qualification  by  his  industry  is,  surely,  un- 
worthy to  be  trusted  with  the  right  of  suffrage.  I  was 
informed  that  votes  were  very  rarely  bought  with  mo- 
ney, and  believed  it ;  because  where  the  voters  and  the 
candidates  are  so  numerous,  the  disbursements  must  be 
very  large,  and  the  difficulty  of  concealment  proportion 
ately  increased.  They  are  rather  commanded  by  con- 
siderations of  place;  and  it  is  very  evident,  that  a  person 
who  could  be  influenced  by  interest  in  one  way,  could 
easily  be  bribed  in  another,  were  it  not  for  t«e  fear  of 
detection.  The  system  of  treating  is  common  enough. 
"  Why,  Sir  1"  said  an  old  woman  to  a  gentleman  of 


72  SIX    MONTHS 

South  Carolina,  my  informant,  "  I  guess  Mr.  A.  is  the 
fittest  man  of  the  two,  but  t'other  whiskies  the  best." 
The  influence  of  petty  demagogues  is  very  great;  there 
being  usually  two  or  three  in  every  village.  Naturaliz- 
ed foreigners,  as  a  body  of  voters,  possess  great  power 
in  some  places :  in  New  York,  where  there  are  said  to 
be  nearly  30,000  Irish,  their  influence  over  the  elections 
is  much  complained  of. 

The  house  of  representatives  of  the  United  States  is 
composed  of  members  chosen  every  second  year,  by  the 
people  of  the  several  states.  In  Virginia  and  Kentucky 
they  are  voted  for,  viva  voce,  and  not  by  ballot,  as  in  the 
other  states.  At  present,  one  member  is  returned  for 
every  forty  thousand  persons,  five  slaves  in  the  slave 
states  counting  as  three  whites.  The  present  number 
is  216.  As  the  number  of  representatives  might  be  too 
large,  in  consequence  of  the  increasing  population,  the 
constitution  provides  that  the  number  should  not  exceed 
one  for  every  30,000,  but  that  no  state  shall  be  without 
a  representative.  As  the  minimum  only  is  there  men- 
tioned, the  federal  congress  has  the  power  of  extending 
the  number  of  electors  necessary  for  the  return  of  a 
member. 

The  senate  of  the  United  States  is  composed  of  two 
members  from  each  state.  They  are  cl'osen  by  the 
legislature  of  the  several  states,  for  the  term  of  six  years  ; 
one-third  of  them  being  elected  every  two  years.  The 
only  qualifications  necessary  for  a  senator  are — that  he 
be  thirty  years  of  age,  in  conformity  with  the  age  of  the 
Roman  senator ;  and  that  he  have  been  for  nine  years  a 
citizen  of  the  United  States,  and  an  inhabitant  of  the 
state  for  which  he  is  elected. 

The  qualifications  required  of  a  member  of  the  house 
of  representatives  are — that  he  be  twenty-five  years  ot 
age;  seven  years  a  citizen  of  the  United  States,  and  an 
inhabitant  of  the  state  where  he  is  chosen.  No  property 
qualification  is  required  in  either  case ;  and  the  conse- 
quence is,  that  the  house  of  representatives  is  half  filled 
with  young  lawyers.  The  only  privilege  it  enjoys  in 
its  legislative  character,  which  is  not  shared  by  the  sen- 
ate, 'w,  that  it  has  the  exclusive  right  of  originating  all 
money  bills. 

Chancellor  Kent,  in  his  Commentaries,  observes,  "that 
the  great  object  of  the  separation  of  the  legislature  into 
two  houses,  acting  separately,  and  with  co-ordinate  pow- 


IN     AMERICA.  73 

ers,  is  to  destroy  the  evil  effects  of  sudden  and  strong 
excitement ;  and  of  precipitate  measures,  springing  from 
passion,  caprice,  prejudice,  personal  influence,  and  party 
intrigue,  which  have  been  found,  \>y  sad  experience,  to 
exercise  a  potent  and  dangerous  sway  in  single  assem- 
blies." 

No  one  can,  for  a  moment,  doubt  the  force  of  these 
remarks.  It  is  the  best  arrangement  that  can  be  adopted 
in  a  republic:  still  it  is  but  splitting  one  pillar  into  two  ; 
the  interests  and  inducements  are  co-extensive.  The 
senate  of  the  United  States  and  the  British  house  of  lords 
are,  or  may  be,  equally  influenced  by  the  love  of  their 
country,  and  both  are  intended  for  its  protection ;  but 
the  one  is  little  moje  than  another  house  of  representa- 
tives, the  other  a  most  essentially  distinct  part  of  the 
government :  both  are  bound  by  the  ties  of  honour,  and 
the  duties  of  both  are.  defined  and  exacted  by  the  consti- 
tution ;  but  those  of  the  house  of  lords  are  dictated  by 
the  further  necessity  of  consulting  their  own  security 
by  a  proper  and  constant  interposition  between  the 
throne  and  the  people.  The  interests  of  the  one  are  the 
same  as  those  of  the  house  of  representatives,  the  only 
additional  power  they  enjoy  consisting  of  an  association 
with  the  president,  for  the  purpose  of  making  treaties, 
and  in  the  appointment  of  government  officers.  The 
interests  of  the  house  of  lords  are  identified  with  those 
of  the  house  of  commons,  not  merely  with  reference  to 
property  up  to  an  extent  usually  far  exceeding  the 
amount  of  the  qualifications  necessary  for  obtaining  a 
seat  in  that  house ;  but  they  purchase  an  additional 
security  to  the  constitution,  by  obliging  the  peers  of 
Great  Britain  to  keep  a  watchful  eye  on  every  attempt 
at  encroachment  upon  the  dignity  of  the  crown,  their 
own  rank  in  the  country,  and  their  rights  as  "  hereditary 
lawgivers."  In  these  times,  when  speculation  is  afloat, 
not  as  to  what  they  will  do,  but  as  to  what  they  dare  do, 
how  true  should  they  be  to  themselves.  Their  obliga- 
tions are  fax  more  weighty  than  the  "  legal  presump- 
tion" (to  use  the  words  of  Chancellor  Kent,  when  speak- 
ing of  the  senate  with  reference  to  the  house  of  repre- 
sentatives,) "  that  the  senate  will  entertain  more  enlarged 
views  of  public  policy,  will  feel  a  higher  and  greater 
sense  of  national  character,  and  a  greater  regard  for 
stability  in  the  administration  of  the  government." 
The  president  of  the  United  States  must  be  a  citizen 
7 


74  SIX    MONTHS 

of  the  United  States,  must  have  attained  the  age  of 
twenty-one  years,  and  have  been  fourteen  years  a  resi- 
dent in  the  United  States.*  He  holds  his  office  for  four 
years.  He  is  elected  at  the  same  time  as  the  vice- 
president,  who  is  president  of  the  senate,  but  who  has 
no  vote,  unless  the  votes  be  equally  divided.  The  pre- 
sident, vice-president,  and  all  civil  officers  of  the  United 
States,  are  removed  from  office  on  impeachment  for,  and 
conviction  of,  treason,  bribery,  or  other  high  crimes  and 
misdemeanours.  The  president  is  commander-in-chief 
of  the  army  and  navy  :  lie  has  the  power  by,  and  with 
the  advice  and  consent  of  the  senate,  to  make  treaties, 
provided  two-thirds  of  the  senators  present  concur  :  he 
can  convene  both  houses  of  congress,  on  extraordinary 
occasions-;  and  adjourn  them,  in  case  of  their  disagree- 
ment as  to  the  time,  to  any  time  he  may  think  proper  : 
he  appoints  ambassadors,  other  public  ministers  and 
consuls,  judges  of  the  supreme  court,  and  all  officers  of 
the  United  States  whose  appointments  are  not  otherwise 
provided  for  by  the  constitution,  and  which  shall  be 
established  by  law,  &c.  &c.  The  president  and  vice- 
president  are  elected  by  electors  appointed  in  each  state 
equal  to  the  whole  number  of  senators  and  representa- 
tives to  which  the  state  may  be  entitled  to  in  congress  ; 
but  no  senator,  or  representative,  or  person  holding  an 
office  of  trust  or  profit  in  the  United  States,  shall  be  ap- 
pointed an  elector.  The  method  of  choosing  these 
electors  is  threefold  :  by  the  state-legislatures  ;  by  gene- 
ral ticket ;  and  by  districts.  The  two  latter  are  more 
generally  preferred,  as  the  choice  emanates  more  directly 
from  the  people.  Four  only  of  the  states, — Delaware, 
South  Carolina,  Louisiana,  and  Tennessee,  adopt  the 
former.  I  think  it  would  be  tedious  and  unnecessary  to 
give  an  analysis  of  these  three  methods  ;  suffice  it  to  re- 
mark, I  have  heard  it  regretted  that  the  constitution 
did  not  limit  the  choice  to  one  mode.  Chancellor  Kent 
says,  "  there  would  be  less  opportunity  for  dangerous 
coalitions  and  combinations  for  party,  or  ambitious  or 
selfish  purposes,  if  the  choice  of  electors  were  referred 
to  the  people  at  large  ;  and  this  seems  now  to  be  the 
sense  and  expression  of  public  opinion."  When  the 
electors  have  made  out  the  requisite  lists,  they  are  sent 


*The  President  must  be  a  natural  born  citizen  ;  he  must  be  at 
least  thirty-five  years  in  the  United  States.— Ed. 


IN    AMERICA.  75 

up  to,  and  opened  in  the  presence  of  the  senate  and 
house  of  representatives ;  and  the  president  and  vice- 
president  are  chosen  in  the  manner  prescribed  by  the 
twelfth  article  of  the  amendments  to  the  constitution. 
In  the  year  1801,  the  federalist  candidates  for  the  presi- 
dency and  vice-presidency  were  Mr.  Adams  and  Gene- 
ral Pinkney ;  the  republican  favourites  were  Mr.  Jeffer- 
son and  Colonel  Burr.  The  two  latter  obtained  a  small, 
but  equal  majority  over  the  former ;  and  to  decide  be- 
tween them  was  the  allotted  office  of  the  house  of  repre- 
sentatives. Mr.  Jefferson  was  chosen  after  no  less  than 
thirty-five  trials.  In  the  mean  time  the  people  were 
kept  in  suspense ;  the  tranquillity  of  the  Union  was 
endangered ;  the  possibility  of  a  recurrence  of  similar 
difficulties  was  forcibly  impressed  upon  the  minds  of 
Americans ;  and  an  alteration  of  the  clause  regulating 
the  mode  of  election  of  the  president  and  vice-president 
was  resolved  upon.  The  old  clause  contained  these 
words :  "  The  person  having  the  greatest  number  of 
votes  to  be  president,  if  such  number  be  a  majority  of 
the  whole  number  of  electors  appointed ;  and  if  there  be 
more  than  one  who  have  such  a  majority,  and  have  an 
equal  number  of  votes,  then  the  house  of  representatives 
shall  immediately  choose  by  ballot  one  of  them  for  a 
president,  &c."  The  mode  of  election  was  altered ;  but 
it  may  still  happen  that  the  vote  of  a  single  member  of 
the  house  of  representatives  may  decide  it.  In  Presi- 
dent Jackson's  message  of  December,  1830,  he  says,  that 
44  the  necessity  for  an  amendment  is  made  so  clear  to 
his  mind  by  the  observation  of  its  evils,  and  by  the 
many  able  discussions  which  they  have  elicited  on  the 
floor  of  congress,  and  elsewhere,  that  he  should  be  want- 
ing in  his  duty  were  he  to  withhold  another  expression 
of  his  deep  solicitude  on  the  subject.  A  contingency 
which  sometimes  places  it  in  the  power  of  a  single  mem- 
ber of  the  house  of  representatives  to  decide  an  election 
of  so  high  and  solemn  a  character,  is  unjust  to  the  peo- 
ple ;  and  becomes,  when  it  occurs,  a  source  of  embar- 
rassment to  the  individuals  thus  brought  into  power, 
and  a  cause  of  distrust  of  the  representative  body. 
Liable  as  the  confederacy  is,  from  its  great  extent,  to 
parties  founded  upon  sectional  interests,  and  to  a  cor- 
responding multiplication  of  candidates  for  the  presi- 
dency, the  tendency  of  the  constitutional  reference  to 
the  house  of  representatives  is  to  devolve  the  election 


76  SIX    MONTHS 

upon  that  body,  in  almost  every  instance  ;  and  whatever 
choice  may  thus  be  made  among-  the  candidates  thus 
presented  to  them,  to  swell  the  influence  of  particular 
interests  to  a  degree  inconsistent  with  the  general  good.'1 
The  election  of  the  president,  immediately  by  the  people, 
without  the  intervention  of  electors,  is  here  hinted  at. 
There  is  a  levelling  spirit  abroad  in  the  United  States, 
that  sheds  its  influence  over  new  laws  and  institutions  : 
if  there  be  a  possibility  of  a  tendency  towards  either  the 
federal  or  the  democratical  principles,  that  tendency  is 
sure  to  be  democratical ;  and  it  is  by  no  means  im- 
probable, that  such  a  mode  of  election  may,  at  some  fu- 
ture day,  be  contended  for  and  adopted.  Chancellor 
Kent  says,  "that  the  mode  of  appointment  of  the  presi- 
dent, presented  one  of  the  most  difficult  and  momentous 
questions  that  could  have  occupied  the  deliberations  of  the 
assembly  which  framed  the  constitution  ;  and  if  ever  the 
tranquillity  of  this  nation  is  to  be  disturbed,  and  its  peace 
jeopardised  by  a  struggle  for  power  among  themselves, 
it  will  be  upon  this  very  subject  of  the  choice  of  a  pre- 
sident. It  is  the  question  that  is  eventually  to  attest 
the  goodness  and  try  the  strength  of  the  constitution, 
&c."  Should  the  mode  of  election  be  altered,  as  I  have 
just  supposed  it  may  be,  we  may  bid  adieu  to  the  Union 
forthwith.  When  we  consider  the  increasing  population 
of  the  United  States,  the  immense  variety  of  interests, 
and  that  every  free  inhabitant  feels,  I  may  say,  person- 
ally concerned, — whether  he  be  really  so  or  not, — in  the 
success  of  his  favourite  candidate,  we  can,  in  some 
measure,  foresee,even  under  the  present  mode  of  election, 
how  violent,  how  convulsing,  at  no  very  distant  period, 
will  be  the  struggle  and  party-feeling  exhibited  at  the 
election  of  an  officer,  whose  opinions  on  the  construction 
of  the  articles  of  the  constitution,  during  his  short  as- 
cendancy of  four  years,  will  affect  millions  with  a  senti- 
ment of  attachment  or  disgust.  When  General  Jackson 
came  into  office,  he  immediately  thought  proper  lo  turn 
out  several  hundred  subordinate  officers,  whose  places 
were  filled  up  by  his  own  parly.  The  number  of  those 
who  lost  their  places  at  the  commencement  of  any  pre- 
ceding presidency  was  extremely  small,  bearing  no  pro- 
portion whatever  to  those  dismissed  by  the  general. 
The  increasing  weight  and  importance  of  the  affairs  of 
the  United  States  rendered  it  partly  a  matter  of  expe- 
diency to  do  so;  and,  in  all  human  probability,  future 


IN    AMERICA.  77 

presidents  will  find  themselves  obliged  to  follow  the  ex- 
ample. I  make  no  remark  on  the  late  petticoat  confu- 
sion in  the  United  States  cabinet ;  like  the  battle  of 
Navarino,  the  best  that  can  be  said  of  it  is,  that  it  was 
an  "  untoward  event." 

The  salary  of  the  president  is  25,000  dollars  (£5625) 
a  year,  with  the  president's  house  at  Washington  for 
his  residence  ;  but  his  expenses  do  not  equal  his  income. 
Mr.  Calhoun,  the  vice-president,  receives  but  5000  dol- 
lars (£1125)  a  year.  The  secretaries  for  state,  trea- 
sury, war,  and  navy,  and  the  post-master-general,  re- 
ceive a  yearly  salary  of  6000  dollars  (£1350)  each,  and 
work  very  hard  for  it,  their  time  and  attention  being 
fully  occupied,  and  often  till  a  late  hour  of  the  night. 

In  the  message  of  1830,  to  which  I  have  before  re- 
ferred, General  Jackson  invites  the  attention  of  congress 
to  the  propriety  of  promoting  such  an  amendment  of 
the  constitution  as  will  render  the  president  ineligible 
after  one  term  of  service:  and  yet  General  Jackson  is 
again  a  candidate,  and  most  probably  a  successful  can- 
didate, for  the  office  of  president  at  the  next  election, 
on  the  first  Wednesday  in  December,  1832,  preparatory 
to  his  taking  office  for  the  twelfth  presidential  term  of 
four  years,  commencing  on  the  3d  of  March,  1833. 

The  election  of  the  next — and  heaven  knows  how 
many  future  presidents ! — will  depend  upon  the  known 
opinions  of  either  candidate  upon  the  Cherokee  case ; 
upon  the  question  of  the  renewal  of  the  charter  of  the 
United  States  bank,  to  which  I  have  before  adverted ; 
on  Masonry  ;  on  whether  there  is  or  is  not  a  power 
granted  by  the  constitution  to  lay  out  the  federal  funds 
upon  internal  improvements  throughout  the  Union ; 
and  lastly,  on  the  still  more  important  question  as  to 
the  continuance  or  modification  of  the  existing  tariff. 
The  candidates  will  most  likely  be  General  Jackson,  the 
president  of  the  day,  Mr.  Clay,  Mr.  Wirt,  and  Mr.  Cal- 
houn. 

The  opinions  of  General  Jackson  are  in  favour  of 
the  removal  of  the  Cherokees :  he  is  averse  to  the  re- 
newal of  the  charter  of  the  United  States  Bank ;  he 
is  a  Freemason,  and  believes  that  the  application  of 
the  federal  funds  to  internal  improvements  would  be 
unconstitutional.  His  opinions  on  the  tariff  question 
are  oracular  and  uncertain. 

Mr.  Clay  is  opposed  to  the  removal  of  the  Chero- 


78  SIX    MONTHS 

kees;  he  is  in  favour  of  the  renewal  of  the  bank  char- 
ter ;  he  is  a  Mason  ;  is  an  advocate  for  internal  im- 
provements ;  and  a  staunch  friend  to  the  protecting, 
or,  as  it  is  called  by  its  supporters,  the  American  sys- 
tem. 

Mr.  Wirt,  a  gentleman  of  Maryland,  was  the  coun- 
sel for  the  Cherokees  before  the  supreme  court.  He 
has  lately  been  started  as  a  candidate  by  the  Anti-ma- 
sons. Since  the  abduction  and  supposed  murder  of 
William  Morgan,  who,  a  few  years  since,  wrote  a 
book  revealing  the  secrets  of  Freemasonry,  the  Anti- 
masons  have  become  gradually  more  and  more  nume- 
rous. They  profess  a  hatred  of  all  secret  societies  as 
dangerous  and  unconstitutional ;  and  although  they 
will  not  be  able  to  secure  the  presidency  to  themselves, 
yet  it  is  probable  they  will  be  sufficiently  strong  to  de- 
feat the  election  of  either  of  the  more  obnoxious  can- 
didates. Mr.  Wirt's  opinions  are  supposed  to  coincide 
with  those  of  Mr.  Clay  generally  ;  but  with  respect  to 
the  internal  improvement  system,  and  the  tariff  ques- 
tion, he  is  at  present  uncommitted. 

Mr.  Calhoun,  the  vice-president  of  the  day,  is  the 
great  champion  of  the  interests  of  the  southern 
states,  the  nullifiers,  and  the  anti-tariff  parly  ;  and  in 
that  character,  if  at  all,  he  will  be  elected  to  the  presi- 
dency. His  opinions  are  in  favour  of  the  removal  of 
the  Cherokees,  and  of  the  existence  of  the  United 
States  Bank.  On  the  subject  of  internal  improve- 
ments his  opinions  are  said  to  be  changed,  he  having 
been  originally  an  advocate  of  the  system  when  secre- 
tary at  war  in  1819.  He  is  a  "Nullifier,"  although 
his  situation  as  vice-president  has  prevented  him  from 
showing  himself  in  that  character  so  uniformly  as  he 
would  have  done.  The  term  "nullifier,"  which,  like 
the  word  "radical"  in  England,  has  now  grown  into 
common  use,  was  first  adopted  by  the  members  from 
South  Carolina,  in  congress,  about  two  years  ago ;  the 
doctrine  they  profess  was  broached  at  the  same  time. 
A  nullifier  is  a  person  who  holds  that  the  federal  con- 
stitution is  merely  a  compact  or  league  between  the 
several  states  ;  and  that  each  state  has  a  right  to  de- 
cide for  itself  concerning  the  infractions  of  that 
league  by  the  federal  government,  and  to  nullify  or 
declare  void  an  act  of  the  federal  congress  within  its 
limits. 


IN   AMERICA.  79 

Whatever  may  be  urged  by  the  party  who  are  op- 
posed  to  the  opinions  of  General  Jackson,  with  refer- 
ence to  the  advancement  of  prosperity  in  the  United 
States  by  his  internal  policy  merely,  his  administra- 
tions of  the  affairs  of  his  country  with  regard  to  its 
relations  with  foreign  powers,  has  certainly  been  gene- 
rally successful.  He  has  obtained  for  her  the  com- 
mand of  a  profitable  trade  with  the  British  West  In- 
dian and  North  American  colonies,  thereby  settling  a 
question  which  had  already  been  the  subject  of  six  ne- 
gotiations. The  president,  in  his  Message,  at  the 
second  sitting  of  congress,  on  the  7th  of  December, 
1830,  says,  that  this  desirable  result  was  promoted  by 
the  liberal  provision  of  congress,  in  allowing  the  ports 
of  the  United  States  to  be  open  to  British  shipping  be- 
fore the  arrangement  could  be  carrried  into  effect  on 
the  part  of  Great  Britain,  thereby  requiting  a  similar 
act  of  liberality  on  the  part  of  the  British  government 
in  1825. 

He  has  recovered  claims  upon  the  Brazils,  Columbia, 
and  Denmark,  from  which  kingdom  the  payment  of 
650,000  dollars  is  secured  to  the  citizens  of  the  United 
States,  for  spoliations  upon  their  commerce  in  the  years 
1808,  9,  10,  and  11.  Similar  claims  upon  France,  for 
injuries  during  the  war,  have  also  been  lately  adjusted 
with  that  power. 

He  has  concluded  a  treaty  of  commerce  with  Mexico  ; 
and  by  another  with  Columbia,  he  has  freed  the  Ameri- 
can merchants  from  the  discriminating  duties  which  had 
been  imposed  upon  them  ;  and  by  another  with  Turkey 
he  has  secured  a  free  passage  for  American  merchant- 
men, without  limitation  of  time,  to  and  from  the  Black 
Sea,  by  which  their  trade  with  Turkey  is  placed  on  an 
equal  footing  with  that  of  other  nations. 

By  a  compact  made  between  the  United  States  and 
the  state  of  Georgia,  on  the  24th  of  April,  1802,  and 
long  before  any  gold  mines  were  thought  of,  the  United 
States  engaged  to  extinguish  for  the  use  of  Georgia, 
41  as  early  as  the  same  could  be  peaceably  obtained  on 
reasonable  terms,  the  Indian  title  to  the  county  of  Ta- 
lassee,  and  to  all  the  other  lands  within  the  state  of 
Georgia."  As  gold  mines,  within  two  or  three  years, 
have  been  discovered  in  that  state,  it  lias  naturally  fol- 
lowed,  that  the  inclination  of  the  Indians  to  remain,  and 


80  SIX    MONTHS 

that  of  the  Georgians  to  get  rid  of  them,  has  become 
far  more  decided  than  formerly.  The  Indians  (Chero- 
kees)  however,  claim  a  voice  in  the  affair  of  their  re- 
moval from  the  land  of  their  fathers ;  and  that  their  as- 
sertions have  other  foundations  than  those  of  an  appeal 
to  common  justice  and  humanity,  is  proved  by  the  fact, 
that  from  the  28th  of  November  1785,  the  general  govern- 
ment has  made  with  them  no  less  than  fifteen  different 
treaties,  thereby  plainly  acknowledging  their  indepen- 
dence, and  their  capacity  and  power  to  treat.  Within 
the  last  two  or  three  years,  however,  gold,  as  I  have  be- 
fore remarked,  has  been  discovered  on  the  territories  of 
the  Indians  ;  and  the  state  of  Georgia  has  applied  to  the 
general  government  to  fulfil  the  contract,  and  rid  them 
of  the  Cherokees.  The  general  government  would  be 
willing  to  come  to  a  proper  arrangement  with  the 
Cherokees,  but  they  are  unwilling  to  go.  The  number 
now  left  is  about  15,000  ;  the  remainder  of  the  tribe, 
since  the  year  1809,  having  acceded  to  the  offer  of  the 
United  States,and  removed  to  the  lands  provided  for 
them  beyond  the  Mississippi.  When  this  part  of  the 
tribe  petitioned  to  be  allowed  to  remove,  the  answer  of 
the  president  (Mr.  Madison)  contained  the  words, "  those 
who  are  willing  to  remove  may  be  assured  of  our  patron- 
age, our  aid,  and  our  good  neighbourhood."  The  Georgi- 
ans, however,  happen  to  think  that  this  is  just  the  time 
for  them  to  go,  and  they  forcibly  prevent  them  from 
digging  for  gold  on  their  own  land,  saying,  that  every 
year  will  but  increase  their  anxiety  to  remain  ;  and  that 
they  have  no  right  to  dig  for  geld  when  the  reversion  of 
the  land  is  in  the  state.  These  disputes  yet  remain 
unsettled. 

The  Cherokees  are  far  advanced  in  civilization ;  and 
have  among  them  men  of  very  superior  abilities.  They 
adopt  in  part  the  costume  of  Europeans ;  they  have 
schools,  and  churches,  and  a  printing  press  among  them  ; 
and  were  fully  competent  to  understand  the  following 

Srecious  piece  of  humbug,  forming  part  of  President 
ackson's  message  to  congress,  in  1830.  "  Humanity 
has  often  wept  over  the  fate  of  the  aborigines  of  this 
country ;  and  philanthropy  has  been  long  busily  em- 
ployed in  devising  means  to  avert  it ;  but  its  progress 
has  never  for  a  moment  been  arrested,  and  one  by  one 
have  many  powerful  tribes  disappeared  from  the  earth. 
To  follow  to  the  tomb  the  last  of  this  race,  and  to  tread 


IN    AMERICA.  81 

on  the  graves  of  extinct  nations,  excites  melancholy  re- 
flections. But  true  philanthropy  reconciles  the  mind 
to  these  vicissitudes,  as  it  does  to  the  extinction  of  one 
generation  to  make  room  for  another.  In  the  monu- 
ments and  fortresses  of  an  unknown  people  spread  over 
the  extensive  regions  of  the  west,  we  behold  the  memo- 
rials of  a  once  powerful  lace,  which  was  exterminated, 
or  has  disappeared,  to  make  room  for  the  existing  sav- 
age tribes,  &c.  &c.  The  tribes  which  occupied  the 
countries  now  constituting  the  eastern  states,  were  an- 
nihilated or  have  melted  away  to  make  room  for  the 
whites.  The  waves  of  population  and  civilization  are 
rolling  to  the  westward;  and  we  now  propose  to  acquire 
the  countries  occupied  by  the  red  men  of  the  south  and 
west,  by  a  fair  exchange,  and  at  the  expense  of  the 
United  States,  to  send  them  to  a  land  where  their  exist- 
ence may  be  prolonged  and  perhaps  made  perpetual. 
Doubtless  it  will  be  painful  to  leave  the  graves  of  their 
fathers;  but  what  do  they  more  than  our  ancestors  did, 
or  than  our  children  are  now  doing  ?  To  better  their 
condition  in  unknown  lands,  our  forefathers  left  all  that 
was  dear  in  earthly  objects ;  our  children  by  thousands 
yearly  leave  the  land  of  their  birth  to  seek  new  homes 
in  distant  regions.  Does  humanity  weep  at  these  pain- 
ful separations  from  every  thing  animate  and  inanimate 
with  which  the  young  heart  has  become  entwined?  Far 
from  it !  It  is  rather  a  source  of  joy  that  our  country 
affords  scope  where  our  young  population  may  range 
unconstrained  in  body  or  in  mind,  developing  the  power 
and  faculties  of  man  in  their  highest  perfection.  These 
remove  hundreds  and  almost  thousands  of  miles  at  their 
own  expense,  purchase  the  lands  they  occupy,  and  sup- 
port themselves  at  their  new  home  from  the  moment  of 
their  arrival.  Can  it  be  cruel  in  this  government,  when, 
by  events  which  it  cannot  control,  the  Indian  is  made 
discontented  with  his  ancient  home,  to  purchase  his 
lands,  to  give  him  a  new  and  extensive  territory,  to  pay 
the  expenses  of  his  removal,  and  support  him  a  year  in 
his  new  abode  ?  How  many  thousands  of  our  own  people 
would  gladly  embrace  the  opportunity  of  removing  to 
the  west  on  such  conditions.  If  the  offers  made  to  the 
Indians  were  extended  to  them,  they  would  be  hailed 
with  gratitude  and  joy. 

"  And  is  it  supposed  that  the  wandering  eavage  has  a 
stronger  attachment  to  his  home  than  the  settled,  civil- 


82  SIX    MONTHS 

ized  Christian  ?  Is  it  more  afflicting  to  him  to  leave  the 
graves  of  his  fathers,  than  it  is  to  our  brothers  and 
children  ?  Rightly  considered,  the  policy  of  the  general 
government  towards  the  red  man,  is  not  only  liberal  but 
generous.  He  is  unwilling  to  submit  to  the  laws  of  the 
states,  and  to  mingle  with  their  population.  To  save 
him  from  this  alternative,  or,  perhaps,  utter  annihila- 
tion, the  general  government  kindly  offers  him  a  new 
home ;  and  proposes  to  pay  the  whole  expense  of  his  re- 
moval and  settlement." 

I  will  here  introduce  a  few  remarks  on  what  is  called 
the  gold  region  in  the  United  States,  with  the  kind  as- 
sistance of  Mr.  Damm,  a  Swedish  gentleman  resident 
at  New  York,  and  connected  with  the  gold  mines.  I 
have  selected  them,  with  a  very  few  alterations,  from 
the  reports  on  the  subject  lately  published  by  the  govern- 
ment. It  is  now  about  thirty  years  since  gold  was  dis- 
covered in  North  Carolina ;  it  was  found  in  the  sand 
and  gravel  of  different  water-courses,  first  in  Cabarras 
county,  soon  afterwards  in  a  county  of  Montgomery  in 
that  state.  Until  within  a  few  years  past,  the  process 
of  washing  for  gold  was  principally  confined  to  the  two 
counties  just  named.  The  greater  portion  of  the  gold 
thus  procured  was  found  in  small  pieces,  varying  in  size 
from  one  pennyweight  down  to  particles  of  extreme 
minuteness ;  at  most  of  the  mines,  however,  it  is  not 
uncommon  to  find  pieces  of  a  much  larger  size ;  for  ex- 
ample, at  Cabarras,  a  single  piece  has  been  found  weigh- 
ing twenty-eight  pounds  avoirdupois,  besides  several 
other  pieces  varying  from  four  to  sixteen  pounds.  The 
proprietor  of  the  same  mine  affirms,  that  about  a  hun- 
dred pounds  avoirdupois  have  been  found  in  pieces, 
about  one  pound  in  weight ;  these  large  pieces,  however, 
compose  but  a  small  portion  of  the  whole  product  of  the 
mines. 

At  a  mine  in  Montgomery  county,  a  number  of  pieces 
of  about  one  pound  weight  have  been  found.  One  of 
them  weighed  four  pounds  eleven  ounces,  and  another 
three  pounds.  In  Anson  county,  during  the  summer  of 
1828,  a  piece  of  gold  weighing  ten  pounds,  another  of 
four  pounds  weight,  together  with  a  number  of  small 
pieces,  were  taken  up  out  of  the  sands  and  gravel  of 
Richardson's  creek.  These  discoveries  have  been  chiefly 
made  in  or  near  beds  of  streams ;  but  in  some  instances 


IN    AMERICA.  83 

deposites  of  considerable  extent  have  been  found  on  the 
sides  and  tops  of  hills. 

It  was  not,  however,  until  about  six  years  ago,  that 
the  gold  mines,  properly  speaking,  were  discovered  in 
North  Carolina,  that  is,  gold  in  regular,  well-defined 
veins.  This  discovery,  like  that  of  the  alluvial  deposits, 
was  in  some  measure  accidental.  A  person,  while 
washing  the  sand  and  gravel  of  a  small  rivulet  for  gold 
in  Montgomery  county,  observed  that  he  could  never 
find  it  beyond  a  certain  spot  in  ascending  the  stream ; 
but  at  the  point  where  the  gold  seemed  to  cease,  he  dis- 
covered a  quartz  vein  running  into  the  hill  on  one  side 
of  the  channel,  and  at  right  angles  with  the  course  of 
the  rivulet.  Having  frequently  taken  up  out  of  the  bed 
of  the  stream,  pieces  of  quartz  with  bits  of  gold  attached 
to  them,  he  came  to  the  conclusion  that  the  gold  found 
scattered  below,  must  have  come  out  of  the  vein  of 
quartz;  and  he  determined  to  pursue  it  into  the  hill. 
He  had  done  so  but  for  a  few  feet,  when  he  struck  a 
beautiful  deposit  of  the  metal  in  a  matrix  of  quartz,  and 
subsequently  another  in  carbonate  of  lime.  In  follow- 
ing this  vein  about  thirty  or  forty  feet  longitudinally, 
and  at  a  depth  of  not  more  than  fifteen  or  eighteen  feet, 
he  found  a  succession  of  what  are  technically  termed 
nests,  from  which  he  took  out  more  than  15,000  dwt.  of 
virgin  gold.  Soon  afterwards  the  mine  fell  into  other 
hands ;  and  the  working  of  the  vein  has  been  discon- 
tinued in  consequence  of  the  quantity  of  water  which 
made  its  appearance ;  though  it  is  understood  that 
it  will  be  resumed  in  a  short  time.  This  discovery  of 
the  metal  in  regular  veins,  presented  the  subject  in  a 
new  and  interesting  point  of  view;  and  directed  a  search 
for  gold  among  the  hills  and  high  grounds,  and  particu- 
larly for  veins  traversing  the  earth. 

In  the  course  of  the  summer,  after  the  developement 
of  Barringer's  mine,  some  valuable  mines  were  dis- 
covered in  Mecklenburgh  county.  The  product  of 
these,  worked  in  the  rudest  manner,  without  skill  or 
capital,  was  so  great  as  to  excite  general  notice ;  and 
stimulated  the  land-owners  in  that  section  to  search  for 
these  hidden  treasures.  The  mines  now  began  to  at- 
tract the  attention  of  the  public ;  and  several  persons  of 
enterprise,  and  some  capital,  repaired  to  the  spot.  Some 
of  them  made  investments,  began  to  erect  machinery, 
and  worked  the  veins  with  system  and  regularity.  The 


84  SIX    MONTHS 

success  of  the  first  adventurers  in  this  new  enterprise, 
and  for  a  time  the  attention  of  every  body  who  sought  to 
engage  hi  the  raining  business,  was  exclusively  turned 
towards  Mecklenburgh  county.  The  consequence  was, 
a  constant  search  for  gold  was  kept  up  in  that  county, 
and  not  unattended  with  success,  as  many  very  promis- 
ing veins  were  discovered.  These  Mecklenburgh  mines 
were  the  first  that  attracted  attention  ;  and  the  first  that 
were  examined  and  worked  with  skill  and  management. 
They  were,  of  course,  greatly  in  advance  of  every  other 
part  of  the  region,  and  the  products  have  been  greater  in 
proportion  to  the  labour,  and  capital,  and  skill  that  have 
been  applied  to  them. 

In  the  course  of  the  succeeding  year,  a  very  extensive 
and  rich  vein  was  discovered  in  Guilford  county;  and 
it  was  soon  operated  upon  by  more  than  one  hundred 
hands,  who  flocked  in  from  the  country  around,  and  re- 
ceived  permission  to  dig  there.  The  discovery  of  one 
vein  in  a  district,  furnishes  the  means  of  finding  others. 
The  people  of  the  neighbourhood  visit  it,  examine  the 
appearances  of  the  ores,  and  other  signs  and  indications, 
and  thus  in  some  degree  are  qualified  to  make  a  search 
on  their  own  lands  or  elsewhere.  This  was  the  case  in 
Guilford  county  ;  the  discovery  of  the  first  vein  was  soon 
followed  by  the  opening  of  several  others.  The  same 
plan  will  be  followed  in  every  district,  until  the  gold  re- 
gion be  explored,  and  the  places  which  exhibit  any 
external  signs  of  gold  be  thoroughly  known.  About  this 
time  Cabarras  county,  which  had  hitherto  been  only  con- 
sidered as  productive  in  its  washings,  was  ascertained  to 
be  a  vein-mining  district;  and  discoveries  to  the  sani'. 
effect  were  made  about  the  same  period  at  Lincoln. 

It  is  less  than  two  years  and  a  half  ago,  since  gold  in 
veins  was  first  discovered  in  Davidson  county ;  it  having 
previously  been  found  only  in  and  near  the  beds  of  rivu- 
lets and  creeks.  Within  the  last  few  months,  veins  have 
been  opened  in  the  adjoining  county  of  Randolph. 
Rowan,  situated  between  Davidson  and  Cabarras  coun- 
ties, embraces  a  considerable  section  of  the  gold  region, 
and  contains  many  veins  whose  external  appearance  is 
good  and  promising.  The  metal  is  also  found  in  the 
streams :  some  few  veins  have  also  been  opened  in  Ire- 
dell  county,  and  are  now  in  a  course  of  developement. 

While  progress  had  been  thus  making  in  opening 
veins,  and  in  ascertaining  their  situations,  some  valuable 


IN    AMECICA.  85 

discoveries  of  stream  deposits  occurred  in  a  section  of 
the  state  of  North  Carolina,  hitherto  not  suspected  to  be 
within  the  range  of  the  gold  region.  In  Burke  county, 
one  of  the  most  mountainous  of  the  state,  and  one,  two, 
or  more  feet  under  the  surface,  a  layer  of  sand  and 
gravel  is  found,  varying  from  a  few  inches,  sometimes  to 
more  than  a  foot,  in  thickness ;  in  this  layer  the  virgin 
gold  is  found,  generally  in  small  particles  about  the  size 
of  a  pin's  head,  and  very  often  as  large  as  a  grain  of 
corn ;  it  is  separated,  and  collected  from  the  accompany- 
ing matter,  by  washing.  Water  is  abundant ;  and  the 
absence  of  clay  and  adhesive  matter  in  the  auriferous 
layer,  makes  the  process  of  washing  exceedingly  easy. 
A  number  of  these  deposits  have  already  been  found, 
and  some  of  them  have  proved  to  be  very  productive. 
It  may  be  here  mentioned,  that  in  the  adjoining  county  of 
Rutherford,  gold  in  deposit  has  also  been  found ;  but  as 
yet,  not  much  labour  has  been  expended  in  that  quarter. 
One  vein,  which  is  very  encouraging,  has  been  worked 
regularly ;  another  vein  of  good  expectations  lias  been 
discovered. 

In  short  the  veins  and  places  of  deposit  are  very  nu- 
merous, and  scattered  over  the  whole  country,  with  a  few 
exceptions ;  and  the  gold  which  is  produced  finds  a  market 
so  readily,  that  it  is  difficult  to  give  a  very  correct  esti- 
mate of  the  product  of  mines  of  the  Carolinas,  Virginia, 
and  Georgia  ;  but  it  was  said  to  amount  to  500,000  dol- 
lars in  1830,  from  North  Carolina  alone.  During  that 
year,  nearly  the  whole  gold  coinage  of  the  United  States' 
mint,  was  from  native  gold.  The  coinage  was  643,105 
dollars  in  gold  coin :  of  this,  125,000  was  derived  from 
Mexico,  South  America,  and  the  West  Indies ;  19,000 
from  Africa,  466,000  from  the  gold  region  of  the  United 
States,  and  about  33,000  from  sources  not  ascertained. 
Of  the  gold  of  the  United  States  above  mentioned, 
24,000  may  be  stated  to  have  come  from  Virginia,  204,000 
from  North  Carolina,  26,000  from  South  Carolina,  and 
212,000  from  Georgia. 

It  may  not  be  out  of  place  here  to  remark,  that  here- 
after the  quantity  of  domestic  gold  that  will  be  received 
at  the  mint,  will  bear  a  less  proportion  to  the  whole 
amount  found,  than  has  been  the  case  heretofore ;  the 
reason  is  this:  hitherto,  Philadelphia  may  be  said  to 
have  been  nearly  the  only  market  for  the  article ;  gold- 
smiths and  merchants  at  New  York,  and  other  cities  in 


86  SIX    MONTHS 

the  Union,  were  unacquainted  with  it;  and  therefore 
for  fear  of  deception,  dealt  but  little  in  it ;  this  occasion- 
ed the  greater  part  of  the  gold  to  be  taken  to  Philadel- 
phia, where,  if  not  sold  to  the  goldsmiths  or  merchants, 
it  was  deposited  in  the  mint ;  so  that  at  all  events  a  por- 
tion of  it  always  contrived  to  reach  that  establishment. 
But  now  the  case  is  different :  a  market  for  the  gold  is 
opening  in  most  of  the  cities  of  the  United  States  :  gold- 
smiths and  jewellers,  having  ascertained  its  comparative 
purity,  which  is  said  to  be  greater  than  that  of  the  gold 
of  Mexico  or  the  Brazils,  will  generally  become  purcha- 
sers for  their  own  use. 

That  there  will  be  an  increase  in  the  products  of  the 
mines  every  succeeding  year,  admits  of  very  little  doubt, 
when  the  gradual  enlargement  of  the  gold  region,  ex- 
tending through  Virginia,  North  and  South  Carolina, 
and  Georgia — the  number  of  persons  turning  their  at- 
tention the  business — the  mills  that  are  now  erecting  in 
various  places — the  improvements  in  the  mode  of  work- 
ing and  general  management,  are  made  the  subject  of 
consideration. 

The  improvements  in  machinery  have  been  considera- 
ble within  the  last  two  years  :  it  is  believed,  however, 
that  as  yet  they  are  far  from  being  perfect.  The  defects 
in  the  present  mode  of  extracting  the  gold  are  well 
known  to  those  most  extensively  engaged  in  the  busi- 
ness ;  and  some  of  the  miners,  even  at  this  tune,  are 
turning  their  attention  towards  the  introduction  of  other 
methods,  promising  more  economy  and  greater  results. 
Grinding  the  ore  in  water  with  the  vertical  stone,  which 
is  the  method  practised  in  Chili,  is  now  the  process  most 
generally  used ;  but  the  liabilities  of  the  vertical,  or 
Chilian  mill,  to  become  disordered — the  waste  of  gold 
and  quicksilver — the  irregularity  of  results  from  the 
same  ores — the  want  of  proper  checks  on  the  workmen, 
together  with  minor  objections,  will  probably,  in  a  few 
years  more,  cause  these  mills  to  be  in  a  great  measure 
discontinued,  except  in  small  establishments,  and  for 
certain  classes  of  ores  in  the  larger  ones. 

The  auriferious  veins  of  North  Carolina  and  Virginia 
have  not  yet  been  sufficiently  developed.  As  yet  not  a 
single  shaft  in  the  whole  range  of  country  (except  at  the 
Charlotte  mine,  near  a  small  town  of  that  name,  worked 
under  the  direction  of  the  Chevalier  de  Rivafinoli)  has 
been  carried  down  to  the  depth  of  a  hundred  feet.  Se- 


IN    AMERICA.  87 

venty  to  eighty  feet  is  the  greatest  depth  yet  attained  ; 
and  thirty  feet  is  more  than  an  average  on  the  main  ex- 
cavation :  as  far,  ho  vvever,  as  these  experiments  have  gone, 
they  furnish  no  reason  to  doubt  the  durability  of  the  mines  ; 
for  thus  far,  the  well-defined  veins  not  only  retain  their 
first  size,  but,  in  many  cases,  become  larger,  and  more 
often  than  otherwise,  improve  in  richness.  This  cir- 
cumstance has  given  rise  to  an  idea  among  the  common 
workmen,  that  the  vein  grows  richer  about  the  time  it 
reaches  water.  On  the  whole,  when  it  is  considered,  that 
in  Mexico,  Saxony,  and  other  great  mining  districts, 
veins  have  been  successfully  followed  downwards  more 
than  2500  feet ;  the  probability  that  the  veins  in  the  Uni- 
ted States  will  improve,  is  at  least,  as  great  as  that  they 
will  become  poorer. 

Nor  is  it  in  the  nature  of  things,  that  any  considera- 
ble portion  of  the  whole  number  of  veins  existing 
there,  much  less  all  of  them,  have  already  been  disco- 
vered. 

The  usual  way  that  discoveries  are  made,  is  to  take 
some  of  the  earth  or  gravel  lying  on  the  top  of  the  rocks, 
and  wash  it  in  an  iron  pan.  If  any  fine  particles  of  gold 
are  found,  the  vein  is  known  to  be  auriferous,  and  its 
degree  of  richness  and  value  is  judged  of  by  a  variety 
of  circumstances.  This  fine  gold  without  doubt  comes 
out  of  the  vein,  the  top  of  which  had  been  disintegrated, 
and  fallen  to  pieces.  There  are  many  bold  veins  in 
every  district,  the  tops  of  which  show  no  gold,  whilst 
other  indicating  substances  are  abundant.  The  proba- 
bility is,  that  of  some  them  at  a  greater  depth  may 
prove  highly  auriferous. 

Reviewing  all  that  has  been  said  on  the  subject,  it  will 
be  seen  that  the  whole  business  is  yet  in  its  infancy  ;  and 
the  only  cause  for  wonder  is,  that  so  much  -  has  been 
done  in  so  short  a  time.  Ignorance  and  prejudice  were 
to  be  overcome,  and  ridicule  was  liberally  bestowed  on 
the  few  who  engaged  in  the  business. 

If  the  work  proceed  as  rapidly  for  some  years  to  come 
as  it  has  for  the  three  years  past,  the  changes  in  the  ap- 
pearance of  things  will  become  very  striking.  There 
are  some  persons  of  intelligence,  mostly  however  at  a 
distance,  who  seem  to  apprehend  that  the  mines  of  the 
United  States  will  produce  consequences  similar  to  those 
that  followed  to  Spain  and  her  colonies  from  the  discovery 
of  the  mines  of  South  America  and  Mexico.  Without 


88  SIX    MONTHS 

stopping  to  inquire  how  far  these  consequences  were  oc- 
casioned by  the  mines  of  the  new  world,  it  may  be  re- 
marked with  truth,  that  no  sort  of  analogy  is  to  be 
found  in  the  condition  and  circumstances  of  the  two 
countries  ;  and  that  neither  the  statesman  nor  the  philo- 
sopher need  anticipate  that  the  results  will  be  similar. 

That  great  effects  will  be  produced  is  beyond  ques- 
tion ;  and  these  will  show  themselves  in  the  increasing 
prosperity  of  the  country.  Among  the  advantages 
that  will  follow  from  the  developement  of  the  mines, 
is  the  encouragement  they  give  to  agriculture,  in  the 
withdrawal  of  some  of  its  surplus  labour,  and  giving 
it  new  employment.  They  will  create  home  markets 
for  the  surplus  products  of  the  farmer  ;  and  this  will 
encourage  him  to  improve  his  farm,  and  increase  the 
productiveness  of  his  lands.  As  yet,  this  influence 
has  not  been  much  felt;  but  a  close  observer  may  see 
that  the  improvement  has  commenced,  though  it  will 
not  be  generally  perceptible  until  the  division  of  labour 
more  fully  takes  place  between  the  farmer  and  the 
miner.  Mining  and  farming  are  two  very  different 
pursuits  ;  and  faimers  will  soon  see  that  it  is  prudent 
for  them  to  stick  to  the  plough,  and  sell  or  let  the  aurife- 
rous veins  to  the  miner. 

An  important  change  will  also  take  place  (at  a  very 
distant  period)  in  the  staples  of  the  gold  country ;  cotton 
will  be  less  and  less  cultivated  in  the  mining  districts ; 
while  the  bread  stuff,  farinaceous,  succulent  vegetables — 
and  stock,  will  claim  the  chief  attention.  This  change 
in  the  staples  of  the  agriculturist,  will  in  itself  produce 
important  results.  The  opening  of  the  mines,  and  the 
prospect  of  profitable  employment,  will  in  some  degree 
check  that  spirit  of  emigration  which  has  been  carrying 
off  so  many  enterprising  and  useful  citizens,  and  will 
bring  into  the  country  men  of  wealth,  intelligence,  busi- 
ness habits,  and  general  enterprise. 

The  opening  of  the  mines  has  been  attended  with  one 
primary  and  bad  effect ;  that  of  creating  a  mania  for 
speculation.  The  usually  attendant  failures  and  mishaps 
will  co-operate  with  other  causes,  to  throw  the  mines 
into  the  hands  of  a  distinct  class  of  men,  who,  having  a 
knowledge  of  the  business,  and  having  capital  at  com- 
mand, will  eventually  conduct  all  the  mining  operations 
in  the  country. 

Whether  the  effects  be  good  or  bad,  their  influence 


IN    AMERICA.  89 

will  not  be  confined  to  North  Carolina.  It  will  be  felt  in 
Virginia,  South  Carolina,  and  Georgia — the  people  in 
the  upper  parts  of  these  states  having  far  more  interest 
in  the  mines  than  is  generally  supposed. 

When  the  cheapness  of  obtaining  the  timber  neces- 
sary for  machinery,  the  certainty  of  labour,  and  the  se- 
curity of  property  under  such  a  government  as  that  of  the 
United  States,  are  deeply  considered ;  these  mines  might 
be  far  more  worth  the  attention  of  an  English  company 
than  many  a  scheme  in  which  English  capital  is  already 
embarked.  Applications  to  government  for  charters  will 
most  probably  be  more  numerous  in  every  succeeding 
year.  The  capital  required  to  form  a  company  would 
not,  I  was  informed,  exceed  40,000/.  or  50,000/. 

No  one  can  visit  the  United  States  without  hearing  of 
President  Jackson's  celebrated  "  veto"  on  internal  im- 
provements, and  every  disinterested  individual  would,  I 
liumbly  think,  be  ready  to  admit  that  the  sentiments  it 
contains  are  just  and  valuable,  because  they  display  a 
solid  attachment  to  the  letter  of  the  constitution.  By 
the  articles  of  the  constitution,  the  powers  of  the  federal 
government,  with  reference  to  its  expenditure  of  the  na- 
tional funds  upon  internal  improvements  in  the  Union, 
are  confined  to  the  establishment  of  post-offices  and  post- 
roads.  On  the  27th  May,  1830,  in  the  firm  persuasion 
that  the  words  "  post-roads"  could  apply  only  to  those 
which  might  prove  of  general  benefit  to  the  citizens  of 
the  Union,  and  not  to  those  which  conferred  an  advan- 
tage only  upon  the  inhabitants  of  any  particular  state,  a 
bill  entitled  "  An  Act  authorising  a  subscription  of  stock 
in  the  Maysville,  Washington,  Paris,  and  Lexington 
turnpike  road  Company,"  was  returned  by  the  president 
to  the  house  of  representatives,  without  having  received 
his  signature.  In  the  veto  by  which  it  was  accom- 
panied, he  shows  that  "  grants  for  internal  improvements 
from  the  national  treasury,  have  been  made  professedly 
under  the  control  of  the  general  principle,  that  the  works 
which  might  be  thus  aided  should  be  of  a  general,  not 
local — national,  nor  state  character ;  and  that  a  disregard 
of  this  distinction  would  of  necessity  lead  to  the  subver- 
sion of  the  federal  system.  The  road  in  question  had 
no  regard  to  any  general  system  of  improvements,  and 
was  exclusively  without  the  limits  of  the  state;  starting 
at  a  point  on  the  Ohio  river,  and  running  out  sixty  miles 
8* 


90  SIX    MONTHS 

to  an  interior  town,  and  even  as  far  as  that  state  was 
concerned,  of  partial,  not  general  advantage."  In  an- 
other part  of  the  veto  he  adds,  "  that  if  it  be  the  desire 
of  the  people,  that  the  agency  of  the  federal  government 
should  be  confined  to  the  appropriation  of  money  in 
aid  of  such  undertakings  in  virtue  of  state  authority; 
then  the  occasion,  the  manner,  and  the  extent  of  the  ap- 
propriations, should  be  made  the  subject  of  constitutional 
regulation."  In  about  three  years,  the  national  debt  of 
the  United  States  will  be  paid  off,  and  the  government 
will  find  itself  in  the  possession  of  a  surplus  revenue  of 
ten  or  twelve  millions  of  dollars.  To  divide  it  amongst 
the  states  would  be  unconstitutional,  because  it  will  ren- 
der the  states  too  dependent  on  the  favour  of  the  fede- 
ral government ;  and  as  it  is  collected  chiefly  by  means 
of  the  tariff,  it  cannot  cease  to  exist  so  long  as  the  tariff 
remains  in  force. 

Without  a  limited  and  denning  authority,  arising 
from  a  constitutional  adjustment  of  this  power  of  distri- 
bution upon  equitable  principles,  it  is  beyond  a  doubt 
that  neither  Mr.  Clay,  nor  any  other  person  who  may 
be  president,  could  give  any  thing  like  universal  satis- 
faction amid  the  "  scramble  for  appropriations," — as 
the  veto  has  it, — which  could  not  but  ensue  upon  the 
conflicting  and  uncontrollable  variety  of  interest  that  is 
annually  increasing  in  the  American  community. 

The  progress  of  reform  in  England,  and  in  Europe 
generally,  is  watched  with  the  most  intense  interest  by 
the  Americans.  A  deep  feeling  of  regard  and  sympa- 
thy for  the  mother  country,  as  they  term  it,  is  still  gene- 
ral, and  I  think  increasing ;  and  though  most  of  the 
Americans  believe  their  own  country  is  the  first  in  the 
world,  they  are  still  reasonable  enough  to  assign  to 
Great  Britain  the  second  place  in  the  scale  of 
nations.  Those  airs  which  it  must  be  admitted  so 
frequently  render  an  Englisliman  ridiculous,  when 
travelling  on  the  old  continent,  would  be  entirely  thrown 
away  in  the  United  States.  All  pretensions  to  import- 
ance are  disregarded,  even  without  being  canvassed,  as 
they  might  be  in  Europe  ;  but  so  long  as  an  Englishman 
behaves  with  propriety,  the  Americans  will  entertain 
more  respect  for  his  name  and  character,  than  they  care 
to  avow  openly.  They  wish  us  well  through  our  troubles, 
and  watch  with  sincere  pity  what  they  consider  to  be  the 


IN    AMERICA.  91 

approaching  downfall  of  our  constitution  :  but  at  the 
same  time  their  national  vanity  receives  something  very 
like  gratification  from  the  belief,  that  we  shall  be  forced 
to  adopt  a  form  of  government  similar  to  their  own. 
That  the  American  form  of  government  is  admirably 
adapted  to  a  new  country,  that  that  country  has  astonish- 
ing resources,  and  that  the  Americans  lose  no  time  in 
making  the  most  of  them,  (I  speak  of  America  as  a 
country,  not  of  the  Union,  for  America  must  thrive 
come  what  will  to  the  government,)  that  it  has  thriven 
under  its  institutions,  and  is  at  present  enjoying  an  ex- 
emption from  many  evils  incidental  to  older  countries, 
it  would  be  an  absurdity  to  deny.  But  the  natural 
causes  of  prosperity  which  the  Americans  so  pre-eminent- 
ly enjoy,  must  not  be  mistaken,  as  they  most  fondly  and 
frequently  are,  for  the  positive  effects,  and  little  more 
than  the  positive  effects,  of  a  good  government,  however 
good  and  well  adapted  that  government  may  be.  The 
American  constitution  has  never  been  tried.  That  it 
was  nearly  a  bankrupt  at  the  close  of  the  last  war,  was  a 
trial  of  the  resources  of  the  country,  not  of  its  institutions. 
Forty  years  is  no  time  to  test  the  strength  of  a  govern- 
ment like  that  of  the  United  States,  when  civilization  is  ex- 
tended over  so  small  a  proportion  of  them.  The  good 
is  perceived  at  present ;  the  evils  are  latent,  and  com- 
paratively little  felt.  But  there  are  among  the  institutions 
of  the  Union  the  seeds  of  discord  and  confusion,  whose 
growth  is  only  stifled  by  the  bustle  of  commercial  pur- 
suits, and  that  panacea  for  every  political  disease,  a  fine 
country,  abounding  in  resources,  and  of  small  popula- 
tion in  comparison  to  its  extent.  It  is  possible  that  the 
mischief  will  riot  be  felt,  so  long  as  there  is  no  real  mo- 
tive for  disaffection  :  so  long  in  fact  as  the  people  are 
not  in  want,  which  may  not  be  the  case  while  ground 
yet  remains  to  be  cultivated. 

In  England  and  America  universal  suffrage  would 
be  alike  only  in  name.  In  America  it  is  true,  that  al- 
most every  one  can  vote;  but  then  it  is  equally  true, 
that  excepting  in  the  larger  cities  in  which  may  be  al- 
ways found,  even  in  America,  a  certain  proportion  of 
persons  without  any  ostensible  means  of  getting  a 
livelihood,  every  one  has  at  least  a  prospective  cer- 
tainty of  the  acquisition  of  property.  The  poor, 
comparatively  speaking,  are  so  few,  that  universal  suf- 
frage is,  at  present,  but  a  mere  hydra  in  embryo. 


92  SIX    MONTHS 

Were  the  present  course  of  improvement  to  proceed 
without  interruption,  from  what  the  political  econo- 
mists call  the  disturbing  causes, — were  luxury  to  be 
kept  at  a  distance,  and  a  forced  equality  and  content- 
ment to  be  preserved  by  a  strong  and  universal  exer- 
tion of  the  democratic  principle, — it  would  be  demon- 
strable, that  the  American  constitution  would  last  for 
centuries;  or  in  other  words,  till  the  country  became  so 
thickly  peopled  as  to  be  subject  to  the  evils  resulting 
ta  England,  and  the  other  dynasties  of  Europe.  If  a 
democracy  be  essentially  the  bent  form  of  government, 
it  would  follow  that  a  surplus  population,  that,  unhap- 
py proof  of  its  excellence,  would  but  be  called  the  soon- 
er into  existence.  Then  will  come  the  real  moment  of 
trial,  whether  a  democracy  can  exist  under  the  pres- 
sure of  want — whether  those  that  have  any  thing  to 
lose,  would  not  be  at  the  mercy  of  those  that  have 
not — whether  an  equality  of  condition  would  not  be 
considered  as  conferring  a  title  to  a  community  of 
goods — whether,  when  such  a  state  of  things  is  appre- 
hended, a  standing  armed  force,  be  it  called  by  what 
name  it  may,  would  not  be  necessary,  not  to  repress 
foreign  invasion,  but  to  put  down  domestic  commo- 
tions— whether  taxes  must  not  be  levied  for  its  sup- 
port— and  whether  those  taxes  would  not  be  found  ex- 
ceedingly troublesome.  In  an  article  in  the  American 
Quarterly  Review,  (July  1831,)  evidently  written  in  a 
wantonness  of  spirit  that  savours  of  ambition,  or  dis- 
appointment, or  of  both,  and  in  which  we  are  kindly 
told  the  easiest  road  to  ruin,  it  is  remarked  that  u  our 
forefathers  were  habituated  to  the  European  system, 
but  they  built  up  the  republican  colonies  with  infinite 
ease."  But  may  it  not  be  here  remarked,  that  as  it  is 
the  boast,  and  justly  the  boast,  of  the  Americans,  and 
of  the  New  Englanders  in  particular,  that  the  tone  of 
liberty  which  pervades  their  institutions  is  derived 
through  the  blood  of  the  Puritans,  who  did  build  up 
the  colonies  with  infinite  ease,  and  whose  descendants 
are  still  living;  so  it  must  not  be  forgotto.i  that  the 
Hampdens,  the  Hazelrigs,  the  Cromwells,  and  others, 
who  were  prevented  from  embarking  for  America  by 
the  order  of  their  obstinate  and  ill-fated  monarch, 
were  men  of  the  same  opinions  as  the  "forefathers" 
mentioned  above  ;  that  they  did  remain  behind — that 


IN    AMERICA.  93 

they  did  fight  against  the  monarchy  of  England — that 
they  did  obtain  the  victory — that  ihey  did  enjoy  the 
ascendancy  to  their  hearts'  content — and  that  they  did 
establish  a  commonwealth  in  England,  not  to  flourish 
for  ever  as  an  example  to  the  world,  but  to  be  over- 
thrown by  a  military  force,  which  brought  back  the 
son  of  the  last  king  amid  the  acclamations  of  every 
rank  of  society. 

Supposing  the  blood  to  be  shed,  and  the  horrors  to 
be  passed  through,  that  must  be  shed  and  passed 
through  before  the  experiment  of  a  commonwealth 
could  be  again  tried  in  England,  is  it  possible  that  it 
could  exist,  situated  as  Great  Britain  is  with  reference 
to  the  other  powers  of  Europe,  without  an  unemploy- 
ed standing  army  ?  and  then  again,  is  it  possible  that 
it  could  exist  with  one?  Where  in  the  annals  of  the 
world  can  the  compatibility  of  the  one  and  the  other 
be  pointed  to?  England  is  but  paying  the  penalty 
necessarily  consequent  on  her  career  of  prosperity. 
Her  constitution  can  no  more  be  blamed  for  the  exist- 
ence of  a  standing  army,  than  for  a  superabundant 
population,  or  the  enormous  size  of  London. 

By  what  then  is  it  probable  that  the  career  of  the 
Union  will  be  disturbed  ?  Are  not  wealth  and  luxury 
to  have  their  due  weight  ?  It  is  to  the  credit  of  the 
Americans,  that  individual  wealth  has  never  yet  been 
employed  for  any  unconstitutional  purpose;  but  it  is 
nevertheless  true,  that  an  aristocracy  is  most  undeni- 
ably springing  up  in  every  city  of  the  Union.  In  the 
course  of  time  many  large  fortunes  will  be  amassed, 
and  opulent  families  will  be  distributed  throughout 
the  country.  It  will  be  but  in  the  spirit  of  human  na- 
ture, that  a  person  in  possession  of  what  in  common 
American  would  be  termed  "  an  elegant  location," 
should  wish  to  have  upon  it  a  better  house  than  his 
neighbours,  and  that  another  should  wish  to  have  a 
still  better;  and  is  it  to  be  believed  that  the  head  of  a 
rich  and  ambitious  family  will  be  for  ever,  as  now,  re- 
strained by  the  voice  of  public  opinion  from  doing  his 
utmost  to  prevent  a  fine  place  from  going  out  of  his 
family.  Can  the  inclination  remain  in  thraldom,  and 
the  man  be  said  to  enjoy  liberty  ?  Will  not  one  exam- 
ple be  followed  as  a  precedent  by  five  hundred  others  ? 
and  will  not  an  hereditary  aristocracy  be  produced  in 
this  manner? 


94  SIX    MONTHS 

The  system  of  entails  in  England  is  considered  by  the 
Americans  as  highly  pernicious;  but  their  idea  of  its 
extent  is  far  beyond  the  truth.  On  this  head  I  have 
heard  great  ignorance  displayed  by  them.  Some  think 
that  an  entailed  estate  cannot  be  destroyed  at  all;  but 
that  an  entailed  estate  cannot,  in  any  case,  be  destroy- 
ed without  the  consent  of  the  eldest  son,  is  the  more 
common  error ;  one  which  is  prevalent  with  the  unini- 
tiated even  in  England,  and  is,  of  course,  still  more  so 
among  the  Americans,  who  are  but  little  aware  that 
an  estate  cannot,  in  any  case,  be  rendered  unalienable 
for  more  than  one  generation ;  or,  technically  speak- 
ing,  for  more  than  a  life  or  lives  in  being,  and  twenty- 
one  years  afterwards.  This  rule  has  been  a  favorite 
with  English  lawyers,  because,  on  the  one  hand,  it 
prevents  landed  property  from  being  unavailable  for 
commercial  purposes  for  a  longer  period  than  one  gen- 
eration ;  and,  on  the  other,  it  makes  reasonable  allow- 
ance for  the  English  policy  of  keeping  up  the  fami- 
lies of  our  nobility  and  gentry.  From  whence  then 
does  the  vulgar  error  principally  arise?  From  this 
circumstance  :  under  the  usual  form  of  settlement,  the 
father  has  the  present  enjoyment  of  the  estate,  and 
the  son  has  the  inheritance  in  tail  in  expectancy  ;  and 
in  this  case  the  father  and  son,  as  soon  as  the  latter  is 
of  age,  may  do  what  they  please  with  the  estate  ;  and 
it  is  a  very  common  arrangement  for  them  to  agree  to 
make  a  fresh  settlement,  which  ties  up  the  estate  for 
another  generation.  But  this  is  only  an  exercise  of 
their  absolute  power  of  disposal,  which  they  might,  if 
they  pleased,  exercise  by  selling  the  estate,  or  other- 
wise getting  rid  of  it.  If  no  fresh  settlement  has  been 
made,  and  the  son  outlives  the  father,  he  alone  may 
do  what  he  pleases  with  the  estate,  without  asking  the 
consent  of  his  eldest  son  or  of  any  other  person.  The 
Americans  are  little  aware  that  there  is  not  a  noble- 
man's estate  in  the  country,  with  the  exception  of 
Blenheim,  Strathfieldsay,  and  perhaps  half  a  dozen 
others,  where  the  reversion  is  in  the  crown  under  some 
rery  old  grant,  which  could  not  be  absolutely  disposed 
of,  once,  at  least,  in  every  generation.  That  there  is  a 
power  of  making  unalienable  entails  in  Scotland, 
(with  irritant  and  resolutive  clauses,  as  the  Scotch 
lawyers  have  it,)  where  the  person  making  them  is  not 


IN    AMERICA. 


95 


indebted  at  the  time,  is  a  truth  which  I  do  not  con- 
ceive could  have  given  rise  to  the  error  respecting 
those  in  England. 

The  proceedings  at  the  next  session  of  congress  will 
be  of  the  utmost  importance,  and  before  this  work  be 
out  of  the  press,  the  tariff  question  will  probably  have 
given  rise  to  as  much  angry  discussion  as  has  ever  been 
heard  within  the  walls  of  the  capitol. 

The  tariff,  that  is  to  say,  the  principle  of  effectual 
protection  to  domestic  industry,  is  supported  by  about 
two-thirds  of  the  American  people.  Manufactures 
sprung  up  during  the  late  war,  and  millions  of  dollars 
have  since  been  invested  in  them  on  the  faith  of  the 
tariff.  After  the  conclusion  of  hostilities,  the  war  du- 
ties were  repealed  generally  ;  but  some  of  them  were 
continued  for  the  protection  oT  domestic  industry. 
This  was  effected  in  1816,  and  by  the  influence  of  the 
southern  votes  ;  and,  strange  as  it  may  appear,  was  es- 
pecially supported  by  the  members  of  South  Carolina ; 
whilst  the  northern  members  were  not  generally  par- 
tial to  the  measure.  The  southern  states  at  that  period, 
were  averse  to  the  expense  of  a  naval  establishment: 
they  disliked  foreign  commerce,  because  it  tended  to 
embroil  the  country  in  disputes  with  the  European 
powers,  and  they  were  therefore  friendly  to  a  moderate 
tariff.  In  1824,  additional  protection  was  given  to 
manufactures.  It  was  opposed  by  New  England  and 
the  south,  and  supported  by  the  middle  and  western 
states.  In  1828,  still  further  protection  was  given,  not- 
withstanding a  violent  opposition  from  the  southern 
states,  who  now  felt  the  error  they  had  been  guilty  of. 

The  tariff  question,  then,  is  simply  this.  The  north- 
ern states  are  manufacturers ;  the  southern  states  are 
cotton  growers.  The  southern  states  have  never  ob- 
jected to  such  duties  on  imported  foreign  manufactures, 
as  would  be  sufficient  for  the  purposes  of  a  revenue 
equal  to  the  government  expenditure  ;  but  beyond  what 
is  necessary  for  the  attainment  of  that  object,  they  are 
entirely  averse  to  the  tariff,  because  Great  Britain  does 
not  buy  so  much  of  their  cotton  as  she  would  if  her 
manufactured  goods  were  not  excluded  from  the  mar- 
kets of  the  United  States,  by  means  of  the  protecting 
duties.  The  inhabitants  of  South  Carolina  are  most 
violently  opposed  to  the  tariff.  One-third  of  them 


96  SIX    MONTHS 

would,  if  they  could,  secede  from  the  Union  immedi- 
ately. 

In  the  year  1823,  the  crop  of  cotton  amounted  to 
420,000  bales.  In  the  year  1831,  the  crop  has  been  as- 
certained to  be  1,070,000  bales,  of  which,  165,000  are 
consumed  in  the  Home  manufactories,  and  the  remain- 
der is  exported,  chiefly  to  England. 

Certainly,  if  ever  there  was  a  country  upon  earth 
where  the  principles  of  free  trade  could  be  allowed  an 
existence,  that  country  is  the  states  of  North  America, 
so  long  as  they  remain  united.  When  we  contemplate 
their  unbounded  resources,  and  their  endless  extent,  we 
must  admit  that  they  afford  scope  for  a  species  of  energy 
altogether  without  present  parallel  in  the  old  continent ; 
and  it  is  difficult  to  believe,  that  free  trade  should  not  be 
a  part  of  their  system,  not  only  because  it  would  cor- 
respond with  the  boasted  freedom  of  their  institutions, 
but  on  account  of  the  certainty  of  benefit  they  would 
ultimately  derive  from  it.  But  from  the  entirely  dif- 
ferent sources  of  wealth  of  the  northern  and  southern 
states,  there  emanates  a  disparity  of  interests,  which, 
with  reference  to  the  enormously  increasing  influence 
of  the  new  cotton  states,  are,  it  is  plain,  but  partially 
developed  at  present.  The  settlement  of  disputes  aris- 
ing from  the  differences  of  soil  and  climate,  in  them- 
selves uncontrollable  by  legislative  interference,  must 
be  a  subject  far  more  difficult  to  grapple  with,  than  that 
which  merely  relates  to  internal  improvements,  which 
may  be  assisted  by  an  alteration  of  the  constitution. 
Many  Americans  will  probably  tell  you,  as  they  have 
told  me,  that  the  Union  is  becoming  stronger  and 
stronger ;  they  will  assure  you  that  there  is  a  growing 
conviction,  that  the  complaints  of  the  southern  states 
are  without  foundation,  that  their  sufferings  are  chiefly 
imaginary,  and  that  their  citizens  will,  sooner  or  later, 
come  to  the  same  opinion  ;  that  four-fifths  of  all  the  ar- 
ticles'that  are  taxed,  either  heavily  or  lightly,  are  con- 
sumed in  the  northern,  western,  and  the  tariff  states, 
while  at  the  same  time,  a  home  market  exists  for  from 
150,000  to  200,000  bales  of  the  best  cotton  of  the  south- 
ern states,  at  the  best  prices :  that  the  party  war  which 
rages  in  newspapers  throughout  the  Union,  means 
nothing  at  all ;  and  that,  to  use  the  quotation  so  well  ap- 
plied by  Mr.  Adams  in  his  last  4th  of  July  oration,  de- 
livered at  Quincy,  near  Boston,  *4  We  angry  lovers  mean 


IN    AMERICA.  97 

not  half  we  say."  It  is  probable  that  some  part  of  what 
is  said  by  an  American  country  newspaper  on  the  sub- 
ject of  party,  may  be  nonsense;  but  one  cannot  help 
being  a  little  sceptical,  when  higher  authorities,  and  the 
proceedings  of  public  meetings,  are  consulted,  which,  if 
we  are  to  judge  by  the  excitement  they  occasion,  are 
not  quite  a  farce,  whatever  county  meetings  may  be  in 
England. 

The  report  of  the  committee  read  at  the  anti-tariff 
convention,  which  took  place  at  Philadelphia  on  the  5th 
of  October,  1831,  contains  amongst  others,  the  following 
strongly  worded  passage,  speaking  of  "  that  feeling  of 
resentment  which  is  goaded  into  activity  by  a  sense  of 
oppression,  and  embittered  by  the  recollection,  that  it 
is  the  hand  of  a  brother  that  inflicts  it,"  it  proceeds, 
"do  you  doubt  its  existence,  its  nature,  or  degree? 
look  to  the  character  of  this  assembly,  and  the  cir- 
cumstances under  which  it  is  convened :  give  your 
attention  to  the  history  of  the  past,  and  be  admonished 
by  the  novel  and  extraordinary  spectacle  which  is  pre- 
sented to  your  view — do  not  close  your  eyes  altogether 
to  the  fact,  that  this  assembly  is  without  parallel  in  the 
annals  of  the  government ;  that  we  are  freemen,  and  the 
representatives  of  freemen,  who  speak  to  you  of  our 
violated  rights ;  that  we  have  come  from  different,  and 
distant  parts  of  the  Union,  to  join  in  demanding  their 
restoration;  that  a  consciousness  of  strength  is  the  off- 
spring of  united  counsel;  and  that  our  purpose  is  not  the 
less  firm,  because  it  is  announced  to  you  peaceably,  and 
in  the  spirit  of  conciliation."  The  reports  of  the  differ- 
ent committees  of  investigation,  appointed  by  the  oppo- 
sition or  tariff  convention,  which  commenced  its  sittings 
at  New  York  on  the  26th  of  October,  had  not  appeared 
in  print  when  I  quitted  America. 

Mr.  Adams,  a  strong  tariff  man,  and  residing  in  the 
heart  of  the  tariff  states,  in  his  last  4th  of  July  oration, 
speaking  of  the  doctrine  of  "  nullification,"  which,  he 
says,  "  contains  within  itself  an  absurdity,  importing  a 
pretending  right  of  one  state  in  this  Union,  by  virtue  of 
her  sovereignity,  to  make  that  null  and  void  which  it 
pre-supposes  to  be  null  and  void  before,"  proceeds,  by 
saying,  "  that  it  is  a  principle  under  which  the  pillars  of 
the  Union  are  tottering  while  he  is  speaking."  On  the 
other  side,  Mr.  Calhoun,  at  the  head  of  the  anti-tariff 
party,  and  one  of  the  cleverest  men  in  America,  in  his 
9 


98  SIX    MONTHS 

"  sentiments  upon  the  subject  of  state  rights  and  tariff," 
says,  that  "  whatever  diversity  of  opinion  may  exist  in 
relation  to  the  principle,  or  the  effect  on  the  productive 
industry  of  the  country  of  the  present,  or  any  other  tariff 
of  protection,  there  are  certain  political  consequences 
flowing  from  the  present  which  none  can  doubt,  and  all 
must  deplore.  It  would  be  in  vain  to  attempt  to  con- 
ceal, that  it  has  divided  the  country  into  two  great  geo- 
graphical divisions,  and  arrayed  them  against  each 
other,  in  opinion  at  least  if  not  in  the  interest  also, 
on  some  of  the  most  vital  of  political  subjects— on  its 
finance,  its  commerce,  and  its  industry — subjects  calcu- 
lated above  all  others,  in  the  time  of  peace,  to  produce 
excitement,  and  in  relation  to  which  the  tariff  has  placed 
the  sections  in  question  in  deep  and  dangerous  conflict. 
If  there  be  any  point  on  which  the  (I  was  going  to  say 
southern  section,  but  to  avoid,  as  far  as  possible,  the  pain- 
ful feelings  such  discussions  are  calculated  to  excite,  I 
shall  say)  weaker  of  the  two  sections  is  unanimous,  it  is 
that  its  prosperity  depends  in  a  great  measure  on  free 
trade,  light  taxes,  economical  and,  as  far  as  possible, 
equal  disbursements  of  the  public  revenue,  and  an  un- 
shackled industry  ;  leaving  them  to  pursue  whatever  may 
appear  most  advantageous  to  their  interests.  From  the 
Potomac  to  the  Mississippi  there  are  few  indeed,  how- 
ever divided  on  other  points,  who  would  not,  if  depend- 
ent on  their  volition,  and  if  they  regarded  the  interest 
of  their  particular  section  only,  remove  from  commerce 
and  interest  every  shackle,  reduce  the  revenue  to  the 
lowest  point  that  the  wants  of  the  government  fairly  re- 
quired, and  restrict  the  appropriations  to  the  most  mode- 
rate scale,  consistent  with  the  peace,  the  security,  and 
the  engagements  of  the  public ;  and  who  do  not  believe 
that  the  opposite  system  is  calculated  to  throw  on  them 
an  unequal  burthen,  to  repress  their  prosperity,  and  to 
encroach  on  their  enjoyment.  On  all  these  deeply  im- 
portant measures  the  opposite  opinion  prevails,  if  not 
with  equal  unanimity,  with  at  least  a  greatly  prepon- 
derating majority  hi  the  other  and  stronger  section,  so 
that  no  two  distinct  nations  ever  entertained  more  op- 
posite views  of  policy  than  these  two  sections  do  on  all 
the  important  points  to  wliich  I  have  referred,"  &c.  &,c. 
"  The  system,"  he  ados  in  a  note,  "  if  continued,  must 
end,  not  only  in  subjecting  the  industry  and  property 
of  the  weaker  section  to  the  control  of  the  stronger,  but 


IN    AMERICA.  99 

in  proscription  and  political  disfranchisement.  It  must 
finally  control  elections  and  appointments  to  offices,  as 
well  as  acts  of  legislation,  to  the  great  increase  of  the 
feelings  of  animosity,  and  of  the  fatal  tendency  to  a  com- 
plete alienation  between  the  sections." 

The  remedy  proposed  by  Mr.  Calhoun  appears  ex- 
ceedingly  reasonable.  In  three  years  the  national  debt 
of  the  United  States  will  be  paid  off,  and  the  government 
will  find  itself  in  possession  of  a  surplus  revenue  of 
10,000,000  or  12,000,000  of  dollars,  chiefly  arising  from 
tariff  duties.  The  applications  from  the  different  states 
for  its  appropriation  under  the  internal  improvement 
system  will  be  innumerable,  and  it  will  be  impossible  to 
grant  them  without  adding  a  stimulus  to  old  causes  of 
jealousy,  and  giving  births  to  new  ones.  To  adopt  the 
system  of  dividing  the  money  between  the  different 
states  is  admitted,  on  all  hands,  to  be  unconstitutional, 
not  only  because  no  such  power  is  given  by  the  articles 
of  the  constitution,  but  because  the  exercise  of  it  would 
tend  to  render  the  individual  states  too  dependent  on  the 
favour  of  the  general  government.  Mr.  Calhoun  recom- 
mends,  that  the  money  should  be  left  in  the  pockets  of 
the  people,  and  affirms  that  there  is  but  one  "  effectual 
cure — an  honest  reduction  of  the  duties  to  a  fair  system 
of  revenue,  adapted  to  the  just  and  constitutional  wants 
of  the  government,  and  that  nothing  short  of  this  will 
restore  the  country  to  peace,  harmony  and  mutual  affec- 
tion." 

The  example  of  good  citizenship  displayed  by  Mas- 
sachusetts during  the  existence  of  the  embargo  in 
1807,  is  now  referred  to  as  worthy  of  imitation  by  the 
southern  states;  a  total  stagnation  of  the  trade  of 
that  state  was  the  consequence  of  the  Berlin  decree, 
and  the  retaliatory  orders  in  council  of  the  British  go- 
vernment; and  in  the  opinion  that  the  embargo  was 
unconstitutional,  the  question  was  tried  before  the  su- 
preme court  of  the  United  States,  who  decided  in  fa- 
vour of  the  authority  of  the  general  government. 
Massachusetts  behaved  with  the  best  grace  imagin- 
able, conscious  that  there  was  no  medium  between 
submission  and  separation, — no  alternative  but  acqui- 
escence or  disunion.  Her  behaviour  might  be  imita- 
ted, but  under  very  different  circumstances.  In  the 
case  of  Massachusetts,  the  cause  of  the  evil  was  un- 
derstood :  it  was  external :  it  could  be  removed ;  or 


100  SIX    MONTHS 

rather  would  some  day  cease  as  a  matter  of  course ; 
but  with  South  Carolina,  the  disease  is  internal,  exist- 
ing in  the  time  of  peace,  increasing,  and  most  likely, 
beyond  the  reach  of  any  but  a  temporary  remedy. 

The  first  intimation  I  had  of  the  existence  of  the 
tariff  was  likely  to  have  been  a  disagreeable?  one. 
When  I  landed  at  New  York  I  had  with  me  an  excel- 
lent double-barrelled  fowling-piece ;  and  I  was  told  that 
I  must  either  pay  thirty  per  cent  on  its  full  value,  or  I 
could  deposit  it  in  safe-keeping  at  the  custom-house  till  my 
return;  and  in  the  mean  time  I  could  purchase  an 
American  gun  cheap ;  I  was  indebted  to  the  liberality  of 
the  gentleman  presiding  at  the  head  of  the  custom-house, 
who,  upon  hearing  from  a  friend  that  I  had  not  brought 
it  to  sell,  but  merely  for  my  pleasure,  politely  and  im- 
mediately gave  me  an  order  for  it 

The  climate  of  Washington  has  undergone  a  conside- 
rable alteration  within  the  memory  of  those  who  have 
known  it  for  the  last  forty  years.  Its  healthiness  has 
by  no  means  increased  as  the  forest  has  disappeared  ;  on 
the  contrary,  the  reverse  effect  has  rather  been  produced. 
The  real  nature  of  a  climate  cannot  be  known  till  it  has 
been  rendered  fit  for  the  habitation  of  man ;  and  no  land 
can  be  said  to  be  in  that  condition,  till  it  has  been  par- 
tially cleared  and  cultivated.  The  process  in  some 
places  renders  the  climate  warmer,  and  in  others  it  has 
the  effect  of  producing  more  cold  ;  so  that  it  does  not 
always  follow  that  clearing  is  productive  of  beneficial 
results.  Since  the  forests  of  the  Pyrenees  have  been 
gradually  cut  down  and  destroyed,  the  south  of  France 
is  not  nearly  so  desirable  a  residence  for  invalids  as  it 
was  formerly.  In  Germany,  a  good  effect  has  been 
produced  ;  but  not  so  at  Washington.  The  summer  is 
still  excessively  hot,  (the  thermometer  ranging  above 
ninety  in  the  shade,)  and  the  winter  very  cold :  originally 
these  two  seasons  almost  divided  the  year  between  them  ; 
but  now,  the  weather  exhibits  far  more  of  the  variable- 
ness of  the  climate  of  England.  The  vicissitudes  of 
temperature  are  often  painful,  and  frequently  and  rapidly 
produced  by  the  most  violent  and  piercing  gusts  of  wind 
from  the  north-west  The  cold  of  winter,  although  still 
very  severe,  has  been  much  mitigated  of  late  years.  In 
1780,  the  bay  of  the  Chesapeake  was  solid  ice  from  its 
head  to  the  mouth  of  the  Potomac ;  and  in  some  places, 


IN  AMERICA.  101 

at  Annapolis  for  instance,  from  five  to  seven  inches 
thick.  In  1772,  the  snow  in  the  district  of  Washington 
was  nearly  three  feet  deep,  and  in  some  places  it  drifted 
to  the  depth  of  ten  or  twelve.  The  length  and  severity 
of  the  winters  have  much  abated  :  but  still  the  climate, 
as  I  was  informed  by  a  gentleman  perfectly  acquainted 
with  the  subject,  has  not  become  more  healthy.  In  the 
year  1829,  the  average  number  of  deaths  for  the  last  ten 
years,  has  been  one  in  every  fifty-three.  The  greatest 
mortality  prevails  in  the  month  of  August,  and  the  cases 
are  chiefly  those  of  fever.  It  is  owing  to  the  malignity 
and  greater  variety  of  diseases,  accidents,  and  privations, 
to  which  the  poorer  inhabitants  of  the  more  thickly 
peopled  cities  are  liable,  that  the  annual  mortality  at 
New  York  is  calculated  as  one  to  fifty :  and  at  Baltimore 
as  one  to  forty-nine.  In  Charleston,  South  Carolina,  it 
is  one  to  forty  :  the  situation  being  more  southerly,  it  is 
not  so  healthy  as  that  of  Washington. 

Every  part  of  the  United  States  is  said  to  be  more  or 
less  unhealthy  during  the  summer  months  :  but  the  in- 
habitants of  the  northern  and  middle  states,  and  of  the 
high  lands  and  ridges,  excepting  in  the  vicinity  of  water, 
enjoy  a  much  purer  air  than  that  breathed  by  the  in- 
habitants of  the  southern  states,  and  the  lower  districts 
of  the  country.  An  American  writer  remarks,  that 
"  The  intermitting  fever  which  is  confined  to  particular 
spots,  seems  to  originate  from  the  exhalations  of  marsh- 
es, arid  borders  of  stagnant  waters,  though  it  is  a  cu- 
rious fact  and  worthy  the  attention  of  physicians,  that 
families  who  live  in  the  neighbourhood  of  these  places 
enjoy  good  health,  while  others  who  inhabit  the  summit 
of  the  adjacent  hill,  are  victims  to  this  annually  return- 
ing malady.  When  marshy  places  become  dry,  fish, 
insects,  and  decaying  vegetable  substances  exposed  to 
the  action  of  a  burning  sun,  generate  those  gaseous 
miasms  which,  absorbed  by  the  body,  produce  weakness, 
sickness,  and  death.  Ascending  by  their  lightness  they 
are  probably  carried  by  the  winds  to  a  neighbouring 
eminence,  where  settling,  they  form  a  sickly  and  nox- 
ious atmosphere."  I  have  more  than  once  heard  it  re- 
marked, that  the  Americans  of  the  present  day  are  not 
such  men  as  their  fathers,  the  soldiers  of  the  war  of  In- 
dependence. They  can  take  as  true  an  aim  with  a  rifle, 
but  cannot  undergo  the  same  fatigue,  and  are  not  so 
long  lived,  generally.  The  inhabitants  of  the  more 


102  SIX    MONTHS 

northern  states  of  New  England,  are  perhaps,  excep- 
tions ;  but  in  any  given  number  of  the  inhabitants  of 
Georgia,  and  the  Carolinas  for  instance,  there  are  not  so 
many  persons  to  be  found  of  ninety  years  old  and  up- 
wards, as  among  the  same  number  of  persons  living  in 
the  country  in  England.*  I  heard  this  from  a  gentle- 
man on  whose  information  I  believed  that  I  could  rely : 
yet  it  is  singular,  that  according  to  the  census  of  1830, 
the  number  of  persons  of  a  hundred  years  old  and  up- 
wards, should  be  larger  in  the  southern  than  in  the  nor- 
thern states.  The  middle  states  could  boast  of  a  larger 
number  of  whites  of  a  hundred  years  old  and  upwards, 
than  any  other.  New  York  in  a  population  of  1,913,508 


was  in  Virginia,  479,  but  by  far  the  greatest  proportion 
of  these  are  blacks.  M ungo  Park  affirms  that  the  ne- 
groes in  Africa  are  not  a  long-lived  race.  Speaking  of 
the  Mandingoes,  the  general  name  for  the  inhabitants  of 
the  country  watered  by  the  Gambia,  he  says,  u  They 
seldom  attain  extreme  old  age.  At  forty,  many  of  them 
became  grey  haired,  and  covered  with  wrinkles,  but 
few  of  them  survive  the  age  of  fifty-five  or  fifty."  It  is 
singular  that  they  should  attain  a  greater  age  in  the 
United  States.  By  the  table  which  shows  the  number 
of  persons  of  one  hundred  years  old  and  upwards,  it  will 
be  seen  that  the  proportion  of  blacks  of  that  age  greatly 
exceeds  that  of  the  whites ;  but  it  may  be  remarked, 
that  the  ages  of  the  blacks  are  not  so  well  known  as 
those  of  the  whites ;  and  the  accuracy  therefore  of  the 
census,  as  it  respects  the  ages  of  this  class,  is  less  to  be 
relied  on.  It  may  be  remarked,  that  Dr.  Ramsay,  the 
historian  of  South  Carolina,  asserts,  that  those  individ- 
uals who  have  been  born  and  brought  up  in  the  northern 
states,  and  who  have  afterwards  migrated  to  the  south, 
are  usually  more  robust,  more  capable  of  withstanding 
the  climate,  and  are  longer  lived  than  the  natives  of  the 
south.  Certain  it  is,  that  the  Americans  in  general 
have  not  the  healthy  look  of  the  Englishmen.  The  men 
are  often  tall,  very  powerful,  particularly  in  Kentucky, 


*  A  British  physician,  who  resided  here  nearly  ]2  months,  after 
a  close  comparison  of  the  bills  of  mortality,  found  the  longevity 
in  favour  of  the  U.  8.— Ed. 


IN    AMERICA.  103 

and  well  proportioned;  but  their  complexions  are  not 
unfrequently  sallow,  and  climate-worn,  with  a  counte- 
nance resembling  that  of  a  person  just  recovered  from  an 
illness.  This  is  partly  the  consequence  of  the  climate, 
partly  of  their  mode  of  living1  and  their  love  of  ardent 
spirits,  still  fatally  prevalent.  I  am  speaking-  of  traveller's 
fare  when  I  say,  that  the  tavern  tables  are  always  well 
and  plentifully  supplied ;  but  no  viands  are  thought  so 
palatable  as  those  that  are  swimming  in  melted  butter. 
A  beef  steak  that  would  be  excellent  if  cooked  au  nature], 
is  almost  invariably  placed  at  the  head  of  the  table,  and 
in  this  manner  almost  invariably  spoiled.  At  breakfast 
the  bread  and  cakes  cannot  be  too  new,  or  too  hot ;  and 
fresh  supplies  arrive  during  the  meal,  which  is  usually 
despatched  with  the  most  extraordinary  rapidity.  At 
New  York  I  once  had  the  tablecloth  whisked  from  under 
my  plate  by  the  impatient  servants.  The  natural  con-  \ 
sequence  is,  an  extreme  prevalence  of  dyspepsia  in  all 
parts  of  the  United  States,  which  is  not  lessened  by  the 
incredible  quantity  of  soda  water,  sweetened  with  differ- 
ent syrups,  which  is  consumed  by  the  Americans  during 
the  hot  weather.  At  Baltimore  I  have  drank,  I  think, 
the  finest  soda  water  I  ever  tasted. 

The  inns,  or  taverns,  as  they  are  called,  which  I  met 
with  were  generally  good,  particularly  in  the  towns ; 
those  in  the  country,  however,  were  sometimes  exceed- 
ingly dirty  and  disagreeable.  I  have  almost  always 
found  the  greatest  disposition  on  the  part  of  the  landlord 
to  render  them  as  comfortable  as  possible,  and  have  very 
seldom  failed  in  my  application  for  a  room  with  a  single 
bed,  some  of  them  containing  as  many  as  four  or  five. 
The  Americans  think  nothing  of  this.  Upon  one  occa-  ^ 
sion,  in  Kentucky,  where  I  had  secured  a  single-bedded 
room,  the  landlord  who  appeared  to  have  been  surprised, 
and  thought  I  must  be  ill,  came  up  to  me  shortly  after- 
wards, and  most  good-naturedly  told  me,  that  my  room 
was  ready  :  "  As  you're  unwell,  sir,  I  guessed  you'd  like 
to  retire  directly."  The  expense  of  living  at  the  best 
inns  in  the  United  States  varies  from  two  to  three  dollars 
a  day.  For  this  sum  a  person  is  provided  with  a  bed, 
and  four  meals  at  stated  hours.  A  coffee-room  in  the 
hotel  for  eating  and  drinking  at  one's  own  time,  is  a 
luxury  the  Americans  have  not  yet  attained  to  ;*  at  least 

*  New  York  supplies  them  in  abundance,  and  the  custom  is 
gradually  extending  in  the  principal  cities  of  the  Union.— Ed. 


1  04  SIX  MONTHS 

I  do  not  remember  to  have  seen  one  any  where.  I  did 
not  find  the  regular  hours  so  troublesome  as  I  expected, 
as  the  great  heat  rendered  it  impossible  for  weeks  to- 
gether to  take  any  thing  like  severe  exercise,  excepting 
at  a  very  early  hour  of  the  morning,  or  after  six  o'clock 
in  the  evening.  I  would  instance  Mr.  Head's  table  at 
/  Philadelphia,  as  the  best  in  the  United  States.  There 
was  a  quiet  gentlemanlike  style  about  it,  that  I  never  saw 
surpassed,  or  hardly  equalled,  by  a  table  d'hote  in  any 
country.  I  wish  I  could  speak  as  well  of  the  bed-rooms 
in  that  respect ;  I  much  prefer  those  at  Mr.  Barnum's  at 
Baltimore,  and  Mr.  Gadsby's  at  Washington.  Take  it 
altogether,  the  Tremont  at  Boston,  is  by  far  the  best 
hotel  in  the  States.  Ice  is  to  be  had  in  the  greatest  plenty 
in  all  parts  of  the  United  States  ;  I  have  even  found  it  as 
a  luxury  at  my  toilette.  On  the  subject  of  eating  ices,  I 
found  that  nobody  would  touch  a  water  ice,  and  that  in 
general  cream  ices  only  were  to  be  met  with,  even  at  the 
best  shops. 

The  most  fearful  enemy  of  health  is  ardent  spirits, 
which,  by  those  who  drink  them  at  all,  are  taken  at  all 
hours,  from  four  in  the  morning  till  twelve  at  night,  and 
swallowed  under  the  various  and  subdued  appellations 
of  bitters,  egg-nogg,  mint-julep,  and  many  others ;  all 
sounding  watery  enough  to  have  captivated  Sangrado 
himself.  The  Temperance  Societies  are  an  honour  to  the 
country.  There  are  about  1000  of  them  in  the  United 
States,  composed  of  1,200,000  members,  and  affecting 
about  2,000,000  of  individuals  directly  or  indirectly. 
They  have  caused  the  suppression  of  1000  distilleries, 
and  3000  retail  stores.  The  members  solemnly  promise 
that  they  will  not  touch  a  drop  of  any  kind  of  spirits  : 
of  course,  the  rules  of  the  society  are  sometimes  broken, 
particularly  as  they  allow  wine  and  brandy  when  or- 
dered by  the  doctor.  I  have  heard  it  observed  by  those 
who  are  unfriendly  to  these  associations,  that  an  indi- 
vidual who  cannot  abstain  from  spirits  without  belonging 
to  a  temperance  society,  will  not  refrain  when  he  be- 
comes a  member ;  but  there  is  a  vast  difference  between 
the  strength  of  a  resolution  made  to  oneself,  and  known 
only  to  oneself,  and  a  promise  solemnly  and  publicly 
given,  where  fulfilment  is  demanded  by  honour,  the  fear 
of  shame,  and  the  duty  of  example.  It  is  always  ob- 
served, that  when  a  member  of  the  society  has  once  re- 
lapsed  into  his  old  habits,  his  course  is  one  of  reckless. 


IN  AMERICA.  105 

ness  and  desperation.  That  the  societies  have  done  good 
is  undeniable,  by  their  influence  on  the  wholesale  trade 
in  spirits  at  New  York. 

I  now  left  Washington  to  proceed  to  Harper's  ferry. 
The  English  and  American  ideas  of  the  picturesque  are 
widely  different.  The  Englishman,  who  sees  enough  of 
cultivation  in  his  own  country,  travels  to  other  lands  in 
search  of  wilder  scenery,  and  gazes  with  delight  on  the 
immense  forests  of  America.  The  American  would 
readily  dispense  with  the  romantic,  and  wonders  that 
every  body  is  not  like  himself,  an  admirer,  by  preference, 
of  a  rail-road,  a  canal,  or  a  piece  of  newly  cleared 
ground.  Excellent  as  these  are  in  their  way,  I  really 
believe  that  the  Americans,  of  the  middle  and  lower 
class,  regard  them  not  merely  with  reference  to  their 
beneficial  effects,  but  as  the  ne  plus  ultra  of  the  beauti- 
ful. When  I  inquired  which  was  the  prettiest  road  to- 
wards  Harper's  ferry,  "  Go  by  such  a  road,"  was  the 
reply ;  "  it  runs  by  the  side  of  the  canal,  sir."  How- 
ever,  it  so  happened  that  the  canal-road  lay  also  along 
the  bank  of  the  Potomac,  and  the  scenery  certainly  was 
very  pretty.  At  a  distance  of  two  miles  from  the  road, 
and  thirteen  or  fourteen  from  Washington,  are  the 
Great  Falls  of  the  Potomac.  I  did  not  turn  out  of  my 
way  to  see  them ;  I  have  seen  a  great  many,  and  pur- 
posed visiting  Niagara. 

After  all  I  had  heard,  I  must  say,  that  I  was  disap- 
pointed with  Harper's  ferry.  The  Shenandoah  and 
Potomac  rivers  unite  at  the  foot  of  the  Blue  Mountains, 
through  which  they  have  forced,  or  rather  worn  a  pas- 
sage: but  the  rivers  are  of  the  same  width.  The 
mountains,  composed  of  limestone,  and  schistose  rocks, 
are  of  moderate  and  uniform  elevation,  and  they  appear 
to  be  perfectly  acquiescent,  while  the  stream  glides  in 
silent  triumph  over  its  smooth  though  rocky  channel, 
without  the  least  appearance  of  exasperation.  v 

I  visited  the  United  States'  arsenal,  containing  70,000  V 
stand  of  arms.  The  chief  armourer  was  an  old  English- 
man,  who  served  at  the  battles  of  Alexandria  and  Tra- 
falgar. I  observed  that,  with  the  exception  of  the  ram- 
rod and  touchhole,  which  was  of  brass,  every  part  of  the 
musket,  lock,  barrel,  and  bayonet,  was  browned.  They 
were  not  ranged  in  order,  as  in  other  arsenals,  but  were 
kept  in  boxes,  so  that  there  was  no  display  whatever, 


106  SIX    MONTHS 

From  the  arsenal  I  proceeded  to  Captain  Hall's  manu- 
factory of  patent  rifles.  With  one  of  these,  after  a  little 
practice,  a  man  may  load  and  fire  eight  or  nine  times  in 
a  minute.  The  arrangement  is  very  simple.  The  bar- 
rel appears  to  have  been  divided  from  the  breech  with  a 
fine  saw.  The  breech  is  raised  by  means  of  a  hinge 
and  a  spring,  which  is  struck  by  the  hand,  and  when 
loaded  is  immediately  shut  down,  so  as  to  form  part  of 
the  barrel,  similar  to  that  of  a  screw  pistol.  The  great 
advantage  gained  by  the  invention  of  this  rifle  is,  that 
with  it  a  soldier  can  load,  and  defend  himself  with  his 
bayonet  at  the  same  time. 

There  are  also  some  large  saw  mills  here  well  worth 
the  attention  of  the  traveller. 

I  proceeded  up  the  well-cultivated  valley  of  the  Shenan- 
doah,  and  arrived  at  Winchester,  a  neat  considerable 
town :  thence  to  a  good  inn  in  the  middle  of  the  forest. 
In  my  way  I  crossed  the  sandy  ridge  and  the  Capon 
Mountains,  though  they  hardly  deserve  such  a  name, 
being,  to  all  appearance,  scarcely  higher  than  the  Wre- 
kin  in  Shropshire.  I  breakfasted  at  Romney,  a  pretty 
village  on  the  south  bank  of  the  Potomac.  A  little  far- 
ther  on,  the  road  is  frowned  upon  by  an  overhanging 
rock  of  bastard  lime-stone  :  its  appearance  is  very  sin- 
gular. The  strata  are  disposed  in  arches  one  within 
the  other,  so  that,  with  the  aid  of  fancy,  its  surface  may 
be  thought  to  resemble  the  solid  frame-work  of  a  stu- 
pendous bridge.  The  highest  arch,  to  which  the  others 
are  parallel,  is  nearly  semi-circular  with  a  radius  of  270 
feet 

When  the  mail,  in  which  I  was  travelling,  arrived  at 
the  north  branch  of  the  Potomac,  we  found  it  so  swol- 
len by  the  late  rains  that  a  passage  seemed  not  only 
dangerous  but  impracticable.  The  coachman,  however, 
a  cool  and  determined  fellow,  crossed  over  on  horseback  ; 
he  then  returned,  placed  one  of  the  passengers  on  the 
near  leader,  and  resolutely  drove  his  four  horses  into 
the  torrent,  which  was  sixty  or  seventy  yards  in  width, 
running  like  a  mill-race,  and  so  deep  that  it  reached 
nearly  up  to  the  backs  of  the  horses.  I  was  with  him 
on  the  box.  The  inside  passengers  pulled  off*  their  coats, 
and  prepared  to  swim.  The  water  forced  itself  into  the 
coach ;  but  we  reached  the  opposite  bank  without  dis- 
aster. On  the  preceding  evening  the  coachman  had 
onlv  prevented  the  mail  from  being  entirely  carried 


IN  AMERICA.  107 

away,  by  turning  the  horses'  heads  down  the  stream,  so 
that  the  coach  and  horses  were  swimming  for  nearly 
thirty  yards.  I  think  the  American  coachmen,  in  gene- 
ral, are  good  drivers :  the  horses  are  well  adapted  to 
their  work,  and  in  fine  condition :  in  summer  they  are 
allowed  any  quantity  of  oats  they  can  eat,  and  in  winter 
a  little  Indian  corn  is  mixed  with  them.  It  is  too  heat- 
ing to  be  much  used  in  the  stable  during  the  summer 
months ;  one  feed  of  Indian  corn  is  supposed  to  contain 
as  much  nourishment  as  two  of  oats.  The  coaches  stop 
every  five  or  six  miles,  and  the  horses  drink  at  least  half 
a  pail  of  water;  they  could  not  work  without  it  on  a  hot 
day.  The  roads  in  the  country  would  puzzle  the  most 
experienced  English  coachman  ;  they  are  often  execrably 
bad, — and  require  making,  not  mending, — with  the 
roots  of  trees  sticking  up  in  the  middle  of  the  road.  The 
expense  of  finishing  good  roads  through  the  forest 
would  be  enormous,  far  too  great  to  be  borne  at  pre- 
sent ;  but  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  large  towns  I 
have  sometimes  seen  them  in  a  state  of  inexcusable  ne- 
glect. 

Cumberland  is  delightfully  situated  in  the  valley  of 
the  Potomac,  surrounded  by  lofty  hills,  out-topped  by 
the  distant  Alleghany,  which  had  appeared  in  sight  to- 
wards the  close  of  the  day. 

Virginia  is  famous  for  its  breed  of  horses.  Till  I 
passed  through  that  state  I  had  not  seen  a  horse  with  at 
all  the  shape  and  figure  of  an  English  hunter ;  but  in 
Virginia  I  have  seen  horses  on  the  road,  and  brood  mares 
in  the  pastures,  displaying  a  great  deal  of  blood  and 
symmetry.  In  all  parts  of  the  Union  which  I  visited,  a 
well-bred  horse  is  termed  a  "  blooded  horse :"  but  the 
Americans  are  quite  at  liberty  to  use  what  terms  they 
please.  Besides  the  paces  usually  known  in  England, 
the  horse  in  the  United  States  is  valuable  according  to 
his  performances  as  a  square  or  natural  trotter,  a  pacer, 
or  a  racker.  A  racker  is  a  beast  that  can  trot  before, 
and  canter  behind,  at  the  same  time.  The  recommen- 
dations of  a  pacer  are,  that  he  moves  his  fore  and  hind 
legs  on  the  same  side  at  the  same  time,  like  a  came- 
leopard.  When  hiring  a  hack,  you  are  questioned  aa 
to  which  you  would  prefer.  As  there  is  no  fox-hunting, 
a  fast  trotter  is  considered  the  most  valuable  animal 
next  to  the  racer.  A  horse  that  can  trot  a  mile  in  two 


108  SIX  MONTHS 

minutes  and  a  half,  is  not  thought  very  extraordi- 
nary, 

At  Cumberland  I  joined  the  high  road  or  "  turnpike,*' 
between  Baltimore  and  Pittsburgh,  and  soon  afterwards 
I  began  the  ascent  of  the  Alleghany  for  the  second 
time.  The  road  passes  over  Keyser's  ridge,  one  of  the 
highest  parts  of  the  mountain,  rising  to  a  height  of 
2600  feet  above  the  level  of  the  western  river*.  The 
mountain  presented  the  same  distant  and  interminable 
forest  view  that  I  beheld  when  I  passed  over  it  in 
Pennsylvania:  but  in  that  state,  there  were  more 
patches  of  cultivated  land  to  be  seen  here  and  there  in 
the  vicinity  of  the  high  road.  Silence  and  tranquillity 
to  a  degree  I  never  before  witnessed,  are,  I  think,  the 
prevailing  characteristics  of  the  American  forests, 
where  the  Indian  is  no  longer  an  inhabitant.  They 
are  dark,  but  never  gloomy,  excepting  where  they  are 
composed  of  pine  trocs  :  they  are  solitary,  and  are  si- 
lent as  the  grave,  without  inspiring  horror.  They  are 
curious  and  interesting  to  the  European  traveller.  In 
Europe  the  eye  is  frequently  attracted  by  the  ancient 
relics  of  feudal  grandeur,  or  the  formidable  structures 
of  modern,  and  more  civilized  warfare.  But  the 
wild  scenery  of  America  is  dependent  for  its  in- 
terest on  nature,  and  nature  only  ;  the  mountain  pass 
is  without  banditti,  the  forest  is  without  fastness,  and 
the  glens  and  glades  are  quiet  and  legendless.  I  was 
never  tired  of  the  forest  scenery,  although  I  passed 
through  it  day  after  day.  The  endless  diversity  of  foliage 
always  prevents  it  from  being  monotonous.  Sycamores 
and  tulip  trees  of  most  gigantic  dimensions,  are  to  be 
seen  on  the  banks  of  the  smaller  rivers,  or  creeks,  as 
they  are  termed  in  the  United  States.  With  the  more 
stately  trees  of  the  forest  are  mingled  the  sassafras,  the 
gum-tree,  the  hickory,  and  many  others  that  are  new 
to  the  European  eye.  But  the  most  beautiful  sight  is 
afforded  by  the  wild  vine  that  entwines  itself  round 
the  acacia,  and  covers  every  branch  of  it  with  a  green 
tile-work,  extended  in  festoons  to  the  nearest  trees; 
like  those  which  are  to  be  seen  in  the  vineyards  of 
Italy. 

Soon  after  passing  the  Alleghany,  I  was  shown  the 
remains  of  an  old  entrenchment  in  a  meadow  on  the  left 
of  tho  road :  it  was  formed  by  Washington,  then  a 


IN  AMERICA.  109 

colonel  in  the  British  service,  when  pursued  by  the 
Indians  after  the  defeat  of  General  Braddock.  A  little 
further  on,  on  the  right  hand,  on  the  bank  of  a  small 
stream,  I  saw  the  spot  where  the  general  was  buried, 
on  the  9th  of  July,  1755  ;  having  neglected  the  precau- 
tions recommended  by  Colonel  Washington,  who  offer- 
ed to  scour  the  forest  alongside  his  line  of  march  with 
the  provincial  troops  ;  he  was  attacked  by  the  Indians  in 
a  defile  along  the  banks  of  the  Monongahela,  when 
within  about  ten  miles  of  Fort  du  Quesne,  at  Pitts- 
burgh, then  occupied  by  the  French,  arid  which  he  was 
marching  to  besiege  :  his  bravery  was  of  little  use;  all 
the  officers  about  his  person  were  killed,  he  had  five 
horses  shot  under  him,  and  at  last  he  himself  received 
a  mortal  wound.  He  was  conveyed  away  by  his  re- 
treating soldiers ;  but  soon  afterwards  died,  and  was 
buried  in  the  middle  of  the  road,  and  the  wagons  and 
horses  were  allowed  to  pass  over  his  grave,  in  order  to 
conceal  the  spot  from  the  pursuing  Indians.  With  his 
dying  breath  he  acknowledged  to  Colonel  Washington 
the  error  he  had  committed  in  not  following  his  advice. 
He  presented  him  with  his  horse,  and  gave  his  parting 
injunction  to  an  old  and  faithful  attendant  to  enter 
into  the  service  of  Colonel  Washington,  and  remain 
with  him  till  the  day  of  his  death.  Fort  Du  Quesne  was 
afterwards  taken  by  General  Forbes,  and  the  name  was 
changed  to  Fort  Pitt,  in  compliment  to  the  British 
minister.  The  magazine  and  part  of  the  wall  are  all 
that  remain  of  it  at  present,  and  are  to  be  seen  near  the 
point  of  confluence  of  the  rivers  at  Pittsburgh. 

At  Washington  town  I  attended  a  black  methodist 
meeting  ;  they  are  to  be  found  in  every  considerable 
town  in  the  Union,  but  I  had  never  seen  one  before. 
The  preacher  was  a  half-cast,  or  quarteroon,  as  the  ne- 
groes call  them,  and  he  and  his  congregation  were  all 
ranters  ;  he  talked  the  most  incoherent  nonsense,  and 
worked  himself  up  to  such  a  pitch  of  frenzy,  that  his 
appearance  was  almost  that  of  a  maniac.  At  intervals 
I  was  nearly  stunned  by  the  noise  he  made  ;  and  I 
could  not  help  thinking  of  the  speech  of  the  frogs  in 
the  fable,  who  said  to  the  boy  as  he  pelted  them,  **  It 
may  be  very  good  fun  for  yoi*,  but  we  really  find  it  ex- 
ceedingly disagreeable." 

As  I  approached  Pittsburgh  the  forest  became  less 
extensive,  and  the  country  exhibited  a  more  general 
10 


1  10  SIX    MONTHS 

appearance  of  cultivation,  although  it  may  be  broadly 
asserted  that  the  Americans  are  at  least  fifty  years  be- 
hind us  in  agriculture  ;  yet  there  are  many  gentlemen's 
estates  on  which  more  than  ordinary  care  and  labour 
have  been  bestowed,  and  which,  consequently,  are  far  in 
advance  of  others.  I  observed  some  good  farming  ad- 
jacent to  the  road.  Some  part  of  the  country  I  am 
speaking  of,  might  have  been  mistaken  for  the  more 
woody  parts  of  England,  had  it  not  been  for  the  worm 
or  zigzag  fence  which  is  in  universal  use  throughout 
the  United  States,  and  offers  but  a  poor  apology  for  the 
English  hedge  row,  although  they  are  sometimes  com- 
posed of  cedar  logs. 

Pittsburgh  is  built  on  the  confluence  of  the  Alleghany 
and  Monongahela  rivers,  both  of  them  being  about  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  in  width,  whose  united  streams  form 
the  Ohio.  They  are  both  passed  by  a  fine  wooden 
bridge. 

The  city  contains  12,000  inhabitants ;  but  if  the  su- 
burbs are  included  in  the  calculation,  its  population  will 
amount  to  nearly  23,000.  It  may  be  called  the  western 
capital  of  Pennsylvania.  It  manufactures  annually 
about  18,000  tons  of  iron,  and  the  same  quantity  of 
steel.  It  has  also  an  extensive  manufactory  of  cotton 
and  glass.  Bituminous  coal  is  found  in  the  greatest 
plenty  in  the  neighbourhood,  and  in  consequence  of  the 
smoke  and  black  dust  from  the  manufactories,  the  shop- 
keepers complain  that  it  is  impossible  to  keep  any  thing 
clean.  I  entered  Pittsburgh  on  the  4th  of  July,  on 
which  day,  as  every  one  knows,  the  Declaration  of  Inde- 
pendence was  signed  at  Philadelphia.  It  is,  of  course, 
always  and  universally  a  day  of  rejoicing  in  the  United 
States.  The  militia  are  called  out,  a  public  dinner  is 
always  given  in  every  town  and  village  in  the  Union 
and  an  appropriate  oration  is  delivered  by  the  appointed 
orator  of  the  day.  I  regretted  I  did  not  arrive  in  time 
to  be  present  at  the  dinner,  which  had  taken  place  under 
the  shade  of  some  trees  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  Al- 
leghany, but  I  heard  a  great  number  of  sentiments  de- 
livered, without  being  drank.  Any  bystander  wrote  an 
idea  upon  a  slip  of  paper  and  handed  it  to  the  orator, 
who  read  it  aloud  to  the  company.  They  were  all  more 
or  less  patriotic,  but  usually  couched  in  the  most  ridicu- 
lous bombastic  language.  The  cause  of  reform  in  Eng- 
land, was  a  frequent  theme  of  eulogy.  William  the 


IN   AMERICA.  Ill 

reformer  was  applauded  as  being  more  glorious  than 
William  the  Conqueror.  Henry  Brougham  was  coupled 
with  Henry  Clay,  and  a  drunken  Irishman  requested 
M  parmission  to  give  a  woluntary  toast,"  and  lauded  his 
majesty  to  the  skies,  in  terms  which  I  cannot  pretend 
to  recollect. 

On  this  day  died,  at  New  York,  James  Monroe,  the 
fifth  president  of  the  United  States,  having  twice  held 
that  office  from  1817  to  1825.  His  eulogy  was  spoken 
by  Mr.  Adams,  who  appears  to  be  the  orator-general 
upon  such  occasions,  and  who,  in  the  true  spirit  of  re- 
publicanism, thinks  it  no  degradation  to  take  his  seat  as 
a  member  of  congress  after  having  once  filled  the  presi- 
dent's chair.  Mr.  Monroe  was  five  years  of  age  at  the 
date  of  the  stamp  act.  At  an  early  age  he  joined  the 
standard  of  Washington,  when  others  were  deserting  it 
He  was  present  at  the  celebrated  passage  of  the  Dela- 
ware at  Trenton,  was  wounded  in  the  subsequent  en- 
gagement, and  was  afterwards  present  in  the  actions  of 
Brandywine,  Germantown,  and  Monmouth.  He  took 
his  seat  in  the  federal  congress  in  June,  1783,  at  the  age 
of  twenty-four.  He  was  at  first  opposed  to  the  adoption 
of  the  articles  of  the  constitution,  believing  them  to  be 
imperfect,  and  of  little  remedial  efficacy;  although  he 
was  decidedly  in  favour  of  some  important  change  in  the 
existing  government  under  the  articles  of  confederation. 
Mr.  Monroe  was  appointed  by  President  Washington, 
the  minister  plenipotentiary  to  the  court  of  France,  and 
was  received  with  splendid  formality  by  the  national 
convention  ;  but  being  unsuccessful  in  his  negotiations, 
he  was  recalled,  and  Mr.  Pinkney  appointed  in  his  place. 
He  was  afterwards  appointed  governor  of  Virginia. 
When  Napoleon  had  20,000  veterans  assembled  at  Hel- 
voeksluys,  ready  for  embarkation  to  Louisiana,  Mr. 
Monroe  was  sent  over  by  President  Jefferson  on  a  spe- 
cial commission.  On  his  arrival,  the  war  between  Great 
Britain  and  France  was  rekindling,  and  the  danger  to 
Louisiana  was  averted.  In  conjunction  with  Mr.  Pink, 
ney,  the  then  United  States  minister  at  Madrid,  he  con- 
cluded the  treaty  by  which  Louisiana  was  ceded  to  the 
United  States,  in  the  year  1803.  This  state  was  in  the 
possession  of  the  Spaniards  from  1762  till  1800,  when  it 
was  again  ceded  to  the  French,  the  original  settlers. 
The  United  States  paid  15,000,000  of  dollars  for  it.  Mr. 
Monroe  afterwards  went  to  England  as  minister  pleni- 


112  SIX    MONTHS 

potentiary,  he  was  present  in  Paris  at  the  coronation  of 
Napoleon.  He  returned  to  the  United  States  in  1807, 
and  became  secretary  of  state  in  1811,  and  afterwards 
secretary  at  war.  In  1817  he  was  elected  president,  and 
was  re-elected  in  1821  without  opposition.  His  opinion 
on  the  subject  of  internal  improvements,  was,  that  a 
power  of  establishing  a  general  system  of  internal  im- 
provement had  not  been  delegated  to  congress,  and  he 
returned  a  bill  to  the  house,  in  which  it  originated,  with 
a  justification  of  his  exercise  of  prerogative,  in  an  able 
and  elaborate  exposition  of  the  reasons  for  the  refusal  of 
his  assent.  It  is  a  very  singular  fact,  that  Mr.  Monroe 
is  the  third  out  of  four  deceased  presidents,  who  have 
died  on  the  4th  July.  The  circumstances  attending  the 
deaths  of  Presidents  Jefferson  and  John  Adams  were 
very  extraordinary.  A  committee  of  five  was  originally 
appointed  to  draw  up  the  articles  of  the  constitution. 
Jefferson  and  Adams  were  selected  as  a  sub-committee, 
and  were  in  fact  the  real  framers  of  the  constitution. 
These  two  gentlemen  died  on  the  4th  of  July,  in  the 
same  year,  and  the  news  of  their  decease  arrived  at  ex- 
actly the  same  time,  on  the  same  day,  at  Philadelphia, 
where  the  Declaration  of  Independence  was  signed. 

From  Pittsburg  I  rode  to  Braddock's  field.  It  was 
pointed  out  to  me  about  three  hundred  yards  from  the 
bank  of  the  Monongahela.  The  ground  has  been  consi- 
derably cleared  since  the  action  took  place  ;  but  it  seems 
to  have  been  admirably  adapted  to  the  Indian  mode  of 
warfare,  on  account  of  the  undulating  surface  of  the 
field,  that  enabled  the  Indians,  with  the  aid  of  the  forest 
with  which  it  was  then  covered,  to  lie  in  ambush,  and 
fire  without  being  perceived.  When,  as  a  child,  I  used 
to  read  the  account  of  this  sanguinary  conflict,  as  nar- 
rated by  the  highlander  in  the  history  of  "  Sandford  and 
Merton,"  little  did  I  dream  that  I  should  ever  stand  upon 
the  field  of  battle. 

From  Pittsburg,  I  proceeded  for  fifteen  miles  down 
the  western  bank  of  the  Ohio  to  Economy,  a  German 
settlement,  under  the  superintendence  of  Mr.  Rapp,  con- 
ducted on  a  system  somewhat  resembling  that  of  Mr. 
Owen,  of  Lanark.  The  members  call  themselves  the 
"  Brothers,"  and  have  a  community  of  property.  Any 
person,  of  any  country,  however  poor,  may  become  a 
member,  by  conforming  to  the  rules,  and  submitting  to 
learn  one  of  the  trades  or  other  occupations  which  are 


IN    AMERICA.  113 

taught  in  the  society.  If  he  be  weary  of  its  regulations, 
he  is  at  liberty  to  leave  it,  and  takes  with  him  from  the 
public  fund,  all  that  he  brought  into  it:  his  earnings, 
during  his  stay,  becoming  general  property.  It  is  open 
on  the  same  terms,  even  to  the  entirely  destitute.  The 
town  is  regularly  built,  and  extremely  neat :  there  are 
4000  acres  of  land  belonging  to  the  establishment,  culti- 
vated by  the  members,  and  at  the  expense  of  the  society ; 
they  have  a  good  museum,  an  admirable  band,  and  pub- 
lic concerts  twice  in  the  week.  The  "Brothers"  are 
chiefly  Lutherans,  from  Wirtenberg,  where,  I  under- 
stood, they  originally  attempted  to  form  a  society  of  the 
same  kind,  but  it  became  obnoxious  to  the  government, 
and  was  suppressed.  Mr.  Rapp  himself  is  a  Lutheran 
clergyman,  and  preaches  the  doctrine  of  brotherly  love. 
His  first  settlement  was  on  the  Wabash  river,  several 
hundred  miles  to  the  south ;  but  he  sold  the  place  to  Mr. 
Owen,  whose  philanthropic  exertions  were,  as  usual,  un- 
attended with  success.  Mr.  Rapp  occasionally  goes  to 
Philadelphia,  in  search  of  recruits  amongst  the  latest  im- 
portations from  Germany ;  and  it  will  be  readily  be- 
lieved, that  he  enlists  none  but  his  own  countrymen  to 
undergo  this  voluntary  confinement,  and  second  school- 
ing. It  is  scarcely  necessary  to  mention,  that  marriage 
and  a  continuance  in  the  society,  are  incompatible.  It 
is  said,  that  Mr.  Rapp's  system  has  been  sufficiently  suc- 
cessful to  cheat  him  into  the  idea,  that  his  calling,  if  not 
of  the  prophetic,  is,  at  least,  of  the  patriarchal  order. 

At  Economy,  I  joined  the  passing  steamboat  for 
Maysville.  For  about  a  hundred  and  fifty  miles  of  its 
course,  the  average  width  of  the  Ohio  is  not  greater  than 
that  of  the  Thames  at  Vauxhall  bridge.  It  is  often  very 
low ;  and  not  navigable  for  steamboats.  The  water  is 
then  extremely  clear ;  but  when  I  saw  it,  the  river  had 
been  swelled  by  the  late  rains,  and  was  very  muddy. 
The  surface  of  its  unruffled  and  rapid  stream  was  nearly 
covered  by  trunks  of  trees,  which  had  been  washed 
down  by  the  torrents  from  the  forests,  and  rendered  it 
often  necessary  to  stop  the  engine,  in  order  to  pre- 
vent accidents  to  the  paddles.  In  our  passage  down 
the  river,  we  passed,  amongst  others,  Blennerhaaset'* 
island,  so  called  from  its  having  been  the  residence  of  a 
person  of  that  name,  who  had  involved  himself  in  the 
supposed  conspiracy  of  Colonel  Burr,  who,  in  1806, 
fitted  out  an  armed  expedition  on  the  Ohio,  with  which 
10* 


114  SIX    MONTHS 

he  intended  either  to  make  a  hostile  incursion  into 
the  Spanish  territories,  or,  according  to  the  more  ge- 
neral belief,  to  make  himself  master  of  New  Orleans, 
with  a  view  to  the  formation  of  an  independent  power. 
Blennerhasset  had  beautified  the  island  at  a  great  ex- 
pense ;  but  his  property  was  confiscated  by  order  of  go- 
vernment. 

We  passed  Wheeling,  a  town  containing  about  6000 
inhabitants,  and  manufactories  of  the  same  kind  as  those 
at  Pittsburg.  At  this  place,  it  is  said,  that  the  Baltimore 
and  Ohio  rail-road  is  to  come  in  contact  with  the  river. 

Maysville  is  a  much  prettier  town,  with  a  more  pic- 
turesque situation  ;  and  looks  well  in  spite  of  its  red 
houses.  I  ascended  a  hill  whence  I  had  a  fine  view  of 
the  Ohio,  which  is  here  above  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in 
width.  It  is  observable  of  its  banks,  that  they  never  rise 
to  any  height,  directly  from  the  water,  on  both  sides  of 
the  river  at  the  same  time.  If  they  are  abrupt  on  the 
one  side,  the  opposite  shore  is  sure  to  display  a  fine  strip 
of  cultivated  land  intervening  between  the  hills  and  the 
river,  in  the  back  ground.  Near  Portsmouth,  on  the 
Ohio,  is  a  slip  of  ground  containing  4000  acres,  the 
whole  of  it  planted  with  Indian  corn,  but  it  is  hidden 
from  the  view  of  the  steamboat  passengers  by  the  trees 
on  the  margin  of  the  river. 

About  twenty -four  miles  from  Maysville,  on  the  road 
to  Lexington,  is  a  very  fine  sulphureous  spring,  called 
uthe  Blue  Lick."  There  are  several  houses  in  the 
neighbourhood  for  the  accommodation  of  visiters,  who 
resort  thither  for  the  benefit  of  the  water. 

Lexington  is  the  neatest  country  town  I  had  yet  seen 
in  the  United  States ;  the  streets  are  regular  and  spa- 
cious, and  delightfully  shaded  by  acacia  trees,  which  are 
planted  before  every  house :  it  contains  about  6000  in- 
habitants. Although  comfortable  and  cheerful  in  its  ap- 
pearance, Lexington  is  the  only  place  of  note  in  the 
United  States,  whose  prosperity,  for  several  years,  has 
been  on  the  decline.  It  could  boast  of  excellent  society  ; 
but  being  an  inland  town,  and  supported  only  by  the 
surrounding  country,  it  is  now  paying  the  penalty  for 
having  enlarged  itself  beyond  its  means  of  supply.  One 
additional  cause  of  its  decline  is,  the  great  increase  of 
steam  navigation  on  the  Ohio  and  Mississippi,  which 
affords  so  much  greater  facility  to  travellers  going  to 
New  Orleans,  than  the  land  route,  which  runs  through 


IN  AMERICA.  115 

Lexington.  A  college,  which  had  been  established  here, 
did  not  answer  the  expectations  of  its  founders,  and  a 
few  years  since  was  unfortunately  burnt. 

Till  lately,  the  greatest  confusion  prevailed  through 
the  whole  of  Kentucky,  in  consequence  of  the  compli- 
cated state  of  titles  to  landed  property,  which  has  consi- 
derably retarded  the  advance  of  its  prosperity.  Lands 
were  sold  by  the  government  of  Virginia  before  the 
separation  of  Kentucky  from  that  state,  without  having 
been  previously  surveyed  and  marked  out.  The  conse- 
quence was,  that  four  or  five  different  persons  entered 
with  their  warrants  of  possession,  as  purchasers  of  the 
same  lots,  where,  in  many  cases,  their  interest  had  al- 
ready been  sold  and  re-sold.  The  endless  litigation  oc- 
casioned by  this  state  of  affairs  produced  a  law,  limiting 
the  time  of  action  to  seven  years,  after  which  the  occu- 
pier was  to  remain  in  undisputed  possession  of  the 
property. 

The  system  of  country  banks  has  been  still  more 
ruinous  to  Lexington,  and  the  state  of  Kentucky  gene- 
rally. They  were  first  established  towards  the  end  of 
the  year  1817.  The  persons  principally  connected  with 
them  were  members  of  the  legislature  ;  about  forty  of 
them  were  opened  with,  of  course,  a  very  limited  capital, 
but  an  unlimited  supply  of  paper.  The  establishment  of 
the  branch  bank  of  the  United  States  obliged  them  to 
pay  in  specie,  and  the  consequence  was  the  greatest  em- 
barrassment in  their  affairs.  The  directors  enacted 
what  laws  they  pleased,  to  save  themselves  from  the  im- 
pending ruin :  they  abolished  imprisonment  for  debt,  and 
passed  what  were  called  stay  laws — general  and  parti- 
cular enactments,  which  extended  the  time  of  payment ; 
a  desperate  mode  of  proceeding,  and  which  only  served 
to  plunge  them  deeper  in  the  mire.  Those  who  were  of 
opinion  that  payment  of  debts,  contracted  at  a  time  when 
paper  was  the  only  currency,  could  not  now  be  demanded 
in  specie,  contrived  to  get  a  law  passed  establishing  a  new 
court,  filled  by  judges  whose  opinions  coincided  with 
their  own,  and  who  were  removable  at  pleasure.  The 
decisions  of  this  court  were  at  variance  with  those  of 
the  old  one,  and  a  new  and  old  court  party  immediately 
arose.  The  judges  of  the  new  court,  however,  immedi- 
ately resigned.  Public  and  private  credit  is  still  at  a  low 
ebb,  and  the  ultimate  ruin  of  many  of  the  leading  families 


1  16  SIX    MONTHS 

in  the  state,  who  are  connected  with  the  bonks,  appear* 
I  was  informed,  almost  unavoidable. 

A  rail-road  to  Louisville  is  shortly  to  be  commenced, 
which  will,  no  doubt,  much  benefit  the  town  and  sur- 
rounding country.  At  the  distance  of  a  mile  stands  the 
English-looking  residence  of  Henry  Clay,  Esq.,  whose 
public  services  are  too  well  known  to  need  any  remark 
here. 

I  visited  several  caves  in  this  neighbourhood;  that  called 
Russell's  cave,  distant  about  six  miles,  is  most  worthy  of 
attention.  It  is  three  quarters  of  a  mile  in  length,  form- 
ed in  a  rock,  composed  of  innumerable  strata  of  marine 
shells,  embedded  in  limestone.  The  action  of  water,  oc- 
casioning an  immense  pressure,  is  evident  at  first  sight. 
A  delicious  spring  issues  from  the  cave,  which  unfor- 
tunately was  so  swollen  as  to  prevent  my  entrance. 
Three  miles  hence,  I  observed  two  Indian  forts.  The 
larger  is  surrounded  by  a  trench,  which  is  now  about 
seven  feet  deep,  and  three  quarters  of  a  mile  in  length. 
In  the  swollen  one  the  ditch  is  considerably  deeper  and 
more  distinct,  encircling  it  on  every  side,  excepting 
where  an  entrance,  wide  enough  to  admit  a  carriage, 
has  been  left  untouched  by  the  spade. 

At  Lexington  I  was  much  amused  at  the  master-aping 
manners  of  the  slaves.  They  give  themselves  great  airs. 
On  Sundays  they  either  hire  hacks,  or  more  commonly 
ride  their  masters'  horses.  I  saw  dozens  of  them,  attend- 
ed by  their  females,  playing  the  agreeable  on  horseback, 
and  w  doing  a  bit  of  park  "  "  a  la  militaire."  The  slaves 
of  the  southern  states  are  a  very  happy  race.  In  some 
places  their  numbers  constitute  a  "  plaie  politique," 
equally  troublesome,  and  far  more  formidable,  than  the 
Bystem  of  poor  laws  in  England.  In  many  places  they 
far  outnumber  the  whites,  who  are  obliged  to  use  great 
precautions,  and  restrict  their  slaves  in  many  particulars. 
About  twenty  years  ago,  a  conspiracy  was  formed  by 
the  negroes  at  Lexington  :  a  house  was  to  be  set  on  fire, 
and  whilst  every  one  repaired  to  the  spot,  they  were  to 
take  possession  of  a  large  stand  of  arms  kept  at  the  inn, 
and  the  defenceless  crowd  were  to  be  fired  upon.  The 
bank  was  to  be  plundered,  and  the  town  burnt.  The  con- 
•piracy  was  discovered  by  a  negress,  who,  on  the  pre- 
ceding evening,  told  her  master  that  the  leaden  were 
below,  in  deliberation,  and  that  if  ho  would  listen,  h« 


IN    AMERICA.  117 

would  be  convinced  of  the  truth  of  what  she  said.  He 
did  so — and  they  were  taken  into  custody. 

There  are  still  such  animals  in  existence  as  slave 
merchants,  but  they  are  not  numerous.  Slaves  are 
purchased  in  different  parts  of  the  country,  and  sent 
down  the  Mississippi  to  the  sugar  plantations  at  New 
Orleans.  An  able-bodied  young  negro  is  worth  three 
hundred  dollars,  and  the  merchant  is  encouraged  in 
his  brutal  traffic  by  a  sure  market,  and  a  profit  of  at 
least  thirty-five,  and  frequently  of  forty  or  forty-five 
per  cent.,  after  deducting  the  necessary  expenses  for 
food  and  clothing,  and  making  allowances  for  losses 
by  death  and  accident.  Three  or  four  years  back,  one 
of  these  men  and  his  assistants  were  murdered  on  the 
Mississippi  by  a  cargo  of  slaves,  who  spared  no 
torture  that  could  be  applied  by  means  of  fire  and  steel. 

In  Virginia,  if  a  black  is  freed  by  his  master  he  is 
presented  as  a  nuisance  by  the  grand  jury,  and  gene- 
rally is  not  allowed  to  remain  in  the  state.  In  Ken- 
tucky, a  freed  man  cannot  leave  his  native  county 
without  quitting  the  state  entirely ;  and  a  master  who 
emancipates  his  slave,  is  obliged  to  give  security  to 
the  county  for  his  maintenance.  Even  a  while  man, 
who  would  be  called  a  vagrant  in  England,  is  there 
liable,  not  only  to  be  taken  up  but  to  be  sold,  for  two 
or  three  months,  to  the  highest  bidder,  who  has  the 
power  of  treating  him  as  a  slave,  if  he  refuse  to  work. 
When  any  ship  arrives  at  Charleston  in  South  Caroli- 
na, the  police  immediately  go  on  board,  and  have  the 
power  of  arresting  the  black  cook,  or  any  free  negro 
they  find  there,  who  is  placed  in  confinement  till  the 
ship  is  ready  to  put  to  sea  again.  So  jealous  are  they 
of  the  presence  of  a  free  negro,  that  a  master  is  not 
permitted  to  emancipate  his  slave  without  sending 
him  out  of  the  state ;  and  if  a  slave  has  left  South 
Carolina,  in  the  capacity  of  valet  with  his  master,  and 
has  once  obtained  his  liberty,  by  setting  foot  in  a  free 
state,  he  is  never  allowed  to  return.  At  Washington, 
the  sound  of  the  slave  auctioneer's  hammer  may  be 
heard  within  a  short  distance  of  the  capitol.  In  Vir- 
ginia, the  country  of  Hampden-Sydney  College,  the 
slave  population  amounted,  in  1830,  to  469,724,  being 
larger  than  that  of  any  other  state,  and  bearing  a  pro- 
portion to  the  whites  of  rather  less  than  four  to  six. 
In  Georgia  there  is  a  county,  most  appropriately  call- 


1 1 8  SIX  MONTHS 

ed  Liberty  county,  where  the  slave  population  is  to 
the  whites  as  five  to  one. 

The  slave  children  are  not  instructed  to  read  or 
write  at  the  expense  of  their  masters ;  if  they  enjoy 
these  advantages,  they  have  been  taught  by  persons  of 
their  own  colour.  If  they  could  write,  they  would 
forge  their  pass-papers  and  run  away  ;  and  those  who 
can,  are  always  ready  to  do  this  for  those  who  cannot. 
The  slave  population  could  not  be  educated,  and  re- 
main long  in  a  state  of  bondage.  Its  march  of  intel- 
lect would  be  stronger  and  more  terrible  than  the  fire 
in  the  vast  American  forests  which  it  would  traverse  : 
to  check  it  is  impossible,  and  flight  is  unavailing;  so 
that  the  only  means  of  avoiding  destruction  is  to  add 
vigour,  and  give  direction  to  the  flame. 

Ch6  piii  facil  saria  svolger  il  corso 
Presso  Cariddi  alia  volubil  onda, 
O  tardar  Borea  allor  che  scote  il  dorso 
Dell'  Appennino,  e  i  legni  in  mare  affonda. 

The  apparent  advantage  of  procuring  labour  for  no- 
thing is  often  far  outweighed  by  the  consequences 
arising  from  the  idle  and  careless  manners  of  the 
slaves,  and  the  expense  incurred  in  their  maintenance. 
Two  white  men  will  easily  perform  the  work  of  three 
negroes,  when  the  weather  is  not  intolerably  hot. 
They  do  as  little  as  they  can  for  their  masters ;  but  on 
a  holiday  they  will  work  for  each  other  like  real 
slaves.  Even  an  unaccustomed  eye  would  recognize 
a  slave  district  by  the  slovenly  appearance  of  the 
farms,  and  of  every  thing  connected  with  them.  The 
residence  of  the  slaves  is  usually  at  some  little  dis- 
tance from  the  dwelling-house  of  their  master.  The 
quarter,  as  it  is  termed,  consists  of  a  number  of  small 
huts,  with  a  larger  house  for  the  overseer,  and  will 
sometimes  contain  three  hundred  or  four  hundred  ne- 
groes, with  their  families,  and  all  more  or  less  distant- 
ly related  to  each  other.  An  arable  farm  will  scarce- 
ly pay,  unless  its  superintendent  be  a  man  of  skill, 
firmness,  and  perseverance.  So  much  depends  upon 
him,  that  if  he  be  a  person  of  that  character,  a  good 
farm,  one  year  with  another,  will  return  a  profit  of 
eight  or  ten  per  cent. ;  but  it  is  usually  not  so  large, 
and  is  never  equal  to  the  emolument  of  an  attentive 


IN  AMERICA.  119 

agriculturalist  in  the  northern  states,  where  slaves  are 
unknown. 

By  the  last  census,  the  total  population  of  the  Uni~  > 
ted  States  was  12,856,165:  of  these  2,010,436  were 
slaves,  existing  only  in  what  are  termed  the  southern 
states,  of  which  Maryland  is  the  most  northerly.  It 
is  said,  that  supposing  an  inclination  to  secede  from 
the  Union  should  be  prevalent  in  the  southern  states, 
the  danger  they  would  incur  from  their  inability  to 
defend  themselves  against  their  black  population, 
would  be  a  sufficient  reason  for  their  thinking  twice  on 
the  subject.  There  can  be  no  doubt,  that  the  slaves,  \ 
with  an  offer  of  liberty,  would  prove  a  most  formid- 
able weapon  in  the  hands  of  an  enemy.  This,  how- 
ever, is  not  very  likely  to  take  place,  at  least  not  as  yet. 
Before  I  quitted  America,  a  partial  insurrection  had 
taken  place  in  Virginia,  in  which  sixty  or  seventy  per- 
sons were  brutally  massacred  by  the  negroes ;  and  it 
is  most  probable  that  the  state  legislature  will  consider 
of  some  measures  by  which  the  superabundant  slave 
population  may  be  effectually  disposed  of.  Their  at- 
tention will  probably  be  directed  to  the  colony  of  Li- 
beria, on  the  windward  coast  in  Africa,  hitherto  sup- 
ported exclusively  by  the  funds  and  management  of 
the  colonization  society,  which  provides  vessels  for  the 
transportation  of  slaves  manumitted  on  condition  of 
their  departure  for  that  place.  Within  the  last  few 
years  two  or  three  hundred  negroes  have  been  annu- 
ally sent  out  of  the  country  in  this  manner.  The  capi- 
tal of  the  colony,  which  is  defended  by  a  garrison,  is 
called  Monrovia,  because  it  was  founded  during  the  pre- 
sidency of  Mr.  Monroe.  The  blacks  support  them- 
selves by  traffic  with  the  natives,  and  by  cultivating 
the  soil. 

I  really  think  I  had  not  seen  more  than  one  or  two 
ponds  in  the  United  States,  before  I  entered  the  state 
of  Kentucky ;  there  they  are  common  enough,  and 
plenty  of  bull-frogs  may  usually  be  heard  grunting  in 
the  mud  on  their  margins.  With  the  aid  of  a  little 
fancy,  there  is  certainly  some  truth  in  the  assertion, 
that  the  noise  they  make  resembles  the  words  "  blood 
and  'ounds,"  repeated  in  a  very  deep  and  coarse  hu- 
man voice. 


120  SIX  MONTHS 

I  confess  that  J  had  formed  an  erroneous  idea  of 
Kentucky,  at  least  of  that  part  of  it  through  which  I 
passed.  Contrary  to  my  expectations,  1  found  the 
land  as  much  cleared  as  in  any  state  I  had  previously 
seen.  The  soil  is  very  rich  in  many  parts;  and  will 
produce  five  or  six  crops  of  Indian  corn  or  wheat,  in 
successive  years,  without  the  assistance  of  manure. 
It  is  a  positive  fact,  that  the  grazing  farmers  will  not 
unfrequently  pull  down  and  remove  the  sheds  in  the 
fields,  sooner  than  incur  the  trouble  and  expense  of 
clearing  away  the  quantity  of  manure  that  has  accu- 
mulated in  them.  Labour  is  dear,  and  land  is  cheap; 
so  that  a  farmer  who  can  clear  good  fresh  land  when- 
ever he  pleases,  has  no  inducement  to  be  at  the  ex- 
pense which  is  necessarily  laid  out  on  a  farm  in  Eng- 
land, before  it  is  rendered  sufficiently  productive.  The 
dressing  of  land,  by  laying  on  manure  or  otherwise 
impioving  it,  would,  in  Kentucky,  be  considered  gene- 
rally a  waste  of  labour.  Hemp  is  the  staple  article 
of  produce  in  this  state. 

The  finest  specimens  of  American  forest  scenery 
are  to  be  found  in  Kentucky  :  the  oaks  and  sycamores, 
in  particular,  grow  to  an  immense  size,  and  throw  a 
delicious  shade  on  the  soil  beneath ;  which  is  often 
free  from  all  kinds  of  underwood,  and  covered  with  a 
carpet  of  green  sward, — affording  the  finest  pasture 
ground  imaginable  to  great  numbers  of  cattle,  which 
are  constantly  grazing  there.  I  was  forcibly  remind- 
ed of  the  beautiful  description  in  the  opening  scene  of 
**  Ivanhoe." 

I  had  resolved  to  visit  the  great  Mammoth  cave  in 
Kentucky,  distant  about  120  miles  from  Lexington,  on 
the  right  of  the  Nashville  road.  I  accordingly  pro- 
ceeded in  that  direction,  and  soon  arrived  on  the  banks 
of  the  Kentucky  river.  I  considered  this  ferry  as  a 
most  beautiful  specimen  of  Indian  scenery.  The  river 
is  here  seventy  or  eighty  yards  across,  and  flows  with 
a  dark  and  quiet  stream,  between  two  very  high  cliffs, 
whose  bold,  b~  e,  limestone  fronts  are  seen  to  great  ad- 
vantage, as  they  rise  above  the  mass  of  forest,  that  in- 
tervenes between  their  base  and  the  water.  It  bore 
some  resemblance  to  Swinsund  ferry,  on  the  frontier 
of  Sweden  and  Norway,  although  certainly  inferior. 
Shaker's  town  is  occupied,  as  the  name  implies,  by 


IN   AMERICA.  121 

persons  of  that  sect.  One  of  their  number,  which 
amounts  to  a  few  hundreds,  is  an  architect,  and  this 
accounts  for  the  superior  build  of  their  houses.  From 
Glasgow,  a  cross  road  conducted  me  to  Bell's  tavern, 
a  solitary  house  standing  at  the  meeting  of  the  Lex- 
ington and  Louisville  roads,  to  Nashville,  in  the 
midst  of  what  are  called  "  the  barrens."  These  bar- 
rens, it  is  supposed  by  many,  were  originally  Prairies, 
or  "  Pararas,'1  as  they  are  called  by  the  lower  clnss  of 
Americans,  but  are  now  principally  covered  by  dwarf 
oaks.  Wild  turkeys,  deer,  pheasants,  and  the  bird 
called  the  barren  hen,  which  is  also  the  prairie  hen, 
and  the  grouse  of  the  northern  and  middle  states,  are 
found  in  the  barrens ;  cougars,  wolves,  foxes,  &c.  are 
also  to  be  met  with  there.  At  Bell's  tavern,  which,  by 
the  way,  is  a  very  comfortable  little  country  inn,  I 
procured  horses  and  a  guide,  and  set  out  for  the  Mam- 
moth cave.  After  an  agreeable,  and  shady  ride  of 
seven  miles,  I  arrived  at  a  small  lonely  log  house  tav- 
ern, built  about  a  hundred  yards  from  the  mouth  of 
the  great  cave.  There  are  several  smaller  caves  in  the 
neighbourhood;  but  the  only  one  of  these  I  visited 
was  the  white  cave ;  of  no  extent,  but  curious,  on  ac- 
count of  the  number,  and  diversified  shape  of  its  sta- 
lactitic  formations,  formed  by  the  depositions  of  wa- 
ter, dropping  through  the  limestone  rock. 

Immediately  in  front  of  the  inn  begins  a  narrow 
path  winding  down  a  dark  ravine,  which  conducts  to 
the  cavo.  Its  entrance  is  overshadowed  by  the  dark 
foliage  of  the  surrounding  trees,  and  its  appearance 
altogether  is  exceedingly  gloomy,  and  calculated  to  in- 
spire a  feeling  of  horror.  The  presence  of  two  beau- 
tiful humming  birds  very  much  heightened  by  contrast 
the  effects  of  the  scene.  They  were  darting  in  all  di- 
rections, as  quickly  as  the  eye  could  follow;  some- 
times passing  with  the  greatest  rapidity  across  the 
mouth  of  the  cave,  or  remaining  for  an  anstant,  mo- 
tionless in  the  air,  as  they  sipped,  on  the  wing,  of  the 
water  that  was  incessantly  dripping  from  the  project- 
ing rock.  I  could  not  but  think  of  the  incantation 
scene  in  "  Der  Freychutze." 

The  very  sudden  encounter  of  cold  air  at  the  mouth 
of  the  cave,  is  more  agreeable  than  safe  during  the 
hot  weather.  Not  that  the  air  itself  is  damp  or  un- 
11 


122  SIX    MONTHS 

wholesome ;  on  the  contrary,  it  is  particularly  dry  and 
healthy.  I  have  been  told  of  its  acting  as  a  febri- 
fuge, and  can  easily  believe  it.  A  great  quantity  of 
saltpetre  was  made  there  during  the  late  war.  The 
works  still  remain,  but  have  not  been  used  for  many 
years.  The  salt  was  procured  by  pouring  water  over 
a  wooden  trough,  filled  with  the  earth  from  the  cave, 
which,  when  saturated,  was  allowed  to  run  off;  was 
then  boiled,  and  the  salt  separated  by  vaporization. 
By  this  process,  two  pounds  of  salt-petre  were  procu- 
red from  one  bushel  of  earth.  The  air  is  so  highly 
impregnated  with  the  saline  particles,  that  meat,  but- 
ter, cheese,  and  many  other  substances,  after  remain- 
ing a  short  time  in  the  cave,  become  of  a  bright  red 


average  width  and  height  may  be  about  seventy  feet, 
but  in  some  places  it  is  more  lofty,  and  far  wider.  I 
first  visited  an  antechamber,  and  walked  a  mile  be- 
fore I  reached  the  end,  where  there  is  a  small  but  curi- 
ous waterfall,  that  has  worked  its  way  into  the  side  of 
the  rock  in  a  serpentine  direction.  Sulphur,  red  and 
yellow  ochre,  may  be  picked  up  there ;  and  gum  bo- 
rax, sulphate  of  magnesia,  and  sulphate  of  soda,  are 
found  adhering  to  the  walls  in  considerable  quantities, 
but  not  in  every  part.  We  returned  from  the  ante- 
chamber and  proceeded  up  the  principal  part  of  the 
cave.  The  roof  and  sides  were  but  little  broken,  and 
in  general  their  evenness  and  regularity  of  angle  were 
surprising.  The  walking  was  very  good  at  first ;  but 
our  passage  was  soon  impeded  and  rendered  fatiguing, 
by  the  enormous  number  of  loose  blocks  of  limestone, 
that  were  heaped  up  on  every  side.  At  intervals  we 
came  to  a  small  pyramid,  composed  of  broken  frag- 
ments, raised  by  the  aborigines,  who  have  left  traces 
of  their  existence  throughout  the  whole  of  North 
America.  I  pulled  down  one  of  them,  and  found  only 
the  remains  of  a  fire ;  similar  marks  are  to  be  seen  on 
the  bare  rock  in  many  parts  of  the  cave.  Pieces  of 
cane,  with  which  Kentucky  originally  abounded,  with- 
in the  memory  of  many  now  living,  were  strewed 


IN    AMERICA.  123 

around,  having  evidently  afforded  the  fuel  with  which 
these  fires  were  fed.  In  some  places  the  face  of  the 
rock  had  been  slightly  worked,  but  for  what  purpose 
will  for  ever  remain  undetermined.  The  floor  of  the 
cave  is  generally  parallel  with  the  surface  of  the 
ground  above,  as  no  great  rise  or  fall  is  perceivable 
throughout  its  entire  direction.  At  about  the  distance 
of  a  mile  and  a  half  from  its  mouth,  the  cave  takes  a 
majestic  bend  to  the  left,  and  two  miles  further  we  ar- 
rived at  what  is  called  **  the  cross  roads."  From  this 
large  and  gloomy  expanse,  four  distinct  caverns 
branch  out  in  different  directions.  The  glare  of  our 
lamps  was  just  sufficiently  powerful  to  display  the 
opening  on  the  left.  It  looked  as  black  and  dismal  as 
darkness  could  make  it,  and  was  formed  by  vast  frag- 
ments of  rock,  thrown  together  with  a  confusion 
equalling  that  at  the  pass  in  the  Pyrenees,  usually 
known  by  the  name  of  Chaos.  We  clambered  over 
them,  and  after  half  an  hour's  walking  we  arrived  at 
what  seemed  to  be  the  termination  of  the  cavern ; 
but,  in  the  corner  on  the  left,  is  a  kind  of  natural 
chimney,  through  which  we  climbed  to  another  cham- 
ber. It  did  not  much  differ  from  the  other  parts  of 
the  cave,  excepting  that  it  is  much  wider  in  proportion 
to  its  length,  and  the  roof  blacker.  A  solitary  bat 
was  clinging  to  it,  and  was  the  only  living  animal  I 
saw  in  the  cave.*  No  otKers  inhabit  this  mansion  of 
utter  darkness.  The  small  pyramids  of  stone,  and 
the  marks  of  fire,  were  very  numerous.  We  explored 
the  other  branches  of  the  cave  in  succession.  At  in- 
tervals the  huge  blocks  of  limestone  rose  nearly  to  the 
roof,  and  seemed  to  set  progress  at  defiance :  but,  af- 
ter mastering  the  summit,  we  were  enabled  to  con- 
tinue, till  we  reached  another  and  similar  difficulty. 
The  cave  never  appeared  to  such  effect  as  when  seen 
from  the  top  of  one  of  these  eminences ;  because  its 
downward  dimensions  were  not  visible  by  the  light  of 
the  lamps,  and  a  bottomless  pit  was  an  easy  conjec- 
ture. The  most  terrific  place  is  what  is  called  the 
cataracts ;  here,  the  floor  sinks  away  to  a  greater 

*  Thousands  of  bats  congregate  in  this  cave  during  the  winter. 
They  hang  in  clusters,  and  are  harmless  unless  disturbed,  when 
they  dart  at  the  lights  carried  by  the  visitors.  Horrible  stories  are 
told  at  the  cave  of  travellers  being  left  in  consequence  in  total 
darkness.— Ed, 


1  24  SIX  MONTHS 

depth,  and  a  large  chasm  is  formed  on  one  side  by  gi- 
gantic mis-shapen  rocks,  fearfully  disposed  over  the 
head  of  the  explorer,  as  he  gladly  descends  to  refresh 
himself  with  a  draught  of  the  pure,  delicious  water, 
that  falls  from  the  roof.  I  thought  I  had  never  be- 
fore seen  any  thing  so  unearthly,  excepting  perhaps 
the  crater  of  Vesuvius.  We  subsequently  entered  a 
smaller  part  of  the  cave,  which  is  gradually  contract- 
ed into  so  narrow  a  passage,  that  we  were  obliged  to 
crawl  on  all  fours.  It  led  Tis,  in  a  few  minutes,  to  the 
brink  of  a  large  black  pit,  down  which  I  tossed  some 
fragments  of  stone,  and  we  heard  them  descending 
from  rock  to  rock,  for  the  depth,  I  should  judge,  of 
150  feet.  In  this  manner  I  visited  three,  and  I  have 
reason  to  believe,  all  the  four  extremities  of  the  prin- 
cipal branches  of  the  cave.  I  had  been  told  that  it 
was  as  much  as  twelve  miles  to  the  end  of  the  cavern 
which  I  entered  through  the  chimney,  and  that  the 
cave  itself  had  been  explored  for  more  than  fourteen. 
The  guides  make  it  out  to  be  more  than  double  its 
real  length.  I  was  more  than  six  hours  under  ground, 
and  moving  almost  incessantly,  during  which  time,  as 
nearly  as  I  could  calculate,  I  walked  but  nine  or  ten 
miles.  The  extreme  ends  of  the  principal  branches,  I 
should  say,  were  between  four  and  five.  There  are 
several  smaller  chambers,  wjiich  I  did  not  visit,  but  I 
heard  that  they  contained  nothing  new,  or  different 
from  the  others;  and  feeling  greatly  fatigued,  was 
glad  to  emerge  into  the  open  air.  I  found  it  requi- 
site to  pause  at  the  entrance  :  there  is  no  intermediate 
temperature  between  the  cool,  but  not  chilly  air  of  the 
cave,  and  the  sultry  atmosphere  of  noon.  The  sensa- 
tion was  extraordinary ;  with  both  my  arms  extended, 
one  hand  would  be  warm,  at  the  same  lime  that  I 
would  gladly  withdraw  the  other  from  the  contact  of 
the  colder  air  of  the  cave.  Those  who  do  not  lake  the 
precaution  of  waiting  a  few  minutes,  are  almost  inva- 
riably atlacked  with  giddiness,  or  a  fainting  fit.* 

*  Our  author  has  omitted  to  mention,  that  at  every  angle  or  turn 
in  the  cave,  rude  arrows  are  carved,  which  originally  all  pointed 
to  the  entrance.  By  this  simple  contrivance,  visitors  were  made 
aware  of  the  route  they  ought  to  follow.  There  seems  to  be  few 
circumstances  under  which  men  can  be  place.i  where  some  of  the 
race  will  not  feel  an  inclination  to  deceive  his  successors.  When 
the  writer  of  this  note  visited  the  mammoth  cave  in  1619.  some 


IN  AMERICA.  125 

I  had  erred  in  believing  that  the  huge  bones  of  the 
mammoth  and  other  quadrupeds  at  present  unknown, 
had  been  found  in  this  cave ;  and  in  imagination  I  had 
listened  to  the  dying  cries  of  agony  sent  forth  by  those 
stupendous  animals  as  they  struggled  in  the  thundering 
billow  of  the  deluge  that  had  risen,  and  rolled  into  their 
hiding  place,  and  reduced  them  to  a  state  of  frenzy  aud 
desperation.  But  it  has  received  its  name  of  the  "  mam- 
moth cave"  only  on  account  of  its  superior  size  and  ex- 
tent :  the  term  being  frequently  applied  where  size  or 
importance  is  intended  to  be  designated.  For  instance, 
the  branch  bank  of  the  United  States  at  Cincinnati,  is 
called  the  Mammoth  bank.  None  but  human  bones 
have  been  found  in  this  cave.  These  were  often  dug  up 
by  the  saltpetre  manufacturers,  and  were  usually  found 
lying  side  by  side,  but  separated  and  covered  over  by  a 
rough  slab  of  limestone.  I  was  informed  that  upwards 
of  a  hundred  skeletons  had  been  there  unearthed  ;  and 
it  is  probable  that  more  are  still  remaining  in  different 
parts  of  the  cave.  In  general  they  are  not  larger  than 
those  of  the  ordinary  race  of  men.  They  are  doubtless 
the  remains  of  some  of  that  ancient  nation,  whose  very 
name  is  unknown ;  whose  customs  and  occupation  are 
unrecorded ;  whose  chiefs  and  heroes  remain  unchroni- 
cled,  and  whose  existence  is  to  be  traced  only  in  the 
monuments  of  death  or  warfare. 

The  manner  in  which  this  and  the  other  caves  in 
Kentucky  have  been  formed  may,  perhaps,  be  more  than 
conjectured.  They  are  all  composed  of  secondary  lime- 
stone, resting  on  a  substratum  of  sand, — a  singular 
formation,  but  one  that  is  common  in  this  part  of  Ame- 
rica. The  sand  may  have  been  gradually  dislodged  by 
the  action  of  water ;  a  theory  which  the  sloping  nature 

wretch  had  altered  the  direction  of  the  arrow,  at  the  opening  of 
one  of  the  chambers,  and  the  guide  being  completely  deceived,  the 
party  wandered  in  an  unexplored  labyrinth  for  an  hour,  and  were 
long  in  a  state  of  disagreeable  uncertainty.  Their  perplexity  was 
considerably  augmented  by  the  fright  of  the  Cicerone,  a  mulatto 
man,  who  informed  us  it  was  quite  a  possible  case  we  might  never 
again  see  day  light.  The  total  darkness  and  awful  silence  strike 
the  mind  on  first  entering,  as  among  the  interesting  features  of  the 
place.  The  expansion  of  the  air  of  the  cave  in  summer  causes  it 
to  rush  out  at  the  only  opening,  where  a  lighted  candle  is  instantly 
extinguished— in  winter  the  current  is  reversed.  The  purity  of  the 
atmosphere  within  renders  it  very  agreeable  to  the  lungs.  It  is 
the  resort  in  summer  of  numerous  parties  from  the  neighbouring 
springs  at  Harrodsburg. — Ed. 


126  SIX  MOWTH3 

of  the  ground  between  the  cave  and  the  Green  river, 
only  a  few  hundred  yards  distant,  does  not  contradict. 
A;gentleman  informed  me  that  he  had  lately  witnessed 
a  similar  process.  He  had  for  a  long  time  watched  the 
increase  of  a  small  sand  bank,  that  had  been  forming  in 
a  stream  on  his  own  property  in  the  lower  part  of  Ken- 
tucky,— and  upon  further  examination  he  found,  as  he 
expected,  that  a  cave  had  been  gradually  hollowed  out 
by  the  action  of  the  water  behind  it.  The  whole  of  this 
country  and  the  region  watered  by  the  Mississippi,  is 
diluvial,  and  in  many  places  marine  shells  and  the  fossil 
remains  of  marine  animals  have  been  found  in  great 
abundance. 

In  the  neighbourhood  of  the  cave,  there  are  a  great 
many  wild  turkeys,  and  a  tolerable  sprinkling  of  deer, 
but  both  were  difficult  of  approach  at  that  season  of  the 
year.  I  was  exceedingly  anxious  for  a  shot  at  a  wild 
turkey,  but  committed  a  great  error  in  loading  with  ball 
only  ;  and  although  I  contrived  to  get  three  or  four  fair 
shots  on  the  ground,  and  on  the  wing,  yet  I  confess 
through  eagerness  to  have  missed  them.  Once  I  con- 
trived to  near  a  brood,  but  had  the  mortification,  al- 
though close  to  them,  to  hear  them  rising  one  by  one 
on  the  other  side  of  a  thicket ;  and  when  I  did  pull  at 
the  last  bird,  my  gun,  which  was  loaded  with  shot, 
missed  fire  through  the  badness  of  the  copper  cap.  Af- 
ter vainly  toiling  through  the  forest  in  search  of  a  deer, 
for  one  whole  August  day,  I-  was  poacher  enough  to 
drop  down  the  Green  river  in  a  canoe,  in  the  vicinity  of 
the  cave,  at  two  in  the  morning,  in  order  to  get  a  shot 
at  one  whilst  feeding  upon  the  moss  at  the  bottom  of 
the  river.  A  light  was  placed  at  the  head  of  the  boat 
with  a  board  behind  it.  I  sat  in  the  middle  of  the 
canoe,  which  was  paddled  forward  by  a  man  at  the 
stern  ;  both  of  us  being  as  silent  as  possible.  The  darker 
the  night,  the  better;  the  deer  stand  gazing  at  the  light, 
till  the  canoe  almost  touches  them  ;  they  appear  as  white 
as  a  sheep,  and  the  aim  of  a  Kentucky  rifle  is  usually 
too  true,  at  any  reasonable  distance,  to  render  the  death 
of  one  of  them  an  uncertainty.  But  I  was  again  un- 
fortunate. I  had  been  disappointed  in  the  attendance 
of  an  experienced  hunter,  whom  1  had  engaged  to  go 
with  me,  and  my  companion,  who  was  a  novice,  allowed 
three  deer  that  were  standing  close  to  us,  but  not  dis- 
tinguishable by  me  among  the  tall  sedge,  to  run  off  un- 


IX  AMERICA.  127 

touched  by  the  random  shot  I  sent  after  them.  The 
back- woodsmen  are  excellent  marksmen,  their  rifles  are 
long  and  heavy,  carrying  a  very  small  ball,  often  not 
bigger  than  a  large  pea.  With  these  a  good  shot  will 
alternately  hit  and  miss  the  head  of  a  squirrel  at  sixty 
yards  distance. 

I  returned  to  Bell's  tavern  with  the  determination  of 
advising  every  travelling  friend  who  visited  Kentucky, 
by  no  means  to  leave  that  state  without  having  seen  the 
Mammoth  cave;  and  I  think  that  a  sportsman,  well 
provided  with  dogs,  guns,  &c.  might  well  spend  a  week 
in  a  very  satisfactory  manner  by  taking  up  his  quarters 
at  Bell's  tavern.  When  we  had  forded  the  Green  river, 
the  coachman  addressed  a  man  on  the  opposite  side,  and 
asked  him  how  his  wife  was,  "  Thank  'e,  I  guess  she's 
smartly  unwell  this  morning,"  was  the  reply. 

Louisville  is  about  ninety  miles  from  the  cave.  For 
the  last  twenty,  the  road  runs  along  the  banks  of  the 
Ohio,  passing  through  the  most  magnificent  forest  of 
the  beech  trees  I  had  ever  beheld.  There  is  nothing 
remarkable  in  the  appearance  of  Louisville.  It  is  a  large 
and  regularly  built  town,  containing  11,000  inhabitants. 
From  this  place  the  larger  steamboats  start  for  New 
Orleans.  Those  that  come  from  Pittsburgh  are  of  smaller 
dimensions,  on  account  of  the  shallowness  of  the  water. 
The  course  of  the  Ohio  from  Pittsburgh  to  Louisville  is 
about  600  miles,  and  thence,  to  its  confluence  with  the 
Mississippi,  is  nearly  300  more.  The  length  of  the 
Mississippi,  from  its  junction  with  the  Ohio,  is  1200. 
The  falls,  or  rapids  of  the  Ohio,  are  immediately  below 
Louisville,  and  part  of  them  may  be  seen  from  the  town. 

I  had  been  very  desirous  of  seeing  St.  Louis  and  the 
Missouri;  but  the  season  was  too  far  advanced, and  that 
part  of  the  country  is  exceedingly  unhealthy  during  the 
summer  heats.  Steam-boats  run  thither  constantly,  in 
three  days,  from  Louisville.  There  is  also  a  land  con- 
veyance, which  occupies  nearly  the  same  time  on  the 
journey,  and  passes  through  the  great  Prairies,  in  In- 
diana and  Illinois.  Wild  turkeys  are  there  very  plenti- 
ful ;  quails  and  prairie-hens  are  frequently  to  be  seen 
from  the  road  in  great  abundance;  and  I  would  strongly 
recommend  any  traveller  who  is  fond  of  shooting,  and 
who  will  put  up  with  very  indifferent  accomodation,  to 
proceed  for  about  one  hundred  miles,  or  even  less,  by 
this  road,  into  the  prairies,  for  the  purpose  of  shooting. 


128  SIX    MONTHS 

It  must,  however,  be  added,  that  he  will  probably  kill 
much  more  than  he  can  either  eat  or  carry  away. 

That  there  is  a  great  quantity  of  game  in  some  parts 
of  America  is  indisputable  ;  but  it  is  equally  so,  that  it 
is  fast  decreasing  in  others.  Unless  some  attention  be 
paid  to  preserving,  deer  will  become  extremely  scarce, 
except  in  the  unsettled  country  ;  and  the  breed  of  wild 
turkeys  will  be  extinct,  as  they  are  not  found  much  to 
the  west  of  the  Mississippi  and  Missouri  .rivers.  Go 
where  you  will,  you  are  told  there  is  plenty  of  game  of 
some  kind ;  but  the  sportsman  who  relies  on  this  in- 
formation at  ihis  season  of  the  year,  while  the  trees  are 
yet  thick  with  foliage,  will  be  surely  disappointed.  I 
have  occasionally  stayed  for  a  day  at  different  places, 
where  I  had  been  induced  to  believe  that  I  should  find 
some  sport ;  but  I  seldom  found  any  game,  although  I 
always  took  with  me  some  person  well  acquainted  with 
the  woods.  The  want  of  dogs  must  certainly  be  taken 
into  consideration. 

The  inhabitants  of  Kentucky  may  be  called  the  Gas- 
5ons  of  America.  They  have  a  humorous,  good-natured, 
boasting,  boisterous  peculiarity  of  language  and  manner, 
by  which  they  are  known  in  all  parts  of  the  Union.  To 
a  stranger,  they  are  courteous  and  hospitable ;  but 
amongst  themselves,  they  quarrel  and  fight,  like  the 
Irish,  for  fun  ;  or  merely  to  see  which  is  the  best  man, 
without  any  provocation ;  and  they  evince  great  par- 
tiality for  their  own  state — which  they  familiarly  de- 
nominate "  Old  Kentuck," — perhaps  more  than  the  in- 
habitants of  any  other  in  the  Union. 

Kentucky  was  originally  used  by  the  Indians  as  a 
hunting-field,  and  for  no  other  purpose.  The  neighbour- 
ing nations  agreed  never  to  build  upon  it. 

From  Louisville,  I  proceeded  in  a  steam-boat  to  Cin- 
cinnati, in  eighteen  hours.  About  forty  miles  on  this 
side  of  the  town,  we  passed  the  mouth  of  the  stream,  so 
well  known  by  the  name  of  the  "  Big  Bone  Lick,"  on 
account  of  the  number  of  the  bones  of  the  mammoth 
and  other  animals  that  have  been  frequently  dug  up  in 
its  vicinity.  There  is  a  sulphur-spring,  and  a  house  for 
the  accommodation  of  visitors.  Our  distinguished  coun- 
tryman, Mr.  Bullock,  whom  I  saw  at  Cincinnati,  had 
been  lately  residing  on  the  spot  for  three  months,  and 
had  had  twenty  men  constantly  employed  in  digging. 
He  had  discovered,  amongst  other  animals,  the  bones  of 


IN    AMERICA.  129 

a  smaller  and  distinct  species  of  migalonyx  ;  an  animal 
having  partly  the  generic  character  of  the  armadillo, 
and  partly  that  of  the  sloth,  and  nearly  equalling  the 
rhinoceros  in  size.  But  the  most  remarkable  remains 
were  those  of  a  young  colt,  and  a  gigantic  horse,  that 
could  not  have  been  less  than  twenty-four  hands  high. 
Unfortunately,  however,  for  the  advancement  of  science, 
they  were  all  destroyed  by  a  fire,  which  took  place  about 
three  weeks  before  my  arrival.  The  fossil  remains  of 
about  thirty  animals,  now  supposed  to  be  extinct,  have 
been  found  at  the  Big  Bone  Lick ;  and  Mr.  Bullock 
conjectures  that  there  are  no  more  remaining.  That 
the  animals  did  not  perish  on  the  spot,  but  were  carried 
and  deposited  by  the  mighty  torrent,  which  it  is  evident 
once  swept  over  the  face  of  the  country,  is  probable, 
from  the  circumstance  of  marine  shells,  plants,  and  fos- 
sil substances  having  been  found,  not  only  mixed  with 
the  bones,  but  adhering  to  them,  and  tightly  wedged 
into  the  cavities  of  the  skulls — 4;  those  holes  where  eyes 
did  once  inhabit,"  were  often  stopped  up  by  shells  or 
pieces  of  coral,  forcibly  crammed  into  them. 

From  the  Big  Bone  to  the  Blue  Lick,  a  distance  of 
about  sixty  miles,  there  is  a  buffalo-path.  Those  animals 
existed  in  great  numbers  in  this  part  of  the  country, 
within  the  memory  of  many  individuals  now  living. 
They  passed  from  one  favourite  spring  to  the  other  in 
vast  herds,  always  pursuing  the  same  path,  seldom 
turning  to  the  right  or  left,  and  overturning  very 
young  trees,  or  any  slight  obstacle  that  might  occur 
in  their  line  of  march.  They  have,  however,  long 
been  killed  off  from  the  eastern  side  of  the  Ohio,  and 
Mississippi ;  not  being  seen  nearer  than  within  fifty 
miles  of  St.  Louis.  They  are  found  in  innumerable 
herds  in  the  widely  extended  plains  of  the  Missouri, 
and  towards  the  regions  of  the  rocky  mountains.  The 
Indians  kill  a  great  many  of  them,  for  the  sake  of 
their  skins,  which  sell  in  Philadelphia  at  four  dollars 
a  piece,  while  that  of  a  bear  may  be  purchased  for 
three.  They  are  so  numerous,  that  this  traffic  occasions 
no  perceptible  difference  in  the  size  of  the  herds.  An 
Indian  will  drive  an  arrow  so  hard  that  the  point  will 
appear  on  the  other  side  of  the  buffalo.  At  certain  sea- 
sons of  the  year,  their  trampling  and  bellowing  may  be 
heard  at  a  vast  distance  on  the  plains,  by  putting  the 
ear  to  the  ground ;  and  in  this  way,  if  heard  in  the 


130  SIX    MONTHS 

morning,  incredible  as  it  may  appear,  it  will  sometimes 
be  evening1  before  the  hunters  can  come  up  with  them. 
The  bonassus,  exhibited  some  years  ago  in  London, 
was  merely  the  common  American  buffalo;  which  is, 
strictly  speaking,  the  bison,  or  animal  with  the  hump, 
and  not  the  buffalo.  The  bison  is  found  of  different 
sizes  and  under  different  names  in  Africa,  in  Asia,  in 
the  island  of  Madagascar,  and  on  the  Malabar  coast ; 
and  exists,  as  we  have  seen,  in  immense  numbers  in 
North  America ;  and  it  will  associate  with,  and  breed 
with  the  tame  cattle :  but  the  real  buffalo,  which  has  no 
hump  on  the  shoulder,  is  not  found  in  the  New  Conti- 
nent, but  is  common  in  India,  and  in  Africa,  near  the 
Cape.  I  have  also  seen  them  in  the  Pontine  marshes, 
where  they  are  used  for  agricultural  purposes.  A 
marked  different  variety  of  which,  it  is  supposed,  that 
our  domestic  animals  have  descended,  is  to  be  observed 
in  the  fact  of  the  tame  cattle  refusing  to  breed  with  the 
buffalo,  and  in  the  period  of  gestation  in  that  animal 
being  extended  to  a  whole  year. 

The  navigation  of  the  Ohio  and  the  Mississippi  is  often 
rendered  dangerous  by  the  trunks  of  trees,  or  snags,  as  they 
are  called,  which,  in  floating  down  the  stream,  get  entangled 
and  stick  fast  in  the  mud  at  thebottom ;  presenting  a  most 
formidable,  and  frequently  unseen  point  near  the  surface 
of  the  water.  Our  steamer  ran  upon  one  of  them,  but 
was  soon  got  off  by  means  of  a  long  spar  of  wood 
that  was  dropped  into  the  water,  and  then  used  as  a 
lever,  with  the  side  of  the  boat  for  a  fulcrum,  by  means 
of  a  rope  wound  about  the  capstan  and  fastened  to  the 
top  of  the  spar.  In  the  midst  of  the  confusion,  an 
American  stepped  up  to  me,  and  said,  "  Stranger,  I 
guess  we're  in  a  bad  fix  !"  To  be  in  a  good  or  a  bad 
fix,  is  an  expression  very  commonly  made  use  of  in 
cases  of  dilemma.  Speaking  of  a  man  placed  in  the 
stocks,  for  instance,  a  common  American  would  remark, 
that  he  was  in  a  "  bad  fix,"  without  the  least  fear  of 
committing  a  pun,  even  at  Philadelphia,  where  the  dis- 
ease is  very  prevalent.  The  American  error  is  detected 
in  the  formal  and  decided  accentuation  of  particular 
syllables  in  several  common  words,  and  in  the  laughable 
misuse  of  many  others ;  and  not  in  any  mispronuncia- 
tion of  the  language,  generally.  The  word  engine,  for 
instance,  is  pronounced  engine;  favourite,  favourite; 
European,  European,  &c.  A  patois,  or  provincial  dia- 


IN  AMEKICA.  131 

lect,  such  as  is  heard  in  the  more  distant  counties  in  "S, 
England,  is  unknown  amongst  the  natives  of  the  United 
States ;  and  the  similarity  of  language  to  be  heard  in 
every  part  of  the  Union  that  I  visited,  could  not  but  at- 
tract my  attention  as  an  Englishman.  To  travel  by  the 
mail,  for  two  or  three  hundred  miles,  and  to  sit  beside  a 
coachman  who  spoke  as  the  one  with  whom  I  first 
started,  had  certainly,  at  least  I  thought  so,  the  effect  of 
shortening  the  distance. 

The  education  of  the  poor  classes  is  very  much  at- 
tended to,  excepting  perhaps,  in  the  more  western 
states,  where  the  inhabitants  think  they  can  get  on  just 
as  well  without  it.  In  the  Atlantic  states,  there  is  not 
one  person  in  five  hundred  (I  am  speaking  of  native 
Americans,)  that  cannot  read  and  write.  The  mail 
would  often  stop  opposite  a  solitary  log-house,  in  the 
midst  of  the  thickest  forest,  and  throw  down  a  news- 
paper, which  was  immediately  picked  up,  and  spelled 
over  with  the  greatest  avidity.  Most  of  the  back- woods- 
men can  talk  with  all  reasonable  correctness  of  the 
state  of  Europe  generally,  but  the  reform  bill  in  Eng- 
land, and  the  Liverpool  rail-road,  were  always  amongst 
the  most  prominent  subjects  of  eager  inquiry.  An 
Englishman  cannot  travel  a  mile  in  a  stage  coach  in  the 
United  States,  without  being  asked  whether  he  has  been 
on  the  Liverpool  rail-road.  In  Europe,  and  in  France 
particularly,  it  is,  "  Have  you  seen  de  tunnel  under  de 
Thames  ?"  It  is  the  usefulness  in  forwarding  the  pros- 
perity of  a  country  that  suggests  the  American  query  : 
whilst  with  the  Frenchman,  the  use  is  entirely  out  of  the 
question;  he  thinks  merely  of  the  magnitude  and  the 
novelty  of  the  undertaking,  and  never  fails  to  remark, 
that  the  engineer  was  a  native  of  France.  A  great 
proportion  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  eastern  states  are 
Dutch  and  German.  They  are  very  numerous  in  diffe- 
rent parts  of  Pennsylvania,  where  they  have  the  charac- 
ter of  being  good  and  industrious  farmers ;  but  in  other 
respects,  they  are  very  ignorant  and  opinionated,  refus- 
ing the  education  that  is  offered  to  them  gratis  for  their 
children,  who  are,  of  course,  far  behind  the  young  Ame- 


man,  and  mother's  Dutch ;"  and  "  I  was  raised  here !" 
The  latter  expression  is  very  commonly  used  when  the 


132  SIX    MONTHS 

place  of  nativity  is  inquired  after.  I  have  been  frequent- 
ly addressed  with,  Where  were  you  raised,  stranger  ?  1 
guess  you're  from  the  old  country  ?  There  are  half  a 
dozen  words  in  constant  use,  to  which  an  English  ear  is 
unaccustomed,  in  the  sense  they  are  meant  to  convey, 
such  as — "  to  fix,  to  locate,  to  guess,  to  expect,  to 
calkilate,  &c."  The  verb  "  to  fix,"  has  perhaps  as  many 
significations  as  any  word  in  the  Chinese  language.  If 
any  thing  is  to  be  done,  made,  mixed,  mended,  bespoken, 
hired,  ordered,  arranged,  procured,  finished,  lent,  or 
given,  it  would  very  probably  be  designated  by  the  verb 
*•  to  fix."  The  tailor  or  bootmaker  who  is  receiving  your 
instructions,  the  bar -keeper  who  is  concocting  for  you  a 
glass  of  mint-julep,  promise  alike  to  fix  you,  that  is,  to 
hit  your  taste  exactly.  A  lady's  hair  is  sometimes  said 
to  be  fixed,  instead  of  dressed ;  and  were  I  to  give  my 
coat  or  my  boots  to  a  servant  to  be  brushed,  and  to  tell 
him  merely  "  to  fix"  them  for  me,  he  would  perfectly 
understand  what  he  had  to  do.  There  is  a  marked  pe- 
culiarity in  the  word  "  clever."  In  America,  a  man  or 
woman  may  be  very  clever  without  possessing  one  grain 
of  talent.  The  epithet  is  applied  almost  exclusively  to 
a  person  of  an  amiable  and  obliging  disposition.  Mr. 
A.  is  a  man  of  no  talent !  no  !  but  then  he  is  a  very 
clever  man  !  According  to  their  meaning,  Buonaparte 
was  terribly  stupid,  and  Lord  North  was  a  very  clever 
fellow  indeed. 

To  say  nothing  of  their  oaths,  their  expressions  are 
sometimes  highly  amusing.  I  have  heard  a  horse  de- 
scribed as  a  "  raal  smasher  at  trotting,"  and  a  highway 
robbery  considered  as  a  "  pretty  tough  piece  of  busi- 
ness ;"  with  a  vast  number  more  of  the  same  kind.  I 
beg  it  may  be  understood,  that  I  mean  these  remarks  to 
apply  chiefly  to  the  middle  and  lower  classes  of  Ameri- 
cans :  the  language  of  every  one  is  perfectly  intelligible, 
and  as  I  have  before  remarked,  there  is  no  patois :  I 
think  it  should  rather  be  called  a  "  slang."  There  is 
also  much  less  of  the  nasal  twang  than  I  had  been 
taught  to  expect  in  American  parley.  Still  I  was  in- 
formed, that  many  Americans  when  they  hear  a  man 
talk,  will  instantly  mention  with  certainty  the  country 
in  which  he  has  been  long  resident,  being  able  to  detect 
some  words,  accents,  or  expressions  peculiar  to  each 
state.  The  English  language  does  not  contain  words 
enough  for  them.  The  word  congressional  is  a  fair 


IN    AMERICA.  133 

coinage  from  u  congress,"  like  the  word  parliamentary 
from  parliament.  But  a  member  of  congress  is  said  to 
be  deputized  ;  and  a  person  in  danger,  to  be  jeopardized. 
I  remember  that  about  two  years  ago  being  in  the  Jar- 
din  des  Plantes,  I  was  nearly  "  cameleopardized"  by  the 
giraffe  that  kicked  at  me.  In  New  York  I  observed 
that  a  gunmaker  had  put  up  over  his  door,  "  Flint  and 
steel  guns  altered  and  percussionized."  Although  the 
meaning  of  all  this  is  perfectly  understood,  still  it  is 
American,  not  English ;  and  although  the  English  lan- 
guage be  in  use,  yet  the  very  un-English  construction 
and  distorted  meaning  of  many  sentences,  render  it  so 
different  from  the  language  spoken  in  good  society  in 
England,  that  I  do  not  think  it  can  safely  be  dignified 
with  the  name  of  good  English.  But  the  English  spo- 
ken in  the  first  circles  [in  all  the  larger  cities  of  the 
the  Union,  is  usually  very  good :  so  that  between  the 
language  of  the  English  and  the  American  gentleman, 
the  difference  is  exceedingly  slight ;  but  still  there  is  a 
difference  here  and  there,  by  which  I  think  any  person 
of  observation,  who  had  been  in  the  United  States,  could 
decide  upon  the  country  of  the  speaker,  unless  of  course 
he  had  resided  in  England.  I  should  however  add,  that 
I  have  in  a  few  instances  met  with  gentlemen  whose 
language  and  pronunciation  would  have  deceived  any 
one. 

At  Baltimore  whilst  taking  a  sketch,  T  told  a  drunk- 
en ill-favoured  old  nigger,  that  I  would  take  his  pic- 
ture. He  accordingly  placed  himself  in  attitude,  and  I 
soon  hit  him  off  with  the  camera-lucida.  He  was 
very  much  pleased,  and  showed  the  picture  to  his  co- 
loured friends,  the  slaves,  who  were  working  near  me. 
He  soon  returned  with  an  old  black,  as  ugly  as  him- 
self, and  said,  that  this  man  wished  to  have  his  "  title" 
taken  too. 

We  arrived  at  Cincinnati,  the  emporium  of  com- 
merce, and  the  largest  city  in  Western  America,  con- 
taining 30,000  inhabitants,  and  thirty  different  places 
of  worship.  In  appearance  it  differs  from  most  of  the 
larger  towns  in  the  United  States,  on  account  of  the 
great  improvement  that  has  taken  place  in  the  colour 
of  the  houses,  which,  instead  of  being  of  the  usual 
bright  staring  red,  are  frequently  of  a  white  grey,  or 
a  yellowish  tint,  and  display  a  great  deal  of  taste,  and 
just  ornament.  The  public  buildings  are  not  large, 
12 


134  SIX    MOXTHS 

but  very  neat  and  classical ;  I  admired  the  second 
Presbyterian  church,  which  is  a  very  pretty  specimen 
of  the  Doric.  The  streets  are  handsome,  and  the 
shops  have  a  very  fashionable  air. 

The  principal  trade  of  Cincinnati  is  in  provisions.  Im- 
mense quantities  of  corn  and  grain  are  sent  down  the 
Ohio  and  the  Mississippi  to  New  Orleans.  Part  of  it  is 
consumed  by  the  sugar  planters,  who  are  supposed  to 
grow  no  corn,  and  part  is  sent  coastwise  to  Mobile,  or 
exported  to  the  Havana  and  the  West  Indies  generally. 
In  the  United  States,  the  word  "  corn"  is  applied  exclu- 
sively to  the  Indian  corn  or  maize,  other  grain  is  specified 
by  name  as  in  England.  The  quantity  of  flour  received 
in  1831  at  New  Orleans,  amounted  to  370,000  barrels, 
about  150,000  barrels  more  than  had  been  received  in 
any  former  year.  A  great  quantity  of  flour  had  also 
been  shipped  to  England,  but  it  is  very  often  soured  by 
the  warmth  of  the  water  in  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  In  1828, 
the  quantity  of  sugar  produced  at  New  Orleans  was 
88,878  hogsheads  of  1000  pounds  each,  and  in  1827,  the 
number  of  sugar  plantations  was  seven  hundred,  in  which 
an  aggregate  capital  of  45,000,000  of  dollars  was  in- 
vested. 

Cincinnati  has  displayed  more  wisdom  than  her  op- 
posite neighbour  in  Kentucky.  A  speculative  system  of 
banking  was  carried  on  about  the  same  time,  and  was 
attended  with  the  same  results  as  those  I  have  before 
noticed  when  speaking  of  that  state.  Credit  was  not  to 
be  obtained,  commerce  was  at  an  end,  and  grass  was 
growing  in  the  streets  of  Cincinnati.  But  the  judicature, 
with  equal  justice  and  determination,  immediately  en- 
forced by  its  decisions  the  resumption  of  cash  payments. 
Many  of  the  leading  families  in  the  place  were,  of  course, 
ruined,  and  at  present  there  are  not  above  five  or  six  per- 
sons in  Cincinnati,  who  have  been  able  to  regain  their 
former  eminence  as  men  of  business.  But  it  was  a  sa- 
crifice of  individuals  for  the  good  of  the  community,  and 
fortune  only  deserted  the  speculators  in  order  to  attend 
upon  the  capitalists,  who  quickly  made  their  appearance 
from  the  eastern  states,  and  have  raised  the  city  to  its 
present  pitch  of  prosperity. 

Cincinnati  professes  to  have  two  excellent  inns,  both 
of  which  give  promise  of  every  comfort :  the  table  was 
very  good,  but  my  rest  was  destroyed,  not  merely  dis- 
turbed, by  the  worst  of  vermin.  A  clean  bed,  be  it  but 


IN    AMERICA.  135 

of  straw,  is  a  sine  qua  non  with  an  English  traveller ; 
and  as  I  did  not  feel  perfectly  well  after  breathing  the 
unhealthy  fogs  of  the  Ohio,  I  had  consoled  myself  with 
the  idea  of  a  comfortable  sleep  for  that  night  at  least. 
But  I  was  wofully  disappointed,  being  nearly  in  a  fever ; 
and  when  I  was  permitted  to  close  my  eyes  for  a  few 
minutes,  I  dreamed  of  the  most  unconnected  subjects, — 
bullfrogs,  and  universal  suffrage,  for  instance.  ^ 

I  started  by  the  mail,  in  order  to  cross  the  country  to 
Lake  Erie.  Before  we  were  out  of  the  town,  the  near 
leader  became  unmanageable,  and  the  coach  was  over- 
turned in  the  open  street.  I  was  on  the  box,  and  ex- 
pected to  be  kicked  to  pieces,  as  I  fell  close  to  the  horses; 
but  providentially  they  all  four  galloped  off  with  the 
two  front  wheels,  and  no  one  was  hurt.  It  was  scarcely 
day-light — no  one  was  up — the  coachman  went  after  the 
horses,  and  it  fell  to  my  lot  to  deliver  the  coach  of  her 
nine  inside  passengers,  who  scrambled  out  one  by  one 
through  the  window,  guessing  and  '  calkilating'  the 
whole  time. 

By  the  evening,  we  had  reached  the  Yellow  Springs  ; 
a  fashionable  watering  place,  taking  its  name  from  the  J 
colour  imparted  to  the  rocks  by  the  water,  which  is  - 
chalybeate.     A  large  boarding  house  for  the  accommo- 
dation of  visitors  is  the  only  building  of  consequence  in 
the  neighbourhood. 

At  Centreville,  about  twenty  miles  from  the  springs,  is, 
or  rather  was,  for  it  has  been  partly  destroyed,  a  re- 
markably fine  Indian  fort;  being  a  deep  ditch  lying 
between  two  raised  banks,  and  inclosing  a  space  of  three 
quarters  of  a  mile  in  circumference,  on  which  the  town 
is  built.  On  the  outside  is  a  large  mound,  which  had 
been  lately  opened,  and  was  found  to  contain  a  number 
of  human  bones. 

At  a  distance  of  nine  miles  from  the  springs,  on  the 
Sandusky  road,  stands  Springfield,  a  small  thriving  town, 
which  like  most  of  those  in  this  part  of  the  country,  is 
exceedingly  neat  and  clean.  In  the  neighbourhood  is  a 
considerable  number  of  English  settlers,  chiefly  farmers 
from  Yorkshire.  There  is  no  doubt  that  any  man  who 
is  able  and  willing  to  work  for  his  livelihood,  can  always, 
in  two  or  three  years,  make  himself  master  of  a  farm,  in 
the  back  woods,  in  this  or  any  other  part  of  the  Union. 
The  average  value  of  uncleared  land,  is  a  hundred  dollars 
for  eighty  acres.  A  single  man  can  every  where  earn  at 


136  SIX   MONTHS 

least  twelve  dollars  a  month.  Provisions  are  exceedingly 
cheap ;  a  sheep  or  a  deer  can  be  purchased  for  a  dollar  ; 
wheat  may  be  about  two  shillings  the  bushel,  and  an 
acre  of  Indian  corn,  which  is  only  one  shilling  the 
bushel,  will  produce  twice  the  quantity  that  is  raised  on 
an  acre  of  wheat.  It  is  unfortunate  that  the  common 
class  of  British  emigrants  are  too  much  disposed  to  be- 
lieve that  a  land  of  liberty  is  identified  with  a  land  of 
promise,  and  that  when  they  emigrate  to  America,  no 
difficulties  will  ever  present  themselves.  The  conse- 
quence is,  that  exaggerated  accounts  of  their  first 
troubles,  bearing  no  proportion  to  their  real  privations, 
are  frequently  sent  home  to  their  friends  in  England  : 
but  I  am  convinced  from  my  own  observation,  and  oc- 
casional colloquy  with  my  emigrant  countrymen,  that  it 
must  be  a  man's  own  fault,  however  poor  he  may  be  at 
first,  if  he  be  not,  in  a  very  few  years,  to  use  a  common 
phrase,  completely  above  the  world ;  be  his  occupation 
what  it  may.  The  English  and  Scotch  commonly  travel 
a  long  way  into  the  western  country,  where  they  become 
farmers  and  graziers ;  the  Irish  prefer  remaining  in,  or 
near  the  principal  towns,  and  what  is  very  unusual  in 
Irishmen,  they  find  employment  as  road-makers,  canal- 
diggers,  or  bricklayers.  Witness  the  result  of  free,  and 
protecting  institutions.  Fifty  years  ago,  the  population 
westward  of  the  Allegheny  did  not  exceed  15,000  ;  now 
it  amounts  to  500,000  !  The  population  of  priest-ridden 
Mexico  has  not  increased  for  centuries. 

Columbus,  the  capital  of  the  state  of  Ohio,  contains 
nearly  4000  inhabitants.  Its  appearance  is  very  promis- 
ing, but  there  is  nothing  in  it  to  detain  the  traveller. 

At  Mansfield  I  was  obliged  to  remain  a  day  and  a 
half,  in  consequence  of  the  late  rains  having  rendered 
the  streams  impassable.  Fortunately  I  placed  myself  in 
very  good  quarters,  at  the  inn  or  tavern,  where  I  met 
with  the  greatest  civility  and  attention,  and  far  more 
comfort  and  cleanliness  than  is  often  found  at  a  country 
inn  in  the  United  States.  I  passed  a  whole  morning  un- 
successfully with  my  gun  in  the  woods.  "  Well,  stranger, 
are  you  going  gunning  this  morning  ?"  "  Yes  ;  and  pray 
what  game  is  there  in  the  forest  here?"  I  inquired. 
M  Why,  sir,  there  is  robin,  and  some  turkey,  and  con- 
siderable squirrel,  about  sundown."  The  robin  is  a  very 
common  bird  of  the  fieldfare  genus,  with  a  red  breast,  a 
little  larger  than  our  redwing.  However,  I  met  with  no 


IN    AMERICA.  131 

turkey,  and  contented  myself  with  seeing  my  compa- 
nion hit  or  "  scare"  (terrify)  the  squirrels  with  his  rifle. 
Sassafras,  sarsaparilla,  and  ginseng,  are  found  in  these 
forests.  The  latter  root  is  so  plentiful  as  to  be  an  article 
of  commerce  ;  great  quantities  of  it  are  sent  to  the  coast, 
and  exported  to  China,  where,  as  is  well  known,  it  is 
very  highly  prized,  being  considered  a  panacea. 

The  last  five  miles  into  Sandusky,  or  Portland,  lie 
over  a  small  prairie  ;  but  it  is  not  a  good  specimen,  as 
the  herbage  is  short,  and  copses  of  stunted  trees  are  fre- 
quent. Prairies  are  either  dry  or  wet.  The  wet  prairies 
are,  in  fact,  nothing  but  a  marsh  covered  with  long 
grass,  and  have  been  so  from  any  indefinite  period  of 
time.  Of  the  dry  prairies  some  may  have  been  origi- 
nally \vet,  and  some  may  have  been  cleared  by  the  In- 
dians, for  the  purpose  of  using  them  as  hunting  fields. 
But  the  former  supposition,  if  the  fact  could  be  ascer- 
tained, would  probably,  in  most  cases,  be  found  to  be 
the  true  one. 

The  shores  of  the  lake  at  Sandusky  are  exceedingly 
flat.  I  was  fortunate  in  finding  a  steam-boat  there, 
which  was  going  to  Detroit,  Green  Bay,  and  the  Saut 
de  St.  Marie,  at  the  entrance  of  Lake  Superior,  and 
would  afterwards  return  to  Buffalo.  The  "Superior," 
as  she  was  called,  was,  I  think,  the  most  comfortable 
steamer  I  had  yet  entered  ;  her  upper  deck,  about  one 
hundred  and  twenty  feet  in  length,  was  of  great  width, 
and  afforded  a  most  excellent  promenade.  We  had  on 
board  upwards  of  sixty  passengers,  many,  of  whom  were 
'ladies  ;  and  there  was  plenty  of  room  for  us  all,  with  the 
advantage  of  an  excellent  table,  and  a  small  band.  The 
lake  afforded  us  a  supply  of  most  delicious  fresh  water. 
Soon  after  leaving  Sandusky  we  passed  in  sight  of  Put- 
in-Bay, in  the  Bass  Islands,  forming  one  of  the  finest 
natural  harbours  to  be  found  any  where.  Commodore 
Perry  lay  at  anchor  there  on  the  night  previous  to  the 
10th  of  September,  1813,  on  which  day  he  gained  his 
victory  over  our  fleet  in  the  vicinity.  Night  .soon  closed 
in  upon  us.  We  passed  Maiden,  or  Amherstburg,  as  it  is 
more  usually  called.  The  British  squadron  lay  at  anchor 
there  previously  to  its  engagement  with  Commodore 
Perry.  A  boat  pushed  off  in  the  darkness,  and  asked  to 
be  taken  in  tow.  "  Who  are  you  ?"  very  properly  asked 
the  captain.  "We  British  !"  was  the  ludicrous  answer 
of  some  French  Canadians,  and  the  steamer  passed  on. 
12* 


138  SIX   MONTHS 

A  company  of  the  79th  was  stationed  at  Maiden.  In 
the  morning  we  found  ourselves  at  Detroit :  this  place 
was  a  considerable  French  settlement  so  long  ago  ^.s  the 
year  1759,  when  it  fell  with  the  Canadas  into  the  pos- 
session of  the  British,  and  is  now  increasing  with  a 
rapidity  to  which  it  is  fairly  entitled  by  its  situation,  on 
the  outlet  of  the  great  lakes.  The  French  unquestiona- 
bly displayed  their  usual  tact  and  foresight  in  their 
choice  of  the  different  points  of  communication  in  the 
extensive  chain  of  forts  which  was  originally  continued 
from  the  Canadas  to  the  Mississippi — the  proof  is,  that 
all  of  them  are  of  great  importance  at  the  present  time. 
A  similar  but  more  enlarged  instance  of  this  the  highest 
grade  of  military  strategy,  is  to  be  found  in  the  vigorous 
and  preserving  policy  of  great  Britain,  which  has  secured 
to  her  a  chain  of  fortresses,  by  which,  as  a  gallant 
American  general-officer  expressed  himself  to  me, 
"  She  has  check-mated  the  world."  The  master  mind 
of  General  Bernard,  the  eleve  and  aide-de-camp  of  Na- 
poleon, and  perhaps  the  first  engineer  now  living,  whom 
I  had  the  honour  of  meeting  at  Washington,  has  dis- 
played itself  in  the  very  extensive  and  accurate  military 
surveys,  which  he  has  taken  in  almost  every  part  of  the 
United  States.  The  fortifications  which  he  has  con- 
structed, have  rendered  the  estuaries  of  the  United 
States  altogether  inaccessible  to  an  invading  fleet. 
General  Bernard,  as  is  well  known,  has  lately  quitted 
the  service  of  the  United  States,  and  returned  to  France. 
The  wharfs  and  buildings  at  Detroit  extend  along  the 
river  side  for  about  a  mile,  and  exhibit  much  of  the  bustle 
of  a  commercial  town.  The  streets  are  spacious  and 
regular, — the  largest  is  more  than  half  a  mile  in  length, 
and  contains  some  excellent  shops  and  a  capital  hotel. 
That  part  of  the  bank  upon  which  the  city  is  built,  is 
slightly  elevated  above  the  rest  of  the  country,  and  com- 
mands a  view  which,  although  generally  flat,  is  far  from 
being  uninteresting.  The  farms  are  laid  out  in  narrow 
slips  of  land,  which  run  parallel  to  each  other,  and  at 
right  angles  to  the  river,  reaching  to  the  edge  of  the 
forest,  distant  about  two  miles  from  the  city.  By  this 
means  the  first  settlers  were  enabled  to  build  their  habi- 
tations within  a  short  distance  of  each  other  ;  they  had 
a  smaller  space  of  road  to  keep  in  repair,  and  afforded 
each  other  a  mutual  support  against  the  sudden  attacks 
of  the  Indians.  At  Detroit,  the  American  General  Hull 


IN    AMERICA.  139 

surrendered  to  General  Brock  during  the  last  war,  but  the 
city  was  subsequently  retaken,  previously  to  the  battle 
of  the  Thames. 

We  entered  the  lake  of  St.  Clair, — about  thirty  miles 
in  length,  and  twenty-five  in  breadth ;  we  passed  a  con- 
siderable distance  from  its  banks,  but  they  appeared  to 
be  very  flat  and  uninteresting.  On  the  right  is  the 
mouth  of  the  river  Thames;  made  remarkable  by  the 
victory  obtained  over  the  British  by  a  superior  force 
under  the  American  General  Harrison.  The  celebrated 
Indian  chief,  Tecumseh,  fell  in  the  engagement ;  and  the 
importance  of  this  victory  to  the  Americans  was  felt  by 
the  dissolution  of  the  hostile  Indian  confederacy  conse- 
quent on  the  death  of  their  leader. 

On  the  left  of  the  entrance  to  the  river  St  Clair,  is  a 
large  wet  prairie :  on  the  right  are  several  islands,  form- 
ing to  all  appearance  but  one  extensive  morass,  and 
abounding  in  wild  fowl.  As  the  channel  became  nar- 
rower, we  perceived  that  the  American  banks  were  far 
more  settled  than  those  on  the  Canada  side ;  but  they 
soon  alike  presented  nothing  but  a  dense  mass  of  forest 
trees,  at  a  slight  elevation  above  the  water. 

After  moving  on  for  about  thirty  miles,  we  arrived  at 
Fort  Gratiot  at  the  head  of  the  river  ;  it  contained  a 
small  garrison,  just  sufficiently  strong  to  resist  an  attack 
from  the  Indians.  The  pay  of  an  American  private  is  \ 
eight  dollars  a  month,  with  an  allowance  of  one  ration 
per  diem ;  but  his  duties  are  far  harder  than  those  of  the 
British  soldier,  which  accounts  for  the  frequency  of  de- 
sertion. A  lieutenant  in  the  army  receives  but  sixty 
dollars  a  month,  after  deduction  for  subsistence,  forage, 
fuel,  quarters,  and  expenses  for  servants.  The  pay  of  a 
captain  after  the  same  deduction,  amounts  to  about 
eighty  dollars  a  month.  The  stipend  of  a  naval  captain 
amounts  altogether  to  four  thousand  four  hundred  dol- 
lars a  year  ;  his  cabin  is  furnished  better,  and  the  allow- 
ance for  breakage  is  more  liberal  than  that  of  an  English 
officer  of  the  same  rank. 

I  here  saw  an  Indian  dance :  the  performers,  an  old 
man  and  his  sons,  advanced  towards  us,  on  a  forest 
path,  looking  like  wood  demons,  jumping  and  racing 
with  each  other,  and  uttering  a  small  shrill  cry  at  in- 
tervals; they  were  nearly  naked,  bedaubed  all  over 
with  clay,  and  began  the  dance  with  light  clubs  in 
their  hands :  sometimes  they  writhed  on  the  ground 


140  SIX    MONTHS 

like  snakes,  at  others  they  shook  their  clubs  at  each 
other,  and  used  the  wildest  and  most  extravagant  ges- 
tures. The  old  Indian  beat  time  on  a  small  skin 
stretched  across  a  piece  of  hollow  tree.  When  stoop- 
ing to  the  ground  and  looking  upwards,  his  features 
and  figure  reminded  me  of  the  celebrated  statue  of  the 
"  Remouleur"  at  Florence. 

The  whole  of  this  part  of  America  is  inhabited  by 
the  Chippewas,  by  far  the  largest  tribe  of  Indians  on 
the  shores  of  the  great  lakes.  The  waters  of  Lake 
Huron  had  been  agitated  by  a  furious  north  wind, 
and  headed  directly  on  the  mouth  of  the  rive-r;  the 
current  was  running  with  such  velocity,  that  the 
steam-boat  did  not  effect  her  passage  without  a  long 
and  very  severe  struggle,  and  when  at  last  fairly  out 
on  the  lake,  she  made  so  little  progress  that  she  was 
obliged  to  put  back.  Some  of  the  passengers  amused 
themselves  with  fishing,  and  caught  some  black  bass  ; 
as  for  myself,  I  proceeded  with  tw9  Indians  in  a 
canoe  to  the  morass  opposite  the  fort,  which  abounded 
in  wild  fowl  of  all  kinds ;  I  contrived  to  shoot  several 
ducks,  notwithstanding  the  unseasonable  cries  raised 
by  the  Indians  in  token  of  their  delight,  on  seeing  a 
bird  fall.  Their  quickness  of  sight  and  hearing  an- 
swered nearly  all  the  purposes  of  a  water  spaniel, 
when  I  could  not  immediately  find  a  wounded  bird. 
At  length  we  made  another  attempt,  and  entered  the 
vast  expanse  of  Lake  Huron.  The  coast  on  the  right 
stretched  away  to  the  north  nearly  at  right  angles ; 
and  we  gradually  lost  sight  of  it.  Our  course  was 
along  the  western  shore,  where  the  banks  were,  or 
seemed  to  be,  a  little  higher ;  but  still  very  low,  ap- 
pearing nowhere  to  exceed  thirty  feet  in  height.  The 
unbroken  and  interminable  forest,  with  which  they  are 
covered,  contains  more  game  than  any  other  part  bor- 
dering on  the  lakes,  being  less  frequented  by  hunters. 
The  American  elk  (the  wapiti  of  the  Egyptian  Hall,) 
the  moose  and  common  deer,  are  found  there,  with 
plenty  of  bears,  wolves,  and  other  wild  inhabitants  of 
the  forest ;  the  moose  has  the  power  of  remaining  un- 
der water  for  a  very  long  time,  and,  when  in  danger, 
has  been  known  to  plunge  into  a  pool,  and  remain  at 
the  bottom  for  more  minutes  than  I  care  to  mention 
here. 


IN    AMERICA.  141 

We  steered  directly  for  the  Saut  de  St.  Marie,  at  the 
foot  of  Lake  Superior,  and  distant  two  hundred  and 
twenty  miles.  One  mile  of  the  coast  on  any  of  these 
lakes  will  give  a  very  tolerable  idea  of  the  whole  of 
them,  with,  of  course,  some  exceptions.  Yet  although 
there  was  but  little  variety  in  this  respect,  the  voyage 
was  exceedingly  interesting.  The  fineness  of  the 
weather,  the  cool  breeze  so  refreshing  after  the  sultry 
heat  to  which  I  had  been  exposed,  the  comparative  ab- 
sence of  musquitos,  and  the  ever  present  recollection 
that  we  were  sailing  on  the  great  lakes  of  North 
America,  where,  comparatively  speaking,  so  few  had 
been  before  me,  gave  a  tone  to  the  excursion  that 
compensated  for  more  commanding  scenery.  As  we 
passed  Saganaw  bay,  we  were  very  nearly  out  of 
sight  of  land.  The  Mannito,or  Spirit  islands,  were  the 
next  objects  that  presented  themselves  to  our  view : 
these  are  supposed  by  the  Indians  to  be  inhabited  by 
spirits,  the  word  mannito  in  the  Indian  language  sig- 
nifying spirit.  We  then  passed  Drummond  Island, 
which  during  the  last  war  contained  a  British  fort  and 
garrison,  but  has  been  since  abandoned.  Some  ruins 
on  the  large  island  of  St.  Joseph  were  visible  from  the 
steam-boat;  they  were  the  remains  of  a  fort,  which 
was  suffered  to  fall  to  decay,  previously  to  the  fortifi- 
cations being  erected  on  Drummond's  Island.  On  the 
American  bank,  near  the  entrance  of  the  river  St. 
Marie,  we  observed  a  spot  called  the  Sailor's  En- 
campment. The  forest  had  been  partially  cleared 
away,  and  there  was  no  vestige  of  humanity  remain- 
ing. Some  years  ago,  a  sloop  was  wrecked  there ; 
the  crew  suffered  incredible  hardships,  and  many  of 
them  died  from  want,  before  the  survivors  contrived  to 
make  their  escape.  We  entered  a  cluster  of  small 
islands  at  the  mouth  of  the  river,  and  I  thought  this 
the  finest  piece  of  lake  scenery  I  had  yet  witnessed  ; 
as  far  as  I  could  judge  en  passant,  they  appeared  to  be 
chiefly  composed  of  gneiss,  lying  in  large  masses  of 
rock,  resembling  those  that  are  so  common  in  some 
parts  of  Sweden.  In  comparing  these  with  the  islands 
of  Killarney,  and  Loch-Lomoud,  I  should  remark, 
that  the  full  rich  foliage  did  not  seem  complete  with- 
out  the  arbutus ;  and  the  dark  tint  of  the  fir  trees, 
with  which  they  were  covered,  was  not  relieved,  as  in 


142  SIX    MONTHS 

tho  Scottish  lake,  by  the  exquisitely  delicate  appear- 
ance of  the  weeping  birch. 

It  was  a  remarkably  fine  evening:  as  the  steamer 
passed  rapidly  on,  her  paddles  seemed  to  take  infinite 
pleasure  in  defacing  the  astonished  surface  of  the  wa- 
ter, and  splashed  away  through  the  liquid  crystal  with 
as  little  ceremony  as  if  they  had  been  propelling  a 
mere  ferry  boat.  Every  thing  besides  was  hushed  and 
tranquil ;  the  very  passengers,  who  had  all  assembled 
near  the  forward  part  of  the  deck,  were  intensely 
gazing  upon  the  scene  around  them  ;  and  watched  in 
almost  breathless  silence,  as  the  vessel  rounded  each 
bend  in  the  deep,  but  comparatively  narrow  river,  that 
developed  in  quick  succession  some  new  and  more 
beautiful  object  at  every  turn.  Suddenly  we  heard 
the  screams  of  a  party  of  Indians,  who  had  descried 
us  from  their  wigwams  on  one  of  tho  islands,  and 
were  paddling  after  us  in  a  canoe  with  all  their  might. 
One  of  them  was  a  chief,  who  displayed  the  flag  of 
the  United  States.  In  the  course  of  the  afternoon, 
we  had  been  amusing  ourselves  by  shooting  with 
rifles  at  a  bottle  attached  to  a  line  about  forty  yards 
in  length ;  this  had  been  left  hanging  from  the  stern, 
and  the  endeavours  of  the  Indians  to  catch  hold  of 
the  string,  afforded  us  no  little  amusement.  Their 
faces  were  deeply  stained  with  the  red  extract  from 
the  blood  root  (Sanguinaria  Canadensis ;)  they  were 
in  the  best  possible  humour,  and  their  wild  discordant 
laugh,  and  the  still  wilder  expression  of  their  features, 
as  they  encouraged  each  other  to  exertion  with  quick- 
ly repeated  and  guttural  exclamations,  enabled  us  to 
form  some  idea  of  their  animated  appearance,  when 
excited  to  deeds  of  a  more  savage  description.  By 
dint  of  the  greatest  exertion,  they  contrived  to  seize 
the  string;  they  held  on  for  a  moment  by  it;  it 
snapped,  and  the  canoe  was  instantly  running  astern 
at  the  rate  of  seven  or  eight  knots.  They  again  had 
recourse  to  their  paddles,  and  used  them  with  redou- 
bled energy ;  we  then  slackened  our  pace  for  a  minute 
or  two,  and  threw  them  a  rope,  by  which  they  soon 
pulled  themselves  under  the  stern.  We  conversed 
with  them  through  the  medium  of  an  interpreter,  and 
made  them  presents  of  bread  and  spirits.  They  seem- 
ed very  thankful*  threw  us  some  pigeons  which  they 


IN   AMERICA.  143 

had  killed,  and  fired  a  feu-de-joie  with  their  fowling- 
pieces  at  parting. 

The  next  morning  we  came  in  sight  of  the  Saut,  re- 
sembling the  inclined  plane  of  a  large  artificial  dam. 
The  scenery,  though  not  grand,  was  decidedly  curious 
and  picturesque.  On  the  right  are  the  Canadian  set- 
tlements, and  the  original  establishments  of  the  north- 
west  company  :  the  left  bank  is  lined  by  a  succession 
of  small  neat-looking  country-houses  and  white  cot- 
tages. Near  the  Saut  stands  the  fort,  large  enough  to 
contain  three  companies;  but  then  garrisoned,  I  be- 
lieve, with  but  eighty  men.  Every  thing  about  it  was 
in  excellent  order :  before  our  drawing  up  to  the 
landing-place,  we  were  boarded  by  several  Indians 
with  moccasins  (leathern  sandals,)  belts,  tobacco 
pouches,  and  bark  work,  for  sale. 

The  Saut  de  St.  Marie  most  effectually  prevents  any 
vessel  from  ascending  the  river  to  Lake  Superior,  ex- 
cepting such  as  are  light  enough  to  be  towed  up.  As 
the  steam-boat  could  not  proceed  farther,  we  embark- 
ed in  canoes  on  a  small  canal,  which  has  been  cut 
from  the  fort  to  the  river  above  the  Saut,  and  paddled 
away  for  the  entrance  of  the  lake.  Immediately  after  v 
I  had  started,  my  canoe  began  to  leak;  she  was  in-  ^- 
stantly  drawn  on  shore  by  the  Indians  close  to  a  wig- 
wam, and  turned  keel  upwards.  A  light-coloured 
pitch  extracted  from  a  species  of  pine,  was  boiled  in 
about  ten  minutes.  A  piece  of  canvass  was  then  be- 
smeared with  it,  and  laid  over  the  leak  on  the  outside. 
Another  layer  of  pitch  was  followed  by  another  piece 
of  canvass,  and  then  a  third  and  last  plaster  of  the 
pitch  was  spread  over  the  whole.  In  a  quarter  of  an 
hour  she  was  again  launched  perfectly  water-tight. 
These  canoes  are  of  a  light  and  most  elegant  con- 
struction. They  are  made  of  birch  bark  extended  over 
a  slight  frame  of  cedar,  and  fastened  or  rather  sewed 
to  it,  by  the  flexible  roots  of  the  young  spruce  tree. 
They  are  usually  about  fifteen  feet  in  length,  and  can 
carry  seven  or  eight  persons  without  danger.  Some 
of  them,  however,  are  much  larger. 

The  land  on  each  side  of  the  river  presented  much 
the  same  appearance  as  that  we  had  hitherto  seen. 
Lake  Superior  may  be  fairly  said  to  commence  at  the 
Point  aux  Pins,  a  flat  sandy  promontory,  distant 


144  SIX    MONTHS 

about  six  miles  from  the  Saut.  Beyond  it,  the  surface 
of  the  water  is  suddenly  enlarged  to  a  width  of  three 
or  four  miles ;  and  though  the  open  expanse  of  the 
lake  is  not  visible  from  the  Point,  yet  the  high  and  ab- 
rupt ridges  of  land  that  rise  immediately  at  the  en- 
trance of  the  lake,  and  the  clear  expanse  of  cloudless 
sky  that  was  extended  beyond  them,  clearly  informed 
us,  that  the  mighty  inland  ocean  was  near  at  hand. 
Lake  Superior  is  six  hundred  and  seventy  miles  in 
length — of  course  a  vast  deal  larger  than  the  British 
Channel, — the  water  is  as  clear  as  crystal,  and  cool  in 
the  hottest  weather.  Being  chiefly  supplied  by  land 
springs,  the  quantity  of  water  that  falls  over  the  Saut 
is  much  greater  than  that  which  is  poured  into  the 
lake  by  its  tributary  rivers  and  streams,  which  aro 
comparatively  small  and  insignificant.  The  sailors  in 
the  steam-boat  would  occasionally  peel  a  large  pota- 
toe,  and  throw  it  in  advance  of  the  boat,  and  by  the 
time  she  arrived  at  the  spot  where  it  fell,  the  potatoe 
has  sunk  to  the  depth  of  thirty  or  forty  feet,  but  from 
the  clearness  of  the  water,  its  shape  and  colour  were 
perfectly  distinct. 

Of  all  the  different  places  we  touched  at  on  our 
voyage,  the  Saut  had  the  strongest  claims  on  our  time 
and  attention.  We  were  much  mortified  at  being 
obliged  to  leave  it  the  same  afternoon  ;  the  captain 
determining  to  return,  contrary,  I  believe,  to  the  wish 
of  every  one  on  board.  Only  one  or  two  canoes  that 
had  started  earlier  than  the  others,  were  able  to  pro- 
ceed farther  than  the  Point  aux  Pins. 

In  our  way  back  to  the  steamer,  every  canoe  shot 
down  the  Saut.  This  is  an  exceedingly  dangerous  ex- 
periment, except  when  they  are  guided  by  people  who 
have  been  long  accustomed  to  the  management  of 
them.  The  Saut,  which  is  the  only  outlet  to  the 
waters  of  Lake  Superior,  may  be  about  one-third  of  a 
mile  in  width,  and  about  half-a-mile  in  length;  the 
fall  in  that  space  being  about  twenty-four  feet.  The 
canoes,  with  the  paddles  fore  and  aft,  soon  began  to 
feel  the  effect  of  the  current,  and  were  immediately  af- 
ter carried  forward  with  great  velocity.  In  many 
places  the  waters  were  without  foam,  and  perfectly 
transparent,  and  the  large  loose  rocks  at  the  bottom 
were  distinctly  seen;  many  of  them  rise  nearly  to  the 


IN    AMERICA.  145 

surface,  but  were  avoided  by  the  remarkable  dexterity 
of  the  steersman,  where  the  slightest  want  of  skill 
must  inevitably  have  overturned  the  canoe.  The  de- 
scent occupied  between  three  and  four  minutes.  The 
rapids  on  the  left  bank  were  evidently  more  furious, 
and  are  very  seldom  descended. 

The  Saut  de  St.  Marie  was  originally  occupied  by 
the  French  as  a  military  and  trading  port.  At  the 
foot  of  the  rapids  there  is,  I  was  informed,  some  of 
the  finest  fly-fishing  in  the  world :  the  trout  are  very 
fine,  in  enormous  quantities,  and  rise  very  freely.  But 
our  inexorable  captain  cared  for  none  of  these  things. 
While-fish  (supposed  by  some  to  be  of  the  salmo  ge- 
nus,) are  exceedingly  plentiful.  Their  flavour  is  re- 
markably fine  and  delicate. 

The  next  morning  we  approached  the  island  of  Mi- 
chilimackinac,  signifying,  in  the  Indian  language,  the 
Great  Turtle ;  and  so  called  from  its  outline  bearing  a 
supposed  resemblance  to  that  animal  when  lying  upon 
the  water,  though  I  cannot  say  that  I  could  discover 
so  flattering  a  likeness.  When  within  a  short  distance 
it  appeared  to  be  diamond-shaped,  with  an  angle  pro- 
jecting towards  us,  and  the  sides  regularly  scarped  by 
the  hand  of  nature.  Apparently  about  the  centre  of 
the  island  rises  what  in  America  is  called  a  "  bluff;"  a 
word  which  is  provoking  from  its  absurdity,  and  con- 
stant recurrence  in  American  descriptions  of  scenery. 
What  is  a  bluff?  I 'asked,  and  so  would  any  other 
Englishman:  "A  bluff,  sir!  don't  you  know  what  a 
bluff  is?  A  bluff,  sir,  is  a  piece  of  rising  ground, 
partly  rock,  not  all  of  it,  with  one  side  steep,  but  yet 
not  very  sleep,  the  other  side  sloping  away,  yet  not 
too  suddenly;  the  whole  of  it,  except  the  steep  side, 
covered  with  wood;  in  short,  sir,  a  bluff  is  a  bluff!" 
The  word,  I  think,  may  do  well  enough  to  express  a 
small  rough  rocky  hill,  but  sometimes  it  happens  that 
a  bluff  is  highly  picturesque,  and  then  to  talk  of  a 
most  beantitul  bluff,  is  something  like  talking  of 
"Beauty  and  the  Beast."  As  a  substantive,  and,  in 
the  sense  in  which  it  is  used  in  America,  the  word  is 
exclusively  their  own,  and  it  really  would  not  be  fair 
to  call  it  English.  Nevertheless,  there  is,  and  shall  be 
"  a  bluff"  in  the  midst  of  the  island  of  Michilimacki- 
nac,  rising  to  the  height  of  more  than  three  hundred 
13 


146  SIX    MONTHS 

feet  above  the  waters  of  the  lake,  which  have  been 
ascertained  to  be  about  six  hundred  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  Atlantic.  On  the  left  side  of  the  island  is 
the  town,  and  above  it  appeared  the  fort.  In  the  bay 
were  several  trading  sloops,  smaller  craft,  and  Indian 
canoes ;  and  the  sun  shone  brilliantly  on  the  whole  of 
this  enlivening  scene,  which  we  saw  to  the  best  ad- 
vantage. The  town  may  contain  about  eight  hun- 
dred inhabitants,  exclusively  of  the  garrison.  The  In- 
dians are  sometimes  to  be  seen  in  great  numbers,  even 
to  the  amount  of  one  thousand  or  one  thousand  five 
hundred,  who  live  in  wigwams  close  to  the  water's 
edge.  A  wigwam,  or  Indian  village,  is  a  collection  of 
small  tents  constructed  of  matting  and  birch  bark. 
The  day  before,  we  had  met  twenty-two  canoes  in  the 
open  lake,  each  containing  seven  or  eight  Indians, 
who  were  going  from  Mackinac  to  our  settlement  at 
Pen-y-tang-y-shen,  on  Lake  Huron,  to  receive  their 
annual  presents  from  the  British  government. 

Mackinac  is  the  rendezvous  of  the  North-West 
American  missionary  establishment.  It  contained  six 
missionaries ;  of  whom  four  were  Presbyterian,  one  a 
Catholic,  and  one  of  the  Church  of  England,  and  a 
large  establishment  for  the  instruction  of  one  hundred 
children,  of  whatever  persuasion. 

A  very  curious  and  regularly  shaped  natural  Gothic 
arch,  on  the  top  of  a  rock  at  the  north-eastern  side, 
elevated  about  two  hundred  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
lake ;  a  huge  isolated  calcareous  rock ;  and  a  small 
cave  called  Skull  Cave,  are  the  natural  curiosities  of 
the  island. 

The  principal  trade  is  the  fur  trade,  which  is  carried 
on  there  to  a  great  extent,  chiefly  through  the  medium 
of  Canadian  voyageurs.  The  fort,  which  is  kept  in  ad- 
mirable order,  commands  the  whole  town,  but  is  itself 
commanded  by  another  eminence  in  the  woods  behind 
it.  During  the  late  war  a  strong  party  of  British  and 
Indians  pushed  across  from  Drummond's  Island,  with 
eleven  pieces  of  cannon,  and  being  favoured  by  the  dark- 
ness of  the  night,  contrived  to  gain  this  eminence,  dis- 
tant half-a-mile,  without  being  perceived  by  the  Ameri- 
cans in  the  fort,  who  had  not  received  notice  of  the  war 
having  broken  out.  They  beat  the  "  reveillee"  as  usual 
in  the  morning,  and  were  exceedingly  astonished  to 


IN    AMERICA.  147 

hear  it  immediately  answered  by  the  British,  who  were 
above  them.  Resistance  would  have  been  useless,  and 
the  fort  surrendered.  The  remains  of  the  old  British 
fortification  are  still  to  be  seen  upon  the  hill :  it  is 
called  Fort  Holmes,  after  Major  Holmes,  a  gallant 
American  officer,  who  was  advancing  to  retake  it,  and 
met  his  fate  at  the  head  of  the  attacking  column. 
Mackinac  was  given  up  to  the  Americans  by  the  treaty 
of  Ghent,  in  1814.  There  was  originally  a  French  fort 
and  settlement  on  the  main  land  of  the  Michigan  terri- 
tory. The  first  British  garrison  who  occupied  it  were 
murdered  by  the  Indians,  and  the  fort  and  settlement 
were  afterwards  removed  by  the  British  to  the  island. 

1  amused  myself  with  shooting  pigeons,  which  are  to 
be  found  on  the  island  in  great  numbers.  I  was  quite 
surprised  at  the  extraordinary  facility  and  quickness  of 
eye,  with  which  my  guide,  half  Indian  and  half  Canadi- 
an, discovered  them  sitting  in  the  thickest  foliage ;  his 
sight  seemed  to  me  to  be  far  keener  than  that  of  an 
English  sportsman  when  looking  for  a  hare.  The  woods 
with  which  the  island  is  covered,  are  principally  com- 
posed  of  hazel  and  maple ;  I  could  have  fancied  myself 
in  a  Kentish  preserve,  but  that  wild  raspberries  were  in 
great  abundance  in  the  open  spaces. 

In  the  evening  I  went  to  see  the  Indians  spear  fish 
by  torch  light.  A  lighted  roll  of  birch  bark,  emitting 
a  most  vivid  flame,  was  held  over  the  head  of  the  boat, 
where  the  Indians  were  stationed  with  their  spears. 
The  water  was  excessively  clear,  and  the  fish  were  at- 
tracted by  the  light,  and  several  of  them  were  instantly 
pinned  to  the  ground  at  the  depth  of  four  or  five  feet. 

About  ten  miles  north-east  of  Mackinac  are  the  St. 
Martin's  islands ;  one  of  them  abounds  in  gypsum.  At 
about  the  same  distance  from  Mackinac  and  on  the  main 
land,  I  was  informed  that  there  was  a  remarkably  fine 
trout  stream  that  would  amply  repay  the  fly-fisher  for 
his  trouble  in  going  there.  There  is  no  fly-fishing  at 
Mackinac,  but  very  fine  fish  are  to  be  taken  with  a  bait : 
they  have  pike,  bass,  white-fish,  and  what  are  called  sal- 
mon-trout, in  great  perfection.  As  to  these  last,  I  very 
much  question  whether  they  are  of  the  salmo  genus  at 
all;  as  they  never  rise  at  a  fly.  They  certainly  are  not 
what  are  called  salmon-trout  by  English  sportsmen,  nor 
are  they  the  large  bull-trout  of  the  English  lakes.  I 
saw  a  boat-load  containing  a  dozen  that  had  been  caught 


148  SIX.  MONTHS 

in  'one  night  weighing  from  fifteen  to  twenty  pounds 
each ;  they  more  resembled  in  every  respect  the  fish 
called  the  salmon  in  the  Lake  Wenner  in  Sweden,  and 
which  I  have  seen  taken  of  an  enormous  size  below  the 
falls  of  Trollhatta.  The  meat  at  this  season  (August) 
was  white,  but  well  flavoured.  I  was  informed  that  it 
becomes  of  a  reddish  colour  in  October  or  November. 

Mackinac  is  an  excellent  market  for  Indian  curiosities. 

Our  next  destination  was  Green  bay,  on  Lake  Michi- 
gan. On  our  way  we  passed  several  fine-looking  islands, 
— all  thickly  covered  with  forests,  and  apparently  unin- 
habited. A  fort  and  a  flourishing  settlement  are  to  be 
seen  at  Green  bay ;  but  there  is  nothing  attractive  about 
either,  and  the  country  is  very  flat  and  uninteresting, 
except  to  a  sportsman.  There  are  plenty  of  wild  fowl  to 
be  found  at  Duck  creek,  about  three  miles  off,  and  I  pro- 
ceeded there  in  hopes  of  shooting  some,  but  did  not  fall 
in  with  them  until  it  was  too  late  to  have  much  sport. 
However,  I  chanced  to  meet  an  old  Indian  who  had  been 
more  successful,  and  I  carried  back  to  the  steam-boat 
two  silver  ducks,  which  answered  every  purpose,  as  no 
questions  were  asked.  My  guide  had  been  enumerating 
to  me  the  different  wild  animals  to  be  found  in  that  part 
of  the  forest,  and  I  chanced  to  ask  him,  if  foxes  were 
plentiful;  his  answer  was  amusing,  "Yes,  sir;  there  is 
considerable  fox."  In  the  very  darkest  part  of  the  forest, 
about  two  and  a  half  milea  from  the  mouth  of  the  creek, 
was  the  residence  of  an  Indian  doctress  and  fortune- 
teller. I  landed  there  out  of  curiosity  to  have  my  for- 
tune told  ;  but  her  manner,  her  language,  and  the  sub- 
stance of  what  she  said,  differed  in  no  respect  from  that 
of  a  common  English  gipsy  woman.  She  shuffled  a 
dirty  pack  of  cards,  and  told  me  of  the  fair  lady  and  the 
dark  lady,  the  false  friend  and  the  true  friend,  the  trea- 
sure to  be  found  and  the  journey  to  be  taken,  with  the 
same  chapter  of  accidents  and  unavoidable  dangers.  I 
purchased  some  of  her  medical  herbs :  the  principal 
plant  was  sarsaparilla.  I  observed  wild  rice  growing  in 
great  abundance  on  the  margin  of  the  stream. 

By  passing  up  the  river  at  Green  bay,  a  traveller  may 
proceed  in  canoes  down  the  Wiskansaw  river  to  the 
head  of  the  Mississippi,  having  only  to  pass  over  one 
mile  of  terra  firma;  so  that  with  this  single  exception, 
the  whole  distance  from  Quebec  to  New  Orleans  may  be 
travelled  by  water. 


IN    AMERICA.  149 

We  left  Green  bay,  and  returned  to  Mackinac,  and 
passed  the  day  much  in  the  same  manner  as  before.  Our 
evening's  entertainment  was  rather- of  a  novel  descrip- 
tion. A  Catholic  priest,  whom  we  had  previously  left  at 
Mackinac,  and  who  was  known  to  be  an  eloquent  man, 
was  going-  to  preach  in  the  chapel,  and  accordingly  many 
of  us  went  to  hear  him  :  he  had  come  to  the  island  for 
the  sole  purpose  of  holding  a  religious  controversy  with 
some  of  the  Presbyterian  clergy.  The  expected  meet- 
ing  did  not  however  take  place ;  and  having  been,  or 
fancying  himself  to  have  been  very  much  wronged,  he 
entered  into  a  long  explanation  of  the  whole  affair.  He 
read  letters  and  papers,  and  commented  upon  them  in 
his  robes  from  the  altar;  he  made  a  long  tirade,  in 
which  sarcasm  and  ridicule  were  successively  promi- 
nent, and  wound  up  his  speech  more  suited  to  the  bar 
than  the  pulpit,  by  accusing  his  adversary  of  telling  a 
*'  thumper."  Whether  he  was  in  the  right  or  the  wrong 
was  little  to  the  purpose :  in  common,  I  believe,  with 
every  one  that  heard  him,  I  thought  the  whole  proceed- 
ing was  exceedingly  disgraceful. 

We  now  steered  again  for  Fort  Gratiot,  and  passed  to 
Detroit  and  Lake  Erie.  From  Detroit  to  Buffalo  it  is 
three  hundred  and  fifty  miles.  We  touched  at  several 
posts;  and  in  short,  after  a  voyage  of  one  thousand  eight 
hundred  and  ten  miles,  performed  in  nineteen  days,  we 
arrived  at  Buffalo,  and  fired  a  salute  of  twenty -four  guns, 
one  for  each  state.  The  distances  the  steam-boat  had 
passed  over  were  as  follows.  From  Buffalo  to  Detroit, 
three  hundred  and  fifty  miles;  to  Fort  Gratiot,  seventy- 
five;  length  of  Lake  Huron,  two  hundred  and  twenty ; 
from  the  mouth  of  the  river  St.  Marie  to  the  Saut,  and 
back  to  the  lake,  one  hundred  miles  ;  thence  to  Mac- 
kinac, forty  miles;  to  Green  bay,  one  hundred  and 
eighty;  back  to  Mackinac,  one  hundred  and  eighty 
more ;  thence  to  Fort  Gratiot,  two  hundred  and  forty ; 
to  Detroit,  seventy-five ;  to  Buffalo,  three  hundred  and 
fifty ;  total,  one  thousand  eight  hundred  and  ten  miles. 
The  voyage  altogether  had  been  very  pleasant,  and  the 
weather  so  favourable  that  quadrilles  were  danced  on 
deck  almost  every  evening.  On  one  night  only,  the  sur- 
face of  Lake  Huron  was  agitated  by  something  like  a 
squall,  and  the  rolling  of  the  steam-boat  was  exceedingly 
disagreeable.  I  had  nothing  to  complain  of,  but  the 
conceit  and  untameable  insolence  of  the  stewards;  which 
13* 


150  SIX    MONTHS 

were  remarked,  and  I  have  no  doubt  will  be  remembered, 
by  many  of  the  warmest  admirers  of  liberty  and  equality 
who  were  on  board. 

Buffalo  is  a  large,  thriving  and  cheerful  town,  con- 
taining about  fourteen  thousand  inhabitants.  The  prin- 
cipal street  is  spacious  and  handsome,  and  of  great  length. 

And  now  for  Niagara,  the  diapason  of  fresh  waters  ! 
An  hour's  drive  brought  me  to  the  village  of  Black 
Rock,  where  the  Niagara  river  is  about  half  a  mile  in 
breadth,  and  runs  from  the  lake  with  a  very  strong  cur- 
rent. Opposite  to  Black  Rock  are  the  remains  of  Fort 
Erie,  unsuccessfully  besieged  by  the  British  in  1814. 

I  proceeded  along  the  side  of  the  river.  Its  rapidity 
soon  ceases,  and  it  presents  a  surface  as  still  and  as 
calm  as  that  of  a  lake.  A  turn  of  the  road  brought  my 
Toiture  to  a  small  inn,  close  to  the  field  of  battle  of  Chip- 
pewa,  fought  during  the  last  war.  At  this  spot,  which 
by  the  road  is  about  four  miles  distant,  we  were  within 
hearing  of  the  deep  hollow  roar  of  the  cataract,  and  first 
saw  the  spray  that  arose  from  the  gulph  beneath.  Both 
are  sometimes  perceptible  at  a  far  greater  distance.  The 
moon  was  just  rising,  and  threw  a  faint,  pale  light  over 
the  river,  which  is  here  expanded  to  a  breadth  of  several 
miles.  There  was  scarcely  a  ripple  to  be  seen;  the 
whole  sheet  of  water  was  tranquil  and  resigned :  the 
stream  appeared  to  cease  flowing,  while  all  nature, 
hushed  and  breathless,  listened  with  it  to  the  distant 
thunders  of  the  cataract  This  scene  is  continued  for 
about  a  mile  further,  and  thence  the  tale  is  soon  told. 
The  bed  of  the  river  begins  to  slope,  and  the  agitation 
of  the  waters  indicate  the  commencement  of  the  rapids. 
The  mighty  stream  rushes  forward  with  ungovernable 
violence — its  confusion  and  exasperation  are  increased 
every  instant — it  nears  the  brink  of  the  precipice  in  a 
state  of  frenzy — and  bounds  over  it  to  its  destiny  of  mist 
and  foam,  in  unexampled  volume,  and  with  terrific  im- 
petuosity. 

This  stupendous  fall  has  been  frequently  and  well  de- 
scribed ;  and  I  do  but  trespass  on  your  patience  in  re- 
marking, that  it  is  divided  into  three  parts  by  two  islands 
-*— a  larger  and  a  smaller  one.  Including  these,  the  bed 
of  the  river  immediately  above  the  fall  is  suddenly  nar- 
rowed to  about  three  quarters  of  a  mile.  The  fall  of  the 
rapids  above,  commencing  near  the  village  of  Chippewa, 
two  miles  from  the  brink  of  the  cataract,  is  estimated  at 


IN    AMERICA.  151 

ninety  feet.  On  the  American  side,  the  river  is  precipi- 
tated from  a  height  of  one  hundred  and  sixty-four  feet : 
on  the  Canadian  bank,  the  fall  is  about  ten  feet  less ;  but 
contains  by  far  the  greater  quantity  of  water,  the  pre- 
cipice having  been  worn  into  the  form  of  a  vast  crescent 
by  the  "  green  water,"  (so  called  on  account  of  its  bril- 
liantly transparent  colour  when  the  sun  shines  on  it), 
which  falls  from  the  middle  of  the  river  in  a  solid  mass, 
not  less  than  five  or  six  feet  in  thickness,  and  is  driven 
forwards  with  an  impetus  that  hurls  it  into  the  gulph 
below,  at  a  distance  of  fifty  feet  from  the  base  of  the 
rock. 

The  finest  general  view  is,  I  think,  to  be  obtained 
from  the  top  of  Mr.  Forsyth's  hotel  (where,  be  it  added, 
having  just  entered  the  British  dominions,  we  drank  his 
Majesty's  health  in  a  bumper,  at  the  table  d'hote),  be- 
cause the  whole  surrounding  country  and  the  rapids, 
which  of  themselves  are  worth  a  long  journey,  are  seen 
at  the  same  time.  The  bottom  of  the  fall  it  is  true  is 
not  visible ;  but  I  believe  the  view  will  not  be  thought 
the  less  magnificent  on  that  account,  as  it  is  very  possible 
from  that  spot  to  imagine  the  height  of  the  fall  to  be 
even  greater  than  it  really  is.  I  may  also  be  allowed  to 
remark,  that  I  think  the  immediately  surrounding  scenery 
is  sufficiently  in  keeping  with  the  grandeur  of  the  cata- 
ract, although  I  am  aware  that  many  are  of  a  different 
opinion.  The  country  is  on  the  same  level  both  above 
and  below  the  fall,  as  the  river  precipitates  itself  into  a 
channel  which  it  has  formed  in  the  solid,  but  soft  fetid 
limestone,  and  which,  as  is  usually  contended,  has  been 
hollowed  out  by  the  receding  cataract,  all  the  way  from 
Lewistown,  distant  seven  miles. 

This  fact  has  been  sometimes  doubted,  but  it  would 
appear,  without  much  reason.  It  has  been  ascertained 
that  an  irregular  ledge  of  rock  is  extended  between  the 
lakes  Erie  and  Ontario,  at  a  varying  distance  from  either 
of  them;  sometimes  piercing  through  the  soil  that  covers 
it,  and  in  many  places  jutting  out  with  salient  and  re- 
entering  angles,  like  an  immense  fortification ;  and  it  has 
been  supposed  that  the  Niagara  river  has  found  its  way 
into  one  of  the  ravines  formed  between  them,  which  has 
thus  become  the  bed  of  the  river,  towards  lake  Ontario. 
This  theory,  however,  is  very  much  weakened,  if  not 
entirely  overthrown,  by  the  observations  of  our  country- 
man, Lieutenant  Owen,  who,  when  employed  on  the 


152  SIX    MONTHS 

government  surveys  in  the  years  1815,  16,  17  and  18, 
contrived  to  force  his  boat  nearer  to  the  foot  of  the  falls 
than  any  person  had  ever  done,  and  ascertained  by  re- 
peated soundings,  that  the  nearly  constant  depth  of  the 
river  from  Lewistown  to  the  falls,  was  about  two  hundred 
feet,  excepting  in  limited  spaces,  where  it  did  not  exceed 
forty-five  feet  These  spaces  or  points  he  conceived  to 
be  composed  of  granite  "  in  situ,"  or  of  some  other  rock, 
which  being  harder  than  the  soft  lime-stone  of  which 
the  bed  of  the  river  is  generally  composed,  had  offered  a 
proportionably  greater  resistance  to  the  regular  action  of 
the  falling  element. 

Having  first  stripped  off  my  clothes,  and  enveloped 
myself  in  an  oilskin  dress,  I  followed  a  guide  who  con- 
ducted me  under  the  fall.  This  is  a  service  of  some 
danger,  as  a  single  false  step  in  some  places  might  prove 
fatal.  As  we  crept  along  the  side  of  the  rock,  we  en- 
countered a  most  furious  gust  of  wind,  that  increased  in 
violence  till  we  were  fairly  behind  the  sheet  of  water, 
and  arrived  at  what  is  called  the  Termination  Rock. 
Here  we  remained  for  a  few  minutes,  gasping  for  breath, 
stunned  with  the  noise,  and  drenched  with  a  shower  of 
spray.  If  I  wished  to  speak,  I  was  obliged  to  put  my 
mouth  close  to  the  ear  of  the  guide,  and  to  raise  my 
voice  to  the  utmost ;  and  it  was  with  the  greatest  diffi- 
culty that  I  could  look  upwards  for  a  moment,  and 
glance  at  the  tumbling  element,  as  it  rushed  over  the 
edge  of  the  rock  that  towered  high  above  our  heads,  and 
then  fell  into  the  abyss  within  arm's  length  of  us,  with 
the  rapidity  of  lightning. 

About  half  a  mile  below  the  fall,  the  river  is  crossed 
in  a  ferry-boat.  On  the  American  side  a  wooden  bridge 
of  admirable  construction  conducts  the  visiter  to  Goat 
island,  the  larger  of  the  two  which  divides  the  fall.  A 
walk  of  a  few  minutes  will  lead  him  to  another  bridge, 
thrown  from  rock  to  rock,  till  it  actually  overhangs  the 
edge  of  the  principal  part  of  the  cataract.  I  am  fully 
persuaded,  that  when  any  one  who  has  seen  the  fall 
from  this  spot  asserts  that  he  is  disappointed,  it  is  but  a 
proof  of  insufferable  affectation,  or  what  Johnson  would 
call  u  stark  insensibility."  It  is  possible,  that  some  flat- 
souled  Dutchman,  who  would  think  of  nothing  but  how 
he  might  turn  the  course  of  the  river  by  a  dam  ;  or  some 
passionless  manufacturing  Yankee,  who  would  "  guess  it 
to  be  a  pity  that  such  an  almighty  water  power  should 


IN    AMERICA.  153 

remain  unemployed,"  might  regard  the  scene,  when 
viewed  from  any  other  point,  and  remain  unmoved  by 
its  grandeur ;  but  it  is  next  to  impossible  to  look  upon  it 
from  this  bridge,  and  not  be  affected  with  something 
like  awe  and  astonishment.  Let  the  atheist — and,  if  he 
\yill,  with  wine  and  warmth  in  his  bosom — repair  to  this 
sgjot,  as  is  usual,  by  moonlight,  when  one-half  of  the 
cataract  is  in  shade,  and  the  other  glistening  with  more 
than  snowy  whiteness, — he  may  there  gaze  in  security, 
and  enjoy  the  sublime  without  terror ;  and  should  one 
thought  of  annihilation  trouble  him  —  should  he  covet 
the  pinion  of  the  bald  eagle  as  he  fearlessly  glides  over 
the  abyss,  or  envy  the  finned  tribe  that  can  live  and 
revel  in  the  boiling  gulf  beneath  —  let  him  reflect  that 
his  reason  is  with  him,  the  undoubted  substitute  for 
these  physical  advantages  ;  his  reason,  alike  the  pro- 
moter of  his  happiness,  and  the  medium  of  his  misery. 
Then,  turning  to  a  more  tranquil  scene,  let  him  gaze  on 
the  silvery  spirit-like  beauties  of  the  lunar  rainbow ;  let 
him  observe  the  worlds  upon  worlds  that  throng  the  hea- 
vens above  him,  declaring  the  existence  of  their  Creator, 
as  they  roll  onward  in  eternal  obedience  to  his  will,  but 
in  silent  amazement  at  his  meaning  ;  and  let  him  ask 
why  his  reason  should  be,  as  it  were,  so  tantalized  by  his 
senses.  Had  no  lesson  been  intended,  the  firmament 
might  as  well  have  been  placed  far  beyond  the  reach  of 
ir.ortal  sight;  and  perhaps  the  little  he  can  see  and  know 
of  it  may  teach  him  to  believe  in,  and  hope  for,  another 
and  happier  home,  by  proving  to  him,  at  once,  how 
much  must  be  withheld  from  him,  and  how  much  must 
remain  to  be  enjoyed. 

I  am  not  aware  whether  the  experiment  has  ever  been 
tried,  but  I  should  conceive  that  the  effect  of  a  Bengal 
light,  sent  up  from  this  bridge  on  a  dark  stormy  winter's 
night,  would  be  exceedingly  fine. 

At  about  two  miles  below  the  fall,  the  river  again  be- 
comes a  torrent.  I  proceeded  along  the  edge  of  the 
chasm  through  which  it  rages,  in  order  to  visit  "  the 
whirlpool,"  whose  deep  and  gloomy  appearance  well  re- 
paid me  for  a  very  hot  walk. 

I  procured  a  hack,  and  rode  to  the  abyss  in  the  side 
of  the  river,  known  by  the  appellation  of  the  "  Devil's 
Hole."  I  followed  a  party  who  had  descended  the  lad- 
ders before  me ;  we  all,  as  I  learned  afterwards,  took 
a  wrong  path  to  the  right,  which  soon  conducted  us  to 


154  SIX    MONTHS 

the  edge  of  a  small  but  impassable  precipice,  and  under 
the  impression  that  we  had  seen  all  that  was  worth  see- 
ing, we  re-ascended  the  ladders  and  returned  to  Niagara, 
after  having  enjoyed  a  very  fine  view  of  the  river  from 
the  bold  flattened  rock,  that  is  projected  on  the  left 
hand. 

The  road  by  which  I  passed  down  the  Canadian  side 
of  the  river,  for  the  purpose  of  joining  the  steamboat  on 
Lake  Ontario,  at  but  a  very  short  distance  from  Niagara, 
lies  over  the  field  of  the  murderous  and  severely  con- 
tested battle  of  Bridgewater,  or  Lundy's  Lane,  which 
was  fought  on  the  night  of  the  25th  of  July,  1814,  and 
terminated  without  much  advantage  to  either  party.  A 
few  miles  further  on,  to  the  left,  is  a  heavy -looking  pil- 
lar, erected  to  the  memory  of  General  Brock,  who  was 
killed  early  in  the  battle  of  Queenston,  October  13, 1812, 
in  which  the  Americans  were  forced  to  repass  the  river 
with  great  loss,  whilst  several  thousands  of  their  militia 
were  idly  looking  on  from  the  other  bank. 

Near  the  mouth  of  the  river,  on  the  Canadian  side,  is 
Fort  George ;  on  the  American  bank  stands  Fort  Ni- 
agara, in  which  the  notorious  William  Morgan,  who 
wrote  a  book,  in  which,  as  I  have  before  remarked,  he 
revealed  the  secrets  of  freemasonry,  was  confined  under 
false  pretences,  previously  to  his  being,  murdered  by 
some  fanatic  masons,  and  afterwards,  as  it  is  supposed, 
pitched  into  the  lake,  or  the  Niagara  river. 

I  am  afraid  I  shall  be  excommunicated  by  my  Ame- 
rican readers,  as  I  visited  neither  the  Erie  nor  the  Wei- 
land  canals  ;  not  even  the  locks  at  Lockport,  or  the 
Deep  Cut,  or  the  Mountain  Ridge.  TheWelland  canal, 
however,  is  unquestionably  a  great  national  work,  and 
reflects  much  credit  upon  the  spirited  individuals  by 
whom  it  was  undertaken ;  by  its  means,  the  obstacles 
presented  to  navigation  by  the  falls  of  the  Niagara,  have 
been  effectually  overcome,  and  a  communication  opened 
between  the  lakes  Erie  and  Ontario. 

Ontario  is  one  of  the  deepest  of  the  lakes  —  its  mean 
depth  being  about  six  hundred  feet.  It  has  been  ascer- 
tained that  the  bottom  of  lake  Erie,  which  is  two  hun- 
dred and  seventy  miles  in  length,  is  six  feet  higher  than 
the  surface  of  lake  Ontario.  The  distance  between  the 
two  lakes  is  thirty-five  miles,  in  which  space  the  river 
Niagara  is  supposed  to  fall  about  three  hundred  feet, 
which  is  therefore  the  depth  of  lake  Erie, 


IN    AMERICA.  155 

I  embarked  in  a  splendid  steamboat,  "  the  Great  Bri- 
tain," proceeding  to  Kingston,  at  the  other  end  of  the 
lake.  I  could  not  but  remark,  that  although  a  finer  ves- 
sel, her  table  was  by  no  means  so  well  supplied  as  that 
of  the  American  boat,  in  which  I  had  made  my  excur- 
sion to  the  great  lakes. 

During  the  short  time  we  remained  at  Kingston,  we 
were  entertained  by  the  band  of  the  66th,  which  gave  us 
the  national  airs  of  England  and  America  in  the  finest 
style  :  the  principal  British  naval  establishment  and  dock- 
yard on  the  lakes,  is  at  Kingston.  I  observed  two  first- 
raters  and  a  large  frigate  on  the  stocks.  The  St.  Lawrence, 
of  one  hundred  and  twenty  guns,  which  made  one  cruise 
at  the  end  of  the  last  war,  was  rotten,  and  half  sunk  in 
the  water.  There  were  several  smaller  vessels  in  ordi- 
nary ;  but  those  on  the  stocks  are  not  to  be  proceeded 
with,  according  to  the  stipulations  of  the  treaty  of 
Ghent. 

Immediately  afterwards,  we  entered  the  thousand 
u  islands,"  extending  for  sixty  miles  up  the  river  St  Law- 
rence. There  are  in  fact  twelve  hundred  of  them,  and 
although  certainly  very  picturesque,  are  without  variety, 
and  much  resemble  those  on  the  lakes,  being  flat,  and 
thickly  covered  with  trees.  Their  number  is  not  of 
course  perceived,  as  they  lie  so  closely  together  along 
the  side  of  the  channel,  that  they  appear  more  like  points 
or  promontories  from  the  main  shore. 

I  quitted  the  steamer  at  Cornwall,  and  entered  a  large 
boat  with  a  number  of  ladies  and  gentlemen,  who,  like 
myself,  wished  to  descend  the  rapids.  In  our  way  to 
Montreal,  we  were  obliged  to  change  our  mode  of  travel- 
ling by  land  and  water,  no  less  than  four  times  in  one 
day.  The  river  above  Montreal  is  full  of  rapids.  The 
most  formidable  of  these  are  called  the  Long  Saut,  and 
the  rapids  of  the  Cedars.  We  passed  down  two  or  three 
of  minor  consideration,  and  then  commenced  the  descent 
of  the  "  Long  Saut."  Our  boat  was  carried  along  at  a 
great  rate  for  several  miles,  and  soon  approached  the 
only  part  that  can  be  considered  dangerous,  where  the 
river  was  running  with  appalling  violence.  The  waves, 
as  soon  as  they  are  formed,  do  not  subside  and  then 
swell  up  again  at  regular  distances,  but  dart  furiously 
onward,  racing  and  crowding  upon  each  other  in  a  most 
extraordinary  confusion  of  spray  and  foam,  that  rises  to 
a  height  of  four  or  five  feet,  and  splashes  over  the  sides 


156  SIX    MONTHS 

of  the  boat  to  the  great  discomfiture  of  the  ladies'  dresses, 
and  the  very  serious  looks  of  the  gentlemen.  The  boat- 
men directed  our  attention  to  the  rapids  of  the  "  Lost 
Channel "  on  our  left,  from  which  we  were  divided  by 
an  island.  They  are  far  more  dangerous  than  those  we 
were  passing,  and  at  a  distance  of  half  a  mile,  we  could 
see  that  the  river  was  most  terribly  agitated.  The 
"  Lost  Channel "  receives  its  name  from  the  number  of 
persons  that  have  perished  there.  In  the  old  French 
war,  three  hundred  British  troops  were  lost  in  the  tor- 
rent :  the  first  boat  took  the  wrong  channel,  the  others 
followed,  and  all  went  to  pieces.  The  floating  bodies 
first  intimated  to  a  French  garrison  on  the  river  below, 
the  surprise  that  had  been  intended  for  them.  The  boat- 
men are,  of  course,  usually  experienced  persons,  and  if 
sober  there  is  no  danger ;  but  it  is  not  always  that  they 
are  so.  At  one  place  our  tipsy  pilots  allowed  the  boat  to 
swing  across  the  stream :  fortunately  the  worst  of  the 
rapids  were  passed,  or  an  accident  might  have  occurred. 
Both  the  Long  Saut,  and  those  of  the  Cedars,  which  we 
saw  from  the  road,  are  certainly  more  boisterous  than 
those  at  the  Saut  de  St.  Marie,  on  account  of  the  greater 
body  of  water  in  the  St.  Lawrence,  but  the  descent  at 
the  latter  is  more  rapid,  as  the  fall  is  far  more  precipitate 
in  proportion  to  its  length. 

I  entered  a  steamboat  on  the  banks  of  the  Ottawa, 
which,  although  a  noble-looking  stream  in  other  respects, 
is  dark  and  dirty  in  comparison  with  the  St.  Lawrence. 
The  latter  river  seems  not  to  relish  the  alliance.  A  sud- 
den change  is  perceivable  in  the  colour  of  the  water,  the 
line  of  junction  being  distinctly  observable,  and  for 
scores  of  miles  down  the  St.  Lawrence,  its  clearer  wa- 
ters confine  themselves  to  the  eastern  bank,  while  those 
on  the  western  are  discoloured  by  the  "  Ottawa  tide." 
I  afterwards  ascended  the  Ottawa.  We  arrived  at  La 
Chine,  and  proceeded  by  land  to  Montreal.  The  moun- 
tain behind  it  was  already  in  sight,  but  the  city  itself  by 
this  road  remained  hidden  till  we  were  within  a  very 
few  miles  of  it.  I  passed  through  it  the  same  evening, 
intending  to  see  it  on  my  return.  The  Hercules,  a  very 
fine  steamboat,  carried  me  to  Quebec  in  about  twenty 
hours,  touching  at  "the  Three  Rivers,"  eighty-four 
miles  from  Quebec,  and  ninety-six  from  Montreal.  Six 
miles  from  Quebec,  we  passed  the  mouth  of  the  Chau- 
diere  river,  celebrated  for  its  falls,  which  are  situated 


IN    AMEKICA.  157 

about  three  or  four  miles  from  the  spot  where  it  empties 
itself  into  the  St.  Lawrence,  whose  banks  every  where 
interesting,  become  still  more  so  on  approaching  Quebec, 
being  thickly  lined  with  Canadian  villages.  Every  cot- 
tage is  white;  the  churches  are  of  the  same  colour,  with 
their  spires  covered  with  tin,  and  are  frequently  to  be 
seen  at  a  great  distance,  out-topping  the  neighbouring 
forest,  and  glistening  in  the  sunbeam.  In  some  places 
the  river  is  two  miles  in  width ;  but  at  Quebec  it  is  nar- 
rowed to  about  a  mile,  which  adds  to  the  beauty  of  the 
view  by  making  the  lofty  banks  appear  higher  than  they 
really  are.  On  the  left  are  seen  the  fortifications  on 
Cape  Diamond,  the  most  elevated  spot  in  the  vicinity  of 
the  city.  On  the  right  is  point  Levi.  At  different  dis- 
tances down  the  river  are  Cape  Tourment,  and  the  Beau- 
fort mountains,  and  the  Isle  of  Orleans,  dividing  the 
river  into  two  channels — that  on  the  left  being  danger- 
ous for  any  but  very  small  vessels.  The  city  itself  was 
not  visible  till  the  boat  was  standing  in  for  the  landing- 
place.  Numerous  merchant  ships  were  lying  at  anchor 
in  different  parts  of  the  river ;  whilst  rafts,  ferry-boats, 
and  smaller  craft,  were  moving  in  all  directions.  The 
Government- House,  or  Castle  of  St.  Louis,  was  the  most 
prominent  object :  below  it  on  the  right,  is  the  old  parlia- 
ment house.  The  space  which  intervenes  between  these 
buildings  and  the  water,  is  occupied  by  the  lower  town, 
which,  like  all  lower  towns,  is  far  more  dirty  and  lively 
than  the  upper  ones,  where  some  of  the  streets  are  dull 
and  even  gloomy.  The  only  two  large  steeples  in  Que- 
bec, are  those  of  the  Protestant  and  Catholic  churches. 
The  upper  town  is  surrounded  by  a  strong  rampart,  and 
cannon  are  planted  in  every  place  where  they  could  be 
used  with  advantage  in  case  of  a  siege.  The  whole  city 
is  commanded  by  the  fortress  on  Cape  Diamond,  which 
it  is  supposed,  when  finished,  will  be  impregnable.  The 
interior  works  occupy  a  space  of  about  six  acres,  and  are 
advanced  to  the  edge  of  the  precipice,  where  it  is  about 
three  hundred  and  fifty  feet  in  height.  In  1775,  the 
American  General  Montgomery,  and  his  two  aides-de- 
camp, were  killed  by  the  same  cannon-shot  at  the  water's 
edge  beneath  the  fort. 

I  think  I  shall  never  forget  the  appearance  of  the  view 
from  the  ramparts.     It  is  very  beautiful  and  inexpres- 
sibly enlivening.     In  looking  down  the  river,  the  Isle 
d'Or leans  is  on  the  right ;  in  the  extreme  distance  is 
14 


158  SIX  MONTHS 

Cape  Tourment ;  while  on  the  left  is  a  gently  sloping 
bank,  exhibiting  all  the  varied  hues  of  extensive  cultiva- 
tion, between  thirty  and  forty  miles  in  length,  and 
from  two  to  five  and  six  miles  in  width,  and  reaching 
from  the  margin  of  the  water  to  the  foot  of  the  Beaufort 
mountains.  The  most  conspicuous  villages  are  Indian 
Lorettee,  Charleburgh,  Beaufort,  and  the  Chateau  Richer, 
easily  distinguished  by  their  light  steeples  covered  with 
tin.  Beside  these,  many  hundreds  of  white  cottages 
are  scattered  over  the  plain ;  and  the  road  to  Montmo- 
renci  is  entirely  lined  with  them.  I  was  reminded  by 
the  prospect,  of  the  highly  cultivated  garden  that  envi- 
rons a  city  on  the  eastern  coast  of  Spain.  Olive  trees 
and  vineyards,  it  is  true,  there  were  none  ;  but  olive 
trees  and  vineyards  are  not  missed  at  a  great  distance, 
and  the  Charleburg  country  is  backed  by  the  fine  range 
of  the  Beaufort  mountains,  which,  although  not  of  the 
highest  elevation,  can  yet  boast  of  a  very  picturesque 
outline  ;  and  being  thickly  covered  with  a  noble  forest, 
have  at  least  one  advantage  over  the  barren  rocks  that 
usually  rear  their  heads  in  the  vicinity  of  a  Spanish 
44  vega." 

On  the  south  side  of  the  city,  at  a  distance  of  two 
miles,  are  the  plains  of  Abraham,  and  at  their  further 
extremity,  is  Wolfe's  cave.  The  view  from  the  bank 
above  is  scarcely  less  enchanting  than  that  I  had  so 
lately  turned  from.  On  the  western  horizon  are  seen  the 
mountains  which  by  the  late  decision  of  the  king  of  the 
Netherlands  are  to  form  the  boundary  line  between  the 
Canadas  and  the  United  States.  The  intermediate  land- 
scape  is  most  delightful ;  large  yellow  patches  of  culti- 
vation rescued  from  the  apparently  endless  forest,  are 
espied  in  different  directions,  each  surrounding  some 
thriving  village  in  the  interior,  whilst  the  opposite  banks 
of  the  river  are  fringed  with  Canadian  cottages,  as  white 
as  lime  and  brush  can  make  them  ;  and  the  intervening 
and  majestic  waters  of  the  St.  Lawrence  having-  at  length 
escaped  from  the  turbulence  of  the  rapids,  are  seen  flow- 
ing beneath,  as  calmly  and  as  silently,  as  when,  during 
the  darkness  of  a  night  more  than  seventy  years  ago, 
the  gallant  Wolfe  was  floated  on  the  retiring  tide  to  his 
victory  and  his  grave. 

Till  within  a  year  or  two,  the  stone  close  to  which  he 
breathed  his  last,  was  remaining  on  the  field ;  but  the 
proprietor,  a  person  of  infinite  taste,  has  had  it  removed, 


IN     AMERICA.  159 

part  of  it  having  been  used  for  the  purposes  of  the  builder, 
while  other  parts  of  it  are  constantly  undergoing  a  pro- 
cess of  subdivision  for  the  benefit  of  the  curious. 

A  plain  but  very  elegant  stone  obelisk,  worth  a  dozen 
such  as  Washington's  monument  at  Baltimore,  or 
General  Brock's  at  Queen's  town  Heights,  had  been 
lately  erected  to  the  memory  of  Wolfe  and  Montcalm. 
The  idea  of  paying  the  last  tribute  to  the  memory  of 
those  illustrious  soldiers,  originated  with  Lord  Dalhousie. 
A  singularly  chaste  classical  inscription  from  the  pen  of 
Dr.  Fisher,  the  editor  of  the  Quebec  Gazette,  will  be  en- 
graved in  front  of  the  monument.  It  is  as  follows  : 

WOLFE— MONTCALM. 



MORTEM.     VIRTUS.     COMMUNEM.  . 

FAMAM.     HISTORIA. 
MONUMENTUM    PoSTERITAS. 

DEDIT. 
A.  S.  1827. 

A  longer  inscription  will  be  placed  on  the  other  side 
of  the  monument.  An  aged  nun  is  now  living  in  the 
Ursuline  convent  at  Quebec,  who  remembers  having 
held  a  taper  when  the  remains  of  the  chivalrous  French- 
man were  lowered  to  his  grave  in  the  chapel  vault.  I 
saw  a  small  oval  slab  of  marble,  which  was  shortly  to  be 
fixed  in  the  wall  near  the  spot  where  he  is  buried.  It 
bore  the  following  inscription : — "  Honneur  a  Montcalm : 
le  dest  in  en  lui  derobant  la  victoire,  1'a  recompense"  par 
une  mort  glorieuse." 

Quebec  was  taken  from  the  French  in  the  reign  of 
Charles  I.,  130  years  before  the  death  of  Wolfe,  but 
being  thought  of  little  value,  was  given  up  in  the  same 
reign  to  Louis  XIII.,  by  the  treaty  of  St.  Germain. 

At  Lorette  are  to  be  purchased  the  best  Indian  moo- 
casins,  and  other  leathern  curiosities,  at  the  house  of 
Mere  Paul.  The  three  Huron  chiefs  who  visited  Eng- 
land in  1825,  and  who  were  introduced  in  the  first  circles 
in  London,  may  now  be  seen,  any  hot  day,  sober  or  in- 
toxicated, just  as  it  may  happen,  sitting  perhaps  in  the 
dust,  before  the  doors  of  their  cottages.  They  take  great 
pleasure  in  showing  the  medals  and  portraits  they  re- 
ceived in  England,  and  the  queen,  or  wife  of  the  princi- 
pal chief — a  short,  dumpy,  masculine  woman — occasion- 
ally comes  to  Quebec  to  sell  moccasins,  and  has  no 


160  SIX  MONTHS 

aboriginal  antipathy  to  a  glass  of  gin.  She  constantly 
.  wears  in  her  bosom  (and  very  close  to  it  too)  a  silver 
medal,  presented  to  her  husband  by  the  Lord  Mayor. 
There  is  some  good  woodcock  shooting  at  Lorette, 
and  a  very  pretty  waterfall, — the  foam  spreading  itself 
over  the  rocks,  so  as  to  resemble  the  finest  lacework. 

On  looking  up  the  course  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  from 
this  very  interesting  village,  a  wide  opening  is  discerned 
in  the  distant  bank,  once  apparently  the  channel  of  the 
river,  which  at  some  time,  as  is  supposed,  by  a  junction 
with  the  mouth  of  the  river  St.  Charles,  made  an  island 
of  the  promontory  on  which  Quebec  now  stands. 

The  Canadian  cottages  are  in  general  extremely  neat, 
the  windows,  in  particular,  being  remarkably  clean,  and 
occasionally  a  tall  pole  or  flag  staff  is  placed  in  front  of 
them,  to  indicate  the  residence  of  an  officer  of  militia. 

Of  the  falls  of  Montmorenci,  I  will  only  remark,  that 
they  are  well  worth  the  ride,  or  the  walk,  or  the  sail  to 
them.  The  splendid  view  of  Quebec,  the  river  and  the 
surrounding  country,  that  is  enjoyed  from  the  ground 
above  them,  is  a  sufficient  recompense ;  and  no  stranger 
should  leave  Quebec  without  paying  them  a  visit.  The 
same  may  be  said  of  the  falls  of  the  Chaudiere.  They 
are  in  fact  much  finer  than  those  of  Montmorenci,  and 
within  riding  distance. 

At  Chateau  Richer  there  is  one  of  the  best  snipe 
grounds  in  the  Canadas.  In  October  they  may  be  shot 
in  extraordinary  numbers,  but  should  the  sportsman  be 
disappointed  in  finding  his  game,  he  may  proceed  to  the 
falls  of  St  Anne,  distant  twelve  miles.  I  mention  this, 
supposing  him  to  be  a  regular  water-fall  man.  I  had 
ceased  to  be  so  since  I  had  seen  Niagara.  The  different 
accounts  I  heard  of  Lake  Charles  prevented  me  from 
going  there.  Some  told  me  it  was  full  of  cat-fish,  and 
large  frogs,  which  eat  the  little  ones ;  others  called  it  a 
beautiful  lake,  and  that  good  trout-fishing  was  to  be  had 
there.  I  certainly  eat  some  small  ones,  which  had  been 
caught  there,  of  a  most  delicious  flavour. 

The  attractions  of  Jaques  Carrier,  twenty-seven  miles 
from  Quebec,  were  not  to  be  so  trifled  with.  This  is 
the  finest  place  for  salmon-fishing  in  the  Canadas,  and  a 
very  pretty  spot  into  the  bargain.  All  is  as  it  should 
be;  there  is  a  small,  but  clean  and  comfortable  country 
inn:  the  landlord  throws  a  fly  beautifully;  his  sister,  a 
very  pretty  Canadian  girl,  waits  at  table ;  and  the 


IN  AMERICA.  J61 

mother  broils  the  salmon  a  merveille.  The  river,  at  all 
times  a  torrent,  and  now  very  much  swollen  by  two 
whole  days'  rain,  was  rushing  with  the  greatest  fury 
through  the  narrow  channel  it  has  worn  for  itself  through 
the  solid  rock.  The  bridge  which  is  close  to  the  inn,  is 
a  very  neat  government  work.  Under  it  is  a  hole,  forty 
or  fifty  feet  in  depth;  and  when  the  river  is  low  and 
clear,  salmon  may  be  seen  lying  there  in  great  numbers. 
But  the  season  was  too  far  advanced,  the  weather 
entirely  too  cold,  and  the  river  too.  high :  and  my 
friend  and  I,  seeing  that  we  could  not  expect  sport, 
returned,  having  killed  but  one  salmon  a-piece  in  the 
course  of  the  afternoon.  A  fine  <open  ledge  of  rocks 
extends  along  side  the  river,  affording  some  excellent 
fishing  stations.  The  place  is  named  after  Jaques 
Cartier,  who  first  sailed  up  the  St.  Lawrence  in  1535, 
and  founded  the  city  of  Montreal.  He  is  said  to 
have  wintered  there,  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  which 
bears  his  name.  On  his  return  to  France,  he  was  of 
course  coolly  received,  as  he  brought  no  precious  metals. 
He  sailed  a  second  time,  with  orders  to  establish  a  colony 
on  the  St.  Lawrence,  but  having  had  the  misfortune  to 
quarrel  with  the  Indians,  he  returned  to  his  native 
country  to  die  of  a  broken  heart. 

The  Canadian  peasantry  are  of  the  middle  size,  or 
under  it.  Although  they  breathe  some  of  the  purest  air 
in  America,  their  countenances  are  wan,  and  unhealthy 
in  appearance.  They  may  be  said  to  be  smoke-dried, 
being  seldom  without  a  pipe  in  their  mouths,  and  in 
winter  they  shut  themselves  up  in  their  cottages,  and 
breathe  an  atmosphere  of  tobacco  fumes.  I  am  not  of 
course  speaking  of  the  athletic  progeny  of  British  settlers, 
when  I  affirm  that  a  tall,  fine  hale-looking  man  is  rarely 
to  be  met  with.  Nevertheless,  the  French  Canadians 
are  a  brave,  hardy,  independent  race,  and  happier,  I 
should  imagine,  than  any  peasantry  in  the  world.  They 
pay  no  taxes,  or  just  sufficient  to  keep  the  roads  in  re- 
pair.  Most  of  them  have  small  farms,  and  find  a  ready 
market  for  the  produce;  and  those  who  have  no  land  of 
their  own,  can  easily  find  employment  with  those  that 
have.  They  never  give  away  money,  but  are  exceed- 
ingly hospitable  in  other  respects ;  and  the  poor  Irish 
emigrant,  who  is  travelling  barefoot  and  pennyless  to  the 
place  of  his  destination,  is  sure  of  a  meal  at  any  cottage 
where  they  have  one  to  give.  There  still  remains  rrmch 
14* 


162  SIX    MONTHS 

of  the  French  naivete  in  their  character,  and  at  a  few 
miles  from  Quebec,  they  know  and  care  as  little  about 
the  proceedings  of  government,  as  the  Irish  peasant  did, 
and  does  now,  about  Catholic  emancipation.  Without 
meaning  to  detract  from  the  merit  of  their  charity,  it 
may  be  remarked,  that  there  is  something  like  a  spirit 
of  conciliation,  if  not  of  apprehension,  mixed  up  with  it, 
for  they  are  afraid  that  the  "  Bas  de  soie,"  as  they  call 
the  stockingless  Irish,  will  finally  drive  them  and  their 
descendants  from  house  and  home. 

The  population  of  Upper  Canada,  which  I  did  not 
visit  (my  time  being  occupied  in  the  unexpected  voyage 
on  the  Great  Lakes,)  is  about  250,000.  That  of  Lower 
Canada  may  be  estimated  at  500,000 ;  but  the  amount  in 
both  provinces  is  rapidly  increasing.  Sixty  thousand 
emigrants  had  landed  at  Quebec  in  1831,  before  the  river 
was  frozen  up,  being  more  than  double  the  number  that 
arrived  in  1830.  Many  of  them  brought  out  considerable 
sums  of  money.  One  morning  during  my  stay  at  Que- 
bec, an  old  Scotchman,  who  had  lived  about  fourteen 
years  in  the  Canadas,  returned  from  Scotland  with  ninety 
of  his  countrymen,  whom  he  had  persuaded  to  follow 
him  ;  he  himself  bringing  with  him  several  thousand 
pounds,  and  the  others  possessing  one,  two,  or  three 
liundred  pounds  a-piece.  Two  thousand  of  the  emi- 
grants that  arrived  in  Upper  Canada,  were  small  farm- 
ers from  the  North  of  England. 

The  soil  of  Upper  Canada  is  as  productive  as  any  in 
the  world,  so  that  the  emigrant  has  no  occasion  to  pass 
the  United  States,  in  order  to  obtain  a  better,  unless 
he  proceed  to  particular  spots,  where  he  would  be  liable 
to  catch  a  fever  and  ague,  and  where  the  excessive  heats 
together  with  the  moisture  and  richness  of  the  soil,  ren. 
der  it  so  hastily  prolific,  that  it  is  often  a  matter  of  great 
uncertainty  whether  a  crop  will  arrive  at  perfection. 
The  strong  natural  prejudice  in  favour  of  the  British 
flag ;  the  fact  that  the  British  manufactures  can  be  pur- 
chased after  payment  of  a  very  trifling  duty  of  two  per 
cent.,  whereas  they  must  have  paid  an  average  duty  of 
30  per  cent,  if  coming  via  the  United  States  :  that  lands 
of  equal  fertility,  and  possessing  equal  advantages  of 
situation,  are  sold  at  one  half  the  price  that  is  paid  in  the 
United  States :  that  the  climate  of  the  Canadas  is  most 
decidedly  the  healthier  of  the  two ;  are  additional  and 


IN    AMERICA.  163 

substantial  inducements  to  a  permanent  residence  in  the 
British  colonies.  Good  land  in  the  best  situations  is 
sold  by  the  Canada  land  company  at  from  10s.  to  15s. 
the  acre:  their  sales  for  the  year  1831,  having  amounted 
to  100,000  acres  at  an  average  price  of  10s.  per  acre. 
One-seventh  of  the  lands  in  every  township  in  the  United 
States  is  reserved  for  the  payment  of  the  clergy  ;  and  the 
agent  for  the  clergy  reserves,  is  authorised  to  sell  100,000 
acres  a  year  at  15s.  an  acre. 

The  nature  of  uncleared  land  is  known  by  the  timber 
which  grows  upon  it.  Where  a  great  variety  of  timber 
abounds,  the  soil  is  generally  a  black  loam.  A  clayey 
soil  is  known  by  the  great  proportion  of  firs  intermixed 
with  other  trees,  but  when  they  grow  alone,  it  is  found 
that  sand  usually  predominates.  This  is  also  the  case 
where  there  are  none  but  oaks  and  chestnut  trees.  Po- 
tatoes and  turnips  succeed  better  than  any  other  crop  on 
newly  cleared  land. 

Both  in  the  United  States,  and  the  Canadas,  great 
quantities  of  sugar  are  made  from  the  maple  tree.  The 
molasses  are  an  excellent  substitute  for  sweetmeats.  In 
the  month  of  March,  a  notch  is  cut  in  the  tree,  and  a 
small  pipe  of  wood  is  fastened  into  it,  through  which 
the  sap  runs  into  a  wooden  trough  that  is  placed  to  re- 
ceive it,  and  in  this  manner  from  five  to  seven  pounds' 
weight  of  sugar  may  be  obtained  annually  from  one 
tree.  The  process  of  boiling  and  preparing  the  sugar 
takes  place  in  the  forest. 

The  agents  of  the  Canada  Land  Company,  on  the  ar- 
rival of  emigrants  at  Quebec  or  Montreal,  for  the  season 
of  1832,  undertake  to  convey  them  free  of  expense  to 
York  or  the  head  of  Lake  Ontario,  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
choicest  lands,  provided  the  emigrants  pay  a  first  in- 
stalment in  London,  Quebec,  or  Montreal,  of  two  shil- 
lings an  acre  upon  not  less  than  one  hundred  acres :  and 
the  company's  agents  in  all  parts  of  the  Upper  Province, 
will  give  such  emigrants  every  information  and  assist- 
ance in  their  power.  Should  emigrants  on  their  arrival  at 
York  not  settle  on  the  company's  lands,  the  money  paid 
by  them  will  be  returned,  deducting  the  actual  expense 
of  conveyance.  At  York  there  are  large  buildings  ex- 
pressly appropriated  to  the  reception  of  emigrant  fami- 
lies previously  to  their  finding  employment ;  and  both  the 
government  and  the  Canada  Land  Company  have  wag- 
ons drawn  up  on  the  wharves,  in  order  to  convey  them 
and  their  baggage  from  the  place  of  landing. 


164  SIX    MONTHS 

I  cannot  add  any  thing  new  to  the  particulars  given 
in  the  printed  papers  relating  to  emigration,  which  are 
issued  both  bv  government  and  the  Canada  Land  Com- 
pany ;  to  say  nothing  of  the  "  Wiltshire  Letters,"  or  the 
"  Hints  to  Emigrants,"  published  at  Quebec.  These 
may  all  be  purchased  for  a  few  pence,  and  the  informa- 
tion they  contain  is,  of  course,  derived  from  the  best 
sources.  Their  instructions  and  advice  on  the  subject 
of  imposition,  which  might  be  practised  upon  emigrants 
at  their  first  arrival,  will  be  found  most  useful. 

Wheat  at  the  Canadas,  according  to  the  distance  from 
the  place  of  export,  varies  from  3s.  to  5*.  6d.  the  bushel ; 
beef  (winter)  2$d.  the  pound,   (summer)  3£rf.   to  4d. ; 
mutton  in  the  winter  is  2$d.  the  pound,  in  summer  it  is 
a  little  dearer  ;  potatoes  are  from  Is.  to  2s.  the  bushel ; 
a  goose  or  a  turkey  may  be  purchased  for  2s.  or  2s.  6d., 
and  a  couple  of  fowls  for  Is.  or  Is.  6d.     Ship-carpenters 
can  earn  from  5*.  to  7$.  a-day  ;  labourers  2s.  6rf.  to  4?. 
a-day  ;  handicraft  tradesmen  from  5s.  to  7s.  6d.  a-day  ; 
house -servants  receive  from  26s.  to  36s.  a-month,  with 
food;  females  from  151.  to  30J.  a-month,  with  food.     In 
Quebec  and  Montreal,  excellent  board  and  lodging  may 
be  obtained  in  the  principal  hotels  and  boarding-houses 
at  20s.  to  305.  a-week.     A  labourer  or  mechanic  would 
pay  7s.  to  9s.  6rf.  a-week,  for  which  he  will  get  tea  or 
coffee,  with  meat  for  breakfast,  a  good  dinner,  and  sup- 
per at  night.     An  excellent  private  dwelling-house  may 
be  rented  at  from  100Z.  to    150J.  a -year  unfurnished ; 
shops  according  to  their  situation  at  from  301.  to  100Z. 
A  farm  of  100  acres  with  20  or  30  acres  clear,  with  a 
dwelling-house,  may  be  purchased  in  the  Canadas  for 
150Z.  to  300/.  according  to  the  situation.     There  are,  1 
believe,  few  persons  who  would  not  allow  that  emigra- 
ion  should  be  encouraged,  at  all  events  as  a  temporary 
emedy,  and  the  rage  for  building  discouraged,  provid- 
d  it  can  be  done  by  just  and  legitimate- means.  TheBri- 
ish  government  have  an  emigrant  agency  at  Quebec  ; 
t  encourages  emigration,  and  finds  co-operation  and  as- 
istance  in  theCanada  Land  Company  and  the  Emigrants' 
Hospital  at  Quebec.     Yet  if  the  timber  trade  in  the 
Canadas    were  suddenly   destroyed    by   the   measures 
which  are  said  to  be  in  contemplation,   the   immediate 
consequence  would  be,  that  the  efforts  of  government  in 
regard  to  one  object  would  be  neutralized  by  its  own 
acts  with  reference  to  another.     At  present,  there  are 


IN   AMERICA.  165 

from  six  hundred  to  eight  hundred  ships  employed  ev- 
ery summer  in  the  timber  trade.  They  sometimes  carry 
out  a  cargo  of  coals,  or  salt,  both  paying  a  very  insigni- 
ficant freight  (coals  sell  in  Quebec  at  26s.  the  chaldron) 
or  more  usually  go  out  as  it  is  termed  in  ballast,  and  thus 
afford  facilities  of  emigration  at  an  exceedingly  cheap 
rate,  to  thousands  whose  absence  from  Great  Britain  is 
an  advantage  to  both  countries,  as  far  as  population  is 
concerned  ;  and  who  otherwise  benefit  the  mother  coun- 
try by  affording  an  additional  market  for  her  cotton 
and  other  manufactures,  which  they  soon  find  the  meana 
of  purchasing.  In  destroying  the  Canada  timber  trade 
by  a  sudden  increase  of  duties,  she  is  depriving  herself 
of  all  these  advantages.  She  would  bring  sudden  ruin 
upon  a  numerous  class  of  individuals  who  have  large 
capitals  invested  in  saw  mills,  and  other  buildings  con- 
nected with  the  trade ;  she  would  deprive  thousands  of 
the  means  of  buying  and  selling  land ;  a  number  of 
ships  would  be  thrown  out  of  employment ;  emigration 
would  be  stopped,  or  at  least  greatly  impeded  for  want  of 
the  facilities  which  are  now  given  ;  England  would  not 
gain  in  the  affections  of  the  Canadas ;  she  would  lose 
a  rapidly  increasing  market,  and  the  benefit  of  a  fine 
race  of  British  peasantry,  who  would  be  ever  ready  to 
fight  in  defence  of  their  newly  adopted  country. 

The  timber  is  cut  in  the  winter,  before  the  sap  rises. 
Suppose  then  that  the  new  duties  were  imposed,  that 
the  trade  had  consequently  ceased,  and  that  next  year 
a  war,  by  which  the  Baltic  would  be  closed,  should  break 
out  about  the  month  of  March,  no  timber  would  have 
been  cut  and  prepared  in  the  Canadas,  and  there  can  be 
no  doubt  that  Great  Britain  would  be  obliged  either  to 
purchase  inferior  timber,  cut  in  the  summer,  and  pre- 
pared at  a  great  additional  expense,  or  remain  without 
a  supply  of  timber  for  sixteen  months.  It  is  said,  and 
with  truth,  that  clearing,  for  the  sake  of  the  timber  only, 
rather  impedes  than  assists  the  progress  of  cultiva- 
tion,— a  few  trees  only  being  selected  on  a  given  space, 
which  are  squared  on  the  spot,  while  the  lumber  and 
branches  are  left  to  present  additional  difficulty  to  the 
farmer  by  becoming  entangled  in  tho  underwood  ;  and 
it  has  been  also  remarked,  that  the  annihilation  of  the 
trade  would  benefit  the  Canadas,  by  augmenting  the 
capital  and  labour  that  is  annually  expended  in  agricul- 
tural purposes,  and  that  the  additional  quantity  of  ex- 


166  SIX    MONTHS 

ported  wheat  would  soon  make  amends  for  their  tem- 
porary loss  :  but  it  should  also  be  considered,  that  the 
white-pine,  which  forms  much  the  largest  proportion  of 
the  timber  exported  from  the  Canada s,  is  in  many 
places  found  on  a  rocky  and  sandy  soil,  which  is  not 
available  for  the  purposes  of  cultivation,  and  moreover 
that  the  quantity  of  wheat  exported,  is  already  increas- 
ing1 with  the  tide  of  emigration  to  an  incalculable 
amount. 

In  a  mercantile  and  political  view,  it  would  be  betterthat 
the  Canada  timber  trade  should  not  be  interfered  with  ;  but 
if  any  increase  of  the  duties  be  resolved  upon,  it  should 
certainly  be  gradual.  One  reason  why  the  Canada  tim- 
ber is  not  so  much  liked  as  that  which  comes  from  the 
Baltic,  is,  that  it  is  not  so  well  squared  and  finished  off 
for  the  market.  In  the  first  year,  a  gradual  increase  of 
duties  might  remedy  this  defect,  by  encouraging  compe- 
tition, while  at  the  same  time  both  the  British  govern- 
ment, and  the  Canadian  capitalist,  would  be  enabled  to 
see  their  way  more  clearly. 

A  great  proportion  of  the  lands  in  Lower  Canada  is 
divided  into  seignories,  which  were  originally  granted 
by  the  French  crown,  under  the  feudal  tenure.  No 
seignory  has  been  created  since  the  conquest  in  1759; 
but  when  crown  lands  have  been  disposed  of,  they  have 
been  granted  in  what  is  termed  free  and  common  soc- 
age,  and  laid  out  like  the  old  seignories,  of  which  there 
are  about  two  hundred,  in  a  direction  of  N.N.W.  by 
E.S.E.,  nearly  at  right  angles  with  the  banks  of  the  St. 
Lawrence.  The  seignor  then  made  grants  or  "conces- 
sions" to  his  under  tenants,  which  by  the  old  French 
custom  were  thirty  acres  in  length,  by.three,  fronting 
the  river.  This  measurement,  however,  is  now  often 
departed  from.  The  seignor  receives  from  his  tenants 
an  annual  rent  of  a  very  trifling  amount,  which  is  not 
redeemable  :  he  is,  also,  entitled  to  a  mutation  fine,  call- 
ed "  lods  et  vents,"  being  one-twelfth  part  of  the  mo- 
ney paid  by  the  purchaser  of  land  within  the  seignory. 
The  old  French  law  compels  the  tenants  to  bring  their 
wheat  to  be  ground  at  the  seignor's  mill.  This  custom 
has  been  sometimes  objected  to,  but  no  complaint  can  be 
reasonably  made  on  the  score  of  its  being  an  injury  to 
the  farmer.  It  imposes  no  burden,  because  he  can  have 
his  wheat  ground  a(  his  awn  door,  and  if  the  seignor's 


IN    AMERICA.  167 

mill  does  not  perform  the  work  properly,  he  may  take 
it  to  another. 

In  the  Canadas,  the  civil  and  criminal  laws  of  Eng- 
land are  in  force  generally,  subject  to  provincial  altera- 
tions. The  old  French  law,  which  was  in  existence 
previously  to  the  year  1663,  is  still  the  law  of  property, 
with  some  exceptions,  in  Lower  Canada.  None  of  the 
laws  enacted  in  France  since  that  period,  extended  to 
the  colony  unless  enregistered  there.  This  is  the  rea- 
son why  the  ordinance  of  1673,  for  the  better  regulation 
of  trade,  is  not  in  force.  The  criminal  laws  of  England 
were  transplanted  into  the  colonies,  by  14  Geo.  iii.  c.  83, 
and,  of  course,  none  passed  since  that  period  can  be- 
come law  in  the  Canadas,  unless  they  are  particularly 
specified  and  included  in  their  provisions.  Properly 
speaking,  the  Canadas  have  no  commercial  code.  Great 
confusion  sometimes  arises  respecting  the  decisions  ac- 
cording to  the  English  custom  of  merchants,  and  those 
made  under  the  old  French  code,  and  actions  at  law 
are  frequently  settled  according  to  what  appears  to  be 
the  principle  of  natural  justice,  rather  than  according  to 
established  precedent.  This  surely  conveys  a  reflection 
upon  the  wisdom  of  the  provincial  legislature  ;  but  the 
fact  is,  that  the  mercantile  community  is  not  sufficient- 
represented  in  the  house  of  assembly  for  Lower  Ca- 
nada. 

Lower  Canada  is  divided  into  three  judicial  districts 
— of  Quebec,  the  Three  Rivers,  and  Montreal,  the 
boundary  line  being  drawn  nearly  at  right  angles  with 
the  St.  Lawrence. 

There  are  but  three  courts  of  justice — the  Court  of 
Appeal,  the  King's  Bench,  and  the  Summary  Court. 
The  governor  sometimes  sits  as  president  of  the  Court 
of  Appeal ;  but  the  chair  is  more  often  filled  by  one  of 
the  chief  justices.  The  court  is  formed  by  all  the  mem- 
bers of  the  executive  council. 

The  Court  of  King's  Bench  is  divided  into  a  superior 
and  inferior  court.  The  latter  has  jurisdiction  only 
where  the  matter  in  dispute  is  of  the  value  of  ten  pounds 
or  under.  There  are  a  chief  justice  and  three  puisne 
judges  at  Quebec  ;  the  same  at  Montreal,  and  a  district 
judge  at  the  Three  Rivers.  When  the  superior  com  t 
is  held  at  this  latter  place,  it  is  held  by  one  of  the  chief 
justices,  two  puisne  judges, and  the  district  judge.  The 
summary  courts  have  jurisdiction  over  property  to  the 


168  SIX    MONTHS 

value  of  one  hundred  francs,  and  are  held  once  a  month 
before  a  commissioner  appointed  by  the  provincial  go- 
vernment, on  petition  from  the  country  inhabitants. 
Quarter  sessions  are  held  regufarly  before  three  magis- 
trates, with  much  the  same  power  as  in  England,  for 
the  punishment  of  offences  against  the  criminal  law  ; 
and  petty  civil  cases  may  be  disposed  of  daily  by  one  or 
more  magistrates.  A  magistrate  is  required  to  have 
property  of  the  real  actual  value  of  300/.,  and  the  oaths 
upon  taking  office  are  very  strict. 

A  barrister  may  act  as  an  attorney  and  solicitor  at  the 
same  time, — which,  as  in  the  United  States,  appears  to 
have  originated  in  the  impossibility  of  making  the  pro- 
fession pay,  without  such  an  arrangement.  Pleadings 
may  be  written  in  either  language,  and  English  and 
Canadian  French  are  spoken  almost  indiscriminately 
in  the  courts.  I  have  observed  great  and  unavoidable 
confusion  in  the  inferior  court  of  King's  Bench — the 
judges,  council,  solicitors,  clients,  and  witnesses  all 
talking  occasionally  at  the  same  time  in  either  language, 
just  as  it  may  happen  ;  and  in  the  midst  of  the  uproar, 
the  Stentorian  voice  of  the  officer  of  the  court  may  be 
heard  as  he  endeavours  to  restore  tranquillity  by  calling 
out  Silence!  (English,)  Silence!  (French,)  in  quick 
succession.  But  the  proceedings  in  the  superior  court 
are  conducted  with  all  the  decorum  of  an  English  court 
of  justice  ;  and  the  old  jealous  British  lion,  painted  in 
the  king's  arms  over  the  heads  of  the  judges,  frowns 
grimly  upon  the  scene,  with  a  pair  of  eyebrows  suffi- 
cient to  inspire  even  ermined  dignity  itself  with  awe 
and  veneration.  Many  of  the  powers  belonging  to  a 
court  of  equity,  are  exercised  by  the  court  of  King's 
Bench  under  the  old  French  law.  Jt  grants  injunctions 
by  a  process  termed  a  sequestre.  It  takes  care  of  the 
property  of  minors,  and  appoints  curators  of  the  persons 
and  property  of  lunatics.  The  law  of  entail  by  a  limi- 
tation, called  a  "  substitution  fidei  commissaire,"  is  well 
known  in  Lower  Canada,  but  seldom  acted  upon. 

The  attention  of  the  legislature  has  of  late  been  call- 
ed to  the  state  of  the  law  of  dower  and  mortgage,  both 
of  which  are  often  productive  of  great  confusion  and 
actual  injustice.  Supposing  there  has  been  no  renun- 
ciation of  her  dower  by  the  marriage  contract,  the  wife 
upon  her  marriage  is  entitled  to  a  dower  of  one-half  of 
the  estate  of  inheritance  then  in  the  possession  of  her 


IN  AMERICA.  1  69 

husband  ;  and  this  dower  is  of  itself  an  estate  of  inherit- 
ance which  descends  to  her  children,  supposing  they 
take  nothing  by  the  "  communaute,"  an  arrangement  by 
which  the  wife  is  entitled  to  one-half  of  all  property  real 
and  personal,  acquired  subsequently  to  the  marriage.  A 
communaute  may  exist  with  a  settlement  or  without  one, 
as  in  the  case  I  have  proposed.  At  the  death  of  the  wife 
in  the  lifetime  of  the  husband,  or  vice  versa,  the  law  per- 
mits the  children  to  elect — between  one  half  of  the  pro- 
perty in  communaute  to  be  enjoyed  immediately,  and  the 
real  estate  which  would  have  formed  the  dower  of  the 
wife  had  she  survived  her  husband,  which  is  not  to  be  di- 
vided amongst  them  till  after  the  death  of  the  surviving 
parent.  It  sometimes  happens  that  the  husband  and 
wife  have  joined  in  the  sale  of  the  estate,  perhaps  for  the 
present  benefit  of  the  children,  and  with  their  knowledge. 
This  sale,  however,  cannot  deprive  the  children  of  their 
estate  of  inheritance  in  the  dower  after  the  decease  of  the 
wife  ;  and  although  it  is  justly  reckoned  disgraceful  for 
the  children  to  claim  the  estate  from  a  purchaser  under 
such  circumstances,  yet  it  is  sometimes  done  in  cases 
where  there  was  nothing  left  to  be  divided  in  commu- 
naute. A  gentleman  informed  me  that  such  an  instance 
had  occurred  to  himself.  He  had  purchased  an  estate, 
and  had  been  in  possession  about  twenty  years.  It  had 
been  sold  by  the  husband  and  wife  upwards  of  forty  years ; 
but  they  were  both  still  living,  and  he  was  much  surpris- 
ed one  day  at  being  informed  by  the  children,  that,  at  the 
decease  of  their  mother,  they  intended  to  come  upon  him 
for  the  amount  of  the  dower,  as  there  was  no  prospect  of 
receiving  any  thing  by  the  communaute. 

Till  lately,  under  the  then  existing  law  of  mortgage, 
a  purchaser  could  seldom  be  sure  of  buying  an  unincum- 
bered  estate  ;  a  previous  possessor  in  want  of  money 
might  have  been  before  a  notary,  and  have  borrowed  of 
a  dozen  different  persons,  on  what  is  called  a  tacit 
mortgage.  No  title  deeds  were  required  by  the  lender, 
but  all  the  property  of  the  borrower  is  liable  for  the 
amount  borrowed ;  and  claims  of  this  kind  were  con- 
stantly made  upon  estates  even  after  the  possessor,  who 
had  taken  all  pains  to  clear  them  off,  had  reason  to  think 
himself  secure  in  the  enjoyment  of  them.  But  by  a  bill 
that  passed  the  legislature  in  1828,  newly  purchased 
property  is  cleared  against  creditors  who  do  not  put  in 


170  SIX    MONTHS 

their  claims  within  four  months,  the  rights  of  widows 
and  minors  forming  an  exception. 

No  writ  can  issue  to  secure  the  person  of  a  debtor  in 
the  common  gaol  until  all  his  property  real  and  personal 
has  been  sold,  the  real  property  having  been  advertised 
in  the  Gazette  for  four  months.  At  the  expiration  of  that 
period,  attempts  are  sometimes  made  by  a  fraudulent 
debtor  or  his  friends,  to  evade  imprisonment  by  a  pur- 
chase  in  the  debtor's  name  of  real  property  to  a  trifling 
amount,  which  must  be  again  advertised,  and  so  on ;  al- 
though of  course  wherever  the  attempt  to  defraud  can  be 
made  apparent,  the  courts  of  justice  will  interfere.  In 
cases  of  a  commercial  nature,  where  a  judgment  has  been 
obtained,  the  debtor  has  the  right  of  being  enlarged,  upon 
giving  security  that  he  will  not  leave  the  limits  of  the 
city. 

In  general,  the  Canadian  farmers,  when  old  and  unable 
to  work,  make  over  their  property  by  a  notarial  writing 
to  one  of  their  sons,  on  condition  of  his  paying  a  certain 
sum  of  money  to  bis  other  children ;  a  custom  which 
has  the  effect  of  preventing  too  great  a  division  of  real 
property.  In'the  deed,  which  is  rather  curious,  it  is  sti- 
pulated that  the  old  man  is  to  be  supported  by  his  son ; 
that  he  is  to  receive  from  him  a  certain  quantity  of  tea, 
sugar,  and  tobacco :  he  is  to  be  furnished  if  necessary 
with  a  horse  to  ride  to  chapel  on  Sundays  and  festivals  ; 
and  when  dead  a  certain  number  of  masses  are  to  be  said 
for  his  soul. 

The  governor  of  Lower  Canada  is  assisted  by  an  exe- 
cutive council,  composed  of  any  persons  whom  he  chooses 
to  recommend  to  his  majesty  for  appointment ;  the 
legislative  council,  of  which  the  members  are  also  appoint- 
ed by  the  king  for  life  ;  and  the  Lower  House,  or  House 
of  Assembly,  consisting  at  present  of  eighty-four  mem- 
bers. The  Chief  Justice  is  the  Speaker ;  and  the  puisne 
Judges  of  Quebec  are  members  of  the  Legislative  Coun- 
cil ;  but  it  is  in  contemplation  to  procure  an  act  of  par- 
liament to  remedy  this  unconstitutional  arrangement.  In- 
dependently of  the  objection  that  could  be  urged  against 
it  as  an  abuse,  the  judges  find  ample  employment  for 
their  time  in  their  other  avocations.  They  were  placed 
there  as  a  matter  of  course  when  the  colony  was  in  its  in- 
fancy ;  but  the  reasons  have  ceased  as  the  colony  has  in- 
creased in  wealth  and  population.  The  Legislative  Coun- 
cil is  composed  of  the  principal  officers  of  the  province, 


IN    AMERICA.  171 

and  other  persons  of  consideration.  Their  number  is 
unlimited,  but  is  usually  about  thirty.  The  members  of 
the  House  of  Assembly  are  elected  in  the  same  manner 
as  the  members  of  the  House  of  Commons  in  England. 
Quebec  and  Montreal  return  four  members  each.  There 
are  but  two  boroughs  ;  William  Henry  or  Sorel  return- 
ing one  member,  and  the  "  Three  Rivers"  returning  two 
members.  The  other  members  are  returned  by  counties, 
but  no  qualification  whatever  is  required  of  any.  This  is 
an  advantage  in  a  young  country,  where  society  is  com- 
paratively small,  and  wealth  is  so  often  separated  from  ta- 
lent. The  qualification  necessary  for  a  voter  is  real  pro- 
perty to  the  annual  value  of  forty  shillings.  In  the  towns 
the  payment  of  ten  pounds  a-year  rent  is  sufficient,  and 
single  women  are  allowed  to  vote.  The  sittings  of  the  Le- 
gislative Council,  and  the  House  of  Assembly,  do  not 
usually  occupy  more  than  ten  weeks  in  the  year,  commenc- 
ing about  the  middle  of  January. 

By  far  the  larger  proportion  of  the  House  of  Assembly 
are  of  the  radical  -persuasion.  Like  the  rest  of  the  old 
French  Canadians,  they  have  a  strong  negative  attach- 
ment to  the  British  government :  because  they  are  satis- 
fied with  the  protection  they  enjoy,  and  are  aware  that 
they  could  not  exist  without  it ;  but  their  proceedings 
evince  little  actual  gratitude  or  affection  for  the  mother 
country ;  their  grievances,  whether  they  are  those  that 
really  do  exist,  or  those  that  are  to  be  traced  in  the  ima- 
ginary discontents  of  a  few  leading  demagogues,  being 
frequently  discussed  with  more  than  constitutional  jea- 
lousy, and  with  more  petulant  vehemence  than  is  merited 
by  the  redressing  and  conciliatory  spirit  of  the  British 
government.  And  yet  when  we  consider  the  events  that 
are  passing  in  Europe,  it  is  not  singular  that  such  should 
be  the  conduct  of  a  people,  of  whom  it  is  said,  that  when 
a  constitution  was  first  talked  of,  they  would  have  pre- 
ferred that  their  country  should  have  continued  under 
the  direction  of  a  governor  and  council,  or  rather  under 
that  of  a  governor  alone. 

During  the  last  session  a  bill  passed  the  house  of  as- 
sembly, for  an  allowance  to  the  members  of  10s.  a-day, 
beside  their  travelling  expenses,  but  was  rejected  by  the 
legislative  council.  Nevertheless  when  the  Supply  Bill 
came  under  consideration,  the  house  of  assembly  tacked 
on  the  desired  amount  for  the  payment  of  their  members, 
and  the  bill  in  that  state  was  most  inconsistently  con- 
sented to  by  the  legislative  council. 


172 


SIX  MONTHS 


Another  instance  of  unconstitutional  irregularity  may 
be  mentioned.  The  31st  of  Geo.  iii.,  c.  31,  declares  who 
shall  be  qualified  to  sit  as  members  of  the  assembly,  but 
it  creates  no  disqualification  to  sit  and  vote  in  persons 
accepting  offices  of  trust  and  profit,  after  their  election. 
By  this  act  also,  no  bill  reserved  by  the  governor  for  the 
royal  signature  shall  have  any  force  or  authority  within 
either  province,  unless  his  majesty's  assent  thereto  shall 
be  signified  within  the  space  of  two  years  from  the  day 
on  which  the  bill  shall  have  been  presented  for  his  ma- 
jesty's assent  by  the  governor.  In  the  year  1830,  after 
various  proceedings  in  the  same  matter,  a  bill  for  the  dis- 
qualification of  persons  accepting  government  offices,  un- 
til re-elected,  from  sitting  in  the  legislative  assembly,  was 
passed  by  both  houses,  and  the  governor  thought  it  of  suf- 
ficient importance  to  reserve  it  for  the  royal  assent.  Two 
years,  as  we  have  seen,  is  allowed  for  the  signification  of 
his  majesty's  pleasure,  and  if  no  answer  is  given  in  that 
time,  the  bill  passes  into  a  law  forthwith.  The  bill  was 
sent  to  England,  and  long  before  the  time  had  expired, 
the  impatient  house  of  assembly  entered  a  resolution  on 
their  journals,  that  any  member  accepting  an  office  under 
government  shall  be  considered  as  vacating  his  seat  ipso 
facto,  with  the  capability  of  being  re-elected.1  As  to  the 
justice  of  the  case,  there  can  be  no  doubt ;  but  when  they 
themselves  had  commenced  the  application  in  a  constitu- 
tional manner,  their  subsequent  attempt  to  fly  in  the  face 
of  the  prerogative  does  not  reflect  much  credit  on  their 
loyalty. 

The  net  revenue  of  Lower  Canada  for  the  year  1830, 
was  128,345Z.  3s.  ±d^  being  an  increase  of  5200/.  over  the 
preceding  year.  The  bulk  of  this  sum  is  at  the  disposal 
of  the  provincial  legislature ;  and  is  expended  in  the 
country  on  internal  improvements  of  every  kind.  The 
proposed  civil  list  for  the  year  1831,  amounted  to  19,500Z.; 
but  14,000/,  of  this  is  all  that  is  asked  of  the  province 
by  the  royal  message,  besides  a  reservation,  by  virtue  of 
the  prerogative,  of  what  are  termed  the  casual  and  terri- 
torial revenues  of  the  crown,  such  as  the  rents  of  the  Je- 
suits' estates,  rents  of  the  king's  posts,  &c.  &c.,  which, 
to  use  the  words  of  the  governor's  message,  of  the  23d  of 
February,  1831,  can  operate  in  no  degree  as  a  tax  upon 
the  people,  or  tend  either  in  their  nature,  or  in  the  mode 
of  their  collection,  to  impede  or  impair  the  prosperity  of 
the  province.  But  nevertheless  the  committee  of  the 


IN    AMERICA.  173 

house  of  assembly  have  resolved  never  to  compromise 
what  they  call  the  natural  and  constitutional  right  of 
watching  over  and  controlling  the  receipt  and  expendi- 
ture of  the  whole  revenue.  Will  they  object  when  the 
remuneration  of  their  clergy  is  thrown  upon  them,  as  is 
contemplated  by  the  British  government  ? 

It  would  be  tedious,  and  for  beyond  the  limits  of  this 
work,  to  enter  into  a  detail  of  all  the  grievances  com- 
plained of  by  the  house  of  assembly  ;  many  of  them  have 
been,  or  are  in  the  way  of  being,  remedied,  and  they  may 
be  found  in  the  report  of  the  committee  of  the  house  of 
commons  on  the  affairs  of  the  Canadas,  in  1827.  They 
complain  in  their  petition  to  parliament  that  the  affairs 
of  the  province  were  growing  worse  under  the  existing 
government ;  that  the  value  of  land  was  diminished ; 
that  there  was  a  waste  of  the  public  revenue;  that  the 
enactment  of  beneficial  laws  was  rejected  by  one  branch 
of  the  legislature  composed  of  persons  dependent  on  the 
government ;  that  the  creditor  of  the  government  had  not 
sufficient  remedy ;  that  sufficient  security  was  not  re- 
quired of  persons  having  the  disposal  of  the  public  mo- 
neys ;  that  the  independence  of  the  judges  was  not  suffi- 
ciently consulted ;  and  they  asked  for  the  appointment  of 
a  resident  agent  for  the  colonies,  in  England,  &c.  &c. 

One  of  the  schemes  at  present  in  agitation  in  the  house 
of  assembly  is,  the  entire  dissolution  of  the  legislative 
council ;  a  measure  which  that  more  loyal  body  do  not 
exactly  relish,  and  on  the  31st  of  March,  1831,  they  pass- 
ed a  number  of  resolutions  expressive  of  their  loyalty, 
-*"1  "espectfully  setting  forth  their  grievances  at  the 
time.  In  the  report  of  a  special  committee  of  the 


and   res 
same  ti 


appear  to  require  an  arrangement  of  a  more  permanent 


demanded  for  casual  expenses,  and  divers  services,  and 
of  the  manner  in  which  the  rents  of  the  Jesuits'  estates, 
and  the  other  casual  and  territorial  revenues,  are  applied, 
was  still  refused  by  the  British  government;  they  had 


174  SIX   MONTHS 

therefore  deemed  it  inexpedient  to  make  "  aucune  alloca- 
tion permanente  ulterieure  pour  les  depenses  du  gou- 
vernement ;" — the  legislative  council,  in  their  resolu- 
tions noticed  above,  having  expressed  a  cordial  disposi- 
tion to  concur  with  his  majesty's  government  in  mak- 
ing such  an  arrangement. 

The  Jesuits'  estates,  the  convent,  and  the  seminary, 
hold  the  city  of  Quebec  in  seignory.  The  convent  of 
the  Jesuits  is  now  converted  into  a  barrack,  and  forms 
one  side  of  the  market-place  in  the  upper  town.  By  the 
way,  I  should  recommend  any  traveller  to  visit  the  mar- 
ket-place in  the  lower  town,  where  he  will  see  some  of 
the  old  French  Canadians,  with  their  long  pig-tails  tied 
up  with  eel-skins.  The  order  of  the  Jesuits  was  sup- 
pressed at  the  conquest  of  the  colony  by  the  British. 
Government  took  possession  of  the  estates  belonging  to 
them,  and  has  since  enjoyed  the  whole  revenue,  amount- 
ing to  about  2500/.  per  annum  ;  and  though  frequently 
applied  to  by  the  provincial  legislature,  has  thought 
fit  to  conceal  the  manner  in  which  it  has  been  employ- 
ed. Amongst  other  expenses,  those  incurred  in  build- 
ing the  episcopal  church,  were,  it  is  said,  defrayed  from 
this  source. 

Before  I  quitted  Quebec,!  was  present  at  a  ball,  given 
by  a  lady  and  gentleman  who  had  been  united  for  the 
first  time  that  day  fifty  years,  and  were  again  married 
on  that  morning  by  a  Catholic  priest. 

I  returned  from  Quebec  to  Montreal  by  the  John  Bull 
steam-boat,  probably  the  largest  river  boat  in  the  world. 
Montreal  is  considerably  larger  than  Quebec,  and -con- 
tains fifty  thousand  inhabitants.  Its  front  towards 
the  river  will  be  much  improved  by  a  fine  quay  which 
is  now  building.  The  principal  objects  are  the  convents 
and  the  new  Catholic  cathedral,  a  very  large  and  hand- 
some specimen  of  the  simple  gothic ;  but  its  internal  de- 
corations do  not  correspond  with  its  majestic  exterior. 
The  view  from  the  mountain  of  Montreal,  nearly  700 
feet  high,  is  of  the  same  kind,  but  I  think  inferior  to  the 
view  from  the  ramparts  of  Quebec.  The  city  is  nearly 
two  miles  distant,  and  is  seen  to  great  advantage  lying 
along  the  bank  of  the  magnificent  St.  Lawrence,  whose 
broadly  expanded  waters  can  bo  followed  by  the  eye  for 
many  a  league,  both  above  and  below  the  city.  On  the 
opposite  side,  the  country  is  one  vast  flat  plain,  from 
which  the  isolated  mountain  of  Chambli,  and  another 


IN    AMERICA.  175 

peak  at  a  few  miles  distance,  abruptly  arise ;  and  by  re- 
lieving the  monotony  of  the  view,  have  the  merit  of 
giving  it  a  decided  tone  and  character,  to  which  it 
would  not  otherwise  be  entitled.  The  horizon  is  form- 
ed by  the  bold  outline  of  the  distant  mountains  of  Ver- 
mont, and  those  of  the  eastern  part  of  the  stale  of  New 
York. 

I  left  Montreal  to  make  an  excursion  up  the  Otlowa. 
The  beauty  of  this  river,  the  situation  of  Bytown,  and 
the  Rideau  canal,  were  themes  of  admiration  with  every 
one  who  had  seen  them.  I  went  on  board  a  steam-boat 
at  the  village  of  La  Chine,  and  in  a  few  hours  we  were 
in  sight  of  St.  Ann's,  and  alongside  the  rapids,  which 
we  passed  by  means  of  a  short  canal.  About  this  spot 
the  clear  but  dark  coloured  **  Ottovva  tide"  is  chequer- 
ed by  many  a  green  isle,  if  they  can  be  so  called,  when 
clothed,  as  I  saw  them,  in  the  diversified  and  brilliant 
colours  that  characterise  the  foliage  of  the  American 
forest  during  the  autumn.  .Every  variety  of  green  can 
be  discerned — from  the  darkness  of  the  fir,  to  the  silvery 
leaf  of  the  poplar  or  the  willow — while  the  unaccustom- 
ed eye  is  delighted  by  the  bright  yellow  of  the  fading 
hickory,  and  the  admirable  finish  which  is  given  to  the 
picture,  by  the  broad  patches  of  deep  and  actual  crimson 
of  the  sumach  and  the  soft  maple.  I  must  again  repeat, 
that  I  have  seen  nothing  of  the  kind  that  can  equal  the 
surpassing  beauty  of  an  American  forest  in  w  the  fall." 
It  may  with  justice  be  compared  to  the  brilliancy  of  a 
bed  of  tulips.  We  entered  the  lake  of  the  Two  Moun- 
tains, so  called  from  two  lofty  hills  on  the  right.  On 
the  top  of  one  of  them,  Mount  Calvary,  is  a  chapel  built 
by  the  Jesuits,  and  connected  with  the  Indian  village  on 
the  margin  of  the  lake  by  a  line  of  chapels,  placed  at  in- 
tervals in  the  pathway.  Its  sudden  appearance  in  the 
bosom  of  the  forest,  is  extremely  effective  and  pictur- 
esque. Immediately  behind  the  Indian  village  is  a 
large  bank  of  white  sand,  which  in  the  distance  may  be 
easily  taken  for  a  well-cleared  stubble  field.  At  Caril- 
lon we  were  obliged  to  leave  the  steamboat,  and  pro- 
ceed by  land  to  the  town  of  Grenville,  along  the  side  of 
the  canal,  cut  for  the  purpose  of  avoiding  the  rapids  of 
the  "  Long  Saut,"  which,  when  the  river  is  swollen, 
are  said  to  be  exceedingly  violent,  even  more  so  than 
those  of  the  St.  Lawrence.  I  found  the  banks  on  both 
sides  of  the  river  were  cleared  and  cultivated  to  a  de- 


176  SIX  MONTHS 

grce  that  far  exceeded  my  expectations,  whilst  the  un- 
finished canal  gives  employment  to.  several  hundred 
poor  emigrants,  who  were  living  chiefly  in  log-houses 
along  the  road-side,  ranged  amongst  many  other  dwell- 
ings of  a  better  description. 

The  Ottowa,  although  perceptibly  inferior  to  the  St. 
Lawrence  in  width  and  volume, is  still  one  of  the  largest 
secdnd-rate  rivers  in  North  America.  Below  Carillon, 
which  is  thirty-five  miles  from  St.  Ann's,  I  observed 
nothing  excepting  the  foliage  I  have  mentioned,  that 
an  acquaintance  with  American  scenery  had  not  ren- 
dered familiar  ;  but  on  approaching  Grenville,  a  lofty 
range  of  hills,  containing  rich  mines  of  plumbago,  range's 
very  majestically  on  the  north  bank  of  the  river,  which 
in  many  places  is  widened  to  a  surface  equalling  that  of 
a  small  lake,  with  its  shores  broken  by  majestic  head- 
lands. Soon  afterwards,  cultivation  comparatively 
ceases,  and  the  river  bears  a  resemblance  to  the  wilder 
part  of  the  Ohio  above  Louisville,  excepting  that  the 
forest  trees  on  its  banks  and  islands,  are  not  so  lofty  as 
those  of  the  latter  river. 

Bytown  is  65  miles  from  Grenville  and  120  from 
Montreal.  It  is  divided  into  an  upper  and  lower  town; 
containing  many  excellent  houses.  Thirty  years  ago, 
there  was  scarcely  an  habitation  in  the  vicinity,  except- 
ing that  of  Philemon  Wright,  Esq.,  a  Bostonian,  and 
one  of  the  best  farmers  in  Canada,  vfho  with  singular 
enterprise  and  sagacity,  foresaw  that  at  no  very  distant 
period  it  must  become  a  place  of  importance,  and  as  the 
Americans  would  say,  "  located  himself"  in  the  un- 
touched forests  of  the  Ottowa.  A  new  world  has 
sprung  up  around  him,  and  he  now  predicts,  with  great 
appearance  of  truth,  that  By  town  will  become  the  capi- 
tal of  the.  country  :  a  glance  at  the  map  will  show  the 
justice  of  his  reasoning.  The  Ottowa  or  Grand  river, 
runs  through  the  country  for  about  500  miles  above 
Bytown.  In  its  course  it  is  joined  by  several  consider- 
able streams,  by  means  of  which  a  water  communica- 
tion can  be  extended  to  Hudson's  bay  on  the  north  ; 
and  on  the  south  it  is  connected  with  Lake  Huron, 
which  is  not  more  than  100  miles  distant,  through  the 
medium  of  Lake  Nipisany ;  and  as  the  Saut  de  St.  Ma- 
rie, at  the  foot  of  Lake  Superior,  is  said  to  be  800  miles 
nearer  Montreal  than  to  New  York,  it  is  highly  proba- 
ble that  a  considerable  proportion  of  the  product  of  the 


IN   AMERICA.  177 

country  around  the  great  lakes,  even  from  the  further 
part  of  Lake  Michigan,  will  find  its  way  to  the  Ottowa. 
The  pretty,  unpretending  fall  of  the  Rideau,  so  called 
by  the  French  from  its  resemblance  to  a  white  curtain, 
is  seen  on  the  left  immediately  before  the  boat  rounds 
the  headland  that  conceals  the  locks  of  the  celebrated 
Rideau  canal,  which  are  suddenly  presented  to  the  view, 
lying  in  a  slope,  between  two  lofty  and  precipitous  banks, 
nearly  perpendicular  towards  the  river.  That  on  the 
right  is  160  feet  in  height,  composed  of  limestone..  On 
the  area  of  the  top,  which  may  be  from  500  to  600  yards 
in  circumference,  are  the  barracks  and  the  hospital.  It 
will  probably  be  the  site  of  an  impregnable  fortress, 
which  might  be  built  for  60,000/. ;  an  expense  which 
should  not  be  spared,  when  it  is  considered  that  the 
splendid  works  on  the  canal,  at  present  unfortified,  might 
be  destroyed  in  half-an-hour.  The  locks  themselves, 
eight  in  number,  are  magnificent  in  every  respect,  and 
reflect  the  highest  credit  on  the  engineer,  Colonel  By. 
In  length  they  occupy  a  space  of  1260  feet,  and  from  the 
surface  of  the  river  to  the  top  of  the  bank  there  is  a  per- 
pendicular rise  of  84  feet.  Each  lock  is  134  feet  long, 
33  wide,  and  17  in  depth.  The  canal,  for  several  miles 
above  Bytown,  is  supplied  by  the  Rideau  river,  and  be- 
fore it  reaches  Kingston  on  Lake  Ontario,  a  distance  of 
140  miles,  a  head  of  water  is  obtained  by  means  of  thir- 
teen dams  of  different  dimensions,  the  largest  being  300 
feet  wide  and  65  deep.  The  navigation  is  continued  by 
means  of  these  dams,  as  there  is  not  above  seven  or  eight 
miles  of  excavation  throughout  the  whole  distance. 

On  the  supposition  that  military  stores  are  to  be  sent 
from  Montreal  to  supply  the  troops  in  Upper  Canada,  or 
a  fleet  on  Lake  Ontario,  it  is  intended  that  they  should 
pass  through  the  channel  behind  the  island  of  Montreal, 
which  is  not  yet  rendered  navigable ;  that  they  should 
proceed  up  the  Ottowa,  ascending  the  rapids  by  means 
of  the  Grenville  canal,  and  upon  arriving  at  Bytown,  be 
forwarded  to  Kingston  along  the  Rideau,  which  thus  af- 
fords a  method  of  communication  infinitely  shorter  than 
any  land  conveyance, — an  additional  advantage  arising 
from  its  great  distance  from  the  American  frontier,  and 
proportionate  security  from  hostile  incursion.  Although 
the  Rideau  canal  is  principally  a  military  work,  it  will 
be  of  the  greatest  importance  in  a  commercial  point  of 
view,  on  account  of  its  affording  a  direct  means  of  con- 


178  SIX    MONTHS 

veyance  by  its  communication  with  a  number  of  smaller 
streams  that  intersect  it  at  intervals,  and  which  will  en- 
able the  settlers  who  live  many  miles  from  the  banks  to 
forward  the  produce  of  their  farms,  with  certainty  and 
celerity.  The  difficulty  and  expense  of  conveyance  was 
originally  a  great  drawback  upon  the  use  of  British 
manufactures  hi  the  Upper  Province  ;  they  paid  a  freight 
from  Quebec  of  51.  a  ton ;  but  by  means  of  the  Rideau 
canal,  the  freight  has  been  reduced  one-half.  Land,  ac- 
cording to  its  situation  on  different  parts  of  the  canal, 
was  selling  from  two  to  five  dollars  the  acre;  crown 
lands  at  a  fixed  price  of  1Z.  the  acre.  On  application  to 
any  of  the  crown  land  agents,  a  ticket  may  be  obtained, 
containing  a  permission  to  cut  timber  on  a  certain  space 
of  ground,  on  payment  of  a  duty  to  government  of  one 
penny  the  foot. 

On  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  stands  the  village  of 
Hull.  A  winding  road  about  a  mile  in  length  conducted 
me  to  the  bridges  thrown  over  the  fall  of  the  Ottowa, 
which  according  to  the  usual  appellation  bestowed  by  the 
French  upon  any  fall  of  magnitude  in  the  Canadas,  is 
termed  the  "  Chaudiere,"  or  "  boiler."  The  bed  of  the 
river  is  divided  into  five  channels  formed  in  the  solid 
rock,  with  more  or  less  of  a  fall  in  each  of  them.  The 
largest  may  be  about  thirty  feet  in  height,  and  from  its 
greater  violence  has  worn  away  the  precipice  for  a  con- 
siderable  distance  behind  the  others,  which  project  and 
recede  in  a  most  singular  manner,  whilst  the  river,  not 
contented  with  so  many  ways  of  escape,  rolls  over  the 
bare  ledge  of  the  rock  that  is  extended  between  them,  so 
that  its  eager  waters  are  tumbling  in  all  directions.  The 
whole  width  of  the  stream  immediately  at  the  head  ox 
the  fall,  is  more  than  half  a  mile.  It  was  not  particularly 
full  when  I  saw  it,  but  was  darting  through  the  bridges 
with  extreme  violence.  In  the  spring,  when  the  river  is 
swollen  by  the  melted  ice  and  snow,  the  whole  of  the 
rocks  are  so  deeply  covered  by  the  flood,  that  there  is 
little  or  no  fall  to  be  seen  even  at  the  Chaudiere,  as  the 
principal  fall  is  called ;  and  I  could  easily  conceive  that 
the  rush  of  water  at  that  season  of  the  year  must  be 
tremendous.  The  whole  scene  was  exceedingly  curious; 
and  although  rather  disappointed  at  first  sight,  I  felt 
myself  amply  repaid  for  my  excursion  to  Bytown.  When 
it  was  first  understood  that  a  bridge  was  to  be  thrown 
across  from  rock  to  rock,  an  old  American  who  had 


IN   AMERICA.  J79 

known  the  river  in  its  fury,*  and  firmly  believed  that 
such  a  scheme  was  impracticable,  was  heard  to  predict 
with  great  emphasis,  and  corresponding  action,  that  some 
day  or  other  "  it  would  go  right  slit  to  immortal  smash." 
Many  of  the  poor  Scotch  emigrants  answered  to  my  in- 
quiry  as  to  their  destination,  that  they  were  "  ganging 
to  Perth ;"  a  thriving  town,  about  fifty  miles  above  By- 
town,  and  situated  between  the  Ottowa  and  the  Rideau 
canal.  Thirty  miles  on  the  river  above  Bytown,  is  the 
settlement  on  the  Lake  "  des  Chats." 

On  the  evening  of  the  fatal  field  of  Culloden,  the  un- 
fortunate Prince  Charles  Edward  presented  himself, 
wearied  and  alone,  at  the  door  of  a  hut,  and  requested 
sustenance  aud  momentary  concealment ;  the  inmate,  a 
poor  tailor,  who  recognised  his  person,  mounted  guard 
at  the  door  whilst  his  illustrious  guest  was  sleeping  with- 
in,  on  a  pallet  of  heather.  He  was  soon  aroused  by  the 
tailor,  who  awakened  him  by  exclaiming  in  Gaelic, 
*'  My  prince,  core  of  my  heart !  save  yourself,  for  the 
enemy  are  upon  you."  A  party  of  cavalry  were  gallop- 
ing towards  the  hut,  and  the  prince  had  just  time  to 
escape  through  a  small  back  window,  and  reach  the 
Morven  mountains.  For  his  greater  comfort  in  repose 
he  had  deposited  his  sword  upon  a  bench  in  a  corner  of 
the  hut;  and  in  the  precipitancy  of  his  flight  he  had  for- 
gotten to  take  it  with  him.  The  tailor  had  just  time  to 
conceal  it,  by  removing  the  earth  and  burying  it  under 
the  heather.  The  cavalry  demanded  the  prince,  saying 
that  they  had  information  that  he  had  taken  refuge  in 
the  hut,  and  carried  off  the  tailor  as  their  prisoner,  who 
was  afterwards  confined  in  Edinburgh  castle.  In  the 
mean  time  the  sword  still  remained  where  he  had  buried 
it,  but  the  hut  became  a  heap  of  ruins.  Whilst  the 
"  Clan  and  disarming  act"  (afterwards  repealed  by  the 
exertions  of  the  Duke  of  Montrose)  was  in  force,  he  dare 
say  nothing  about  the  sword,  but  upon  his  death-bed  in 
Breadalbane,  the  poor  tailor  informed  his  cousin,  Finlay 
M'Nauton,  where  the  sword  was  to  be  found.  He 
searched  and  found  itT  in  the  spot  where  it  had  lain  from 
1745  to  1784.  The  belt  and  scabbard  were  rotted  with 
moisture,  and  the  blade  of  course  nearly  covered  with 
rust.  It  is  the  real  old  Highland  basket-hilted  claymore. 
On  the  rust  being  removed,  the  burning  heart  of  the 
Bruce  surmounted  by  the  crown  of  Scotland  became 
visible  on  the  blade.  Between  them  is  engraved  "  Le 


180  SIX    MONTHS 

Chevalier."  On  the  reverse  are  the  words,  "  Vive  le 
Roi,"  extending  the  whole  length  of  the  blade.  Finlay 
M'Nauton  joined  the  veteran  battalion,  and  died  at 
Gibraltar,  the  sword  being  still  in  his  possession.  Upon 
his  death,  it  passed  with  the  rest  of  his  effects  into  the 
hands  of  John  M'Nauton,  his  brother,  who  is  still  alive 
at  a  very  advanced  age'in  Glengary,  the  oldest  settlement 
in  Upper  Canada.  Who  would  expect  to  hear  that  .this 
sword,  positively  the  most  classical  object  in  America,  is 
now,  as  it  were,  lying  in  state  on  the  banks  of  the  Lake 
**  des  Chats,"  in  the  wild  forests  of  the  Ottowa,  not  less 
than  150  miles  from  Montreal?  M'Nab  of  M'Nab,  the 
nephew  and  representative  of  the  late  laird,  founded  the 
settlement  with  the  advice  and  under  the  auspices  of  his 
kinsman,  the  Earl  of  Dalhousie,  the  late  governor  of 
Lower  Canada.  He  has  collected  around  him  about 
two  hundred  of  his  clan,  whose  forefathers  followed  his 
ancestors  in  the  hour  of  battle,  and  have  now  gone  with 
him  in  the  day  of  their  distress  to  clear  and  cultivate  the 
wilderness  of  the  Ottowa  under  his  superintendence.  He 
has  possession  of  the  sword,  and  never  shows  it  to  a 
stranger  but  in  the  presence  of  his  piper,  who  is  ordered 
to  play  the  whole  time.  It  was  given  to  him  by  John 
M'Nauton,  who  added  in  Gaelic,  that  "  some  damned 
long-legged  fellow  of  a  Sassenach  had  asked  him  for  the 
sword  and  offered  him  money  for  it,  but  that  he  would 
never  disgrace  the  clan  of  M'Nauton  by  giving  over 
that  sword  to  an  Englishman." 

The  boundary  line  between  Upper  and  Lower  Canada 
leaves  the  St.  Lawrence  about  28  miles  below  Cornwall, 
and  after  running  in  nearly  a  straight  direction,  comes 
in  contact  with  the  Ottowa  river  at  Point  Fortune,  op- 
posite to  Carillon.  It  pursues  the  course  of  the  river  for 
many  a  league  beyond  the  habitations  of  civilized  society ; 
and  then  strikes  off  to  Hudson's  bay.  During  the  last 
session,  an  act  was  passed  in  the  provincial  parliament 
for  the  appointment  of  commissioners  to  ascertain  its 
exact  direction,  in  order  to  satisfy  the  borderers,  who 
complained  of  being  subjected  to  the  laws  of  either  pro- 
vince alternately.  The  idea  of  an  union  of  the  two  Ca- 
nadas  has  apparently  been  dropped  for  the  present.  Per- 
haps the  majority  of  the  British  inhabitants  in  both 
provinces  would  be  in  favour  of  such  a  project,  or  at  all 
events  would  not  offer  much  opposition  to  it ;  but  the 
French  population  in  Lower  Canada  would  display  a 


IN    AMERICA.  181 

most  violent  aversion  to  any  change  of  the  kind.  The" 
old  French  law  would  of  course  be  superseded  by  the 
laws  of  England  subject  to  provincial  alterations,  and  the 
French  Canadian  influence  in  the  government  would  de- 
cline  in  proportion  to  the  importance  of  the  British  in- 
terest in  the  house  of  assembly,  which  would  be  increased 
by  the  accession  of  delegates  from  the  Upper  Province. 
Upper  Canada  would  have  no  objection  to  a  port  of  entry, 
by  which  her  share  of  the  duties  on  imports  would  be 
exactly  regulated  by  the  quantity  she  consumed.  Every 
ship  trading  to  the  Canadas  must  of  course  discharge  her 
cargo  either  at  Quebec  or  Montreal.  By  the  arrange- 
ment, solicited  and  obtained  by  Upper  Canada  in  1822, 
no  duties  can  be  laid  on  goods  imported  or  passing  into 
Lower  Canada  without  the  consent  of  both  provinces,  or 
by  the  British  parliament;  and  the  just  proportion  of  the 
duties  due  to  each  province  settled  by  arbitration,  and  its 
share  paid  over  to  the  Upper  Province.  The  proportion 
it  now  receives  by  the  existing  regulation  is  25  per  cent. ; 
but  this  it  will  be  seen  must  be  increased,  when  it  is  con- 
sidered that  by  far  the  greater  number  of  the  settlers  re- 
sort to  the  Upper  Province,  that  the  French  Canadian 
peasantry  usually  prefer  the  coarse  cloth  of  their  own 
manufacture,  and  that  therefore  the  bulk  of  the  imports 
from  Great  Britain  must  find  their  way  to  the  northern 
shore  of  Lake  Ontario. 

It  is  probable  that  much  confusion  would  ensue  for  a 
length  of  time  after  an  union  should  take  place,  and  it  is 
equally  so,  that  the  Canadas  themselves  would  eventually 
be  gainers  by  the  measure;  but  the  more  serious  question 
is,  whether  it  is  not  better  for  the  mother  country  to  have 
two  parties  there,  instead  of  one ;  and  whether  it  would 
be  politic  in  Great  Britain  to  promote  an  arrangement 
that  would  render  the  colonies  far  more  independent 
than  would  be  consistent  with  their  allegiance  to  their 
mother  country.  As  it  is,  the  French  Canadian  interest 
is  really  on  the  decline,  and  the  British  population  is 
wonderfully  increasing.  Every  thing  considered,  the 
Canadas  are  improving  with  a  rapidity  not  surpassed  by 
any  country  upon  earth ;  and  I  humbly  conceive,  that  ex- 
perimental interference  should  be  deprecated,  because  it 
would  lead  to  a  certain  interruption  of  their  present 
career  of  prosperity,  for  the  sake  of  a  distant  and  not 
certain  advantage. 
16 


182  SIX    MONTHS 

I  returned  to  Montreal.  When  a  traveller  approaches 
Montreal  he  naturally  turns  his  eye  to  the  mountain  be- 
hind it,  and  feels  surprised  that  there  is  no  fortification 
by  which  a  city  of  so  much  importance,  and  so  near  the 
American  frontier  could  be  commanded, — strictly  speak- 
ing,  a  fort  should  be  built  on  the  top  of  the  mountain, 
and  at  La  Chine,  and  on  Nun's  island,  by  which,  together 
with  the  batteries  on  St.  Helen's  island  in  the  river,  im- 
mediately opposite  to  the  city,  the  passage  of  the  St. 
Lawrence  would  be  effectually  defended.  But,  when  it 
is  considered  that  the  top  of  the  hill,  or  mountain,  is  three 
miles  from  the  city ;  that  it  requires  eleven  pounds  of 
powder  to  throw  a  thirteen-inch  shell  to  the  distance  of 
one  mile ;  that  all  the  fortifications  in  the  world  would 
not  preserve  the  Canadas  to  us,  if  the  natives  were  against 
us ;  that  the  Americans  could  never  take  Montreal  so  long 
as  the  Canadians  would  fight  on  our  side ;  tliat  there  is  a 
prospect  of  a  lasting  peace  between  Great  Britain  and  the 
United  States;  and  finally,  the  probability  that  before  an- 
ther half  century  has  passed  away,  the  Canadas  will  cease, 
by  a  bloodless  negotiation,  to  be  a  British  colony — an 
enormous  expense  may  well  be  spared,  by  leaving  the 
city  in  its  present  state. 

The  picturesque  island  of  St.  Helen's  contains  a  small 
garrison,  and  a  large  quantity  of  military  stores.  On 
the  angle  of  the  saluting  battery  on  the  south-west  cor- 
ner of  the  island,  the  French  flag  waved  its  last  in  the 
Canadas. 

I  left  Montreal,  after  having  discovered  that  there  was 
a  pack  of  fox-hounds,  kept  close  by,  and  that  they  hunted 
regularly,  and  occasionally  on  by-days.  They  had  not 
been  long  organised,  but  promised  very  well.  I  was  also 
present  for  .one  day  during  the  races.  The  course  is  two 
miles  in  length,  and  in  excellent  condition,  being  railed 
off  the  whole  distance.  I  saw  one  race,  which  was  ad- 
mirably contested  ;  but  the  ground  was  not  well  attended, 
and  the  others  did  not  go  off  with  spirit.  I  was  told, 
however,  that  there  was  a  great  prospect  of  improvement, 
as  the  Canadians  were  beginning  to  be  fond  of  the  sport. 
The  excitement  would  have  been  much  greater  if  it  had 
lasted  but  two  days  instead  of  four ;  and  a  public  ball  af 
terwards  would  not  have  been  amiss. 

I  then  crossed  the  river  in  a  steam-boat  to  La  Prairie, 
distant  nine  miles  from  Montreal.  A  miserably  bad  road 
conducted  me  to  Blair  Findie,  and  subsequently  to  the 


IN    AMERICA.  183 

very  pretty  village  of  Chambli,  where  orchards  and  corn- 
fields were  to  be  seen  on  all  sides.  Both  these  places, 
particularly  the  former,  are  well  known  to  the  Canadian 
sportsmen  as  the  favourite  haunt  of  the  woodcock — per- 
haps the  best  in  America.  They  are  found  in  great  num- 
bers in  the  low  birch  woods  around  Blair  Findie,  where 
a  good  shot  will  sometimes  kill  above  twenty  couple  in 
a  morning,  and  I  heard  that  in  one  instance  as  many  as 
eighty  couple  were  killed  in  two  days  by  two  guns. 

The  beginning  of  October  is  the  best  season  for  shoot- 
ing all  kinds  of  game  in  the  Canadas.  , 

The  American  woodcock  is  considerably  smaller  than 
the  European  bird,  seldom  or  very  rarely  exceeding  eight 
ounces  in  weight,  and  its  plumage  is,  I  think,  handsomer. 
The  spots  of  brown  on  the  back  are  larger  and  deeper, 
and  the  breast,  instead  of  being  marked  with  dusky  bars, 
is  of  a  fine  almond  colour.  Their  flavour  is  similar. 
The  American  bird  when  flushed,  rises  very  rapidly, 
with  a  small  shrill  quickly  repeated  whistle,  and  seldom 
flies  beyond  a  distance  of  one  hundred  yards.  Sports- 
men who  do  not  mind  the  heat,  will  find  the  shooting 
exceedingly  good  in  the  month  of  July,  when  the  wood- 
cocks first  return  from  their  southern  haunts  for  the 
purpose  of  breeding.  In  the  northern  states  and  the 
Canadas,  they  may  be  shot  till  the  first  fortnight  in  No- 
vember has  elapsed,  after  which  they  retreat  to  a  warmer 
climate  for  the  winter.  No  pheasant,  partridge,  or  quail, 
is  strictly  speaking  found  in  North  America.  The  par- 
tridge, so  called  in  the  States,  is  the  quail  of  the  Cana- 
das: but  although  on  account  of  its  size  and  general 
appearance  it  might  easily  be  mistaken  for  the  latter 
bird,  it  is  in  fact  a  species  of  the  new  genus,  "  ortyx." 
The  difference  between  the  real  quail  and  the  ortyx  of 
America,  like  that  between  the  long  and  short-winged 
hawks,  consists  in  the  structure  of  the  wing  :  in  the  one, 
the  second  feather  is  longest ;  in  the  other,  the  fourth, 
which  evidently  unfits  it  for  taking  a  long  flight.  The 
"  ortyx  virginianus"  has  become  naturalized  in  Suffolk, 
and  has  been  shot  near  Uxbridge.  A  species  of  the  genus 
coturnix,  or  real  quail,  has  been  found  near  the  Straits  oi 
Magellan.  The  pheasant  of  the  States  is  the  partridge 
of  the  Canadas,  and  is  in  fact  a  very  handsome  species  of 
grouse,  feathered  down  to  the  toes,  and  having  in  a  great 
measure  the  habits  of  the  capercaily,  living  entirely  in 
the  woods,  and  treeing  readily  when  put  up  by  a  small 


184  SIX    MONTHS 

dog.  I  have  before  noticed  the  grouse,  or  barren,  or 
prairie  hen.  In  the  Canadas  there  is  also  a  darker  co- 
loured species  called,  the  spruce  partridge.  A  large 
grouse,  nearly  allied  to  the  capercaily  in  size  and  colour, 
is  found  near  the  Rocky  Mountains  ;  and  although  five 
or  six  different  kinds  of  grouse  are  to  be  found  hi  North 
America — including,  I  believe,  the  ptarmigan — yet  the 
black  and  red  game  of  Scotland  are  not  among  them.  A 
smaller  species  of  red  grouse  is  plentiful  in  Newfound- 
land. 

T£he  same  animal  is  called  a  hare  in  the  States,  and  a 
rabbit  in  the  Canadas.  It  never  burrows;  its  usual 
colour  is  that  of  the  European  hare  and  rabbit  mixed, 
and  the  meat  is  dark,  like  that  of  the  European  hare. 
A  larger  species,  which  turns  white  in  the  winter,  and  is 
termed  on  that  account,  the  varying  hare,  is  more  com- 
mon in  the  Canadas  than  in  the  States,  but  is  no  where 
plentiful.  I  would  here  remark  that  any  traveller  who 
brings  his  gun  with  him,  and  has  a  decided  wish  to  see 
some  American  shooting,  should  bring  his  own  dog  with 
him ;  any  that  he  can  depend  on  for  general  purposes, 
be  it  of  what  breed  it  may. 

America  offers  a  fine  field  to  the  ornithologist,  and 
even  a  traveller  who  is  usually  careless  of  the  study  of 
natural  history,  cannot  fail  to  be  delighted  with  the  va- 
riety of  beautiful  birds  which  he  will  see  in  merely  pass- 
ing through  the  American  forests,  more  particularly  in 
those  of  the  States,  Red  birds,  blue  birds,  and  yellow 
or  Baltimore  birds,  (a  species  of  starling)  will  frequently 
fly  across  his  path  ;  turtle  doves  are  constantly  alighting 
in  the  road  before  him  ;  a  large,  magnificent  species  of 
woodpecker,  with  a  red  crest,  usually  termed  the  wood- 
cock, will  sometimes  make  his  appearance;  a  great  va- 
riety of  the  same  genus,  particularly  a  small  species 
with  a  marked  plumage  of  black,  white,  and  crimson, 
are  almost  always  in  sight;  he  will  be  startled  and  de- 
ceived by  the  mew  of  the  catbird, — and  his  eye  and  ear 
will  be  attracted  by  the  brilliant  plumage  of  the  blue  jay, 
the  singing  of  the  mocking-bird,  the  melodious  flute-like 
whistle  of  the  wood-thrush,  or  the  instantaneous  buz  of 
the  passing  humming-bird.  Considering  the  wildness  of 
the  country,  I  was  very  much  surprised  at  the  scarcity 
of  the  larger  birds  of  prey ;  a  small  brown  vulture,  com- 
monly misnamed  the  turkey-buzzard,  is  however  an  ex- 
ception. I  never  saw  but  one  bald  eagle  in  America : 


IN  AMERICA.  185 

he  was  beating  for  his  prey  over  the  mountain  of  Mon- 
treal ;  his  snow -white  head  and  tail  being  discernible  at 
a  great  distance.  They  are  more  numerous  on  the  sea 
coast,  near  the  haunts  of  the  fish-hawk  (osprey).  When 
this  latter  bird  has  taken  a  fish,  the  bald  eagle,  who  has 
been  watching  his  movements  from  a  neighbouring 
height,  will  commence  a  most  furious  attack  upon  him, 
will  force  him  to  drop  his  prey,  and  frequently  seize  it 
before  it  can  disappear  under  water.  The  bald  eagle  is 
the  national  emblem  of  the  United  States.  It  was  well 
remarked  by  Dr.  Franklin,  that  the  wild  turkey  would 
have  answered  the  purpose  better,  being  exclusively  in- 
digenous to  North  America,  and  having  an  innate  and 
violent  antipathy  to  red  coats. 

Chambli  is  a  large,  straggling  village,  containing  per- 
haps 5000  inhabitants,  of  which  4000  are  communicants 
at  the  Catholic  church.  The  Catholic  doctrine,  divested 
of  the  pomp  and  absurdity  of  ceremony,  being  no  where 
more  strictly  adhered  to,  than  amongst  the  peasantry  of 
Lower  Canada.  The  houses  are  scattered  around  what 
is  called  the  basin  of  Chambli — a  lake  about  three  miles 
in  length  and  two  in  breadth,  formed  in  the  Richelieu 
river.  A  canal  is  now  forming,  which  in  a  few  years 
will  contribute  very  much  to  the  prosperity  and  import- 
ance of  the  village  of  Chambli  and  the  surrounding 
country.  When  finished,  the  course  of  navigation  be- 
tween lake  Champlain  and  the  St.  Lawrence,  at  present 
impeded  by  the  rapids  at  Chambli,  will  be  safe  from  in- 
terruption ;  so  that  the  produce  of  lt  the  townships,**  as 
the  lands  granted  by  the  crown  are  termed,  will  be  con- 
veyed directly  to  Quebec  instead  of  passing  through 
Montreal. 

An  old  fort  built  by  the  French  is  standing  at  the  foot 
of  the  rapids.  The  situation  is  selected  with  their  usual 
judgment,  it  being  scarcely  assailable  from  the  water. 
Chambli  has  also  barracks  for  1000  horse,  and  15,000 
infantry,  but  at  present  they  are  unoccupied. 

1  would  recommend  every  one  who  has  time  at  his 
disposal,  to  ascend  the  Belleisle  mountain,  distant  eleven 
miles  from  Chambli.  It  is  principally  composed  of 
granite,  and  rises  abruptly  from  the  plain  to  a  height  of 
more  than  2000  feet.  From  the  top  may  be  seen  the 
finest  view  in  the  Canadas.  The  eye  roams  on  every 
side,  over  a  vast  extent  of  country,  and  the  uniform  di- 
rection of  the  "  concessions"  or  lands  held  in  seignorie, 
16* 


186  SIX    MONTHS 

contributes  not  a  little  to  the  singularity  of  the  prospect. 
On  the  north,  the  St.  Lawrence  is  visible  on  a  clear 
day  as  far  as  the  "  Three  Rivers,"  which  is  half-way  to 
Quebec ;  on  the  south  and  east,  are  the  mountains  of 
New  York  and  Vermont.  The  city  of  Montreal,  at  the 
distance  of  seventeen  miles  to  the  westward,  would  ap- 
pear like  a  white  streak  on  the  banks  of  the  river ;  but 
that  the  superior  height  of  the  towers  of  the  cathedral 
are  distinctly  relieved  by  the  dark  wooded  sides  of  the 
hill,  whose  elevation  is  much  diminished  by  the  dis- 
tance. The  Richelieu  river  appears  to  run  at  the  foot 
of  the  mountain,  and  the  whole  of  its  course  is  visible 
from  lake  Champlain  to  the  St.  Lawrence.  The  moun- 
tain itself  is  exceedingly  picturesque  ;  a  small  and  very 
pretty  lake  being  embosomed  in  its  well- wooded  re- 
cesses, like  that  of  Tarni  near  Tivoli.  The  ascent  from 
Chambli  occupied  a  day  ;  but  I  thought  myself  amply 
repaid  for  the  time  I  had  expended,  and  the  fatigue  I 
had  undergone.  I  proceeded  to  St.  John's,  and  took 
the  steam-boat  for  lake  Champlain.  In  a  few  hours  we 
passed  the  old  fort  at  Rouse's  point,  which  by  the  late 
decision  of  the  king  of  the  Netherlands,  on  the  boundary 
question,  is  now  in  possession  of  the  Americans,  al- 
though it  stands  on  the  Canadian  side  of  the  river.  By 
the  treaty  of  1783,  the  boundary  line  between  the  United 
States  and  Lower  Canada  was  imperfectly  defined  as 
extending  **  from  the  northwest  angle  of  Nova  Scotia 
(now  New  Brunswick)  to  that  angle  which  is  formed  by 
a  line  drawn  due  north  from  the  source  of  the  St.  Croix 
river  to  the  Highlands ;  along  the  said  Highlands  which 
divide  those  rivers  that  empty  themselves  in  the  river 
St.  Lawrence  from  those  which  fall  into  the  Atlantic 
ocean."  But  as  the  land  had  never  been  surveyed,  so 
that  the  position  of  these  Highlands  might  be  ascer- 
tained, and  it  having  always  been  disputed  which  were 
the  rivers  referred  to,  commissioners  were  appointed  at 
the  treaty  of  Ghent,  to  determine  the  true  boundary, 
and  as  they  could  not  agree,  the  king  of  the  Netherlands 
was  proposed  as  an  arbitrator.  Two  lines  were  laid 
before  him,  on  one  of  which  he  was  to  decide ;  one 
drawn  by  the  Americans  on  the  north  of  the  Temis- 
conata  lake,  and  the  other  by  the  British  300  miles  to 
the  south  of  it.  His  majesty,  however,  in  his  award  fol- 
lowed neither  of  them ;  but  has  drawn  a  line  between 
them  to  the  river  St  John,  transferring  to  the  United 


IN    AMERICA.  187 

States  about  six  millions  of  acres ;  and  has  brought  the 
most  northerly  point  of  the  boundary  for  sixty  miles 
within  thirteen  miles  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  whilst  200 
miles  below  it  strikes  off  to  the  south-east  after  having 
approached  within  fifty  miles  of  Quebec.  The  old 
French  Canadian  settlers  on  the  St.  John  and  Mada- 
waska  settlements,  and  who,  like  the  rest  of  their  coun- 
trymen, have  a  mortal  antipathy  to  the  Americans,  are 
exceedingly  annoyed  at  being  thus  transferred  into  the 
dominion  of  the  States ;  but  as  both  Great  Britain  and 
the  United  States  are  dissatisfied  with  the  decision,  it  is 
probable  that  some  other  arrangement  will  be  made. 

We  then  passed  the  Isle  aux  Noix,  the  British  naval 
establishment  on  lake  Champlain.  I  observed  several 
schooners  on  the  stocks,  remaining,  like  the  ships  at 
Kingston,  as  they  were  at  the  close  of  the  war,  and 
several  old  gun  boats  that  appeared  to  have  taken  part 
in  it.  The  expenses  of  the  fort,  which  effectually  com- 
mands the  passage  from  the  lake,  are  the  same  as  those 
of  a  frigate ;  and,  as  such,  are  placed  on  the  naval  es- 
tablishment instead  of  the,  military. 

Upon  entering  the  lake,  the  shores  appeared  extremely 
flat  and  uninteresting.  We  touched  at  Plattsburgh,  and 
passed  over  the  scene  of  M'Donough's  victory  over  our 
fleet  in  the  last  war.  We  then  arrived  at  Burlington, 
and  at  nine  o'clock  the  next  morning  I  started  to  cross 
the  New  England,  or  Yankee  States,  on  my  way  to 
Boston.  The  coachman  drove  six-in-hand,  and  in  a 
very  workman-like  manner,  without  locking  the  wheels, 
but  descending  several  hills  so  steep  that  as  a  Yankee 
expressed  himself,  "  It  was  like  driving  off  the  roof  of  a 
house."  A  detailed  description  of  the  road  is  unneces- 
sary :  it  wottnd  through  the  beautiful  and  well  cultivated 
valleys  of  Verrilttnt  and  New  Hampshire,  running  for 
many  miles  along  the  banks  of  the  Onion  and  Con- 
necticut rivers :  whilst  the  forests  on  the  hills  around 
were  every  where  clothed  in  their  splendid  autumnal 
garb,  and  overshadowed  some  of  the  prettiest  and  hap- 
piest looking  villages  I  ever  saw  in  any  country ;  the 
houses  being  chiefly  white,  with  green  blinds,  and  other- 
wise displaying  an  excellent  taste  in  design.  Whole 
fields  were  strewed  with  enormous  pumpkins,  and 
others  were  covered  with  broom  corn,  which  is  no  bad 
substitute  for  oats.  We  passed  through  Montpelier, 
and  skirted  the  rocky  mountain  of  Monadnoc,  stopping 


188  SIX    MONTHS 

to  look  at  the  Bellow's  fall,  on  the  Connecticut  river,  and 
afterwards  arriving  at  Concord,  where  the  fire  of  the 
British  troops  was  returned  by  the  Americans  for  the 
first  time  during-  the  revolutionary  war,  on  the  19th  of 
April,  ]  775.  General  Gage  had  sent  them  to  seize  and 
destroy  some  stores  which  had  been  secretly  collected 
at  Concord.  They  succeeded  in  their  attempt,  but 
were  subsequently  obliged  to  retreat.  The  fight  took 
place  at  the  north  bridge,  about  three  quarters  of  a 
mile  from  the  bridge  over  which  the  road  now  passes. 
The  inhabitants  are  proud  and  justly  proud,  of  this 
event. 

At  Lexington,  six  miles  nearer  to  Boston,  stands  a 
plain  monument  to  the  memory  of  the  militia  men  who 
were  fired  upon  and  dispersed  by  the  British  troops  on 
the  same  morning,  previously  to  their  advance  upon 
Concord. 

I  entered  Boston  by  the  light  of  innumerable  lamps, 
that  plainly  marked  the  direction  of  its  many  bridges, 
and  took  up  my  quarters  at  the  Tremont  hotel, — de- 
cidedly, taken  altogether,  the  best  house  in  the  United 
States.  The  table  and  the  bed-rooms  were  equally 
good,  which  is  not  the  case  at  any  other  I  had  seen.  In 
appearance  it  more  resembles  a  government  building 
than  a  hotel.  Breakfast,  dinner,  tea,  and  supper  are 
served  up,  as  usual,  at  a  certain  hour  ;  and  although 
that  hour  at  breakfast  time  is  liberally  extended,  yet  if 
it  happens  that  a  person  be  detained  too  long,  he  must 
either  go  without  his  dinner,  or  put  up  with  cold  and 
disfigured  viands  placed  before  him  with  an  ill  grace  by 
a  tired  waiter,  or  pay  extra  for  a  meal  expressly  served 
up  for  him  ;  as  the  hotel  charges  are  two,  or  two  dollars 
and  a  half  a-day,  and  it  makes  no  difference  whether  he 
attends  the  table  d'hote  or  not. 

The  principal  theatre  is  exactly  opposite  the  Tremont. 
The  front  is  ornamented  with  Ionic  pilasters  supporting 
an  entablature  and  pediment.  The  interior  is  taste- 
fully arranged,  but  is  seldom  visited  by  the  first  circles. 

The  Indian  name  of  Boston  was  Shawmut,  its  first 
English  appellation  was  Trimountain,  and  its  present 
name  was  given  in  1630. 

At  an  early  day  after  my  arrival,  I  took  the  opportu- 
nity of  ascending  the  capitol,  which  stands  on  the  most 
elevated  corner  of  "  the  Common."  The  Common,  ac- 
cording to  the  usual  English  signification  of  the  word, 


IN    AMERICA.  189 

deserves  a  better  name,  as  it  is  the  prettiest  promenade 
in  the  States.  It  contains  about  seventy-five  acres,  dis- 
posed in  a  sloping  direction  from  north  to  south,  varied 
by  other  eminences,  of  which  the  most  conspicuous  is 
formed  by  the  not  yet  quite  levelled  remains  of  the 
British  fortifications  of  1775.  It  is  surrounded  by  trees, 
and  the  best  houses  in  Boston ;  some  of  them  being 
large  and  handsome,  and  not  the  less  deserving  of  the 
epithet  because  they  are  of  a  stone  colour,  or  any  other 
than  that  of  red  brick.  But  at  Boston  generally  I  ob- 
served greater  taste  in  this  respect  than  in  any  other  of 
the  cities  which  I  visited.  On  one  side  of  the  Common 
is  a  mall,  or  promenade,  formed  by  parallel  avenues  of 
fine  elm  trees ;  but  yet,  notwithstanding  the  beauty  of 
its  situation,  it  is  deserted  by  the  Boston  belles  for  the 
gay  glitter  of  the  fashionable  shops  in  Cornhill  or  Wash- 
ington street. 

To  the  best  of  my  recollection,  every  capitol  or  state- 
house  that  I  have  seen,  or  of  which  I  have  seen  a  pic- 
ture, is  surmounted  by  a  dome  or  cupola, — that  of  Bos- 
ton is  particularly  conspicuous ;  but  the  smoothness  of 
its  exterior  is  but  ill  assorted  with  the  richness  of  the 
Corinthian  columns  in  the  fa?ade  :  it  should  be  grooved 
like  the  dome  of  St.  Paul's.  The  present  heavy  appear- 
ance of  the  cupola  at  Washington  would  be  very  much 
improved  if  it  were  altered  in  a  similar  manner. 

The  capitol  at  Boston  contains  a  very  fine  statue  of 
Washington,  by  Chantrey.  From  the  top  is  obtained  a 
fine  panoramic  view  of  the  whole  city,  with  the  bay,  its 
islands,  and  their  fortifications  ;  its  bridges,  wharfs,  and 
enormous  warehouses.  On  the  north  is  the  memorable 
Bunker's  Hill,  with  part  of  the  fine  obelisk  that  is  to  be  ; 
the  navy-yard,  and  the  suburb  of  Charlestown.  The 
bay  of  Boston,  like  that  of  New  York,  i&  fondly  thought 
by  some  of  the  inhabitants  of  each  city  to  be  as  fine,  if 
not  superior  in  beauty  to  that  of  Naples  ; — whether  they 
have  seen  it  or  not,  is  of  little  consequence;  the  bay  of 
Boston,  with  its  flat  treeless  islands  and  head-lands,  shall 
be  as  fine  as  the  bay  of  Naples,  and  so  may  it  remain! 

The  city  resembles  Baltimore  more  than  any  other  in 
the  Union  :  as  a  collection  of  buildings  it  is  prettier,  but 
I  prefer  the  environs  of  the  latter  city  to  the  more  dis- 
tant hills  that  form  the  amphitheatre  of  Boston,  which 
is  too  large  to  add  much  effect  to  the  landscape. 

Boston  contains  70,000  inhabitants,  and  the  first  bridge 


190  SIX    MONTHS 

and  the  first  canal  in  the  United  States  were  constructed 
there.  It  appeared  to  me  the  neatest  city  in  the  Union  ; 
and  although  there  is  no  edifice  particularly  striking, 
yet  there  are  many  that  are  handsome,  and  there  is  an 
air  of  civic  importance  pervading  every  street  in  the 
place,  so  that  the  eye  does  not  easily  detect  the  absence 
of  any  object  that  is  necessary  to  complete  the  appear- 
ance of  a  place  of  such  pretensions  as  Boston.  The 
Faneuil  Hall,  named  after  the  founder,  who  lived  a 
hundred  years  ago,  must  not  be  forgotten.  It  is  the 
cradle  of  American  liberty ;  because,  within  its  walls 
were  held  and  heard  the  consultations  and  the  eloquence 
of  those,  who,  more  than  fifty  years  back,  were  first 
aroused  to  resentment  and  resistance  by  the  obstinacy 
of  the  government  of  England.  It  contains  an  original 
full-length  portrait  of  Washington  in  his  regimentals,  by 
Stewart.  The  figure  is  excellent,  but  the  horse  is  very 
indifferently  executed.  The  other  ornaments  in  the 
hall,  are  emblematical  of  the  purposes  to  which  it  is  ap- 
plied. Public  meetings  and  dinners  are  held  there,  and 
the  company  usually  leave  behind  them  the  decorations 
that  have  been  mottoed  for  the  occasion.  The  name  of 
"  Skryznecki  "  was  very  conspicuous,  among  a  multitude 
of  others. 

Societies  have  always  been  in  vogue  among  the  young 
Bostonians.  The  objects  of  some  of  them  are  ridiculous 
enough.  Many  years  ago  a  sum  of  JE500  was  raised  by 
subscription  for  the  purpose  of  converting  the  Jews  in 
England.  At  a  much  later  period,  a  self-constituted  col- 
lege  of  young  fellows  sent  a  diploma  to  the  Emperor  of 
Russia ;  another  gang,  who  called  themselves  "  the  Peace 
Society,"  sent  a  deputation  to  the  same  august  person- 
age, requesting  him  to  become  a  member.  His  answer 
was  very  gj^icious,  and  was  accompanied  by  a  valuable 
diamond  ring.  A  Massachusetts  farmer,  hearing  of 
this,  immediately  packed  up  and  despatched  to  him  an 
enormous  turnip,  ("  considerable  vegetable  ")  as  a  speci- 
men of  American  agricultural  produce.  He  received  no 
diamond  ring,  which  was  not  a  fair  return,  as  it  was 
quite  reasonable  to  suppose  that,  as  of  yore,  the  head  of 
a  "  noble  Swede  "  would  not  be  an  unacceptable  present 
to  the  Autocrat.  A  pair  of  colours,  which  ought  to  have 
been  worked  by  the  fair  hands  of  the  Boston  belles,  were 
lately  forwarded  to  the  Poles,  through  the  hands  of  Gene- 
ral Lafayette ;  and  before  I  quitted  the  United  States,  a 


IN    AMERICA.  191 

meeting  favourable  to  the  Poles  was  held  at  New  Or- 
leans, and  "  an  army  in  disguise,"  consisting  of  no  less 
than  twenty-nine  volunteers,  was  waiting  at  New  York 
in  order  to  sail  to  their  assistance.  The  delay,  I  under- 
stood, had  arisen  on  account  of  a  dispute  as  to  the  place 
of  embarkation,  because,  in  case  of  their  triumphant  re- 
turn, the  city  that  last  held  them  would  be  entitled  to 
the  whole  honour  of  the  expedition. 

I  was  present  at  a  meeting  in  the  Faneuil  Hall,  held 
for  the  purpose  of  adopting  resolutions,  and  electing  re- 
presentatives to  attend  the  grand  meeting  on  the  tariff 
question,  which  was  held  on  the  26th  of  October,  at  New 
York.  , 

The  li terary  institutions  at  Boston  are  very  numerous, 
and  the  number  of  booksellers'  shops  is  quite  surprising. 
Upwards  of  60,000  dollars  are  annually  expended  in  pub- 
lic education,  and  perhaps  an  additional  150,000  may  be 
the  amount  laid  out  in  private  establishments.  There 
are  fourteen  infant  schools  in  the  city,  and  sixty  primary 
schools,  affording  the  means  of  education  to  about  4000 
children.  The  next  in  order  are  the  grammar  schools, 
and  the  Latin  school,  from  which  the  boys  are  qualified 
to  go  to  Cambridge  (Harvard)  University.  Upon  enter- 
ing the  infant  schools,  the  first  questions  I  chanced  to 
hear  were  very  national,  characteristic,  and  amusing. 
"  When  goods  are  brought  into  a  country,  what  do  you 
call  it? — Importing  goods!  and  when  goods  are  taken 
out  of  a  country,  what  do  you  call  it? — Exporting  goods !" 
with  a  most  joyous  and  tumultuous  emphasis  upon  the 
distinguishing  syllable  of  either  answer.  Cambridge,  or 
Harvard  University  is  about  three  miles  from  Boston, 
and  situated  within  a  large  enclosure.  The  centre 
ouilding,  amongst  several  others  detached,  and  standing 
apart,  is  of  stone,  and  contains  the  lecture  and  dining 
rooms,  and  a  ^library  of  37,000  volumes — the  best  in 
America.*  I  was  shown  nothing  remarkable  in  it,  ex- 
cepting a  valuable  manuscript  of  the  aphorisms  of  Hip- 
pocrates. I  also  saw  the  apartment  containing  the  phi- 
losophical apparatus,  and  another  in  which  there  was  a 
very  good  collection  of  minerals.  I  could  not  refrain 
from  a  hearty  laugh  at  the  contents  of  a  paper  which 
was  wafered  on  the  outer  door  of  the  library,  and  which 

*  The  Philadelphia  Library  contains  42,000  volumes.  Mr.  Vigne 
seems  to  have  decided  which  was  "  best,"  after  having  been 
shown^"  nothing  remarkable"  excepting  a  single  manuscript.— Ed. 


192  SIX    MONTHS 

I  was  malicious  enough  to  copy  whilst  the  librarian  was 
absent  in  search  of  the  keys.  "  Missing,  the  first  and  se- 
cond volumes  of  the  catalogue  of  books  in  the  library  of 
Harvard  University  !  If  the  person  who  borrowed,  will 
return  them  immediately  to  their  place  on  the  table,  he 
will  oblige  all  those  who  have  occasion  to  consult  them, 
and  no  questions  will  be  asked." — (Signed  by  the  Li- 
brarian.) 

The  whole  annual  expenses  of  an  undergraduate  do 
not  amount  to  more  than  250  dollars;  for  this  he  is 
boarded  and  instructed  by  the  lectures  of  different  pro- 
fessors on  every  subject,  from  divinity  to  "  obstetrics," 
and  medical  jurisprudence.  Christianity  is  respected 
and  promoted  in  its  broadest  sense,  not  according  to  the 
tenets  of  ariy  particular  sect :  the  professor  of  divinity 
being  obliged  to  declare  his  belief  in  the  scriptures,  as 
the  only  perfect  rule  of  faith  and  manners,  and  to  pro- 
mise that  he  will  explain  and  open  them  to  his  pupils 
with  integrity  and  faithfulness,  according  to  the  best  light 
that  God  shall  give  him,  &c. 

Massachusetts  is  the  only  state  of  the  Union  in  which 
a  legislative  jurisdiction  is  made  for  the  support  of  reli- 
gion. In  every  other,  a  person  is  at  liberty  to  belong  to 
any  sect,  or  none  if  he  pleases ;  but  in  this  state  the  con- 
stitution compels  every  citizen  to  be  a  member  of  some 
religious  order,  or  pay  for  the  support  of  some  teacher  of 
religion,  although  in  making  the  choice  it  allows  him  to 
follow  the  bent  of  his  own  inclinations. 

With  respect  to  the  salaries  of  clergymen,  it  may  be 
mentioned,  that  in  the  large  cities  they  vary  from  one  to 
three  thousand  dollars,  and  from  five  hundred  to  a  thou- 
sand in  the  more  populous  country  parishes,  exclusively 
of  perquisites.  Every  clergyman  is  paid  by  his  own 
congregation,  so  that  his  engagement  with  them  is  a 
kind  of  contract. 

At  Boston,  I  attended  the  Unitarian  chapel,  in  order 
to  hear  the  celebrated  Dr.  Channing,  whose  preaching 
was  so  popular  during  his  residence  in  London  a  few 
years  ago.  His  language  was  very  fine,  his  accent  pure- 
ly English,  and  his  manner  more  subdued  than  that  of 
American  preachers  in  general,  who  are  usually  too  ora- 
torical to  be  impressive.  I  was  fortunate  in  hearing  an 
exposition  of  his  doctrine.  He  considered  Christianity 
as  only  a  kindred  light  to  nature  and  reason ;  that  the 
germs  or  seeds  of  the  different  excellences  in  the  charac 


IN  AMERICA*  193 

ter  of  Christ  were  to  be  found  in  the  bosom  of  every  man, 
but.  that  lie  alone  possessed  them  in  an  eminent  degree  ; 
and  that  the  doctrine  of  the  atonement  had  its  foundation 
in  the  fears  of  guilty  mankind,  &c.  &c.  The  extraordi- 
nary eloquence  of  the  preacher  did  not,  however,  make 
me  a  convert  to  his  tenets ;  yet  it  riveted  my  attention 
for  more  than  an  hour,  and  I  came  away  with  the  im- 
pression that  he  was  one  of  the  very  finest  preachers  I 
had  ever  heard  ;  although  I  was  not  shaken  in  the  con- 
viction, that  where  there  is  no  settled  form  of  prayer, 
the  principal  part  of  the  service  must  necessarily  be  the 
sermon,  and  that  the  sermon,  if  it  be  at  all  worth  hear- 
ing, instead  of  containing  religious  admonition,  is  usual- 
ly filled  with  a  discussion  on  controverted  points  of  doc- 
trine. 

The  medical  college  at  Boston  is  a  department  of 
Harvard  University.  There  has  been,  and  still  is,  as  in 
England,  a  difficulty  in  obtaining  subjects  for  dissection 
in  the  United  States.  It  is  remedied  by  different  laws 
in  different  states  :  the  more  usual  provision  being,  that 
the  bodies  of  persons  who  die  in  almshouses,  or  by  the 
hands  of  the  executioner,  or  who  are  unknown,  shall  be 
given  up  for  that  purpose. 

When  at  Boston,  I  was  favoured  with  the  sight  of  an 
admirable  picture,  just  finished  by  Mr.  Alston ;  the 
scene  being  taken  from  Mrs.  Radcliffe's  novel  of  the 
Italian,  where  the  assassin,  who  is  obliged  to  commit 
murder  at  the  instigation  of  the  monk,  is  terrified  by  the 
fancied  apparition  of  a  bleeding  hand.  The  monk,  with 
a  stronger  intellect  and  more  determined  purpose,  is 
raising  a  lamp  that  he  may  be  enabled  to  see  more  clear- 
ly into  the  darkness  of  the  vault.  A  better  flame  and  a 
more  murky  atmosphere  were  never  painted.  The  out- 
line of  the  figures  is  extremely  good,  and  the  terror  in 
the  countenance  of  the  murderer,  is  finely  contrasted  with 
the  cool,  stern,  and  incredulous  gaze  of  the  monk. 

Mr.  Alston,  who  is  the  first,  if  not  the  only  historical 
painter  in  America,  has  been  employed  for  many  years 
upon  a  very  large  picture,  which  is  not  to  be  seen  by  any 
one  till  finished.  The  subject  is  Belshazzar's  Feast ;  and 
the  figures  are  as  large  as  life.  He  intends  to  rest  his 
reputation  on  the  success  of  this  painting,  which  will 
not  see  the  light  till  he  himself  is  perfectly  satisfied  with 
it.  Many  parts  of  it  are  said  to  have  been  repeatedly 
altered.  On  one  occasion  when  it  was  threatened  by 
17 


194  SIX   MONTHS 

fire,  Mr.  Alston  requested  a  particular  friend  to  assist 
him  in  its  removal,  but  made  him  walk  with  his  back 
towards  the  picture,  that  he  might  not  catch  a  glimpse 
of  it. 

Lowell,  the  Manchester  of  America,  is  twenty-seven 
miles  from  Boston,  and  may  be  visited  in  the  way  from 
Burlington  to  Boston.  Twelve  years  ago  there  was 
scarcely  a  house  in  the  place  ;  and  only  eight  years  ago 
it  formed  part  of  a  farming  town,  which  was  thought 
singularly  unproductive,  even  in  the  midst  of  the  sterile 
and  rocky  region  with  which  it  is  surrounded.  At  pre- 
sent it  contains  8000  people,  who  are  all  more  or  less 
connected  with  the  manufactories ;  and  thirty-three 
large  wheels,  which  are  the  movers  of  all  the  machinery 
in  the  place,  are  turned  by  means  of  canals  supplied  by 
the  prodigious  water-power  contained  in  the  rapid  stream 
of  the  Merrimack  river.  There  is  no  steam-power  there, 
and  consequently  little  or  no  smoke  is  visible,  and  every 
thing  wears  the  appearance  of  comfort  and  cleanliness. 
At  present  there  are  50,000  cotton-spindles  in  operation 
at  Lowell,  besides  a  satinet  and  carpet  manufactory.  A 
good  English  carpet  weaver  who  understands  his  busi- 
ness, may  earn  a  dollar  a-day ;  but  the  calico  weaving 
is  chiefly  performed  by  females,  whose  general  neatness 
of  appearance  reflects  the  greatest  credit  upon  them- 
selves and  their  employers.  No  less  than  40,000  additional 
spindles  had  been  contracted  for,  and  workmen  were 
employed  upon  them  in  the  large  building  called  the 
machine-shop,  which  of  itself  is  well  worth  the  attention  of 
the  traveller.  The  vast  buildings  belonging  to  the  Mer- 
rimack and  Hamilton  companies,  are  very  conspicuous 
from  the  road  by  which  the  town  is  approached  from 
Boston,  particularly  the  latter,  which  are  ranged  along 
the  side  of  the  canal.  As  yet  there  is,  I  believe,  no  linen 
manufactory  in  the  United  States.  Lowell  contains  the 
most  extensive  cotton-works  ;  but  as  a  manufacturing 
town  merely,  its  population  and  business  are  perhaps 
trebled  at  Pittsburgh  on  the  Ohio.  The  scenery  about 
Lowell  is  not  deficient  in  interest  and  beauty,  but  it 
scarcely  merits  further  description. 

The  prices  of  provisions  at  Boston  for  the  last  two 
or  three  years  have  been  as  follows  :  the  best  beef  has 
sold  at  eight  or  ten  cents  (nearly  five-pence  halfpen- 
ny) the  pound  ;  mutton  from  six  to  eight  cents  :  veni- 
son from  ten  to  twenty-five  cents  ;  salmon  from  ten  to 


IN   AMERICA.  195 

twelve  cents,  and  other  fish  from  two  to  four  cents. 
Butter  from  fourteen  to  sixteen  cents;  cheese  fourteen 
and  a  half;  coffee  from  thirteen  to  fourteen  cents. 
Tea  of  course  varies  in  price  according  to  its  quality  ; 
the  best  tea  in  all  the  larger  cities  selling  from  about 
one  dollar  and  a  quarter  to  two  dollars  a  pound.  Be- 
fore  the  East  India  Company  entered  into  the  Canada 
tea  trade,  the  colonies  were  supplied  from  the  United 
States.  But  now  the  course  of  smuggling,  which 
from  the  nature  of  the  country  it  is  morally  impossible 
to  prevent,  is  decidedly  in  favour  of  the  Canadas. 
The  duties  on  tea  in  the  United  States  have  been  re- 
duced nearly  fifty  per  cent,  since  the  31st  of  Decem- 
ber, 1831;  but  still  the  duties  in  the  Canadas  are  very 
much  lower;  the  best  gunpowder  tea,  for  instance, 

Saying  a  duty  of  twenty -five  cents,  whilst  in  the  Cana- 
as  it  pays  but  four  pence,  and  hyson  tea  paying  a 
duty  of  eighteen  cents  in  the  United  States,  and  but 
sixpence  in  the  Canadas,  &c.  The  Americans  have 
petitioned  for  a  further  reduction  of  the  duties ;  but  it 
appears  that  none  will  be  made  as  yet.  If  the  Ameri- 
can government  would  allow  the  tariff  duties  and  the 
national  debt  to  expire  at  the  same  time,  it  is  not  diffi- 
cult to  foresee,  that  as  it  is  the  amount  of  duties 
which  governs  the  trade,  the  provinces  would  again  be 
supplied  from  the  United  States,  unless  the  British  go- 
vernment should  lower  their  duties  also;  and  then  if 
this  were  to  be  done,  and  the  United  States  and  the 
Canadas  were  on  the  same  footing,  as  the  East  India 
Company  are  supposed  to  purchase  their  teas  as 
cheaply  as  they  can  be  purchased,  no  fear  need  be  en- 
tertained by  the  Canadas  that  any  advantage  will  be 
gained  over  the  British  trade  with  regard  to  the  ex- 
penses of  importation.  And  in  addition  to  this,  the 
rapid  means  of  communication  with  the  Upper  Pro- 
vince, afforded  by  the  Rideau  canal,  will,  it  is  sup- 
posed, bid  defiance  to  hurtful  competition  on  the  part 
of  the  Americans,  when  either  the  time  or  the  cost  of 
conveyance  is  considered.  The  course  of  the  tea 
trade  between  the  United  States  and  the  Canadas  has 
been  so  much  in  favour  of  the  British  colonies,  that 
the  East  India  Company  intend  this  year  to  send  out 
four  ships  to  Quebec  and  Halifax,  instead  of  two  as 
heretofore.  Many  of  the  old  contraband  traders  havo 


196  SIX  MONTHS 

amassed  large  fortunes :  the  consumer,  whether  royal- 
ist or  republican,  having  been  by  no  means  averse  to 
render  assistance  where  it  was  obviously  for  his  own 
benefit  to  do  so. 

At  Boston,  Philadelphia,  and  Baltimore,  house  rent 
is  about  fifteen  per  cent,  cheaper  than  at  New  York, 
where  the  rent  of  a  good  house,  situated,  for  instance, 
on  a  par  with  those  in  Gloucester-place  in  London, 
would  amount  to  one  thousand  or  one  thousand  two 
hundred  dollars  a  year;  but  counting-houses  and 
other  houses,  taken  for  their  convenient  situations 
with  reference  to  commercial  purposes,  would  rent  in 
either  of  the  largest  cities  just  mentioned,  at  a  higher 
rate  than  in  London. 

The  assessment  or  tax  upon  houses  varies  in  the 
different  cities,  from  five  to  eight  dollars  in  the  thou- 
sand. 

At  Boston,  the  wages  of  an  in-door  male  servant 
are  from  ten  to  eighteen  dollars  a  month;  of  females 
from  one  and  a  quarter  to  two  dollars  a  week. 

The  expense  of  keeping  a  horse  at  livery  in  either 
of  the  larger  cities  is  about  ten  dollars  a  month  ;  but 
if  groomed  by  a  gentleman's  own  servant  it  may  be 
done  for  half  that  sum  exclusively  of  the  groom's 
wages.  Hay  has  been  very  abundant  in  Boston  mar- 
ket for  the  last  two  or  three  years,  and  has  sold 
at  from  ten  to  fifteen  dollars  the  ton.  Oats  at  forty- 
five  to  fifty  cents  the  bushel,  wholesale  price. 

In  Boston  a  carriage  and  a  pair  of  horses,  in- 
cluding the  coachman's  wages,  &c.,  may  be  kept 
at  an  annual  expense  of  three  hundred  and  fifty  dollars, 
about  801. 

I  shall  ever  feel  grateful  for  the  hospitable  reception 
I  met  with  at  Boston.  The  society  is  excellent — the 
Bostonians  more  resembling  the  English  than  the  in- 
habitants of  any  other  city  I  had  visited ;  and  the 
bearing  and  appearance  of  some  of  them  being  so 
aristocratical  that  they  have  much  ado  to  keep  one 
another  in  countenance.  The  governor  of  Massachu- 
setts is  entitled  "  his  excellency,"  and  the  lieutenant- 
governor  is  addressed  as  "your  honour."  The  belles  of 
Boston  dress  exceedingly  well,  better  perhaps  than 
any  others  in  the  Union;  Philadelphia  and  Baltimore 
not  excepted.  At  New  York,  as  I  have  before  re- 


IN    AMERICA.  197 

marked,  tfie  colours  of  their  dresses  are  far  too  gaudy, 
and  certainly  ill-judged  as  to  the  manner  and  the 
time  of  wearing  them. 

I  believe  that  there  is  in  England  a  very  mistaken 
idea  of  American  society ;  as  I  have  frequently  been 
asked,  what  could  not  but  appear  to  me  the  most  un- 
fair and  absurd  questions  on  this  subject.  With  us 
the  term  "  Yankee"  is  generally  one  of  ridicule,  if  not 
of  disdain ;  but  to  apply  it  in  that  sense  to  all  the 
members  of  society  in  the  United  States,  is  far  too  in- 
discriminate to  be  just.  There  is,  as  I  have  before  re- 
marked, an  aristocracy  in  every  city  in  the  Union  ; 
and,  perhaps,  as  many  as  four  or  five  different  sects  or 
circles,  notwithstanding  their  boasted  equality  of  con- 
dition. As  far  as  I  have  been  able  to  judge  from  what 
I  have  seen  and  heard,  the  American  ladies  are  cer- 
tainly not  (generally  speaking)  what  in  England 
would  be  called  accomplished — in  music  and  drawing, 
for  instance  :  and  still  fewer  of  them  are  entitled  to 
the  appellation  of  "a  blue;"  but  if  exceedingly  pretty 
features,  elegant  dress  and  manners,  and  agreeable 
and  sprightly  conversation  are  to  have  the  same 
weight  with  us  in  forming  an  opinion  of  the  state  of 
society  in  America,  that  we  should  allow  to  them  if 
speaking  of  society  in  England,  I  cannot  but  affirm 
that  the  refinement  of  first  circles  in  the  larger  Ameri- 
can cities  is  very  far  advanced,  and  much  farther  than 
it  has  credit  for  in  England.  Gentlemen,  who  are 
such  from  feeling,  from  habit,  and  from  education,  are 
to  be  met  with  in  every  part  of  the  states ;  men  who 
are  quite  distinct  from  the  tobacco-chewing,  guessing, 
calkilating,  fixing,  locating,  expecting,  and  expecto- 
rating Yankee,  whose  very  twang,  even  in  the  merriest 
moments,  has  something  in  it  that  is  absolutely  pro- 
voking to  the  ear  of  an  Englishman,  and  in  whose 
presence  one  is  often  tempted  to  exclaim,  "  Be  their 
constitution  what  it  may,  for  heaven's  sake  let  us 
have  something  gentleman-like !" 

I  would  here  earnestly  recommend  every  traveller 
in  the  States,  never  to  leave  any  thing  to  bo  done  by 
another  which  he  can  reasonably  do  for  himself;  and 
never  to  defer  any  arrangement  which  had  better  be 
made  over  night,  in  the  expectation  that  all  will  go 
smoothly  in  the  morning,  unless  of  course  he  have 
17* 


198  SIX    MONTHS 

with  him  a  confidential  European  servant.  With  or- 
dinary care  there  is  not  much  fear  of  losing  any  thing 
by  theft ;  but  the  Yankees  are  often  as  careless  of  the 
property  of  others,  as  they  are  careful  of  their  own. 
Above  all  things,  let  him,  as  "Bob  Short"  has  it,  "be 
sure  to  keep  his  temper."  Anger  is  of  not  the  slightest 
use,  and  a  man  may  as  well  be  out  of  humour  with 
his  mantelpiece,  as  with  a  Yankee.  Independence  is 
visible  in  the  countenance  both  of  the  Englishman  and 
the  American  :  but  in  the  one,  it  is  stamped  as  it 
should  be  on  the  forehead  ;  with  the  other,  it  is  more 
often  entwined  in  the  curl  of  the  nether  lip.  Never 
take  the  corner  inside  a  coach  on  a  rainy  day,  you'll 
be  wet  to  the  skin :  carefully  avoid  comparison  be- 
tween any  thing  that  is  American,  and  any  thing  that 
is  European,  particularly  if  it  should  be  English.  I 
have  several  times  received  a  friendly  caution  from 
Americans  themselves  on  this  head.  .  There  are  libe- 
ral minded  men  in  the  States  who  will  talk  like  gentle- 
men on  every  subject ;  but  I  believe  there  is  nothing 
unjust  in  the  remark  that  jealousy  of  England  and 
English  arts,  and  English  improvements,  and  English 
manufactures,  may  be  reasonably  classed  as  the  most 
prominent  of  their  national  failings, — and  that  out  of 
what  may  be  designated  as  steam-boat  acquaintance, 
there  are  not  fifty  men,  from  Maine  to  Louisiana,  who 
can  listen  to  such  a  comparison  without  biting  their 
lips. 

I  left  Boston,  as  I  did  Baltimore,  with  regret,  and 
proceeded  to  Providence,  the  capital  of  Rhode  Island. 
In  the  way,  I  passed  through  Pawtucket,  a  very  con- 
siderable manufacturing  town  on  the  banks  of  the 
Blackstone  river. 

"  Providence  contains  nearly  20,000  inhabitants,  seve- 
ral manufactures,  and  some  exceedingly  good  private 
houses.  In  the  neighbourhood,  by  the  assistance  of  a 
friend,  I  procured  some  excellent  woodcock  shooting. 
Upon  my  return,  I  chanced  to  be  standing  with  my  gun 
in  my  hand  near  the  bar  of  the  inn,  when  a  very  decent 
looking  American  coolly  removed  a  cigar  from  his  mouth, 
and  most  civilly  addressed  me  with,  "  Well,  stranger  ! 
how  do  you  prosper  in  gunning  ?" 

At  Providence  I  embarked  for  New  York  in  the 
splendid  steamboat,  the  President,  passing  by  Newport,  a 
large  and  populous  place,  much  resorted  to  on  account  of 


IN  AMERICA.  1  99 

the  sea  breeze,  which  is  said  to  be  cool  and  refreshing 
during  the  greatest  heats  of  summer.  The  Providence 
river  is  one  of  the  finest  harbours  in  the  Northern  States, 
and  the  best  station  for  ships  of  war ;  as  a  junction 
could  be  effected  with  a  fleet  from  the  Chesapeake  in 
less  than  forty  hours,  with  the  same  wind  that  would 
be  adverse  to  a  ship  sailing  from  Boston  harbour,  and 
would  perhaps  prevent  a  junction  in  less  than  ten  days. 
The  next  morning  I  found  myself  once  more  at  New 
York — standing  just  where  it  did  when  I  first  left  it ;  and 
after  the  lapse  of  a  day,  I  embarked  in  a  steamboat  to 
proceed  up  the  North  or  Hudson's  river.  The  extreme 
rapidity  with  which  we  were  hurried  through  the  water 
soon  carried  me  into  the  midst  of  the  most  superb  river 
scenery  I  had  yet  beheld  in  America.  I  congratulate 
myself  upon  having  deferred  this  excursion  to  the  end 
of  my  tour  instead  of  seeing  it  at  first,  and  would  recom- 
mend every  traveller  to  do  the  same,  because  all  that 
will  be  seen  afterwards  of  the  same  description  will 
probably  lose  by  a  comparison.  The  western  bank  soon 
presents  a  perpendicular  of  trap  rock,  so  denominated 
on  account  of  its  basaltic  formations  and  general  ap- 
pearance, *'  the  pallisades"  continuing  for  nearly  twenty 
miles  along  the  river,  and  forming  a  natural  wall  or  preci- 
pice, which  varies  from  twenty  feet  to  five  hundred  feet  in 
height,  nor  is  the  elevation  sensibly  diminished  by  the 
great  width  of  the  stream.  On  the  east  or  opposite 
bank,  at  a  distance  of  twenty-five  miles  from  New 
York,  my  attention  was  excited  by  the  beautiful  situa- 
tion of  a  small  village  embosomed  in  woods,  and  still 
farther  concealed  by  a  projecting  headland.  Upon  en- 
quiry I  found  it  was  Tarrytown,  where  Major  Andre 
was  made  prisoner,  and  its  appearance  immediately  be- 
came  doubly  interesting.  Whether  he  was  or  was  not 
•e  spy,  cannot,  I  think,  be  determined  without  an  answer 
to  the  enquiry,  "  suppose  he  had  succeeded  ?" — but 
whether  the  cause  of  freedom  would  have  thriven  the 
worse  for  the  generous  dismissal  of  a  noble-minded 
enemy,  or  whether  the  memory  of  Washington  would 
have  descended  to  posterity  the  less  untarnished  in  con- 
sequence of  such  an  action,  are  questions  which  are  still 
less  problematical.  Major  Andre  was  executed  at  Tap- 
pan,  on  the  other  side  of  the  river,  standing  on  the 
boundary  line  between  the  states  of  New  York  and 
New  Jersey. 


200  SIX    MONTHS 

The  penitentiary  at  Sing-sing  is  the  next  object  of  at- 
traction ;  it  is  built  by  the  convicts  themselves,  in  the 
shape  of  a  rectangle,  40  feet  by  480.  The  system  of  soli- 
tary confinement  adopted  there,  is  the  same  as  that  of  Au- 
burn in  the  western  part  of  the  state  of  New  York.  The 
prisoners  are  confined  separately,  and  are  brought  out  to 
work  together  in  the  lime-stone  quarries  immediately  ad- 
joining the  prison,  but  are  never  allowed  to  utter  a  sylla- 
ble to  each  other.  It  would  appear  that  under  all  cir- 
cumstances this  system  is  not  more  likely  to  prevent 
crime,  than  that  which  is  pursued  in  Philadelphia  ;  and 
on  the  other  hand,  with  regard  to  the  reformation  of  a 
prisoner  in  after  life,  I  should  humbly  conceive  the  latter 
mode  to  be  preferable  ;  because  as  one  prisoner  is  never 
seen  by  another,  it  is  very  clear  he  cannot  be  recognised, 
but  can  commence  a  new  life  without  risking  a  sneer 
from  a  former  companion  in  confinement. 

I  had  lately  enjoyed  the  agreeable  society  of  two 
French  gentlemen,  who  were  travelling  for  the  French 
government,  with  instructions  to  visit  the  different  prisons 
in  the  United  States  in  which  the  system  of  solitary  con- 
finement was  adopted,  with  a  view  of  ascertaining  whe- 
ther it  was  practicable  in  France.  They  informed  me, 
that  as  far  as  they  had  seen,  they  were  of  opinion  that  the 
system  could  be  adopted,  were  it  not  for  the  expense  to 
be  incurred  in  those  alterations  which  would  be  necessa- 
ry. A  criminal  condemned  to  imprisonment  in  France 
is  turned  in  amongst  a  number  of  other  persons,  is  fed 
during  the  period  of  his  detention,  and  comes  out  of  the 
prison  just  as  he  entered  it. 

We  soon  came  in  sight  of  Westpoint,  at  the  commence- 
ment of"  the  Highlands,"  and  the  most  beautiful  part  of 
the  river.  This  spot  was  selected  in  the  year  1802,  as 
the  site  of  the  military  college  of  the  United  States.  The 
buildings  connected  with  the  establishment  are  situated 
on  a  small  plain  elevated  about  160  feet  above  the  sur- 
face of  the  river.  The  venerable  ruins  of  Fort  Putnam 
are  conspicuously  perched  upon  an  eminence  440  feet 
higher ;  but  the  ascent  is  still  continued  behind  them. 
The  whole  of  the  ground  belongs  to  government,  the  im- 
mediate vicinity  of  the  college  being  within  the  jurisdic- 
tion of  the  courts  of  the  United  States. 

The  dress  and  appearance  of  the  cadets  is  extremely 
neat ;  consisting  of  a  slightly  braided  jacket,  and  trowsers 
of  grey  cloth :  their  number  is  about  two  hundred  and 


IN  AMERICA.  20  1 

sixty.  The  academic  staff  is  composed  of  thirty -three 
officers,  and  gentlemen  who  act  as  professors  and  assist- 
ant professors.  The  cadets  are  instructed  in  almost 
every  branch  of  science,  but  in  no  language,  excepting 
French.  They  are  publicly  examined  every  year,  in 
the  presence  of  fifteen  visitors,  who  are  invited  to  at- 
tend, and  have  an  allowance  made  them  for  their  tra- 
velling expenses.  Amongst  other  places,  I  visited  the 
drawing  academy,  and  another  apartment,  in  which 
were  several  cadets  studying  fortification.  When  there, 
I  could  not  avoid  remarking  that  on  one  of  the  tables,  by 
the  side  of  the  drawing  utensils,  lay  a  half  demolished 
roll  of  tobacco.  The  disgusting  habit  of  chewing  to- 
bacco is  common  in  every  part  of  America;  even  the 
men  in  the  upper  classes  are  not  entirely  free  from  it ; 
but  it  surely  might  be  discontinued  (by  express  prohi- 
bition, if  necessary)  by  the  officers  and  cadets  of  the 
most  gentlemanly  establishment  in  the  Union,  and 
against  which,  laughable  as  it  may  appear,  objections 
have  been  raised  on  account  of  the  aristocratical  ideas 
which  the  young  men  bring  with  them  into  society. 

The  annual  expenses  of  each  cadet  do  not  exceed 
three  hundred  and  fifty  dollars.  He  is  examined  at  the 
expiration  of  four  years :  if  he  does  not  pass,  he  is  al- 
lowed another  year  of  grace.  There  are  usually  on  the 
average  about  a  hundred  candidates  for  admission  on  the 
list,  and  about  thirty  are  annually  accepted:  a  prefer- 
ence being  given  to  the  sons  of  revolutionary  officers, 
or  of  those  who  served  in  the  last  war.  Out  of  the 
whole  number  admitted,  I  was  informed  that  more  than 
one  half  of  them  leave  the  college  from  incapacity,  dis- 
orderly behaviour,  or  other  reasons,  before  their  time 
has  expired ;  and  that  about  one  fourth  of  them  usually 
take  their  leave  within  a  year  after  the  commencement 
of  their  studies.  Every  cadet  must  have  attained  the 
age  of  fourteen  before  admittance,  and  is  originally  in- 
tended for  the  army  ;  but  in  the  event  of  his  not  get- 
ting a  commission,  the  education  he  has  received,  amidst 
the  present  and  universal  confusion  of  rail-roads  and 
water-powers,  will  ensure  him  three  dollars  a  day  for 
his  services  as  a  civil  engineer.  The  cadets  form  on 
parade  every  day  at  one  hour  before  sunset,  and  have  a 
very  st>ldier-like  appearance,  occasionally  practising  the 
guns  at  a  target  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river.  The 
band,  towards  the  maintenance  of  which  each  cadet  con- 


202  SIX  MONTHS 

tributes  twenty-five  cents  a  month,  is  said  to  be  the  best 
in  the  States.  If  a  young  man  does  not  distinguish 
himself,  he  will  probably  remain  in  the  ranks  of  the  ca- 
det corps  during  the  four  years  of  his  probation  ;  but  if 
he  display  more  than  ordinary  abilities,  he  may  become 
a  corporal  after  the  first,  and  a  sergeant  after  the  second 
year;  and  may  subsequently  get  his  commission  as  se- 
cond lieutenant  in  the  army. 

Kosciusko  served  in  the  American  ranks  during  the 
war  of  Independence.  His  cenotaph  is  a  very  conspi- 
cuous object  at  Westpoint ;  and  at  a  picturesque  spot 
which  he  is  said  to  have  frequented,  and  is  known  by 
the  name  of  Kosciusko's  Garden  :  a  small  fountain,  re- 
garded at  this  time  with  peculiar  reverence,  bubbles  up 
through  a  plain  marble  slab,  and  trickles  over  the  letters 
of  his  name,  as  if  it  wept  its  all  to  his  memory. 

Cannon  are  cast  at  the  foundry  on  the  east  side  of 
the  river,  nearly  opposite  to  Westpoint  On  that  side 
also,  a  mile  or  two  below,  is  the  house  which  was  occu- 
pied by  Arnold  when  he  was  carrying  on  his  traitorous 
correspondence  with  the  British  officers.  The  spot 
where  he  held  his  conference  with  Major  Andre,  is 
overshadowed  by  a  small  grove  of  trees,  easily  distin- 
guished by  their  superior  height.  I  understood,  at 
Westpoint,  that  General  La  Fayette,  during  his  visit  in 
1824,  had  said  he  was  dining  with  Arnold,  when  he  re- 
ceived from  Major  Andre  the  letter  which  informed 
him  of  his  capture,  and  that  Arnold  immediately  made 
some  excuse  for  leaving  the  table,  and  'escaped,  as  is 
well  known,  by  running  down  a  very  steep  bank,  and 
ordering  some  boatmen  to  row  him  to  the  British 
sloop  of  war  which  brought  Major  Andre,  and  was 
then  lying  in  the  river  awaiting  his  return. 

The  American  musket  carries  but  eighteen  balls  to 
the  pound.  The  charge  of  powder  is  also  proportionably 
less.  A  general  officer  who  served  in  the  last  war,  in- 
formed me  that  having  observed  the  shoulders  of  the 
British  prisoners,  he  frequently  found  them  black  for  a 
month  after  their  capture  ;  and  not  being  satisfied  with 
the  smallness  of  the  charge  of  powder  which  had  been 
already  diminished  by  an  order  from  the  American  head- 
quarters, he  himself,  then  a  colonel,  went  round  to  every 
man  in  his  regiment,  previously  to  an  engagement,  to 
see  that  it  was  still  further  reduced  according  to  his 
own  order.  The  men  were  thus  convinced  of  the  ne- 


IN  AMERICA.  203 

cessity  of  reserving  their  fire,  and  of  taking  a  steady 
aim,  so  that,  perhaps,  one  shot  in  ten  took  effect,  instead 
of  one  in  sixty  ;  the  number  usually  allowed  in  Euro- 
pean warfare.  He  also  informed  me,  that  during  the 
obscurity  of  the  night,  and  the  confusion  which  took 
place  at  the  battle  of  Lundy's  lane,  he  observed  a  regi- 
ment forming  on  his  flank,  and  being  unable  to  discern 
immediately  whether  they  were  British  or  Americans, 
he  jumped  upon  the  top  of  a  fence  for  a  better  view,  and 
immediately  became  a  mark  for  a  volley  of  British  mus- 
ketry, of  which  every  shot  passed  over  his  head.  This 
no  doubt  was  partly  caused  by  the  old  method  of  "  mak- 
ing ready ;"  in  consequence  of  which  the  musket  was 
frequently  discharged  before  it  was  brought  to  the 
shoulder,  from  the  perpendicular  position  in  which  it 
was  held.  The  British  troops  suffered  more  severely 
than  they  otherwise  would  have  done  on  account  of  the 
colour  of  their  uniforms,  the  least  portion  of  which  so 
easily  exposed  them  to  the  rifle  of  the  back-woodsman. 

Soon  after  quitting  Westpoint  we  passed  the  town  of 
Newburg,  leaving  the  Catskill  mountains  on  our  left.  I 
did  not  visit  the  hotel  at  the  top  of  them,  as  the  season 
was  too  far  advanced,  and  every  body  had  left  it.  The 
view  from  it  rs  said  to  be,  and  must  be,  magnificent. 
We  then  arrived  at  Albany,  which  has  been  for  thirty 
years  the  capital  of  the  state  of  New  York  ;  it  is  a  hand- 
some and  thriving  city,  containing  about  20,000  inha- 
bitants. _ 

Every  traveller  should  contrive  to  be  at  Albany  on  > 
Sunday  morning,  in  order  that  he  may  proceed  to  Sha- 
ker's town,  about  eight  miles  distant,  and-  attend  the 
public  worship  of  the  sect.  At  Lebanon,  in  the  same 
state,  there  is  a  larger  establishment,  but  it  is  more  out 
of  the  way.  Their  mode  of  worship  is  certainly  the 
most  extraordinary  that  is  adopted  in  any  Christian 
community.  About  fifty  men  and  fifty  women  were 
arranged  en  masse  with  their  faces  towards  each  other, 
and  with  an  intervening  space  of  about  ten  feet.  The 
service  commenced  by  an  elder  coming  forward  between 
them,  and  delivering  a  few  words  of  exhortation.  Seve- 
ral others  followed  his  example  at  intervals  during  the 
service ;  one,  more  eloquent  than  the  rest,  who  was  des- 
canting on  the  proper  government  of  the  passions  and 
the  abuse  of  talent,  thought  fit  to  illustrate  his  argument 
by  a  quotation  from  Gay's  fable  of  "  The  Grecian  youth 


204  SIX    MONTHS 

of  talents  rare."  Hymns  were  then  sung  by  them  in 
their  places,  each  of  them  shaking  the  whole  time. 
They  then  performed  a  regular  dance,  holding  hands, 
advancing  and  retiring,  to  a  most  uproarious  tune,  sung 
by  a  few  of  them  formed  in  a  small  circle,  who  gave  the 
words  and  the  tune  to  the  others  as  they  afterwards 
paraded  in  pairs  around  the  room,  singing  very  loudly 
the  whole  time — hopping  heavily,  first  on  one  foot,  then 
on  the  other — flapping  their  hands  the  whole  time  before 
them,  with  their  elbows  stuck  into  their  sides,  and  looking 
for  all  the  world  like  so  many  penguins  in  procession. 
It  was  not  till  the  end  of  the  service  that  they  all  fairly 
fell  on  their  knees,  and  sung  a  hymn,  as  if  they  were 
asking  pardon  for  their  vagaries. 

I  really  think  I  had  never  seen  such  a  curious  collec- 
tion of  heads  and  features  :  the  chin  and  lower  part  of 
the  face  were  generally  very  small,  giving  to  some  an 
appearance  that  was  perfectly  idiotic,  whilst  others  dis- 
played a  more  subdued  modification  of  that  wildness  of 
gaze  which  might  have  distinguished  the  fanatic  com- 
panions of  Balfour  o'  Burley  :  but  there  was  scarcely 
one  among  them,  either  male  or  female,  whose  features 
were  not  remarkable  on  one  account  or  other. 

From  Albany  I  proceeded  to  Schenectady,  in  the  rail- 
road carriage,  which  whirled  me  forward  with  a  rapidity 
very  little  inferior  to  that  with  which  I  had  been  carried 
between  Liverpool  and  Manchester,  but  by  no  means  so 
silently  or  so  smoothly,  as  the  rattling  was  very  loud. 
Thence  I  went  to  Utica,  a  town  that  at  present  contains 
10,000  inhabitants,  but  intends  at  some  future  period  to 
be  the  capital  of  the  state  of  New  York.  Its  pretensions 
are  founded  on  its  present  prosperity,  arising  from  the 
Erie  canal,  which  passes  through  it  in  its  way  from 
Albany  to  Lake  Erie,  its  central  situation,  and  the  gra- 
dual westward  movement  of  the  surplus  population  of 
the  more  eastern  cities. 

From  Utica  I  visited  the  Trenton  Falls,  fifteen  miles 
distant.  I  was  very  much  disappointed :  there  was  not 
much  water  in  them,  and  they  appeared  more  like  artifi- 
cial cascades  than  a  natural  cataract.  The  trout  fishing 
in  the  West  Canada  creek,  on  which  they  are  situated, 
is,  I  conceive,  the  best  recommendation  for  a  visit  to  the 
Trenton  Falls.  Possibly  Niagara  had  spoiled  me  for 
every  water-fall.  It  is,  I  think,  the  author  of  the 
"  Diary  of  an  Invalid,"  who  remarks  that  having  seen 


IN    AMERICA.  205 

St  Peter's,  he  should  be  contented  with  his  parish  church 
ever  afterwards.  I  thence  proceeded  to  Saratoga,  the  Chel- 
tenham of  America  :  but  the  company  which  throng  to 
it  from  all  parts  of  the  Union,  being  its  only  attraction, 
and  the  season  being  over,  I  passed  through  it  without 
stopping  there  more  than  an  hour.  The  vicinity  of  Balls- 
ton  Springs,  which  are  near  it,  are  much  prettier.  The 
waters  of  both  are  saline  and  chalybeate  at  the  same 
time.  The  guide  books  are  so  filled  with  accounts  of  the 
marches,  counter-marches,  successes,  distresses,  and  final 
surrender  of  General  Burgoyne,  that  I  make  no  apology 
for  merely  remarking,  that  he  surrendered  to  the  Ameri- 
can General  Gates  at  Schuylersville  in  the  county  of 
Saratoga,  on  the  17th  of  October,  1777.  From  Saratoga, 
I  proceeded  to  Lake  George,  passing  by  Glen's  Falls,  so 
admirably  described  in  Mr.  Cooper's  novel  of  the  Last 
of  the  Mohicans.  Unfortunately  for  me  the  steam-boat 
on  the  lake  was  laid  up  in  ordinary,  and  I  was  obliged 
to  content  myself  with  a  ride  for  a  few  miles  along  the 
banks.  As  far  as  I  could  judge,  I  thought  the  scenery 
equal  to  that  of  the  finest  of  British  lakes,  generally, 
with  the  exception  of  Loch-Lomond.  It  is  thirty-six 
miles  long ;  but  it  has  no  where  the  majestic  breadth  of 
the  famed  Scottish  lake.  Its  mountains  are  not  so  lofty 
as  Ben  Lomond,  and  it  has  not  the  weeping  birch  of  the 
highlands  of  Scotland,  or  the  arbutus  of  the  lake  of 
KUlarney  ;  but  it  can  boast  of  an  unrivalled  clearness  of 
water,  a  most  delicious  perfume  from  the  gum  cistus, 
(vulgo,  sweet  fern)  which  grows  abundantly  on  its  mar- 
gin ;  and  the  autumnal  foliage  reflected  on  its  sur- 
face is  certainly  far  more  beautiful  and  brilliant  than  any 
thing  of  the  kind  that  Great  Britain  can  display.  Culti- 
vation was  to  be  seen  in  many  parts ;  but  there  were  no 
splendid  country  seats,  and  the  majestic  beauty  of  this 
lovely  lake  must  be  contented  to  remain  destitute  of 
those  unrivalled  ornaments,  so  long  as  democracy  holds 
sway  over  the  mountains  that  surround  it. 

At  the  head  of  the  lake  stands  the  village  of  Caldwell, 
and  near  it  are  the  ruins  of  Fort  George  and  Fort  Wil- 
liam. It  would  far  exceed  the  limits  of  this  work,  were 
I  to  take  notice  of  the  numerous  battles  that  have  been 
fought  during  the  last  eighty  years  in  the  vicinity  of 
Lake  George  ;  for  an  account  of  the  massacre  that  took 
place  after  the  surrender  of  Fort  William-Henry,  by 
Major  Monroe,  to  the  French  troops  under  the  command 
18 


206  SIX  MONTHS 

of  the  Marquis  of  Montcalm  in  1757,  I  will  again  with 
pleasure  refer  you  to  the  "  Last  of  the  Mohicans." 

I  should  mention  that  there  is  excellent  bass  fishing 
in  the  lake,  and  that  all  necessary  information,  &c.  may 
be  obtained  at  the  lake  tavern  at  Caldwell.  The  bass  is 
taken  with  a  spinning  minnow,  and  when  hooked  affords 
for  a  short  time,  even  more  sport  than  a  salmon  ;  but  is 
much  sooner  exhausted. 

Sandy  Hill  was  my  next  destination.  In  my  way,  I 
passed  over  the  ground  where  General  Burgoyne  sur- 
rendered, and  in  a  few  hours  again  entered  a  steam-boat, 
at  Albany,  with  the  intention  of  returning,  for  the  last 
time,  to  New  York. 

Before  I  went  to  America,  I  had  no  idea  in  how  short 
a  time  a  meal  could  be  despatched  ;  but  to  see  "  bolting" 
in  perfection,  it  is  necessary  to  go  on  board  an  Albany 
steam-boat.  The  cabin  is  cleared  as  much  as  possible, 
the  breakfast  is  laid,  and  the  free  negro  stewards  are 
placed  as  guards  at  the  top  of  the  stair-case,  to  prevent 
any  gentleman  from  walking  in  before  the  bell  rings. 
As  the  hour  draws  near,  conversation  is  gradually  sus- 
pended, and  the  company  look  as  if  they  were  all  think- 
ing of  the  same  subject.  Groups  of  lank  thin-jawed 
personages  may  be  seen  "  progressing"  towards  the  door, 
and  "  locating"  themselves  around  it,  in  expectation  of 
the  approaching  rush,  listening  to  the  repeated  assu- 
rances of  the  black  stewards  within,  that  no  gentleman 
can  by  any  possibility  be  admitted  before  the  time.  At 
length  the  bell  rings,  and  the  negro  guards  escape  as 
they  can ;  if  they  are  not  brisk  in  their  motions,  they 
stand  a  chance  of  being  sent  headlong  down  stairs,  or 
jammed  in  between  the  wall  and  the  open  doors.  In 
less  than  a  quarter  of  a  minute,  150  or  200  persons  have 
seated  themselves  at  table,  and  an  excellent  breakfast  ol 
tea,  coffee,  eggs,  beefsteaks,  hot  rolls,  corn  cakes,  salted 
mackerel,  mush,  molasses,  &c.  is  demolished  in  an  in- 
credibly short  space  of  time.  The  crowd  then  slowly 
re-ascends  the  staircase — and  three-fourths  of  them  are 
quite  surprised  that  they  should  be  afflicted  with  dys- 
pepsia !  The  music  which  usually  accompanied  the 
feasts  of  the  ancients,  will  never  be  revived  by  the  Ame- 
ricans. 


Whilst  I  remained  at   New  York,  I  employed  my 
time  in  visiting  the  dock-yard,  the  race-ground  on  Long 


IN     AMERICA.  207 

Island,  and  other  places  which  I  had  left  unseen.  The 
race-ground  is  inclosed  with  a  high  paling,  and  although 
well  kept,  is  not  on  so  large  a  scale  as  might  be  expect- 
ed. 

The  Americans  believed  that  their  horse,  Eclipse,  was  \ 
faster  than  his  celebrated  English  ancestor,  till  a  paper 
appeared  in  their  Sporting  Magazine,  proving  that  had 
they  run  together,  their  horse,  which  is  undoubtedly  a 
very  good  one,  particularly  up  hill,  would  have  been 
thoroughly  beaten.  They  have  a  mare,  named,  I  be- 
lieve, Arietta,  which  is  said  to  be  exceedingly  fast  for  a 
mile,  and  is  coming  to  England,  to  try  her  speed  at 
Newmarket. 

The  Americans  boast  that  they  are  able  to  raise 
an  army  of  cavalry  at  a  moment's  notice  ;  and  they 
refer  you  to  the  backwoods,  and  tell  you  that  a  boy  can 
ride  almost  as  soon  as  he  can  walk.  This  is  true  enough 
of  their  riding  to  plough,  or  to  church,  or  along  the 
road  ;  but  I  do  not  remember  to  have  seen  a  horse  take 
a  leap  in  the  United  States  but  once, — and  he  had  no 
rider  on  his  back.  It  is  very  rarely  that  an  American  is 
seen  with  a  good  seat  on  horseback.  I  should  say, 
generally,  that  the  Americans  were  bad  riders,  excepting 
the  New  Yorkers, — and  they  are  Americans.  I  think 
they  are  the  worst  I  ever  saw.  They  have  neither  a 
military  seat,  nor  a  fox-hunting  seat,  nor  a  Turkish 
seat,  nor  even  what  Geoffrey  Gambado  would  term 
"  the  mistaken  motion ;"  but  they  ride  up  and  down 
the  Broadway  with  the  toe  almost  invariably  very  much 
below  the  heel ;  and  the  back  and  shoulders,  like  the 
"  genteel  and  agreeable"  of  the  same  author,  of  course 
inclined  forward  :  at  the  same  time  it  must  be  confessed, 
that  as  they  have  neither  cavalry  nor  fox-hunting,  it  is 
not  surprising  that  they  cannot  ride. 

I  witnessed  an  extraordinary  exhibition,  purporting 
to  be  a  burlesque  upon  the  militia  system,  and  got  up 
with  no  inconsiderable  share  of  humour.  A  person  on 
horseback,  masked,  in  the  uniform  of  Napoleon,  wearing 
a.  small  figure  of  him  on  either  shoulder,  and  carrying 
an  enormous  tin  sword,  headed  a  band  of  ragamuffins, 
habited  as  their  wit  and  ingenuity  dictated  to  them. 
Pasteboard,  pumpkins,  spits,  and  hay-bands,  with  a  hun- 
dred other  things  of  the  same  kind,  being  put  in  requisi- 
tion to  aid  the  spirit  of  buffoonery,  and  assist  in  ridicul- 
ing the  militia.  The  only  motto  among  the  many  that 


208  SIX    MONTHS 

was  good  and  pointed,  was  "  soldiers  in  peace,  citizens 
in  war."  But  the  whole  scene,  although  acted  on  a  less 
serious  occasion,  was  worthy  the  days  of  Anacharsis 
Klootz. 

I  cannot  forbear  to  relate  an  instance  of  that  mock 
modesty  of  which  the  Americans  are  sometimes  accused. 
I  was  at  a  ball,  and  was  guilty  of  joining  in  a  quadrille. 
When  the  time  for  the  "  dos  a  dos"  arrived,  I  advanced 
to  perform  that  part  of  the  figure  in  the  same  manner  as 
I  should  have  done  at  a  baS  in  England;  but  I  found 
that  the  lady,  who  was  dancing  opposite  to  me,  receded 
instead  of  coming  forward,  and  my  movement  had  at- 
tracted considerable  attention.  I  felt  that  I  had  com- 
mitted some  error,  and  my  partner,  who  had  travelled 
a  great  deal  in  Europe  and  had  often  danced  quadrilles 
in  France  and  England,  kindly  hinted  to  me,  with  a 
slight  archness  of  smile,  that  I  had  made  a  mistake. — 
"  We  do  not  dance  the  dos  a  dos  here  ;  we  have  left  off 
that  part  of  the  figure  !" 

Two  circumstances  contributed  to  render  my  voy- 
age home  agreeable  :  one  was,  that  I  sailed  in  the  splen- 
did new  ship  the  "  North  America ;"  the  other,  that  she 
was  commanded  by  Captain  Macy.  As  the  steam-boat 
slowly  towed  us  from  the  wharf,  I  felt  gratified  and 
grateful  for  the  kindness  I  had  met  with  in  America ; 
and  I  unhesitatingly  affirm,  that  if  an  Englishman  be 
treated  otherwise  it  must  be  his  own  fault.  I  looked  at 
the  retiring  city  :  I  thought  the  houses  were  not  so  very 
red,  after  all ;  and  I  tried  to  persuade  myself  that  the 
bay  of  New  York  was  as  beautiful  as  the  bay  of  Naples : 
but  I  found  that  I  could  not  show  my  gratitnde  at  the  ex- 
pense of  what  appeared  to  me  to  be  the  truth;  namely, 
that  it  is  and  must  ever  remain  very  far  inferior.  Partiality 
is  apt  to  elicit  some  very  contrary  opinions.  The  New 
Yorkers  think  their  bay  equal  in  beauty  to  the  bay  of 
Naples  :  when  the  Dutch  had  possession  of  the  country, 
they  called  it  the  New  Netherlands.  But  these  are 
trifles,  and  as  such  I  hope  they  are  pardonable. 

I  advise  you  to  go  to  America  :  at  this  period  there  is 
no  country  equally  interesting,  nor  one  so  likely  to  re- 
main so,  till  it  falls  to  pieces,  probably  within  less  than 
half  a  century,  by  its  own  weight  If  you  are  an  ultra- 
tory  you  will,  perhaps,  receive  a  lesson  that  may  reduce 
you  to  reason ;  if  you  are  a  radical,  and  in  your  senses, 
as  an  Englishman  and  a  gentleman,  you  are  certain  of 


IN    AMERICA.  209 

changing  your  opinions  before  you  return ;  and  you 
may  prepare  yourself  accordingly.  You  will  be  grati- 
fied by  visiting  a  land,  that  come  what  will,  must  ever 
remain  a  land  of  liberty,  which  the  Saxon  blood  alone  is 
capable  of  enjoying.  So  little,  it  may  be  remarked,  do 
the  French  understand  the  term,  that  it  is  only  since  the 
last  revolution  that  they  have  acquired  the  u  droit  de 
Pinitiatif,"  or  the  right  by  which  any  member  of  the 
chamber  of  deputies  can  by  himself  bring  in  a  bill  or 
"  projet  de  loi,"  whenever  he  pleases;  a  right  which  the 
members  of  the  house  of  commons  in  England  may  be 
said  to  have  enjoyed  for  two  centuries.  Previously  to 
the  late  changes  in  France,  it  was  necessary  that  a  num- 
ber of  members  who  wished  to  introduce  any  measure 
into  the  chamber,  should  petition  the  king  for  leave  to 
do  so ;  otherwise,  as  is  well  known,  it  was  brought  for- 
ward by  the  minister  alone.  You  will  be  gratified  by 
seeing  so  much  of  what  may  be  termed  the  aristocracy 
of  nature  in  the  primaeval  forests,  the  vast  lakes  and 
majestic  rivers  of  North  America ;  and  still  more  so  by 
having  visited  a  land  where  man  is  supposed  to  be  more 
his  own  master  than  in  any  other  civilized  part  of  the 
world,  and  where  his  energy  meets  with  co-operation  in 
the  natural  resources  of  the  country,  and  commands  suc- 
cess at  the  hands  of  his  fellow  men.  You  will  then  be 
able  to  form  an  opinion  whether  the  state  of  society  be 
more  or  less  enviable  than  that  to  which  you  have  been 
accustomed;  whether  the  fine  arts  are  more  likely  to 
flourish ;  whether  men  in  their  public  or  private 
characters  as  husbands,  as  fathers,  as  brothers,  as 
gentlemen,  are  better,  more  honest,  or  more  amiable 
than  among  yourselves;  or  whether  the  government 
under  which  they  live  is  more  calculated  for  the  encou- 
ragement of  true  religion,  the  shelter  of  virtue,  the  en- 
joyment of  life  and  liberty ;  or,  if  fair  allowance  be 
made  for  the  advantages  incidental  to  a  new  country, 
whether  it  is  better  adapted  for  the  advancement  of  na- 
tional prosperity,  than  the  institutions  of  your  native 
land. — Go  to  America,  canvass  the  pretensions  of  the 
Americans,  and  then  judge  for  yourself. 


THE    END. 


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